Mitsubishi HD-HS2000U - vhs/svhs out of FireWire port?

[mikejaz2]

Can anyone explain to me how to get vhs/svhs out of the HD2000U through the firewire port? I can hook it up to my HDTV and they communicate, but try as I might, I cannot seem to get video through the FW cable into my Final Cut edit system. And the manual (written in some strange Japanese-English hybrid) is absolutely no help (except to say that you can't hook it up to a PC). I can't imagine, with all the plaudits this machine gets as an archiving machine, that there isn't a way to get video out digitally.

Thanks in advance

[zoobie]

except to say that you can't hook it up to a PC

the display must also be equipped with 1394 connections and a built-in HD decoder

looks like you're missing the HD decoder

[mikejaz2]

Huh? Is that something that comes on some sort of ring that you get in an Ovaltine jar?

What, praytell, is this "HD decoder" which isn't mentioned anywhere in the owner's manual? And why would I need an HD anything? All I want to do is play SVHS or VHS tapes, have the machine do the A to D conversion, and spit it out the FW port...just like my JVC SRVS20-U used to (before it died).

More info, please.

[zoobie]

search the net for reviews and you'll see it
do you have any other outputs from your HDTV?
maybe you can trick it

[mikejaz2]

Thanks...I'll do a little searching, but I'm not into "tricking", at least not in this case. I can buy the latest JVC DVD-R/SVHS combo with a FW output, and it hooks into my system and does what I need it to do, which is capture my personal and client's older VHS stuff. I went with the Mitsubishi because I heard it was a great "archiving" deck...but it seems to me that, if it won't output digital from anything but DVHS tapes, then I gotta go buy a A to D converter to hook into the analog outputs of the Mitsubishi, which sort of defeats the purpose.

Typical design by a bunch of engineers who never thought of most ways you'd want to use a tape deck. :P

[FulciLives]

Why not just hook up the analog outputs of the Mitsubishi to something like the Canopus ADVC-110 which will then convert it to IEEE 1394 DV for use with a PC or MAC equipped computer?

Sounds reasonable to me.

I mean VHS and S-VHS are NOT digital so even IF the VCR could somehow output VHS/S-VHS through IEEE 1394 it would be doing internally the same thing the Canopus ADVC-110 is doing ... only the Canopus ADVC-110 is made to do nothing but analog to DV and does so exceptionally well ... probably the better solution even IF the VCR could output VHS/S-VHS via IEEE 1394.

In short there is no way to go from VHS/S-VHS to IEEE 1394 without some sort of "conversion" and to think that any VCR should have this "built-in" is asking a bit too much. That's why devices such as the Canopus ADVC-110 exist.

- John "FulciLives" Coleman

[mikejaz2]

In short there is no way to go from VHS/S-VHS to IEEE 1394 without some sort of "conversion" and to think that any VCR should have this "built-in" is asking a bit too much. That's why devices such as the Canopus ADVC-110 exist.

Well, my JVC SRVS20-U did it, and the unit I mention below (which I will be purchasing) does, so I'm not asking for the Mitsu to do anything that hasn't already been done by other manufacturers. I'm just asking that manufacturers NOT cripple devices in the misguided attempt to stop "piracy"...I need a SVHS unit that interfaces smoothly with my edit system (many clients still have material on VHS that they need edited), and obviously the Mitsubishi isn't right for that application.

And though the Canopus (or Data Video, or Dazzle DV Bridge, or any number of units) was a legitimate suggestion, that's not the way I want to go. Why? Because I don't want to have yet another device (oddly shaped at that) to deal with. I want my SVHS deck to act as my A-to-D converter, too, and not have to purchase an outboard device. And I figured that the HD-HS2000 would do that.

I was wrong, and you can bet I'll be informing the seller on eBay that I purchased the unit from that he was somewhat misleading when he answered my questions about output from the deck.

So, the Mitsu is going back to eBay, and I'll be buying a JVC SR-MV45US, a DVD-R/SVHS dual deck which outputs from the FW port. Much easier, much neater. Anyone interested, I'll be listing the Mitsu next week.

