Broken Ventilator Needs Mechanical Support

[Subtitles]

I have a ventilator that got broken. Apparently the plastic material wasn't strong enough.
As this is the best ventilator I have ever used, I don't want to throw it away just yet.
As you can see from the pictures, I need mechanical support and I would appreciate it if any mechanical engineer here can make a suggestion.

I am thinking of using a set of 4 pieces straight bracket alongside the two parts. See link below.
After that use adhesive tape over the brackets so that there is no chance to cut my fingers.

Any better ideas to this?
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=straight+bracket+6+inches+4+pcs&crid=2F4DYRXQUOCIQ&sprefix=...f=nb_sb_noss_1

[cholla]

I would try JB Weld .
Get it along the edges ..
It is slow drying so you will need something to hold the parts stationary as possible.
Like a couple of wood blocks with bolts to work as a clamp while drying.
Remove the clamp & apply a generous layer on the outside of the "crack".

Then a good quality duct tape if possible. Like Gorilla brand.

[Subtitles]

Thanks for the suggestion Cholla but I don't like to use any kind of epoxies. I will keep this option in mind though.
Besides, this takes more work than using straight brackets. All I need is a drill and a screwdriver.
The difficult part as you say is holding the two parts straight.
I will dismantle the propellers (there are 2) after taking off the front cover and back cover. This way it will be easier to handle the ventilator, as it takes far less space.
I would need to clean the parts anyway if I succeed.

[cholla]

I forgot to put this in.
If you decide to use epoxy.
Get some latex or nitrile gloves.
Much easier than trying to wash it off.

I have a standing fan ( ventilator) but it is only a year old & still in good condition.
My old one the motor failed but it was probably 20 years old.
This is the fan I have:
Fan

Only one propeller on my fan.
I do disassemble the cage occasionally & clean the propeller.

[pandy]

Provided pictures are insufficient to advise something useful. Detailed view of broken part will be very helpful.

[Subtitles]

Thanks again @cholla
I will definitely not use epoxies of any kind.
You really have a nice fan (ventilator) and the price is good.

[Subtitles]

@pandy you are right.
I will take more photos tomorrow after I disassemble the propellers, front and back covers. It will be easier then.

[Subtitles]

I dismantles all parts, cleaned the motor system and took few images.
The ventilator is of poor design because of the weight of the motors (there are two motors one for the usual work and the second for the up and down movements.
Apparently the plastic was of poor quality and broke the holding mechanism.
Anyway here is the final image. What I want to do is to redesign the holding mechanism between the two parts.
The rod part holds the electronics of the ventilator and the second part is the motor system with the case.
I am back to using brackets. I want to use two 30 cm straight brackets and fix them to the rod using screws and then attach the ends to the motor plastic case.
It should bend easily over the plastic case.
I think two brackets will be strong enough to hold the motor case.
After that use adhesive tape to give it more strength if needed.
What do you think? Any better ideas?
Thank you all for any suggestions.

[Columbo]

I vote for epoxy PLUS your brackets/screws.

[cholla]

You probably already checked this.
Ordering new parts from the manufacturer.

[pandy]

I dismantles all parts, cleaned the motor system and took few images.
The ventilator is of poor design because of the weight of the motors (there are two motors one for the usual work and the second for the up and down movements.
Apparently the plastic was of poor quality and broke the holding mechanism.

Plastic probably was too aged due added optical brightener that makes white whiter than natural. Optical brighteners significantly reduce plastic long term stability. Side to this obviously joint is designed to sustain particular time but not too long - just enough to assure that it will work a while after warranty. Just look at the spring wire diameter and compare to plastic thickness.

Anyway here is the final image. What I want to do is to redesign the holding mechanism between the two parts.
The rod part holds the electronics of the ventilator and the second part is the motor system with the case.
I am back to using brackets. I want to use two 30 cm straight brackets and fix them to the rod using screws and then attach the ends to the motor plastic case.
It should bend easily over the plastic case.
I think two brackets will be strong enough to hold the motor case.
After that use adhesive tape to give it more strength if needed.
What do you think? Any better ideas?
Thank you all for any suggestions.

I would use some epoxy putty reinforced with metal wires thick enough to create joint - you can shape metal wire to recreate general skeleton and with epoxy putty build around such skeleton joint. Perhaps some carpenter shops may help with commonly available metal joints to connect wooden element. Alternatively you can try to design joint in some CAD and later search for company providing CNC services to turn your design into physical element (there is many options for material - thick plywood, metal, reinforced plastic).
Adhesive tape will not work as glue on tape will eventually flow under constant force.

[Subtitles]

As I mentioned before, I will never use epoxy of any kind.

[Subtitles]

You probably already checked this.
Ordering new parts from the manufacturer.

There is no point, as there are no parts available for replacement.

[pandy]

As I mentioned before, I will never use epoxy of any kind.

Fine for me however this significantly narrows your possible options to revive cheaply your favorite device - you can also try to scan 3D broken parts and try to recreate them in computer and later provide this model to company offering CNC services.

[Columbo]

As I mentioned before, I will never use epoxy of any kind.

Then live with your substandard repair and don't whine when things fall apart again down the road.

