No usb ports working is motherboar dead

[Humbug]

Hi there
Thought i would do a clean up inside my pc yesterday and think i managed to damage something.
I have a fan which sits on top of the processor chip which i removed for cleaning due to the amount of dust within pc.
My old pc had something similar but just had 4 screws you tookout (much easier) than this one!
This fan had 4 plastic screw type things that when you push down they go thru 4 small holes within motherboard.
Problem was getting it out was no problem but getting to push these plastic screw back things in after was a nightmare!
I think i have either cracked the motherboard somewhere(but can't see no signs of damage)whilst pushing down on the screws or i think i may have scrarched the circuit board whilst pushing with a small screw driver!

Is it possible to do this?

Once i put pc all back together it boots up fine all fans still working but keyboard(old style connection not usb),and all 6 usb ports now not working!

Have tried usb mouse and other devices in laptop and all works fine even keyboard!

Only thing that seems to possibly work is ethernet cable as green led light comes on when you put it into the port.

Also have no picture on screen just black!

I have seperate video card in motherboard slot and think it could be ok as if i take out DVI cable it comes up on my monitor as DVI cable unplugged please check...

So basically can't see nothing on screen to see what Windows says etc and no response from anything plugged into any motherboard slots usb etc.

2 usb's are on front of pc and are not working either.

Would these be connected to motherboard also?

Sorry for all the questions but don't know what to do next!

Many thanks for all advice given.

[lordsmurf]

Wire or no? If wired, did the wire(s) fall out?
That happened to me once.

[Bjs]

Recheck all cables.

Front usb are attached via cable ... rear are physically connected to the board or via adapter cable.

You can only scratch the board if the screw driver actually made contact with the main board ... and yes those plastic clip down screw types can be problematic to re-connect ... the board should be supported to prevent flexing while they are inserted as it takes pressure to get them to click and lock.

Don't bother about what windows has to say ... if you have checked all connections and cannot enter bios then you have bigger problems ... most likely it needs replacing.

Where fans, power check led and optical drive (opens/closes) but nothing else appears to work it may suggest an issue with the psu ... confirm with a replacement working unit for retest before considering motherboard replacement.

[fjmr]

It looks like a memory trouble.

Try to take the memories out and scratch them softly on the contatcs with a pencil rubber.

[redwudz]

You didn't seem to mention motherboard beeps. I assume the PC has a beep speaker? If the MB is alive and has power, you should get beeps. It's fairly hard to crack a motherboard, but some of the components near the CPU could have been damaged.

I hate those push pin mounted CPU coolers. From your description, it sounds like you removed the whole cooler and not just the fan. But I guess some fans may be mounted to the MB and not the cooler itself. If you removed the whole cooler, you would have to replace the thermal compound and get a tight fit between the CPU and the cooler. If not, most MBs will shut down the PC in a few seconds to save the CPU.

The USB ports dying is not a good sign. It may be a failed power supply as mentioned. USB uses 5VDC off the PS. Fans use 12VDC, so they may still run, along with the drives. With a PS, the easist way to test is with another known good PS. Most PS testers on the market don't put enough load on the PS to really test it, they just detect voltages on the PS leads.

Having the Ethernet indicator lights on doesn't mean much, they're usually on also when the PCs are off.

But I would check for the beep codes and they may give you some ideas of the problem unless the MB or CPU or PS is dead. The regular short beep is a result of a simple self test of the MB, CPU, RAM and video card.

[Moontrash]

i dont think your MB is gna juist die on you. 4 or 5 months ago my 5 year old pc died. BIOS kicked in, Hard Drive wouldn't take...just kept rebootin but within the first few months of buildin that thing in 2005, 2 of the usb ports stopped working. I've had quite a few pc's with dead usb ports that lasted a while. LOL that scenario with dead usb ports is normal with me

[mL999]

i) ease all push-fit connections (including the CPU and
epecially the memory ) out a little and in again to make sure that they are correctly seated .
ii) consider installing a separate USB outlet card if you have
an expansion slot available and if you can borrow card to try.
iii) use the internet to find a new motherboard which will accept
your present CPU and memory (and graphics board). be very careful to check the
socket specifications .
iv) consider the economics and your purpose . If you want a
general purpose machine for the web and for office-type work old designs are
cheap and satisfactory . If you want to process video material or to play fast games
it is usually best to spend on an up-to-date design if the board is older than about
18 months .
v) next time use a vacuum cleaner (carefully) and do not
dismantle or touch the board .
vi) there is no point in trying to diagnose the fault throughly if you cannot
mend it .
good luck from mike

[fjmr]

It looks like a memory trouble.