[zoobie]

yes...of course...I agree
you've tried capping using HDV software?
passing it thru cams and decks anyway you can?

[SmokieStover]

[/quote]

So, the Mitsu is going back to eBay, and I'll be buying a JVC SR-MV45US, a DVD-R/SVHS dual deck which outputs from the FW port. Much easier, much neater. Anyone interested, I'll be listing the Mitsu next week. [/quote]

JVC SR-MV45US is Firewire INPUT only, per their web site.

Only references I remember regarding your Mitsubishi Deck relate to its TBC and digital noise reduction, which purportedly produces a superior analog signal (similar to the high end JVC S-VHS Decks with these features) for digitizing via hardware mpg or DV AVI encoder...... Have no idea what's compatable with your editing software.

[orsetto]

Awwww fer cryin out loud... everyone wants a free lunch no matter how obscure...

NO, the Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U does NOT internally convert analog VHS into DV format and play it thru its Firewire port. It was never intended to and makes no claims to. Aside from the dubious convenience, why would you even want this? Using the PC *at all* for DVD creation is a royal pain: if you're picayune enough to use a PC then why wouldn't you ALSO want the superior quality, flexibility and control of a PC encoder while you're at it? I really don't get it.

I'm the biggest proponent here of the Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U, it is the best VHS playback machine I've ever used and I've posted to death on it, but never in a bazillion years would I expect it to internally encode analog VHS or SVHS and output it digitally thru its Firewire connection. This is unrealistic to expect when the units are clearly designed as digital *broadcast* HDTV recorders that REQUIRE an outboard tuner/decoder built into the attached TV or cable/satellite box. The brochure and instructions make very plain that the machine has NO internal encoder/decoder, it records/plays PRE-encoded digital datastreams ONLY. That was the intent and design of DVHS from day one- Japan Inc had to fight Hollywood tooth and nail to get the DVHS format off the ground, did you think for one minute Hollywood would not insist on (and get) crippled functionality? Those of us who recommend the Mitsubishi 2000 are speaking of its superior ANALOG playback of old VHS tapes, it outputs a very clean analog signal which can then be more readily encoded by your computer board or DVD recorder of choice. BTW the internal conversion done by the JVC DVHS defeats its TBC/DNR, features we buy the damn decks for in the first place! So even with a JVC, optimum playback flexibility is obtained thru its analog outputs feeding your own encoder board or DVR. So back to square one.

There were only two mfrs of DVHS, which was one of the biggest consumer format flops since the Sony Elcaset fiasco. JVC was first, and their initial run of DVHS models have gained a rotten reputation for overheating and component failure. Why? Because of the near-useless analog>digital encoders they included for the sole purpose of suckering folks into thinking they could convert crummy analog into HDTV. No one in their right mind ever did this because DVHS blanks were too expensive, digitizing to standard DVD made much more sense, and DVHS tapes don't travel well from machine to machine. The only thing the trouble-prone encoders were good for was to convert the stillborn JVC "D-Theater" Hollywood studio DVHS tapes to analog RGB component out for older HDTV panels, primarily in Japan.

Mitsubishi wanted to sell an accessory DVHS companion recorder for their then-pricey HDTV panels, in the misguided hope that bundled sales of HDTVs and DVHS recorders would boost the bottom line of their dealers. But they saw the warranty repair headaches JVC was having due to their analog encoder meltdowns, and wisely decided not to include one in their HS-HD2000U, which has proven to be the most reliable DVHS machine of all. That's the story.

Want a great playback deck for your computer encoder or DVD recorder? Get a Mitsubishi. Want the empty satisfaction that you have a VHS deck that converts analog to digital internally? Get a JVC. Just remember the JVC will be more likely to fail and that a "VHS-to-Firewire-to-computer-editing-software" connection is non-standard, considered undesirable by JVC itself, and may not necessarily work with your particular PC or software. If you're hell-bent on going direct from a JVC DVHS to your editing software, make sure you can test the unit and get a return guarantee from the seller in case the connection doesn't work for you. DVHS never reached the critical mass necessary to forge a standard: it is foolish to buy a DVHS deck and expect any of its digital features to actually work. Pretend they are simply great SVHS decks and you'll be a lot happier.

