JVC DR-M10 Loading and Repair Question

[lordsmurf]

My M10 finally quit this morning after almost three years. I had the "Loading" issue before but usually the machine would shut down after blinking for two minutes. Unplugging it for a few minutes would quell the problem. This time after pushing STOP to end a recording, the blinking just kept going and no amount of unplugging the machine would stop it. I checked the board and one of the larger capacitors was bulged.

I would not scrap the machine, I would get it repaired. Either by JVC or pay somebody here.

[Coruscant]

I would not scrap the machine, I would get it repaired. Either by JVC or pay somebody here.

When I bought the machine three years ago, I had no idea what to expect. I was rather hard on VCRs so I purchased a maintenance contract, but aside from the loading issue I experienced no other problems and never found the time to bring it in for the fix. Now it's unavoidable but since I still have two years left it won't cost me anything but time.

My mistake was in buying it from a shop that does their repairs a hundred miles away. I'm told that it could be a month until I get it back. Next time, I'll buy from a reputable store that has a local repair shop. Worse, I opened the case before bringing it in and saw the bulged capacitor. The clerk who took my unit said he couldn't write this down as that would indicate that I'd opened the case and thus voided the maintenance contract.

[xmiinc]

...read the latest here...thought I'd mention my repair + mod is working flawlessly 10 days on...couldn't have done it without this thread! If you can handle a soldering iron, its definitely worth a diy repair. The info is all in this thread...!

[Offroad]

My JVC DR-M10S (NTSC version) was purchased in May 2004, and was sent in to JVC for repair of the Loading Problem in July of 2005. I have never had any Green Lines on video recordings. The Loading problem has returned but now can't be reset by unplugging the unit.

From what I see in this thread if I try and repair this myself, I would want to perform the following power supply service:

1. Replace resistors R5307 and R5308.
2. Visually check Capacitors C5202, C5203, C5204, C5207, C5208 and C5209 for bulging and leakage replacing as needed.
3. Check the Diodes and board for heat damage and replace as needed.

Where is a good place to get the parts?

Thanks.


***Update***
I opened the case and did a visual inspection, C5203 has a bulge on its top but all other components appear ok.


***Update***
After replacing capacitors C5202, C5203, C5204, C5207, C5208, C5209 and resistors R5307 and R5308 my unit is now working fine.

I obtained the parts from Digi-Key www.digikey.com
For C5203, C5204, C5207, C5208 I used Digi-Key #493-1794-ND (2200uF 16V)
For C5202 I used Digi-Key #493-1709-ND (1200uF 6.3V)
For C5209 I used Digi-Key #493-1787-ND (680uF 16V)

These are all 105 degree caps by Nichicon, the 2200uF 16V models were rated for 7000hrs and the others for 5000hrs. For resistors R5307 and R5308 I used Digi-Key #P390W-2BK-ND (390ohm 2watt 5%)

Total cost including a $5 surcharge for not meeting Digi-Key's $25 minimum order and USPS Priority shipping was $9.39 Digi-Key shipped the same day of my order and I had the parts two days later.

I mounted the resistors as high as the leads on them would allow as was suggested to get the heat they produce farther away from the Caps. I imagine replacing only C5203 would have fixed my problem but I thought I might as well replace the others given the cost. Thanks to all who spent time diagnosing the issues with the DR-M10 as it enabled me to fix mine and others to do the same.

I would like to find a power source for the fan that would keep it running during standby (waiting for a timed record). Mine is cool while running and cool in power save mode (not waiting for a timed record) but gets hot during standby as the fan doesn't run. I didn't used to but will now be leaving the unit in power save mode when not in use.

[video99]

My JVC DR-M1 (UK version) had been updated by JVC and has been working for some years. However when recording, it took recently to giving a very garbled display on the Composite Video output and shortly thereafter crashing and rebooting.

Here is the list of 105 degree rated capacitors in the Power Supply of a UK DR-M1:

• C5206 18uF 50V
  C5103 27uF 35V
  C5201 220uF 6.3V
  C5202 1200uF 6.3V
  C5209 680uF 16V
  C5210 680uF 6.3V
  C5207 1500uF 10V
  C5204 2200uF 16V
  C5208 2200uF 10V
  C5203 2200uF 10V

I replaced these with high temperature, low ESR where possible, components sourced from Farnell (www.Farnell.co.uk). So here was my shopping list including their part numbers:

