8mm to dvd - projector problem...

[Michael Coates]

well not so much of a problem, more just me not being able to use it - can anyone point me in the right direction so i can learn how to use my new projector ok? i can't seem to get the film in at all and it's driving me mad.



CINEREX 8MM CINE PROJECTOR MODEL 707


this is the model projector i have but i've no idea how to use it hell, i don't even know which side the film is meant to go in!

please help!

[thecoalman]

<enters time machine> I remember my dad loading up the old projector. If I remeber correctly the feed reel goes on the front, I'm pretty sure you just turn it on and feed the film into the receiving hole. once some comes out the end attach it to the other reel. I can also remember him yelling about leaving the light light on.... keep that in mind it will melt the film.

[vhelp]

yeah, you see that orange button/lever, there appears to be what
looks like an "arm" that's suppose to swing up and over toward front
of unit. Maybe that orange is the lever to press and rlease arm.

there is where you put an empy real. Or is it the full real, and
the empy one is suppose to go on end of unit (as in pic above)

-vhelp 3438

[mikel]

Yup yup,
Basically it's ...swing up the supply arm....load the film reel.
Lock it on to the spindle if there is a small movable tab...or the reel will fall off when it starts going.
The small sprocket holes will ALWAYS be on the side closest to the operator. ..and the film should feed off the bottom of the reel.

It looks like an auto-threading unit. It also looks like there are three forward positions on the motor knob (one for only the motor & 2 for lamp brightness?)

Switch to motor on (1st click forward)
(Some machines have a "threading" position, that needs to be set...
if so, it might be the orange part.)

...feed film into a slit in the orange part above the lens.

It should chug away untill the film reappears from a slot below the take-up reel. ...when about 6 or 8 inches have emerged...switch motor off.
Thread that end of the film into the center of the take-up reel if there is a small slot.

Switch the main knob to motor + lamp (2 clicks or 3 ckicks forward) and focus picture. (usually a small knob or a twist of the lens itself)

When the film has finished, and is totally wound up on the take-up reel switch motor off & thread the loose end back onto the supply reel.

Sometimes there is a specific "rewind" button or knob...if not,
there will be a "reverse" position on the motor knob.

When the film is back on the suppply reel...turn motor off.
.... you are ready for the next reel.

ps. What is the switch right above the CINEREX label?

Hope this helps... good luck
mikel

[martin3361]

Are you by any chance will be using it to
dump those 8mm to your comp ?
b/c if so i would like to find out what will u be using to do so

Thanks

[Michael Coates]

dear one and all - thank you so much for the help - i got it working perfectly and am very happy with the results so far - the picture seems to be in focus though there is a little blur around the edges that i can't get rid of - not a problem i don't think. basically you need to feed the reel in the frontt, hold the orange button down and then it feeds it through easily when you click it on! great stuff!

i am now gonna try filming the movies with my mini dv cam so i can then dump onto my pc - just gonna go off to look for tips!

[vhelp]

The one think you have to watch out for in this attempt, is the
interlace you will introduce. I don't know what your fps is for
this setup. But, if you use your dv cam to shoot footage, no
matter what your fps is, as long as your MM video has any form
of movement (ie, person walking; handing moving; etc) that frame
will show up as interlace in the final DV avi file

DV cams are great for this, but they will introduce the interlace
issue, even though your source is progressive. I found this out
with my few experiments and my DV cam vs. my (new) cheap $30 USB cam
video recorder, by Labtec. I'll refer to it as the UCAM, ok ?

The ucam produces progressive video frames. But, the only hardest
part to all this w/ a ucam, is with the proper setting up of the
lighting source, and eliminating any external lights that will
phase the video quality. A container is more probable in the
quality department.

Another thing (or tip) here is..

using a given ucam, you usually do better w/out the included
capture software. I found AVI_IO does an even superb job at
capturing video, using the cam's driver. During the preview,
the video is jerky, but I looked beyond it, and said to myself,
"what if I pressed RECORD anyways.. would I get jerky movements ?"
Well, the short story.., NO. It's smooth. Something to do with
the buffering "internally" to AVI_IO vs. the preview onscreen.
I was stunned to find I could capture 640 x 480 resolution video
w/ this usb cam, and it would all be smooth at 29.970 fps. I had
truly didn't believe it would work, till I took the chance, and went
against the grain (what my eyes were seeing and telling me) and I met
up with success.

So, once you have your ucam lighting setup, and flat on a stable
platform, (not on a tripod, as they tend to vibrate) you can begin
to experiment all kinds of scenarios for capturing your MM film in
progressive frames

So, I guess what I am saying here is, don't be afraid to try
experiments. They may prove successful.

-vhelp 3462

[edDV]

Big Warning ! Baby your bulb.

Avoid excessive heat cool cycles. Make sure the fan is working.
Limit use to serious captures. Capture everything in one go, edit later.

Replacement bulbs could cost >$60 and have a short life.
They may not be available at all.

Treat the bulb like gold.