[BTW anyone considering a "pro" JVC SR-MV45US better have A) a big wallet and B) a mild temper, because they have the highest DOA burner return rate in JVC history. Ever wonder why the list price is $2000 but they sell on eBay for $300? Its because the JVC "Pro" combo units have had a very ugly track record these last couple of years- be careful. I love my older JVC consumer VHS/DVD combo recorders but wouldn't touch an SR-MV45US if you gave it to me.]

[FulciLives]

I think one of the most telling things about the post by orsetto is that even if you can get a JVC D-VHS deck to output VHS/S-VHS via IEEE 1394 ... well why would you if it is going to defeat the "analog clean-up" of the built-in TBC etc.?

I really think based on all information that you (mikejaz2) should keep the Mitsubishi and either use something like a Canopus ADVC-110 or a good quality stand alone DVD recorder like one of the Pioneer models etc.

Pioneer stand alone DVD recorders are still made and released in Canada and Asia and you can find a ton of websites that will import the Asian models (good luck importing the Canadian models unless you know someone in Canada that can ship it to you).

220-Electronics is one reliable and fair priced website that stocks the Asian Pioneer stand alone DVD recorders.

I'm making such a big point about the stand alone DVD recorder option because soemtimes converting NTSC to DV AVI can cause more harm than good due to NTSC DV AVI having a 4:1:1 chroma sampling "error" ... often times you will get better quality just going straight to MPEG-2 DVD spec using a stand alone DVD recorder or something like the Hauppauge WinTV PVR line of MPEG-2 DVD spec computer capture cards/devices. In short I would only go to DV AVI if 1.) Extensive Editing is needed or 2.) The image quality is SO crappy that you need to filter the crap out of it to make it look "better".

- John "FulciLives" Coleman

[deuce8pro]

This is the ideal chain method you want to use for the best results.
SVHS player TBC/DNR TURNED ON (unless picture jitters too much) > svideo out > some form of time based corrector such as the Panasonic es10 with both input and output black levels set to darker and DNR turned on > s-video out > a minidv or digital8 camera with tbc and dnr (audio chords from vcr plugged directly into camera)> firewire > JVC DRM100 or any JVC dvd recorder

[deuce8pro]

I must say to Orsetto, its a little late to purchase those Mitsubishi DVHS decks at the $150 price. When I saw that, I was very tempted. But what I do now is the reliability of the JVC SVHS decks are incredible. When they play something without jitter, you'll never get a better image then that. That is if you prefer clean video. If you guys dont want clean video, then stick with a regular crappy vhs deck. But I think its worth the time and investment to get one of these JVC svhs decks, for the pay off.

[orsetto]

In reply to deuce8pro, yes I know the price on a new Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U has skyrocketed from the under $200 it was when I began recommending it a few months ago. Nonetheless if you don't insist on new-in-box, mint used ones consistently sell under $200 if you keep an eye peeled to look for them. I agree a properly-functioning top-line JVC SVHS is the digitizing standard we hold all recorders to, but JVC's SVHS units are getting rather old now and good used ones without mechanical problems are not all that easy to find anymore. The final run of 9911s was very cheaply made, and that was five years ago already. In contrast to others here, my own experience with JVC SVHS reliability has been 100% awful over the last 20 years. I find their newer DVHS units are significantly more reliable (except for the very first which had meltdown issues).

If you need a vcr with TBC/DNR to transfer your VHS to DVD, your choices are the older JVC SVHS units, JVC DVHS units, or the one-off Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U DVHS. Prices on these run the gamut depending on supply and demand week to week. Given the age of the JVC SVHS units, and the inflated prices they sell for, I don't think they are cost-effective. If you can snag a mint one very cheaply, more power to you, enjoy it. But at current prices I think it makes far more sense to pick up a much newer DVHS model with the same TBC-DNR features. If you have a LOT of tapes to transfer, $375 or so for a new-in-box MGA 2000 or JVC 400 DVHS will be amortized pretty quickly. If you find a used one for $200 or so, even better. Paying $150-200 for an ancient second-hand JVC SVHS deck, with the possibility of another $85+ to repair/refurbish it, just doesn't make sense to me. I'm on a budget like most everyone else here, but for something this crucial I'll gladly pay $50 more for a much newer and more reliable DVHS than a ratty old SVHS.