[Subtitles]

As I mentioned before, I will never use epoxy of any kind.

Then live with your substandard repair and don't whine when things fall apart again down the road.

No Problem. I will not whine.
Will see how long my substandard repair will last.

[cholla]

Maybe some strong glue that is no an epoxy.
Maybe a hide glue:
https://www.titebond.com/product/glues/9e9995b4-08eb-4fc6-8254-c47daa20f8ed
Or contact cement.

If you use some wire as pandy suggested.
stainless steel wire is very strong & tough.
You can get it in various gauges

[GAhere]

As I mentioned before, I will never use epoxy of any kind.

Then live with your substandard repair and don't whine when things fall apart again down the road.

No Problem. I will not whine.
Will see how long my substandard repair will last.

Good heavens..

It is a simple fan on a stand, not a expensive sports car.

It was designed as a throw away device, never meant to be repaired.

As such, if you do not wish to use glues then the best fix is to buy a new fan and be done with it.

Even I am a extreme cheapskate and tend to find "fixes" for broken stuff using lots of "MacGyver" (a TV action show that used all kinds of sketchy bubble gum and bailing wire fixes) tactics, but a stand fan to me isn't worth the time it takes to dismantle, re-engineer and reassemble and hope it stays together for more than a couple of minutes.

For $30 US you can buy a new 3 speed stand fan with oscilation fan..


[Attachment 92665 - Click to enlarge]

I will toss in that epoxy glues will not be the correct "glue" for this device, nope, plastic is most likely PVC or ABS (although ABS is typically black). PVC or ABS glues are readily available and rather inexpensive and work by chemically MELTING the plastic during the glueing process.

Epoxies typically do not stick well to PVC or ABS because they do not MELT the plastic and as such they depend on a highly rough plastic surface and even that is not a guarantee they will work.

Look over the inside of the plastic housing, most manufacturers will add the type of plastic it is, in the molded part, if you see PVC or ABS, one CAN use regular PVC/ABS glue that is used and rated for gluing PVC/ABS drain and vent pipes. You WILL need to also use a primer for PVC, ABS often does not require a primer, but using a primer any way will not hurt. I would recommend even with PVC/ABS, gluing additional plastic over the broken area is a very good idea to reduce the chance of breaking again.

If you can't find a marking inside the plastic housing, you can try dabbing some PVC/ABS rated primer on the plastic, if the plastic softens while the primer is still wet you are golden to use PVC/ABS glue. If no reaction then PVC/ABS glue will not work.

[Subtitles]

@GAhere the fan is expensive and a new one exactly the same costs $150 as it comes with a remote and has multiple speeds and it is very quite.
Yes I can buy a very cheap fan for $30 but I need one with a remote control and this model has been quite good.
It is really worth the trouble to dismantle everything and see how the fan works.
Anyway thank you for your opinion. It is always good to listen to what other members think.

[pandy]

I will toss in that epoxy glues will not be the correct "glue" for this device, nope, plastic is most likely PVC or ABS (although ABS is typically black). PVC or ABS glues are readily available and rather inexpensive and work by chemically MELTING the plastic during the glueing process.

Epoxies typically do not stick well to PVC or ABS because they do not MELT the plastic and as such they depend on a highly rough plastic surface and even that is not a guarantee they will work.

There is no glue that can sustain forces and tensions where original parts broke - epoxy glue (or putty) can create alternate structure able to sustain (replace) original parts - usually glue means in this practical application resin and it need to be reinforced (by applying glass woven fabric or for example wire).

[cholla]

I agree with GAhere on the "plastic glues" that melt the plastic for a start.
Test for softening as GAhere wrote.
Most of these glues set up fast so should hold the pieces together initially but most need some "curing" time.

Then I like pandy's suggestion of wires & i recommend stainless steel wire in a gauge that seems appropriate.
Just embed the wires in another glue.

Research some glues since you do not want to use epoxy; For example:
Construction adhesive or the strongest hot glue sticks.
Maybe even make your own:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2aBagsVUG8

I have worked with fiberglass. Overall not that good for DIY.
If you go this route be aware that it has a very strong smell & I consider it more toxic than any epoxy.
Use several layers of the glass matting. For your application get the finest weave you can find.
My experience with fiberglass is Bell helicopter in final finish & Some body panel manufacturing for modified stock cars.

[GAhere]

I will toss in that epoxy glues will not be the correct "glue" for this device, nope, plastic is most likely PVC or ABS (although ABS is typically black). PVC or ABS glues are readily available and rather inexpensive and work by chemically MELTING the plastic during the glueing process.

Epoxies typically do not stick well to PVC or ABS because they do not MELT the plastic and as such they depend on a highly rough plastic surface and even that is not a guarantee they will work.

There is no glue that can sustain forces and tensions where original parts broke - epoxy glue (or putty) can create alternate structure able to sustain (replace) original parts - usually glue means in this practical application resin and it need to be reinforced (by applying glass woven fabric or for example wire).

Melting the plastic with the correct glue/method WILL create a very substantial bond, it is done all the time every day with plastic plumbing, including high pressure lines.