• Order Code Qty Description Mftr. & Part No. Unit Price Line Price
  9692088 3 CAPACITOR, 2200UF 16V PANASONIC - EEUFC1C222 0.60 1.80
  1144684 1 CAPACITOR, 1500UF 10V RUBYCON - 10ZL1500M10X23 0.53 0.53
  1144681 1 CAPACITOR, 680UF 10V RUBYCON - 10ZL680M8X16 0.27 0.27
  1144691 1 CAPACITOR, 680UF 16V RUBYCON - 16ZL680M10X16 0.39 0.39
  1144645 1 CAPACITOR, 220UF 6.3V RUBYCON - 6.3ZA220M6.3X11 0.68 0.68
  9692371 1 CAPACITOR, 18UF 50V PANASONIC - EEUFC1H180 0.075 0.08
  9692398 1 CAPACITOR, 27UF 50V PANASONIC - EEUFC1H270 0.132 0.13
  9691863 1 CAPACITOR, 1200UF 6.3V PANASONIC - EEUFC0J122 0.32 0.32
  Goods Total: 10.35
  VAT: 1.81
  Total: 12.16

I checked all the components which came off my power supply, only for capacitance since I don't yet have an ESR meter. To my surprise, I found that C5103 had dropped from 27uF to 11uF, so this was likely to have been at least part of the problem. It is not with the main bunch of 105C capacitors, but still subjected to a lot of heat.

The unit now works without crashing. I was able to order from an account and so pay no postage, the whole bill being £12. Even with postage though, it's quite affordable and keeps your machine going. These machines do perform very well (especially if you are able to record from s-video sources) so are worth saving.

Regards,

Colin

[xmiinc]

Thanks for the Digikey info, Offroad, that'll save me a lot of time when I get around to ordering the rest of these parts. My freebie cap from Radio Shack got me up and running again (and still going, 2 weeks later), but I noted the scorched board in some areas and fully expect to have one or more of those heat-stressed parts fail on me sooner or later.

[vicitacion]

Does any one in the UK have access to the service manual for the JVC DR-MV5S?
I do need the JVC Part Number for the EEPROM
I need to compare the UK FW with US FW to make it region "0" and make the video output switchable to PAL or NTSC.
I do have the US FW, I need the UK or Australia FW or EEPROM Part Number
Thanks
Vici

[laserman]

JVC Part No.

LPN1001-001C-32

This is the eeprom for the MV5-SEK version (UK)

Good luck!

ps Which programmer are you using ?

[vicitacion]

The EEPROM is available here for U$S32 I already ordered one
I'm using EE TOOLS TOP MAX
I'll extract the FW and I'll compare it with the US version, then find where the difference are.
This unit uses the same LSI logic Processor as the LITEON LVW-5045, meaning the same language and probably same location for the region ,etc
The problem I've seen on this unit is that requires to set the region to the DVD Drive otherwise is not recognized, therefore I also need to find some one to make the DVD Drive (LG GDA-4063B)FW region "0"(I'll provide FW copy)
Keep you post it
Vici

[laserman]

Wow, thats a serious programmer !

Do the MV5`s all have the 4063b drive ? In the UK the MV1`s have both 4040b and 4063b.
I can get the firmware for the above drives (unspecified region), however the region setting is a different story. To set the drive to region 2 (UK), the cd is a mere 7 bytes ! So I would suspect to set it to region 0, it would also be 7 bytes.
As you know, both the eeprom and drive need to be set to the same region.

Keep us posted.

[vicitacion]

Here the MV1 came originally with GDA-4040B then came the upgrade for GDA-4120B and nothing more after that because they were out of warranty.
The MV5 came first with GDA-4120B the the upgrade was GDA-4163B and nothing after that, but if you take the GDA-4164L set the region plus upgrade to the latest FW to the unit, will work fine.
It's 7 butes for region 0, but I never done it for these DVD Drives. Have you tried?
Last time I modded one I sent the FW to "the dangerous brothers" and they did it for me.
But the main thing is to find the address where the Digital Board EEPROM has the region setting.
Do you know anyone who modded the MV1 or MV5 in UK?
Next week I'll remove the eeprom and install a socket.
You may be wonder why I like to Mod an old unit. Well.. MV5 is the last JVC design and also allows DVD recording of HBO, Cinemax, etc. MV5 replacement and current units are all manufacture by LG(I already made them all region 0) but none of them allows to do DVD recording on copywrite broadcast material. People here are returning the units back to the seller.
Let's see what happen

[laserman]

I have applied the region 0 modded dvd firmware to a 4040b. It works, but it isn`t a very elegent solution as the unit may fail to initialise if left powered off for a few days. I think the eeprom senses the mismatch.
Your right to look at the eeprom data and compare the two.
Best of luck!