The only drawback to DVHS is some models are known to be none-too-reliable. The initial JVCs with five digit model numbers are risky, stick to three digit models like the recent JVC 400. On the Mitsubishi side, avoid the model 1100 which does not have the TBC/DNR features: only the MGA 2000 has those.

[deuce8pro]

In reply to deuce8pro, yes I know the price on a new Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U has skyrocketed from the under $200 it was when I began recommending it a few months ago. Nonetheless if you don't insist on new-in-box, mint used ones consistently sell under $200 if you keep an eye peeled to look for them. I agree a properly-functioning top-line JVC SVHS is the digitizing standard we hold all recorders to, but JVC's SVHS units are getting rather old now and good used ones without mechanical problems are not all that easy to find anymore. The final run of 9911s was very cheaply made, and that was five years ago already. In contrast to others here, my own experience with JVC SVHS reliability has been 100% awful over the last 20 years. I find their newer DVHS units are significantly more reliable (except for the very first which had meltdown issues).

If you need a vcr with TBC/DNR to transfer your VHS to DVD, your choices are the older JVC SVHS units, JVC DVHS units, or the one-off Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U DVHS. Prices on these run the gamut depending on supply and demand week to week. Given the age of the JVC SVHS units, and the inflated prices they sell for, I don't think they are cost-effective. If you can snag a mint one very cheaply, more power to you, enjoy it. But at current prices I think it makes far more sense to pick up a much newer DVHS model with the same TBC-DNR features. If you have a LOT of tapes to transfer, $375 or so for a new-in-box MGA 2000 or JVC 400 DVHS will be amortized pretty quickly. If you find a used one for $200 or so, even better. Paying $150-200 for an ancient second-hand JVC SVHS deck, with the possibility of another $85+ to repair/refurbish it, just doesn't make sense to me. I'm on a budget like most everyone else here, but for something this crucial I'll gladly pay $50 more for a much newer and more reliable DVHS than a ratty old SVHS.

The only drawback to DVHS is some models are known to be none-too-reliable. The initial JVCs with five digit model numbers are risky, stick to three digit models like the recent JVC 400. On the Mitsubishi side, avoid the model 1100 which does not have the TBC/DNR features: only the MGA 2000 has those.

This is unaccurate. There have been lightly used and ive even seen a new still in the box JVC SVHS units on ebay.
They do come around. I dont understand why you wouldnt prefer one of these units over a newer unit as you said they are more cheaply made. More then likely they are as cheap as the 9911 and probably dont function as well as either the 9600 or 9800 model JVC SVHS's. Mark my words, if you find one on ebay that is lightly used, that is the best quality you are gonna get out of your vhs tapes. Ive not seen better quality. Cleaner, colorful, crisp video. So find one. I am not convinced about the DVHS units and they cost much more then the 9600 or 9800 model new.

I must also say that yes they dont always stabilize tapes well, so partnered with the ES10 you do get great results (although the ES10 doesnt correct skewing like its mentioned on this forum).
But not lets not forget, you must encode with a JVC DRM100. You even said so yourself, Orsetto, nothing beats the encode quality of that deck.

Im also skeptical about the DVHS format, who even buys DVHS tapes? I doubt anyone does.

I also wanted to add, it bugs me more people arent transferring their vhs on these decks, the quality is ideal for transferring to dvd.

[FulciLives]

I've been very happy with VHS to DVD using a Pioneer stand alone DVD recorder. Although Pioneer is a bit tricky to get these days they are still made and sold. That JVC DVD recorder is damn hard to find these days and it seems from all accounts to really be set more for 0.0 IRE BLACK LEVEL sources than 7.5 IRE BLACK LEVEL sources. The Pioneer units can do either.

When it comes to buying new Pioneer is really the only option. The JVC as I said is long gone and even the few good models Toshiba had are now long gone. Pioneer is gone in the USA but can be easily imported ... only thing lacking is a digital tuner but with $50 digital tuners becoming the norm now that's not as big an issue nor is it an issue with VHS to DVD.