Ever hear of CPVC? that is a modified form of PVC plastic and is rated for water line pressure duty and every single fitting IS glued together.

https://www.ppfahome.org/page/CPVC

"CPVC Piping Systems Uses & Applications

CPVC piping which is suitable for hot and cold water distribution has a 400 psi pressure rating at room temperature, and a 100 psi pressure rating at 180°F."

Epoxy resin/glue/putty does not attach well to most plastics (unlike the advertisements like to tout), it is more suited for metal to metal, wood to wood, wood to metal, ceramic to ceramic, ect.. Plastic? Not so much. Not to mention there are MANY different versions of epoxy glues which selecting the right one to use for the application is critical.

For any repair subject to torsional movement, additional reinforcement will ALSO be required that is not made of epoxy glue so you can't simply slather a bunch of epoxy putty over the repair joint and it will last forever.

If the plastic item is made from PVC/ABS or even CPVC, the PROPER glue is not Epoxy, but rather the same PVC/ABS glue (with primer) that is used to stick together your PVC/ABS/CPVC plumbing pipes used every day in your home.. Yeah, using the actual glue designed for the plastic is not "MacGyver" approved but keep in mind, real life, is not a TV show fantasy either.

[GAhere]

@GAhere the fan is expensive and a new one exactly the same costs $150 as it comes with a remote and has multiple speeds and it is very quite.
Yes I can buy a very cheap fan for $30 but I need one with a remote control and this model has been quite good.
It is really worth the trouble to dismantle everything and see how the fan works.
Anyway thank you for your opinion. It is always good to listen to what other members think.

Paid to much..

Plenty of remote controlled multispeed stand fans for not much above $30 US to perhaps $80 US..


[Attachment 92669 - Click to enlarge]


[Attachment 92670 - Click to enlarge]

There is a 12 speed fan with remote for $48 US which should have a whisper quiet low speed..

Not really sure why one "needs" a remote on a fan, helps get your blood flowing and some exercise for your body by getting out of a chair once and a while to switch speeds or turn on/off..

[cholla]

I also liked GAhere's suggestion to use plastic glue to glue extra plastic plates or ribs to the repair.

Wire could be glued to those plates for extra strength. With a plastic glue that softens the plastic you can probable embed the wire in the plastic.
Use some small tools to work the glue. Like a mini screwdriver & some toothpicks. Small "spatula" to spread the glue . make your own out of sheet metal.

When other glues are used then a good scuffing with a course sand paper & cleaning of the plastic dust will help a different type glue adhere.

[pandy]

Then I like pandy's suggestion of wires & i recommend stainless steel wire in a gauge that seems appropriate.
Just embed the wires in another glue.

Technically best approach is - use older parts, prepare them (to restore original shape as probably rib is slightly deformed), prepare few wires (bended) and with help of soldering iron melt them in broken parts to re-join them together.
When original shape of joint is restored then reinforce it with additional processing (i still recommends or some epoxy glue with some glass fiber/fabric or epoxy putty with some wire).

I have worked with fiberglass. Overall not that good for DIY.
If you go this route be aware that it has a very strong smell & I consider it more toxic than any epoxy.

This depends - there are other resins than epoxy, some of them almost odorless, some can be cured with UV light some with accelerators...
Generally shops with car parts are good point to start for such chemistry.

[cholla]

I've never used the UV light resins for fiberglass.
I was working with it many years ago.
I was using MEKP .
I would try an automotive Paint & body shop supplier rather than a regular auto parts store.

[pcspeak]

prepare few wires (bended) and with help of soldering iron melt them in broken parts to re-join them together.

Replace the tip of your soldering iron with a bent, smallish FLAT HEADED nail to give a broader faced tip when pressing down on the wire(s)
I've got a nail bent to approx 45 degrees. Works well.

Edit: I saw someone using ordinary paper staples from a desktop stapler. Looked good. They placed each staple, laid flat, approx 3mm apart across the break and then used a soldering iron to embed them. Staples are small, good quality high tensile metal, and won't rust.

[thecoalman]

https://www.grainger.com/product/784KD2?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:KFV4LP:20800606...hoChUgQAvD_BwE

Hard to tell from the pictures but this is just a hinge? Appears the section connected to the fan is bolted or screwed from top. Remove and replace with wooden block which you can screw the new hinge too.. To mount to the other section hope a hole saw is correct diameter. Cut the top section flat and if you can get close enough diameter hole saw partially drill the hole in some wood and stick it in the hole. Now you got something to connect other side of your new hinge too.

[Subtitles]

https://www.grainger.com/product/784KD2?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:KFV4LP:20800606...hoChUgQAvD_BwE

Hard to tell from the pictures but this is just a hinge? Appears the section connected to the fan is bolted or screwed from top. Remove and replace with wooden block which you can screw the new hinge too.. To mount to the other section hope a hole saw is correct diameter. Cut the top section flat and if you can get close enough diameter hole saw partially drill the hole in some wood and stick it in the hole. Now you got something to connect other side of your new hinge too.

Well done you are on the right track.
Will be using a pair of hinges to connect the rod and the motor case directly.

[cholla]

Hi Subtitles,
How did the repair go ?