Building a PC for Video Editing/Encoding - Need Advice plz!

[MaTTuP]

I usually buy my PC's off the shelf, but I'm getting more and more frustrated with the lack of upgradability from PC on the market. So, I'm thinking about building my own PC. I've never done this before, but I think I'm familiar enough with the inside of the computer to do it.

Primarily I want to use the PC for video editing/encoding/authoring, and web design. I'd like to stay in the neighborhood of $1,200 (inc. monitor, speakers, keyboard, mouse, etc.).

My only problem is I don't know a ton about specs on hardware and what is important to consider for compatibility reason, and having enough power to accomplish what I want to do.

Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations? Any help is appreciated!

[usually_quiet]

I was in a similar place a couple of years ago, and built my own PC for the first time last year. Here are a few questions you should ask yourself before shopping.

What kind of video will you be working with, and is it HD or SD?
How many monitors will you be using at one time and what kind of connections (DVI, HDMI, VGA)?
What size monitors?
What peripherals do you want to re-use (internal drives, external drives, printer, scanner, game controllers, graphics tablet etc.).
Which OS do you want to use, and will it be a 32-bit or 64-bit version?
Will you be using any GPU accelerated encoders? If so, which one(s).
Do you prefer AMD or do you prefer Intel?
Will you overclock?
Do you want USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s?
Do you still need to have legacy connections on the motherboard (PS/2, firewire, EIDE, serial port or floppy drive)?
Is a full-size ATX system acceptable, or do you need a smaller size?
Wireless or wired mouse and keyboard?

[MaTTuP]

What kind of video will you be working with, and is it HD or SD?
- Mostly HD, in some circumstancies SD.

How many monitors will you be using at one time and what kind of connections (DVI, HDMI, VGA)?
- Just 1 monitor

What size monitors?
- 22-27"?

What peripherals do you want to re-use (internal drives, external drives, printer, scanner, game controllers, graphics tablet etc.).
- I'm covered on most of things I think, except for the internal drives obviously.

Which OS do you want to use, and will it be a 32-bit or 64-bit version?
- Which would be more suitable for working with video?

Will you be using any GPU accelerated encoders? If so, which one(s).
- Not sure. I generally work with TMPGenc, Adobe Premier, and Sony Vegas software.

Do you prefer AMD or do you prefer Intel?
- Unfortunately I don't know enough about either to have a preference.

Will you overclock?
- Not familiar with the term..

Do you want USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s?
- What is the difference?

Do you still need to have legacy connections on the motherboard (PS/2, firewire, EIDE, serial port or floppy drive)?
- I don't need a floppy drive. The rest I'm unsure of.

Is a full-size ATX system acceptable, or do you need a smaller size?
- Again, not familiar with the terms.

Wireless or wired mouse and keyboard?
- I'll probably get wired mouse & keyboard.


I probably sound like an idiot with most of the hardware questions. This is a big step for me. I just want to get hardware that is all compatible with each other and suits my needs.

[redwudz]

Overclocking= running a CPU at a higher speed to gain performance. This will increase the heat output of the CPU, so usually needs extra cooling. OCing is always something you can do at a future time if you need a performance gain.

ATX, Micro ATX= two common sizes of motherboards. Usually Micro-ATX has on board video. Which one you use depends on your computer case size and your hardware requirements. ATX MBs usually use a separate video card, have more PCI slots for add on cards and more slots for RAM. Newer Micro ATX MBs do quite well in performance. If you are a gamer and need very high performance video cards, then a ATX MB may be a better choice.

USB 3.0, SATA 6= Newer specifications. Not a bad idea for 'future proofing' your system so it's up to date with newer technology.

AMD, Intel= I prefer AMD, mostly for the cost benefit. The six core CPUs have very good performance with HD video operations.

32, 64bit= I've stuck with 32 bit as I still don't see any great advantages to 64bit OSs and they aren't compatible with some of the programs I normally run. But that's up to you. I definitely would recommend Windows 7.

The thread for the PC in my computer details is here if you need some ideas: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/270162-AMD-six-core-CPU-and-Corsair-H50-water-cooling-setup?

[usually_quiet]

Monitors:

For a monitor on the desk, sitting about 2 feet away, I'd go with 22" monitor. If you will sit further away, larger is OK. If a small number of dead pixels would bother you, buy the monitor at a brick and mortar store with a no questions asked return policy. If you are unlucky and get a monitor with some dead pixels, many retailers won't take it back unless the number exceeds a certain limit.

Keyboards and Mice:

Go to a store and look at keyboards and mice there to decide what you like, since touch and feel can be a factor. It isn't a bad idea to look at monitors too, while you are at it.