As for the Mits ... I remember when you could buy one new for around $150 and almost did then ... wish now I did

- John "FulciLives" Coleman

[orsetto]

There have been lightly used and ive even seen a new still in the box JVC SVHS units on ebay.
They do come around. I dont understand why you wouldnt prefer one of these units over a newer unit as you said they are more cheaply made. More then likely they are as cheap as the 9911 and probably dont function as well as either the 9600 or 9800 model JVC SVHS's. Mark my words, if you find one on ebay that is lightly used, that is the best quality you are gonna get out of your vhs tapes. Ive not seen better quality. Cleaner, colorful, crisp video. So find one. I am not convinced about the DVHS units and they cost much more then the 9600 or 9800 model new.

Sigh. I try to be politically correct, because many of you here love your old JVC 9600 and 9800 SVHS decks more than you love your wives or girlfriends, and I want to respect your experience because it has been valid for you. MY experience has been exactly the opposite: I have been buying, hopelessly paying to repair, and dumping at a loss one top-line JVC VHS or SVHS after another since 1986. Every damn one of them, EVERY SINGLE ONE, blew chunks. Total destructive-to-tapes breakdown within 60 days of new purchase, year after year, model after model, forever. And they are never, ever repairable up to new spec whether in or out of warranty. I frigging *loathe* JVC SVHS vcrs, which why I was thrilled to death to discover the Mitsubishi 2000 DVHS with its dramatically better transport.

If you can find a mint JVC 9600 or 9800 and it works well for you, "vaya con dios": I'm happy for you. I wouldn't touch one myself. They seem solid and look like they're very well built: but so does a 1999 Lamborghini and you wouldn't want to deal with the breakdowns on that, either. Don't be fooled by appearances: some decks that look like tanks are really not very reliable at all (many JVCs, Panasonic AG-1980), and some decks that look like chintzy crap are really quite good and reliable (consumer Panasonics and Sharps of the 1990s). The recent DVHS decks from JVC and Mitsubishi may not have the apparent build quality of an older JVC 9600 but they are a much MUCH better bet on the second hand market. It took 25 years for JVC to finally make a VHS transport that doesn't self destruct, but you can only find it in their newest DVHS decks. The MGA 2000 is even more reliable. If you are in the market for optimized VHS/SVHS playback, and have a budget of $200 used or $400 new, going for a DVHS offers much better odds of a reliable deck. If you have less money to spend or don't mind a gamble, sure, go look for the "perfect" vintage SVHS JVC 9600/9800. In my experience they're an urban myth, but others here have had better luck. By recommending DVHS, I'm adding two or three really good playback alternatives to the very small pool of VCRs with TBC/DNR suited for DVD transfer use. Remember that for DVHS to work at all, it had to have very refined transport and electronics: much more so than SVHS. As a result they can be superior playback decks for regular VHS and SVHS. Don't feel stressed that "only a JVC 9800 or Panasonic 1980 will do".

(And unless you get a "can't-lose" price, be sure you have a return privilege on ANY used VCR purchase.)

[mrwhitethc]

I have both the Mitsubishi HD2000u and the JVC DH4000U and from some limited tests I've run it seems the Mitsubishi is slightly clearer. However when I get ripples in the tape or horizontal lines that travel vertically across the picture the seem slightly less apparent on the JVC. Right now I have both decks, an i.den ivt-7, panasonic dmr-es10, vidicraft detailer II, elite video bvp-4 and jvc dr-m100. For the test setup I used either deck, the bvp-4 and the jvc dr-m100. The tapes I'm working with are possible multi-generational, from a regular to noisy cable tv source. I was able to pick up each deck for $200 and am having a really hard time deciding if I should keep both or return the JVC. I've heard nothing but good things about both, especially the JVC R3 feature, so I was really hoping they both would be about equal so I could have a backup deck. But it seems the Mitsubishi edges out the JVC in keeping the most picture quality with getting rid of the majority of the noise. Anyone have anything I could try with the JVC to make it any better? I was running it in EDIT mode and had all other features on as they didn't seem to increase or decrease the picture quality when off.