Try to take the memories out and scratch them softly on the contatcs with a pencil rubber.

Also have no picture on screen just black!

So basically can't see nothing on screen to see what Windows says etc and no response from anything plugged into any motherboard slots usb etc.


Wrote HUMBUG!!!

WHY I SUGGEST THAT?

SIMPLE BECAUSE SOMETIMES POLLUTION OXIDATE THE CONTACTS OR EVEN CLIMATE DO THAT ALSO!!!

SO CLEAN IT WITHOUT DESTROYING!!

THAT IS THE WAY!! GOOD LUCK!

[lowellriggsiam]

You might try to set the bios back to the default settings and see if that turns then on, you might even explore in the bios to see if they have been disbaled.

[Humbug]

Gonna try some of your suggestions and report back shortly.
Thanks for all advice so far.
Cheers

[Humbug]

It looks like a memory trouble.

1)Try to take the memories out and scratch them softly on the contatcs with a pencil rubber.

Didn't help me.

2)Checked all connections all intact.

3)I think i may have scratched the motherboard surface as i can see about 1cm line.

4) Could it be the psu and not motherboard.

5) Why don't i get windows booting up on screen on start up.
wouldn't this point to motherboard problem.

6)Have ordered exact replacement motherboard.
Do i just take out old and put in new or is it more difficult.

7)Regarding paste.
What do i need to buy and how do i use it .

8) No beep sounds heard at all on start up.

Once again thanks for all your friendly advice,it is much appreciated!

Have added pics showing scratch etc just along from where it says heatsink on pic 1

[redwudz]

Thanks for the pictures, that helps quite a bit. That scratch may have been fatal for the motherboard. It's hard to tell from the pics, but if any of the circuit board traces are cut, it's done for. No MB beeps are a very bad sign.

I did the same thing a few years ago trying to pry down the clip of a AMD cooler. Brand new MB, destroyed. I scratched the area by the RAM.

On the top of your CPU, you can see the remains of your thermal compound. You cannot reuse it. You need to clean off the old compound on the CPU and cooler with something like 99% isopropyl alcohol (Rubbing alcohol) and apply a new layer of compound, usually about equivalent to the thickness of about two or three pages of magazine paper. Here's one guide: http://www.techpowerup.com/printarticle.php?id=134

If you've damaged those plastic push pins, which I imagine you have, they need to be replaced or the cooler needs to be replaced. That appears to be a stock cooler, so easy enough.

The small 'peg' at the bottom of the push pin expands the pin and holds the cooler to the motherboard. That has to be retracted for the pin to go through the MB mount hole. And often the pin has to be squeezed a bit before it will go through. The pins should be very easy to insert in the MB holes. But lots of times they get easily damaged and need to be replaced or very carefully reused. I take the MB out of the case to do this. Some info on push pin usage: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2047683





I would probably just get a new MB cooler. There are many that will work with that MB. You might want to study how those pins work. They have a small arrow on the top to show locking position and need to be unlocked and the peg retracted before inserting or removing and relocked afterwards. If you have a computer repair shop around, you might get a new stock cooler for free. Many experienced builders don't use the stock cooler, so they have them laying around unused. A new cooler will usually have the thermal compound already applied.

Replacing a MB isn't that hard as all the connectors are easy to tell apart, but you might label any similar ones and take a few pictures before taking it apart. I put the cooler on with the MB out of the case so I can check the pins or cooler attachment.

Good luck.

[Humbug]

Could you send us a link to a new MB cooler same one or diffeerent that i could buy or is it poss to buy spare pegs?
Would this one work for me?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=47982

Thanks

[mL999]

I am not familiar with intel coolers but if the fixing pins are not damaged they should be re-useable . Redwudz advice is good . Make sure that there is headroom in the case for any cooler you choose . You could find the edge of a dvd drive in the way .
Heat sink compound is a silicone grease containing a good heat conductor . You cannot in practice get absolutely perfect contact between the surfaces of the CPU and the cooler so you use the compound to conduct the heat from the one to the other between them . As thin a layer as possible but above all ensure that there are no bare patches (wriggle the cooler to spread the compound ). I do not think that any particular brand is better than any other . I have run trouble free without compound but only by accident when I forgot it . Some compounds seem to harden in use so do clean old compound off and apply fresh .
Installing a new board and transferring components onto it is not difficult . Work slowly and deliberately .
In particular :-
First make a big clear diagram of the connections and jumpers to the old board loudspeaker all case connectors to switches indicators and socketsand so on .
Use cooking foil for loosely wrapping things that may be sensitive to static electricity damage as you remove them and put them safely aside .
A wrist strap and earthing wire is usually recommended to avoid static electricity damage as you work but I just keep touching the metal of the system case .
Check everything particularly the BIOS re-set jumper .
Work slowly and think each step out in turn .
best wishes from mike

[Humbug]

Problem is 1 of the pins is damaged and i don't think it will hold down properly.
Anyone know of one i can use?
Thanks

[Humbug]

Thanks for the pictures, that helps quite a bit. That scratch may have been fatal for the motherboard. It's hard to tell from the pics, but if any of the circuit board traces are cut, it's done for. No MB beeps are a very bad sign.

