You don't need a TBC in 2023

[Marshalleq]

Dos this include the case where a single line or two have the horizontal jitters? Does an external TBC fix that (assuming a perfect TBC)?

[dellsam34]

There are some capture devices/format converters that are equipped with both line and frame timing, I've demonstrated one of those devices here. You can skip to post #13 if you don't like the drama.

[Marshalleq]

So my remote finally turned up. It's a JVC LP20667-002. My player is a JVC HR-S9850. The play and stop buttons go, but the power and menu buttons do not. It seems to operate VCR, TV and Cable / SAT, and even though I can see clearly on its screen that VCR is selected, the menu buttons do not go. Is there some trick to this? I also got the replacement pinch roller in the same bag, it's not new but at least it doesn't have any cracks in it. I would have thought, being this shop is meant to service VCR's and this is their whole advantage over buying from Ebay, they would have a supply of new pinch rollers from somewhere, it's a fundamental thing from what I've learnt. So far, my next purchase will probably be from eBay. I think the chances of getting something good there are probably higher - though their shipping program kills the price mostly. Considering the price I paid from VCRshop it'll probably still be cheaper - and faster to arrive also. I note that VCR shop also sell on there. I sort of get the impression VCR shop just buy all their kit on ebay, do nothing but check that it's going, then mark it up. Perhaps I'm being too harsh?

Anyway, does anyone know if:
1: There's a trick to getting the menu button working for the JVC player?
2: What is the proper remote I could order or some other remote that would make the menu button work
3: Or maybe this remote is faulty?

Thanks.

Hmmm, looking in the manual it looks like I have to set the remote to a control code or something.

OK so I can set A or B codes. I tried both. Confirmed the VCR changed. But still no menu button. I also confirmed in the manual visually that the remote looks identical. This leads me to believe the remote is faulty. But most of the other buttons work.

OK I see what's happening, the menu button still doesn't work. But pressing the Prog button brings up the menu because the clock isn't set. The only annoyance is I can't get out of the menu because the menu key is the back button. Give it 5-10 seconds and it resets itself. So it's workable, just annoying.

So it's clearly faulty. Here I go again - another message to the supplier. I took the remote apart - I could get the menu key to press with it apart very occasionally, but when it's back together it doesn't work. Definitely a contact issue with the button and the board contacts. My uncle told me years ago a green rubber is good to clean those contacts, I don't have one though. Maybe a normal rubber would be good.

[oln]

No there isn't any trick to it as long as the remote and the VCR is set to the same code and it's set to VCR pressing menu should work. Remotes are mostly cross-compatible between JVC VCRs too other than the models that weren't made by JVC and a few of the late combo decks so if that one isn't working correctly a universal one with JVC codes or another JVC VCR remote from the 90s or very early 2000s should be usable too as long as it's new enough to have a menu button.

[Marshalleq]

Thanks, in my previous impatience I got a different JVC remote to see if it would work - it didn't except for play buttons, but I didn't know about the a and b menus then - might give that a go. It'd definitely a faulty button - updated in my message above.

Just tried it - it feels more responsive actually - but alas menu button is only for the TV on that one. I'll keep hunting, but really the supplier should send me a functional remote.

[Bartoloni]

That said, it looks to me like there are only a few settings that you need to make for a PAL unit:

Display> Noise Reduction Off

In the menus: Comb Filter On, TV Aspect 4:3, Progressive Off, TV System PAL, AV1 Output > S-Video (for use with a Scart adapter).

i have an S10 s15 and S20 and they are changing the brightness of orginal signal from VCR (very white on white sposts)
i stopped using them..

but... WHAT MEAN by: AV1 Output > S-Video (for use with a Scart adapter)

take the S-Video output and "convert" to a scart?
or use a SCART to S-VIDEO on AV1?

very thank you for any explanation.

[The_Doman]

but... WHAT MEAN by: AV1 Output > S-Video (for use with a Scart adapter)

take the S-Video output and "convert" to a scart?
or use a SCART to S-VIDEO on AV1?