[edDV]

The DVHS machines don't output DV format over IEEE-1394 although some accept a camcorder DV input. They output a MPeg2_TS stream similar to a cable box. For a PC you would capture with CapDVHS. I forget the name of the Mac program. Google DVHS IEEE-1394 and Mac.

[orsetto]

It has only been recently discovered/verified that most if not all USA-spec JVC DVHS models do NOT actually contain the TBC which was standard on the older JVC SVHS machines. They do have the R3 filters and noise reduction, which is so good they pretty much perform on par with the older TBC-equipped units. Probably in 90% of all VHS transfer situations you would never notice the missing TBC on the JVC DVHS, which kind of validates the importance of good noise reduction above anything. But in a few rare cases, the presence of a TBC may boost the image processing enough to make it look a tad sharper. This would explain mrwhitethc noticing subtle differences between his JVC and Mitsubishi DVHS decks: the Mitsubishi has the TBC, the JVC doesn't.

Having worked closely with both machines (albeit more heavily with the Mitsu), I have difficulty telling them apart: the results are very very similar. Bear in mind the TBC and DNR are linked in the Mitsu and cannot be used independently: the TBC is always on if DNR is on, which can sometimes create issues if it isn't needed (in those special cases I simply turn them off, the Mitsu has very clean chroma/luma presentation even with its filters turned off). If you have doubts about some of your more difficult tapes, and haven't yet picked up a DVHS, you might want to opt for the Mitsu over the JVC if only to get its TBC as additional insurance. But honestly I think both units perform too close to call a winner. I prefer the operational feel of the Mitsu myself, otherwise both are great.

[mrwhitethc]

orsetto, do you have any suggestions on filter chain and settings with the hardware? Kind of like what duece8pro mentioned:

SVHS player TBC/DNR TURNED ON (unless picture jitters too much) > svideo out > some form of time based corrector such as the Panasonic es10 with both input and output black levels set to darker and DNR turned on > s-video out > a minidv or digital8 camera with tbc and dnr (audio chords from vcr plugged directly into camera)> firewire > JVC DRM100 or any JVC dvd recorder

Which in my case would be something like Mitsubishi DVHS TBC On > IVT-7 TBC > Panasonic ES10 (do I need this for black level setting, anything else?) > BVP-4 > JVC DR-M100

I'm kind of confused about the Panasonic ES10 and what settings I need to set and is there anything to set on the JVC DR-M100 to make sure the filters are on or are they on always on kind of thing? I always capture in 2 hour mode on the JVC.

[orsetto]

When I began using the MGA2000 and JVC9911 myself, it was particularly to solve problems I had transferring certain material to my JVC DRM100 and DR-MV5 recorders. Many of my VHS tapes recorded from analog cable TV have an odd "hidden" signal contamination that the DRM100 misinterprets and encodes as massive distortion. I discovered the only thing that would fix this for the DRM100 was a VCR with built-in TBC/DNR. Unfortunately the noise filters at the analog inputs of the JVC DRM100 are not adjustable and cannot be switched off. When combined with the noise reduction in the MGA or JVC vcrs it often causes "too much of a good thing", and the resulting DVDs come out watchable but way too soft. There was no way around this for me other than to switch DVD recorders for certain tapes.

The hardware chain you mention seems excessive to me, if you are trying to follow deuce8pro's advice I would suggest you perhaps PM him for clarification before continuing a dialog here. He has a very specific purpose for each item which I'm sure he'd be happy to explain. I have not strung together *all* those items at any given time myself because I do not have the patience: I cannot really advise you there. In vague summary, the JVC dvd recorders are set to record deepest black tones "too light", the inclusion of the Panasonic ES10 as a signal processor is meant to compensate. The Panny has certain stabilizing qualities that some find indispensible, also you can adjust its output so it feeds a "darker" signal to the JVC. I do understand that much, I just didn't feel it worth the trouble and moved out of JVC recorders for that reason (I have massive numbers of tapes to transfer and dwindling amounts of time to do it). What I don't follow is why you're ALSO using both an IVT-7 TBC *and* the TBC circuits of a camcorder in the chain: I really thinks thats too much processing, but again having never gone that far I can't advise from experience. deuce8pro usually monitors this type of thread and will likely pitch in shortly to offer more info from his perspective, otherwise as I said you might try sending him a private message.