I did the same thing a few years ago trying to pry down the clip of a AMD cooler. Brand new MB, destroyed. I scratched the area by the RAM.

On the top of your CPU, you can see the remains of your thermal compound. You cannot reuse it. You need to clean off the old compound on the CPU and cooler with something like 99% isopropyl alcohol (Rubbing alcohol) and apply a new layer of compound, usually about equivalent to the thickness of about two or three pages of magazine paper. Here's one guide: http://www.techpowerup.com/printarticle.php?id=134

If you've damaged those plastic push pins, which I imagine you have, they need to be replaced or the cooler needs to be replaced. That appears to be a stock cooler, so easy enough.

The small 'peg' at the bottom of the push pin expands the pin and holds the cooler to the motherboard. That has to be retracted for the pin to go through the MB mount hole. And often the pin has to be squeezed a bit before it will go through. The pins should be very easy to insert in the MB holes. But lots of times they get easily damaged and need to be replaced or very carefully reused. I take the MB out of the case to do this. Some info on push pin usage: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2047683




[Attachment 4777 - Click to enlarge]

I would probably just get a new MB cooler. There are many that will work with that MB. You might want to study how those pins work. They have a small arrow on the top to show locking position and need to be unlocked and the peg retracted before inserting or removing and relocked afterwards. If you have a computer repair shop around, you might get a new stock cooler for free. Many experienced builders don't use the stock cooler, so they have them laying around unused. A new cooler will usually have the thermal compound already applied.

Replacing a MB isn't that hard as all the connectors are easy to tell apart, but you might label any similar ones and take a few pictures before taking it apart. I put the cooler on with the MB out of the case so I can check the pins or cooler attachment.

Good luck.

Could you recommend a cooler for my motherboard?
Is it possible to use one which doesn't have these plastic pegs?
Thanks

[usually_quiet]

Could you recommend a cooler for my motherboard?
Is it possible to use one which doesn't have these plastic pegs?
Thanks

For anybody to make a recommendation they need to know which Intel CPU you have. I use a stock cooler, however when I looked into aftermarket coolers for a system I built last year, the specs listed which CPU sockets work with them, and sometimes a rated wattage.

Also, you would need to measure the cooler and fan you have and try to get something about the same size. Many aftermarket coolers are taller and/or wider than a typical stock cooler, and then you need to figure out if there will be enough clearance between them and other items in your case or on the motherboard.

[Humbug]

Right have now got identical motherboard.
Do i know just add thermal paste to heatsink fan/processor and away i go?
Will the motherboard work without any disc drivers etc being installed?
If i say just make sure all connections go back like for like and any jumpers etc set to the same will it work?

Regarding paste whats the best one to get and any tips on best way to install.

[redwudz]

Just spread a thin layer of thermal compound about three magazine pages thick on the CPU after you have throughly washed it and the HS off with 70% - 99% isopropyl alcohol and it's dried. I use one of those 'fake' credit cards they send me in the mail all the time to spread it. You can also just put a small blob on there and hope it spreads properly. The amount generally recommended is about equivalent to a grain of rice. I prefer spreading it myself.

One guide: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_properly_apply_thermal_paste_and_install_cpu

A popular brand of heat sink compound is Arctic Silver or one of the newer ceramic compounds. Arctic also makes one of those. Lots of good compounds out there.

Disk drivers are part of the OS, so you don't need to install them separately.

If the MB is the same, just use the same connections. Most newer MBs don't have jumpers you need to set for normal operation. You may have to make a few BIOS adjustments, but without the old BIOS settings for reference, just use defaults and see how it works.

I have an old guide on putting together a simple PC that may give you some ideas: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/255934-Guide-How-to-Build-a-Basic-Computer?

I can't tell you much about Intel heat sinks, but there are lots of bolt on versions. You would have to check some of the aftermarket companies like Thermaltake, Coolermaster or some of the others. Make sure it will fit your case and won't block your RAM. Most of the bolt-ons need to be installed with the MB out of the computer. But that's the way I do with all HS installations.