It means configuring the AV1 SCART output of the recorders for S-Video output and using a SCART to S-Video cable or SCART adapter.
SCART to S-Video adapters/cables only route the signal pins to the different connectors/pins, they do not convert the video signal.
The European recorders can bet set to input/output RGB, Composite or S-Video over the SCART connectors.
But not all at the same time.

Google: SCART pinout S-Video

[Alwyn]

or use a SCART to S-VIDEO on AV1?

Yes. Functions button>To Others>Setup>"Connection", select AV1 Output to S-Video.


[Attachment 86937 - Click to enlarge]

Then, use a SCART plug on AV1 and take the S-Video from the SCART plug.

i have an S10 s15 and S20 and they are changing the brightness of orginal signal from VCR (very white on white sposts)
i stopped using them.

Try lowering the contrast to get within legal levels.

[Sharc]

...i have an S10 s15 and S20 and they are changing the brightness of orginal signal from VCR (very white on white sposts)
i stopped using them.

Try lowering the contrast to get within legal levels.

See the earlier discussion here. He may need to attenuate the signal before it enters the ES10/ES15.
https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/414910-Panasonic-DMR-E55H-%28pal%29-and-E85H-%28pa...-is-too-bright

Note that even if he is within legal YUV range he may still have out-of-gamut RGB which get clipped upon YUV->RGB conversion , possibly resulting in slight color shifts (for critical eyes).

[Alwyn]

He may need to attenuate the signal before it enters the ES10/ES15.

I don't bother with that anymore. I just drop the levels a tad.

Note that even if he is within legal YUV range he may still have out-of-gamut RGB

How do can we ascertain that prior to capture?

[jagabo]

Note that even if he is within legal YUV range he may still have out-of-gamut RGB

How do can we ascertain that prior to capture?

See this thread: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/360935-Capturing-Correct-Chroma-and-Hue-Levels-From-VHS/

[Alwyn]

It would appear the answer is: you can't. It can only be ascertained by analysing a captured file.

[jagabo]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

[Sharc]

It would appear the answer is: you can't. It can only be ascertained by analysing a captured file.

Yes, one has to analyze the captured file, and then one often will accept a compromise, because full legalization can be tedious, or the result may even look "less pleasant" (like washed out in the extreme case).

[Sharc]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

Ooops yes, that is an option, at least for adjusting the YUV values to be within their legal YUV range.
(and maybe convert to RGB on the fly with a given matrix to see if something gets clipped?)

[jagabo]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

Ooops yes, that is an option, at least for adjusting the YUV values to be within their legal YUV range.
(and maybe convert to RGB on the fly with a given matrix to see if something gets clipped?)

That's what the HighlightBadRGB() function does in the thread I linked to. It converts YUV to RGB then back and highlights the differences. It's not perfect but it's fast and a good approximation.

[Sharc]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

Ooops yes, that is an option, at least for adjusting the YUV values to be within their legal YUV range.
(and maybe convert to RGB on the fly with a given matrix to see if something gets clipped?)

That's what the HighlightBadRGB() function does in the thread I linked to. It converts YUV to RGB then back and highlights the differences. It's not perfect but it's fast and a good approximation.

I can run the capture graph and make proc amp adjustments on the fly, but for some reason I cannot really capture at the same time. So it goes in 2 steps: Step 1 for making the adjustments (based on a section of the video), step 2 doing the capturing using the settings found in step 1. Maybe the restriction is due to my i5 system. Anyway, I can live with it.

[Alwyn]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

Thanks. I did try, some time ago under your guidance, to do live monitoring with MPC (for basic levels) but had no luck; it seemed to depend on the digitiser. One worked, the others didn't and now I can't get any to work.

I'll just run a few captures through the Histogram script to see how the chroma levels are.

[Sharc]

No, you can monitor a live feed with a capture graph and DirectShowSource().

Thanks. I did try, some time ago under your guidance, to do live monitoring with MPC (for basic levels) but had no luck; it seemed to depend on the digitiser. One worked, the others didn't and now I can't get any to work.

Works here without problems for the Live-2 and for the GV USB2, for the YUV histogram and for the waveform monitor. I just cant't capture simultaneously. You may have to revisit your DS filter graph and script.