I have tried several iDen IVT7 TBCs and had trouble with them, they tended to be worn out and hard to adjust for proper signal. They also soften the image considerably if combined with a TBC/DNR vcr and a JVC DRM100. Although I have now moved away from using the DRM100, I agree its an excellent recorder if used properly. The key is to match appropriate hardware with it depending on the tape: since you cannot turn off its input DNR filters, placing too many additional TBC or DNR processors in front of it can really over-soften the resulting DVD transfer. It is very unlikely you would need more in your chain than Mitsubishi DVHS with TBC/DNR ON and picture control set to NORM (not auto)> Panasonic ES10 IRE adjusted>JVC DRM100. Any additional TBC or camcorder would degrade the image and should not be used unless specific circumstances call for a compromise. deuce8pro would be more knowledgeable on what you should do for the DRM100 in those cases.

[mrwhitethc]

Thank you for all the info, I really only bought the i.den IVT-7 for transferring any of my movies on VHS that have yet to make it off to DVD. I never could find a Datavideo at a reasonable price and I scored the i.den for cheap, and I've gotten it to be transparent as far as color. Mostly though all the transfer I am making come from EP recorded tapes from cable tv and some are multigenerational. I understand everything except correct setup of the ES10 for the MGA 2000 to the DRM100 with regard to the darken/lighter input and output. Do you happen to know the best way to clean the MGA 2000 or should I take it to a local repair shop, I didn't see anything on Mitsubishi's website close by.

[orsetto]

If you managed to get the iDen working transparently I agree it can make a good M*vision filter for old tapes, assuming you get a very cheap price. I chose to go with a tiny cheap generic CP filter instead: easier for me to integrate and swap around the equipment rack.

So far I haven't has a problem with head clogging in my Mitsubishi HS-HS2000U, but if I ever have one I would first try a wet head cleaning tape: these are still available from Radio Shack and usually work (just be sure to buy the wet system which comes with a small bottle of cleaning fluid). If you're in a hurry and its late at night, smaller clogs can sometimes be cleaned off the heads by putting in a freshly-recorded brand-new tape and then locking it into high speed search, all the way to the end of the tape, then do reverse search for perhaps 30 seconds. Or, just play a new blank tape all the way to the end at normal play speed and let the machine auto-rewind when it gets to the end. (A new blank tape has cleaning qualities that somehow knock the gunk off the spinning video heads.) Another thing to try is load and eject several tapes over and over again, say ten tapes in ten minutes (don't play them: just put them in, listen for them to finish loading, eject, then put in another). This activates the internal automatic head cleaning roller, which spins against the heads each time you eject a tape. If you still have a problem, any reputable VCR repairman can open the unit and clean the heads. You can even do it yourself if you're VERY careful: the top cabinet cover comes off easily by removing the two screws on either side. Pick up a cleaning kit with chamois swabs and fluid (also at Radio Shack), dampen a swab tip with the fluid, and GENTLY pass the swab across each of the six cylinder headgaps. Do not apply any pressure at all, and do not use a regular cotton Q-tip: you could damage the heads.

[themaster1]

If that can help, this is how i now deal with lp tapes with my jvc svhs deck:
image control: copy (edit) mode
tbc/dnr: off
digital 3R: on

My goal being to capture as much detail as possible and even if the chroma noise reduction filtering from the vcr might be benefical, i don't enable this option.

Then i work with vdub filters

Here are a couple of pictures (1, 2 ** 01, 02, 03) so you can have an idea.

[deuce8pro]

If that can help, this is how i now deal with lp tapes with my jvc svhs deck:
image control: copy (edit) mode
tbc/dnr: off
digital 3R: on

My goal being to capture as much detail as possible and even if the chroma noise reduction filtering from the vcr might be benefical, i don't enable this option.

