Your opinions please

[gymnastgirl]

I want to convert VHS to DVD and am deciding between capturing AVI with an (AIW9600XT cap card and TMPGEnc Plus or Virtualdub or Ulead 10 or MMC 4.6) OR a (Panasonic DMR-ES35V or Toshiba RD-XS34). Keeping in mind that I do not care that the recorders would be faster and easier (I want details, details details…) I want to be able to see all 3 colors in my eyes and how they interweave, in close up shots. I do not want a soft (filtered?) image that would blur any lines. Would you pick an AVI cap card or use the problematic recorders to record as lossless as possible? Thanks

[edDV]

VHS doesn't have much detail (3Mhz luminance max, 500Khz color components). VHS does have lots of noise ~38dB at best and lots of time base instability.

Most quality issues depend on the VCR player (tracking and signal flow), time base correction and levels setting. All this happens before the capture device.

PC vs. DVD recorder capture quailty varies device to device but for VHS the quality hurdle is low. More important is how the capture device handles jittery, noisy VHS playback. Test the devices you have and use the best in your eyes.

[thecoalman]

I want to be able to see all 3 colors in my eyes and how they interweave, in close up shots.

Can you see that now when you play the tape from a VCR to a TV? To get such details from a VHS tape they would have to be there to begin with. Essentially the frame would have to be focused on about half your face as a rough guesstimate.

[lordsmurf]

Your biggest enemy with VHS is chroma noise and grain.

I'm only aware of two effective methods to remove chroma noise, and that is either (1) using an LSI chipset DVD recorder, or (2) using the VirtualDub Chroma Noise Removal filter. The LSI is far more effective and precise than the vdub filter, and the LSI has no side effects, unlike the vdub filter (temporal noise trails).

What I would suggest is to get a JVC DR-M100S DVD recorder, and then use it to capture XP mode video (about 7000-8000 mb/s VBR). Then take that video into VirtualDub and correct the video even more, using various color filters. You could also chain that into TMPGEnc for more filters. And if you don't like TMPGEnc (like me), then you can chain that into MainConcept.

Also don't forget the analog hardware side, with a JVC S-VHS VCR, a TBC, proc amp, etc.

If you want to see RGB, you can always grab a still from VirtualDub, then pull it into Photoshop and view the RGB channels individually.

[gymnastgirl]

Thanks guys! I can barely see the detail when everything is still enough and there is enough light so that is one reason why I want to convert as lossless as possible. I do not know what RGB is. What proc amps do you use besides the Elite BVP4 and SignVideo DR-1000 lordsmurf?

[davideck]

I do not want a soft (filtered?) image that would blur any lines.

IMO, the best way to preserve detail is to use a good VCR and TBC (like your AG-1980P), capture at 720x480 (1 or 2 hour mode) and minimize additional filtering. Try turning OFF any Noise Reduction to see if it makes things better or worse. The Sharpness Control on the 1980P may also help.

Here are some similar discussions;

https://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?p=1669770
https://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=323110

[gshelley61]

Converting VHS to DVD depends on what you are starting with. Are these tapes original, first generation recordings... or are they copies (or perhaps copies of copies)? Are they in SP speed or LP? How do they look? Are they decent looking videos, or are they grainy and washed out? Do they have excessive edge ghosting from over-sharpening during the dubbing process? Are these tapes of handheld camcorder footage?

If you are starting with a very well made and relatively good looking VHS tape, then you may be able to simply play back the tape on a high quality VCR and run the signal directly into a good DVD recorder with no additional processing necessary.

For rough looking tapes, things get more complicated as you try to overcome chroma noise, grain, streaks, under/oversaturated color, poor white balance (hue), bad lighting, too little or too much contrast, incorrect black levels, false MV, frame jitter, flagging... you name it.

I have a variety of equipment I use in different combinations depending on the specific transfer situation. My general philosophy is to start with the highest quality source signal possible and use minimal or no additional processing unless it is really necessary.

For good VHS tapes that have a pretty nice picture, I simply play them in my JVC SR-W5U with the TBC/DNR turned on, s-video output run through my SignVideo DR-1000 Image Enhancer (I usually add a bit of mild detail and sharpness to the picture), then straight to the Toshiba RD-XS34 (input video noise reduction Off or On depending on the specific tape... ON with the Toshiba is mild and helps reduce chroma noise a bit more)

For tapes that are in need of help, I will employ the use of my SignVideo Proc Amp to adjust color, black level, white level, etc. I may also use my other S-VHS deck (the JVC BR-378U) instead of the SR-W5U because it has built in white balance, color saturation and variable softness/sharpness that I can use to further adjust really poor tapes. It doesn't have the TBC/DNR filters, but I can use the On or Enhanced input video noise filter setting on the Toshiba RD-XS34 to deal with that.

So, I guess what I am saying is that you need to start by determining what the picture quality of your tapes are... and what type of VCR will get the most out of them for you. In general, the JVC S-VHS machines with DigiPure TBC/DNR are hard to beat for VHS play back duty. They do a great job of producing a stable, relatively noise-free picture to start with.

The Toshiba RD-XS34 and RD-XS35 produce the sharpest, most detailed DVD's of any machine I have owned or tested. Plus, they have a large number of features and functions that make them great for transfer work.

I personally think the world of SignVideo processors, especially the DR-1000 Image Enhancer and the SignVideo Proc Amp. They are practically transparent (that is, they do not degrade the video image as it passes through) and are powerful enough for the vast majority of adjustment duties. The DR-1000 is simply the best video image enhancer (detailer, sharpener) that you can buy.

[vhelp]

Evening gymnastgirl,

Well, my vote goes with the simiplicity of the DVD Recorder way.

I won't duplicate whatever everone else mentioned here. But I also like the
suggestion of the Toshiba RD-SX34, might be a good selection, based on popular
discussions. And, there's also the JVC DR-M100S, too.. another popular
brand/model.

It would be helpful to post a few captured AVI clips of your tapes.
And if you get a dvd recorder, a few samples from the recorded tapes
would be nice, also. This way, we can get an idea of the level of
issue(s) your source containes and we might be able to assist you
further.

YouTube is not a good idea, because they re-compress what you upload.
So things (your video) becomes worse.

-vhelp 4234

[lordsmurf]

Oh yeah, duh, JVC S-VHS VCR TBCs can also take out a good bit of chroma noise too. How did I forget that?