[vicitacion]

May be because you did region 0 using the FW from a GSA-4040B.
All JVCs use GDA prefix instead of GSA.
GSA4163B FW is not the same as GDA-4163B FW.
I'll try to remove the GDA FW from the 4163B original to make region 0 change.
Contact me direct at rafaela3864@yahoo.com to exchange info
Thanks

[xmiinc]

If I were to replace D5502 and D5503, how would I order them on Digikey? I know they're Zeners (I think?) and they operate with -27V on the MV1S, but otherwise I'm ignorant about what I'm looking for to replace them. Help!

<snip>

D5502 is not a zener diode like D5503. Its purpose is temperature compensation for drift in D5503. In this application the voltage across D5502 is low so it handles little power. D5503 consumes nearly 38 times more power than D5502 so just worry about D5503. D5503 creates the -29V which is used by the display.

Regarding finding C5206 and C5207 blown. It has been my concern that some capacitors in these unit's power supplies are operating too close to their maximum voltage rating. Others have reported that JVC factory service replaced capacitors so I am not suprised.

It was correct to replace them with higher voltage rated parts. Increasing the capacitance value itself is unlikely to have much effect. The voltages these parts filter feed into voltage regulator circuits which do more clean up.

[trhouse]

These are the parts that can be used for D5502 and D5503 from the MV1S schematic. Only D5503 is a zener. D5502 is for temperature compensation.

[xmiinc]

Thanks for the quick reply, trhouse! But I still don't know how to order diodes from Digikey...for the zener they have 2 major types and then about 4 additional criteria by which to choose what type of zener to order, and I don't have a clue about such things. For instance, there is evidently no such thing as a strictly 27V zener. As for the alternate p/n's shown in the graphic, I plugged in the one's shown for the D5503 in the forlorn hope Digikey would recognize it...but no, its apparently not that simple :/

I spent a couple of hours scouring the thread (again), but didn't find any specs that were written that would help in this regard. I've got all that info for the caps and resistors...but not these diodes.

I do know I want to eventually replace the two diodes (one a zener) because the scorch marks on the MV1 digiboard indicate heat stress, and I want to have parts on hand to replace them with.

Thanks again, cheers, Tom

[trhouse]

Does it have to be DigiKey?

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Matsushita/JVC/MTZ27C/New.aspx

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Matsushita/JVC/1SS133.aspx?s=sspro

[xmiinc]

I suppose not, but all the other parts will be coming from there. (Not to mention the price of these diodes from your vendor gets me close, if not over, the $25 digikey minimum...) But who's quibbling? Thanks so much for your help, trhouse! I love my MV1S and I wanna keep it running!--Tom

[trhouse]

Try this company. No minimums.

http://www.newark.com/

[xmiinc]

What, you got somethin against Digikey? lol. Thanks again for your invaluable help!--Tom

[Jaden]

Hi all,

I have an Australian model DR-M10SAA (JAPAN made) and it started to show signs of the 'loading' fault. It is very hard to find some technical help but this forum provided the best information. I did the following and it seems to be OK????

The board is a different build to a lot of the DR-M10's talked about here, (Serial #139X0203) The power supply caps were bulging so I replace all that were recomended with quality cas (low ESR).

C5202,5203,5204,5207,5208 & C5209. The mentioned resistors do not exist. The unit powered up and the 'loading' error came back, but after 30 seconds went away. I recorded for 4 hours and will record today for 6 hours while it is wamer for the unit.

It seems if the power is of for more than 1/2 hour the 'loading' fault will show then go away. I will see if the unit keeps working.

I also tried to upgrade the ROM drive but it did not like it! Anyone know if this has been done? The deck is only a
-RW drive.

Cheers
Jamie

[trhouse]

Did you check the encoder assembly to see if your unit has the factory added two, 1K pullup resistors?

[Jaden]

Sorry for the delayed reply trhouse,

Where is the encoder board? Is it the shielded board to the right? That is the only board I could not see the name of.

But the unit has been running faultless since the last posting.

Anyone any ideas on changing the DVD drive??

[306 Maxi]

Hi guys! I'm Stefano from Italy, sorry for my English.
Fisrt of all, thx to all of you for this very useful thread.

I bought my DR M10S in December 2004; after 8 months, i had the green line + LOADING problem; i took it to a JVC repair centre and they fixed both problems, but after few months the LOADING problem returned; day by day the problem was more and more frequent: now, the dvd-rec is pratically useless because every time i rec with timer, it blocks and LOADING blinks...


I've just opened the rec and the capacitor C5203 has a little bulge and a very small brown leakage; the C5207 and C5208 have a very little bulge and no leakage; others capacitors are OK; in particular, the C5202 has already been replaced during the first warranty repair, and it's already a 16 V capacitor (105°C).
I've not the resistors problem because it's a PAL unit and there aren't that 2 resistors.