Then i work with vdub filters

Here are a couple of pictures (1, 2 ** 01, 02, 03) so you can have an idea.

I cant understand why someone would invest $200/300+ for a deck just to put it in "EDIT" mode.
Bypassing the filters I think is a waste of money. I think that it should always be set to NORM
with either the tbc/dnr turned ON or OFF depending on what looks better.
I like to partner it with the Panasonic ES10. I read the reviews here of how good it performs as far as its TBC/Frame synchronization and that it was suppose to fix the flagging issue, well it doesnt. But it does a fairly good job with helping the jitter issue. It doesnt correct all of it but it helps and you need that.

I think its unnecessary to use the Digital r3. Again, more noise when the purpose is to clean up the picture.

I think we tend to blame the equipment but not
the tape. It could be a certain brand of tape that just doesnt hold up all these years and crappy recorded.

I use my Digital8 camera's pass through filters to clean up the picture even more and it does great.
I think it even helps clean up some of the mess the JVC leaves with the tbc is turned off.

I do agree with Orsetto that the chain I use is "excessive" thats because it takes excessive filters to clean up these vhs tapes. Even though every expert will agree it might be too much but they also would like a more noiser picture.

That aside, you must always send a correct black to the JVC drm100. Thats with in the menu of the ES10 you set both input and output black levels to "darker". and the only mistake I made in my chain is saying I turn the DNR in the ES10 to ON. I meant the Line in NR.

[deuce8pro]

Also as far as actual cleaning of the tape heads. Before you go to transfer 5 or 6 tapes, about ten hours worth. You wanna open up the vcr and not clean the head but the tape guides. Just lightly rub them with whatever you like to use with a drop or two at the most of the rubbing alcohol and get off any dirt or what not. You might not get a speck or anything of dirt and thats good. You wanna do that after every ten hours of use.

But if its been a year or six months or so since you've cleaned the head, then go for it. But the guides should be cleaned almost constantly.

[mrwhitethc]

That's for all the great info, to be clear on the ES10 connection both the in and out set to darker and set the Line In NR to ON, correct? And as an aside I use all hardware instead of software because I never finish the job with software, I'll tweak settings for months and months. With hardware I take about 30 minutes per tape to fix the color, play with the contrast and see what has the best picture between the TBC, Edit Mode and R3 Filter combos then I hit record and leave it. I'm thinking the MGA 2000 needs to be cleaned if only because I've run through about 6 tapes myself, about 36 hours worth, and I know the previous owner had used it about 30 to 40 hours. I'll practice on an old 2 head Sony VCR first, it eats tapes so it'll make a good sacrifice. I've read about the non-cotton swabs and such but for cleaning fluid I've heard everything from 90%+ alcohol, denatured alcohol to specialty fluid, any ideas on best to use? Also I know the heads only spin one way so do you pass the swab horizontally across the heads or vertically?

[deuce8pro]

That's for all the great info, to be clear on the ES10 connection both the in and out set to darker and set the Line In NR to ON, correct? And as an aside I use all hardware instead of software because I never finish the job with software, I'll tweak settings for months and months. With hardware I take about 30 minutes per tape to fix the color, play with the contrast and see what has the best picture between the TBC, Edit Mode and R3 Filter combos then I hit record and leave it. I'm thinking the MGA 2000 needs to be cleaned if only because I've run through about 6 tapes myself, about 36 hours worth, and I know the previous owner had used it about 30 to 40 hours. I'll practice on an old 2 head Sony VCR first, it eats tapes so it'll make a good sacrifice. I've read about the non-cotton swabs and such but for cleaning fluid I've heard everything from 90%+ alcohol, denatured alcohol to specialty fluid, any ideas on best to use? Also I know the heads only spin one way so do you pass the swab horizontally across the heads or vertically?

Cant answer you about the non-cotton swabs but with turning the Line in NR on. Thats my preference but you can always experiment with turning it on and off or to automatic to see what results you think look the best.
And yes, both input and output set to DARKER on the ES10 in pass through to the DRM-100.

[mrwhitethc]

Thank you very much deuce8pro, you've been very helpful.