Other Peripherals:

If you are replacing all your peripherals, no problem. However, going from XP to Windows 7, there may not be compatible drivers available for some printers, scanners, graphics tablets, etc. Vista drivers will usually work for windows 7, but not always. Microsoft's website or the manufacturers website to check compatibility. If there is something essential that must be replaced because of driver issues, it's best to know that ahead of time and budget for it. Some old video cameras, capture devices, drives, keyboards and other peripherals may require legacy connections (EIDE, serial port, parallel port, PS/2, firewire) that are not always present on the latest motherboard. Fortunately, PCI firewire cards are cheap if you need them.

OS considerations:

I would normally advise getting Windows 7 for a new PC build too, unless there is some very important piece of hardware or software that is incompatible with Windows 7. Check software compatibility for anything especially important. The publisher's website or a forum may be helpful.

I purchased Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit for myself. I saved a little money by buying an OEM license, since I don't plan to move that copy of Windows 7 to a different computer someday. Getting a retail license would have cost about twice as much. Like redwudz, I was concerned that some of the programs I use frequently would not function with a 64-bit OS.

VGA:

GPU accelerated encoders require specific graphics cards, but you aren't using one, so you have more options available, including onboard video.

I find my AMD onboard graphics with sideport memory to be fine for watching HD video, and it saved me a little money on a very tight budget. Some people need a graphics card for what they do: running multiple monitors using HDMI or DVI, heavy gaming, 3D modeling, CAD, GPU assisted encoding etc. Others just prefer one. With MATX and ATX motherboard that have onboard graphics, adding a discrete grapics card later if needed is still an option.

Most graphics cards will block one of the card slots next to them. Sometimes that's a real problem with MATX motherboards, since they have only 4.


Thoughts on hardware in general:

If you are neither an Intel fanatic nor an AMD fanatic, it gives you more choices.

If you don't plan to overclock, no worries. If wanted to overclock substantially, you would need to select your motherboard, CPU, and memory more carefully, and use an aftermarket CPU cooler.

If you don't know whether or not you need legacy connections, you probably don't.

Look at customer reviews, but be aware that people are more inclined to report problems than good results. Also look at product reviews for things you like at anandtech and tomshardware. Maximum PC might be an OK source too but reviews from PC World, PC Magazine, CNET, and other more mainstream sources are less valuable.

Motherboards and CPUs:

For HD video the faster and more the CPUs the better. The best Intel CPUs beat the best AMD CPUs, but on your budget you can't afford them. You might be able to afford something close to redwudz system.

I had a much smaller budget than you have and choose AMD on account of CPU price, AMD onboard graphics, and flexibility for upgrading the CPU later. AMD's latest CPUs from dual core to six core can all use an AM3 socket, though you have keep the CPU watt limitations for the motherboard in mind while shopping.

Here are some examples of motherboards from two companies with decent reputations. If you don't want onboard graphics different examples would be better. These may or may not be right for you. You would need to decide what you really need for yourself.

A high-end MATX motherboard (for AMD AM3 CPUs) with good onboard graphic and sideport memory.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130269

A comparable ATX motherboard (for AMD AM3 CPUS) with good onboard graphics and sideport memory

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128435

An MATX motherboard (for Intel LGA1156 CPUs) with Intel's onboard graphics

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130256

A comparable ATX motherboard (for Intel LGA1156 CPUs) with onboard graphics

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128437

USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s are the latest spec. Although they add to the cost of the motherboard, get them for future use if you can. More and more add-on cards, especially TV cards and capture cards are using PCI-E interfaces rather than PCI. Get a board with at least one PCI-E slot in addition to the PCI-E graphics slot.

I looked at MSI and Gigabyte motherboards when I built my system. I settled on MSI for myself because I liked the layout better and their board included 128 megabytes of sideport memory, which improves the performance of the onboard graphics. Gigabyte has a better warranty and is regarded as better for overclocking. Another difference between the two is in the orientation of the SATA connections on the motherboard. Gigabyte's face up, which means sometimes a long video card or add-on card can block them. With most of MSI's boards the majority of the SATA ports face the front of the case, which means that those boards are poor choices for cases with drive cages or other structural elements sitting up against the right edge of the board.

When they first came out there was often a problem with six core AMD CPUs not being recognized by compatible motherboards built before they arrived. The motherboards in question didn't have the latest BIOS revision, and could not be updated without a CPU in place, so it was Catch-22. Most of the old stock is probably gone now, but you never know.

PSUs:

Power supply calculators are available to tell you what to capacity you need to buy. Don't buy the cheapest one you can find, and the ones that come with cases are often poor quality products. Make sure the PSU provides enough SATA power connectors. The cheaper offerings in good product lines sometimes skimp there.

Memory:

As for memory, it is safest to buy someting from the motherboard manufacturer's recommended list for that board. If using an MATX case, sometimes the memory sits under a drive cage, so low-profile memory is needed. Taller memory or memory with heat spreaders won't fit. Also a 32-bit OS can address less than 4 GB total maximum of installed RAM, and that figure includes any memory on the graphics card(s).