Tomorrow i'll buy 3 capacitors 16V 2200 uF 105°C; i'll ask for low impedance one, right?
Then i will replace them, and make you know if the problem is finally fixed.

I've already made a little modification to the external case... i've drilled some holes on the left side and on the top side, corresponding to the capacitors and the dissipator. The result is not nice to view... but surely efficacious in taking down temperature; maybe some more dust will go into the rec, but i prefer some dust than... a cooked dvd-rec...
I'm also thinking about a little fan to add... but i wait if someone of you know how to power it when the dvd is in stand-by mode.

Tomorrow i will post all the photos of the job.

OK, see you tomorrow for news!
Ciao, Stefano.


PS: do you suggest to add also the two 1K Ohm resistors? I think that replacing capacitors is enough, also because now i've not the green lines problem. Thank you!

[306 Maxi]

Here I am...

I've just finished the job, now i'm testing it. I want to rec for 6-7 hours without break.



Here are some photos of the job I've done.

The old capacitors on the board: note the C5203 (second from left) with a little bulge and a brown leakage; the C5207 and C5208 (fisrt and second from right) also with small bulges. As i said, the C5202 (the blue one) has already been replaced during the warranty repair, and it's already 16V 2200 uF (even if it's only 85°C, I've not replaced it for now, because it's OK).




The new capacitors: 16V 2200 uF 105°C, just taken today for 1 € each




The new capacitors just soldered on the board (I've tried to put them as far as possible each other).




The lower case cut on the left side




The upper case drilled on the left side




The upper case drilled on the top side, in correspondence of the capacitors zone, the dissipator zone and there are also some holes on the processor zone (to the right)





That's all, now i test it and make you know if the problem is finally fixed.

Another time, thank you very much to all you, in particular mgy999a and trhouse




PS: I think that now I'll use power-save mode when possible; but when I have to rec with the timer it's not possible, so i would like to find with you a way to power a little fan, also during stand-by mode. Do you know where i can find 12V voltage, active also during stand-by?

[Jaden]

Wow! Some mod.

I would replace all the caps that have been recommended, by the pictures I would say the blue cap is close to going. I have had a month of faultless operation and have not had to drill any holes.

Good effort though.

Jamie

[306 Maxi]

Yes, in the picture the blue cap seems to have a bulge, but in reality it's not so, it is OK. However, now itry in this way, then i can cange it very fast now that i know how to do.


Now the rec has a strange behaviour: last night, i rec for 6 hours and no problems, at my home; now it's recording from 1 hour, all OK.
Instead, if i plug it at my girlfriend's home, after 20-30 minutes of recording it blocks and LOADING appears... very strange!
I think in that house there are many periodical change in voltage, not exactly at 220 V (in fact, she had some problems with a cordless phone and a washing machine, for the same reason i think).

Have you got any ideas about this?

This evening i'll change also the blue cap, but as i said i don't think that it is the problem, because at my home all work perfectly.

[Spready]

Hi there,
I have had my JVC DR-M30S for approx 3 years.
The other night it would not turn off after being left on all day (kids!!)
Unplugged from the wall - left it ten mins - powered back on - LOADING!

Have tried various methods of leaving off then powering up - Still LOADING.
LOADING has been left flashing for 2 hours!

I presume I could be looking at the same power problem here as with the M10.

I have had a look on JVC's UK site but can't find anything to do with a service centre.
Any UK help would be appreciated

[trhouse]

Where is the encoder board? Is it the shielded board to the right?

Yes, the shielded assembly on the right side is the digital encoder. It was emlsnws in the UK who first posted photos of it with the factory added two, 1 K resistors. No one at the time realized the purpose of those parts. This assembly is more sensitive to changes in the power supply voltages without the resistors.

Instead, if i plug it at my girlfriend's home, after 20-30 minutes of recording it blocks and LOADING appears... very strange!

That can happen because as the line voltage goes up or down the power supply internal voltages will be affected a little bit too. The sensitivity of the the M10 to these small changes is greater if the unit does not have the added two, 1 K resistors on the encoder assembly.

P.S. I am surprised to see the factory put in an 85 degree C part since the lower temperature part will have a higher failure rate compared to the 105 degree part for any given temperature.

[richard1402]

The "loading" problem will not finally go away after it being intermitent for the past 4 years...
Is there no way of fixing this other than to get out my soldering iron (which I haven't used since 1986)!
Surely JVC should fix this for FREE as it has been inherent in quite a lot of the machines as can be deduced from this forum.
Has anyone had this bug fixed by JVC satisfactorily and for FREE?