[DarrellS]

Use the manual that you got with the new motherboard to hook up the wires (and any other components that you are unsure about). You may need to use a magnifying glass (I do) or if you have another computer close by, download the user manual from the MB website.

My brother and I put together two builds this weekend and he connected the wires. I had to go behind him on both machines and reconnect the wires because neither machine would run. He doesn't believe in reading manuals.

The first thing I do when I buy a new CPU is toss the Intel cooler. You can get a Coolermaster Hyper 212 for $30. The instructions on those are very hard to read though so I'm not sure if you'll be able to install it or not. You may need to get someone to help you since it seems to be a two man job. The older model was a breeze to install. You need to install the cooler before you install the board unless your case has an opening in the back to access the nuts that tighten the cooler down. Don't buy any cooler with the pushpins. They have a habit of vibrating loose and hanging off of the CPU.

I put a small amount of compound on both the CPU and the heatsink and I spread it out with a plastic baggy. I spread it in one direction (north and south) and then spread it the other direction (east and west) until I have a thin layer covering the hole CPU and heatsink. Try and have the hatchmarks in the compound going different directions. East and west on the CPU and north and south on the heatsink or Vice-Versa. Both computers we built this weekend are running 27* to 32* Celsius.

[lordsmurf]

Where is a USB port support to be on a mother boar, anyway?

[mL999]

hello humbug the cooler you refer to is for an Intel Pentium 4 processor which fits Socket type 775 . If thats what you have it will do but you may find a cheaper/more effective alternative which bolts onto the board . The notes that come with your new board will name the processor and socket type so you can check . Perhaps you can replace your broken fixing peg with a nut and bolt (make sure to use insulating washers so as not to short circuit any tracks on the board .
The BasicInputOutputSystem is incorporated in the motherboard in the . Your main Operating System ( windows whatever is on your hard drive ). In this case it will probably work more or less normally straight away . The optical drive(s) do not need installing immediately . The memory cards are required - handle them carefully .
The building guide which Redwudz refers to is excellent . ( thanks Red I am saving myself a copy . I hope everyone who reads this does the same ) Read it several times . .. I was going to say good luck but good care beats good luck .....best wishes mike

[Humbug]

Thanks for all your advice people.
Will give it a go and let you know how i get on!
Cheers

[magillagorilla]

Where is a USB port support to be on a mother boar, anyway?

It's around the backside under the tial. Though it is ill advised to plug anything in to it.

@HUMBUG
I don't want to come off as sounding unsupportive, but you should consider taking that computer to a shop to have the MB installed. Seeing that your last maintenance attempt involved lunging a screw driver in to the main board, and when your computer would not pass POST you described it as a USB problem. Building computers can get tricky, especially with used components.

If you proceed with the repair try to do it on a hard surface in a non-carpeted room. Static discharge can cause damage to components.

[Humbug]

Right have installed new motherboard with exactly the same one as before.
I now have all usb ports working and it recognises my mouse keyboard etc.
Only problem got now is that it says:

NTLDR is missing
Press ctrl,alt and delete.

If i do this it just beeps and throws up the same message on the screen.

Any ideas on what i need to do to rectify my problem.

Am on windows 7

[Humbug]

Pressed F8 after pressing ctrl,alt and delete.
Got a boot page chose hard drive which i know windows 7 is on and bingo boots windows as normal.
Thought i'd cracked it but as soon as i rebooted it came back with missing NTLDR error again.
If i press F8 and choose correct hard drive windows boots fine.

How do i get it to always boot from the correct hard drive

In windows XP you used to be able to go into the boot menu and choose which device to boot from and then save it.

Is there something in windows 7 similar.
Thanks

[redwudz]

NTLDR= NT Loader is missing. That means the BIOS can't find the location of the OS boot files. Strange, as W7 uses BOOTMGR, not NTLDR, that's from XP.

Make sure your hard drive is set as first boot option. You can do this in BIOS. Also make sure there is no disc in the DVD drive.

It sounds like you tried the 'F8' option as that would have been my next suggestion.

[mL999]

I have read your latest (about f8 ) --- check ' boot sequence ' of the BIOS you are making very good progress . if all else fails read whatever notes notes came with the motherboard . mike

[Humbug]

Managed to get it to boot from correct hard drive.
Only thing i now notice is that there a beep just before it boots windows.
Anyone know why?

[TBoneit]

Most motherboards give a beep once the Power On Self test (POST) has passed to tell you all is OK and then they boot windows.

Read the motherboard manual to find out how to get into the bios setup program and select the hard drive that has windows on it. Right now it sounds as if a different drive is set as the boot drive.

BTW the NTLDR message is a Bios error message.