Cases:

Cases are a hard one. I looked for a case and PSU last and spent more time with cases than anything else. Nice ATX cases are easier to find, and the more money you can budget there the happier you will likely be when it comes to putting things in the case. If you happen to have mature taste and would prefer a case that does not have an "attitude", or windowed side panels and lots of colorful lighted fans, you have fewer choices.

Most ATX cases can be used with an MATX motherboard. The smaller MATX cases are harder to work with, have fewer drive bays, and nice ones are harder to find. I bought an MATX case, and I'm not sorry because I wanted something I could carry under one arm, but it made things more difficult for me.

[classfour]

I'm running a 3 yr old Dell E521 with a hotter processor (3 Ghz) and 4 GB RAM. It does what I need. A little over a terabyte of total disc space, and twin DVD burners. Old Hauppauge PVR-250 card for capture, and a MSI for HD. Not much, but it gets me there.

Intel boards tend to be more stable. RAM quantity is dependent on OS, use the maximum recognized. Video cards depend on what games you want to play, and have less to do with video editing, etc.; faster hard drives certainly don't hurt for video editing - and slow ones will bottleneck you. I like big monitors - have a 23, but a 27 would be better.....if I could afford it.

[classfour]

--AND-- GET A GOOD POWER SUPPLY!


The last cheap one that I bought (550 watt).


FRIED two motherboards, one power supply tester,

one CPU,

four sticks of RAM.

TWO puffs of smoke, ONE lesson learned.

And that's why I bought an "under powered, off the shelf, Dell" three years ago.

Just my experience.

BTW: I can find a desktop in the "scratch and dent" bin with acceptable hardware (to start with) for little more than the cost of the motherboard and CPU.

Add drives.

The OS is basically free.

And it has a warranty.

That's why I stopped building computers for other folks....Dell, and HP, and ASUS (gateway and their ilk sold out).

I am not a machine.

Good Luck.

[redwudz]

A few final thoughts. I agree a good quality PS is essential. A failure there can destroy the whole system. Stick with a good name brand PS.

When you look at motherboards, download their manual. A lot of good info there. And if that's the MB you are buying, it gives you a heads up when the MB arrives and makes assembly a bit easier.

You can spend a lot of time researching the components. This costs nothing and will pay off when you make your final decisions about your build.

I still have a build guide available in PDF format, a bit out of date, but it may have some useful info: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/255934-Guide-How-to-Build-a-Basic-Computer?

[TBoneit]

Stray Thoughts:

Personal opinion Intel processor. either i7 or quad core. The AMD stuff just doesn't seem to last as long. I work in a computer store doing repairs and that is what I see. Intel HSF from a retail box works fine if you don't overclock and they'll last longer than other brand HSFs and be quieter.

4Gb memory

Two 1TB drives, Western Digital Black.

BluRay Burner, It'll read & burn anything. I paid $99 on sale for a 10X BD burner. It works fine with Verbatim blank BD-R which is my preferred brand.
If you have a HD TV consider using it as a monitor with a wireless keyboard & mouse for the computer.
Decent Video Card $100+ Geforce that supports Cuda. That will let you use Cuda enabled apps for faster encoding.

Get a decent case. If you don't overclock you don't need a lot of fans. The Antec 300 works ok. Things to look for Quiet, who wants to hear the computer running. Mine is hooked up to the HDTV. Since I use it in a dark room I pulled all the things that give off light except the Hard drive activity light. Quiet Brand name power supply.

Look at the case and where it will be sited. Four USB ports on the front are good. Then where are they located? If the case will be on a table, bottom mounted USB ports are OK. If it will be siting on the floor look for one of the cases where the USB ports are on top. A Door on the front may look nicer but you may get tired of always opening & closing it.

Motherboard, Think USB 3, Maybe firewire, a Nice i7 motherboard with 6 memory slots for future expansion.

Monitor, Think location. A glossy screen will reflect any lights back at you. Matte won't, Glossy may look better. You have to decide based on where everything will be located.

Get some wire ties so you can neaten things up.

Windows 7, Home premium is fine for most users. Pro and up is overkill for most people in the home. Great marketing gimmick to suck more money out of peoples wallets. For business Pro is better.

[usually_quiet]

I visited the manufacture's product page and downloaded the manual for most of the motherboards and other parts I was interested in, and it was indeed a big help. One thing to be aware of: if a feature or accessory is listed as "optional" at the manufacturer's product page, it isn't likely to be included.

A couple of other things regarding PSUs. The motherboard manual will often specify a minimum PSU capacity. If for some reason the PSU calculator's result is below that figure, follow the motherboard maker's recommendations instead. Also, pay attention to the connections used to power your motherboard. Newer ATX and MATX boards often have 8 pin 12V connectors, but some older PSU models only provide a 4 pin connector.

[Edit] I made a poor suggestion regarding the Intel motherboards in my previous post. The onboard graphics only works with certain CPUs, i3s and i5s with Clarkdale cores, which include a GPU. Any of the current compatible quad cores would need a discrete graphics card installed to work with those boards.