Upgrade Questions

[usually_quiet]

I pretty much like the design of the Haf 912 but these are some of the things I would like and I can't tell if this design does that:

1. I want an internal card reader so I'm wondering where it will be mounted ideally it would be located in the center or higher for easy access. Does it look like it would mount in the 4th 5.25" slot down from the top?

2. Does this have a led on/off so I can tell if it's on?

3. It looks like it comes with a front and rear mounted 120mm fan is the front one a LED lighted one which I would prefer?

4. Since the 912 isn't painted inside (wish it was) would a front mounted LED fan show or expose the unpainted insides?

5. I would prefer toolless mounting does it look like the top optical slot is showing it but not the others?

6. It looks like the hard drives use drive rails so is this sort of toolless mounting?

7. How does the front cover come off is it easily removed I'm always afraid of breaking tabs?



Thanks for the info on buying parts!

5. A set of tool-less mounting parts for only one 5 1/4-inch drive are included with the case, but you may be able to order more sets from the Cooler Master Store (at the manufacturer's website).

6. The HDD rails use a tool-less mounting system with pins that fit into matching holes on the drive. The back end of the rail compresses once inserted in its slot in the drive cage to hold the drive in place. Since they aren't securely attached to the drive using screws, the rails have to be held in place by hand while sliding a drive in or out of its slot in the drive cage.

7. This Newegg video shows the reviewer taking off the front bezel and drive bay covers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9cRzKYfx-A

I can't add anything to the answers you received to the other questions.

[jagabo]

7. This Newegg video shows the reviewer taking off the front bezel and drive bay covers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9cRzKYfx-A

So you don't have to hunt for it: at 7 minutes and 30 seconds.

[mccoady]

Yes I believe that has answered all my questions on the Haf 912 and it does look like you can buy additional latches for the optical drive bay which is great. I do prefer some of the thing on the Haf 922 better like the snap-in hard drive trays, a front fan ON/Off LED switch, and more room inside to hide cables but I'll have to decide if it's worth the extra money... I don't see where you can buy the snap-in hard drive trays separately.

This has become a 101 computer building class for me and I keep thinking of more things to ask so if you tire of my questions feel free to quit posting.

Motherboards: I've noticed quite a few Mobo's have only have one PCI Express 2.0x16 slot (Gigabyte Mobo's have multiple) but if I planned on never using more than one video card is there any reason to have more than one slot... I believe the Mobo I have now has 3 slots buts I've never used more than one?

I've also noticed most Mobo's have four 2.0 USB ports and two 3.0 USB ports since I thought the latter were backward compatible why don't they just use all 3.0 USB ports?

If there came a time I wanted to use a separate video card instead of the integrated HD 3000 do you just install the new card and it will automatically override the HD 3000?

[aedipuss]

one pci16x2.0 slot is enough.

right now it's probably just a cost factor that keeps usb 2.0 ports around. the chips and connectors are much cheaper than 3.0 units.

you would insert the card in the slot, boot into the bios and turn off the onboard video and set the card as first video device. or something quite similar depending on the motherboard bios.

[TBoneit]

the x16 can also be used as a x1 PCIe slot. That's where my USB3 card is plugged in.

[mccoady]

I thought I'd post back to show you what I've bought for my build next month:

Cooler Master 912 Advanced
Intel i5-2500K
AsRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3
Seasonic S12II 520 Bronze
Corsair Vengeance 8GB
Western Digital Cavier Black (WD1002Faex 1TB)
Asus DRW-24B1ST
AFT XM5U Card Reader

I will also be moving my LG WH12LS30 Blu-ray plus my WD Cavier Black 500GB and 750GB drives from my old computer.

I also have a couple of more questions:

1. I bought the i5-2500 with the idea it gave me the option to Overclock if I ever wanted to but that's not in my plans for now and possibly maybe never. I had originally thought I'd go ahead and pick up a CPU cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099 but do you think it's really necessary should I just wait until I ever need one?

2. I was going to try to use my Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade disks (upgraded from XP on old computer) for my new build but I don't if this will work until I do the install or if Microsoft will let me if I tell them my Mobo died. My other option would be to buy this today with a $20 off coupon http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL112511..._-32116986-L0K Should I take the chance I will be able to install the Upgrade Disks on my new computer?

The above coincides with my next question would my old computer be worth much if I installed an extra hard drive (maybe 250GB) I had laying around and let my Windows 7 Upgrade disks go with it and listed it on Craig's list? If so what would it be worth?

[usually_quiet]

1. Since you plan on doing a lot of encoding, installing an aftermarket cooler couldn't hurt because CPU usage can be intense and encoding takes a long time.

2. It is hard to say if Microsoft will accept your explanation. Since you are replacing both the motherboard and CPU, they may not. I would buy a new license in your place, particularly if I planned to re-sell or donate my old PC. I think more buyers will be interested in a used PC that includes installation discs for both Windows XP and Windows 7.

I have never sold a used PC so I have no idea what kind of price it might sell for.

[mccoady]

1. Since you plan on doing a lot of encoding, installing an aftermarket cooler couldn't hurt because CPU usage can be intense and encoding takes a long time.

You may be right I would like to find a deal on the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo but no one is discounting it maybe something will pop up.

2. It is hard to say if Microsoft will accept your explanation. Since you are replacing both the motherboard and CPU, they may not. I would buy a new license in your place, particularly if I planned to re-sell or donate my old PC. I think more buyers will be interested in a used PC that includes installation discs for both Windows XP and Windows 7.
.

Do you think $80 is about the best deal I can expect to find on Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-Bit OEM?

[usually_quiet]

2. It is hard to say if Microsoft will accept your explanation. Since you are replacing both the motherboard and CPU, they may not. I would buy a new license in your place, particularly if I planned to re-sell or donate my old PC. I think more buyers will be interested in a used PC that includes installation discs for both Windows XP and Windows 7.
.

Do you think $80 is about the best deal I will find on Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-Bit OEM?

It is a good price. I have never seen a Windows 7 Home Premium OEM license priced that low.

[jagabo]

Yes, $80 is the lowest I've seen that for. I think the best I've seen is about $90. Or the upgrade 3-pack for about $120.

[mccoady]

Thanks I ordered it a few minutes ago! I really hadn't planned on buying a new copy of Windows but at least now I won't have to worry about whether my upgrade version was going to work.

[mccoady]

As I'm getting closer to my build I have a question or two do most of you install the Drivers, Utilities, and BIOS from the included install disk or do you download from the MOBO's website?

If the answer is to download the latest BIOS http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3&o=BIOS what else should be downloaded and installed http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3&o=Win764 ? Besides the BIOS having a couple of options the rest of the installations are done within Windows correct?

I've been reading about KVM switches in case I decide to keep my old computer but I'm a little confused on whether or not you can use one to connect two Windows 7 computers (32-bit & 64-bit)... I would want to share monitor, mouse, keyboard, and sound. Is this possible and if so how expensive?

[TBoneit]

I look at the Bios history and decide from that. If all it is is CPU support and the current CPU is already supported I don't bother. If it is some bug fix, then I have to see what it is.

Discs vs Downloads.... Latest should be better. Download and Burn a CD in case they are needed for a re-install is my policy.

[jagabo]

BIOS updates are a bit risky. If something goes wrong you may be stuck with a dead motherboard.

[mccoady]

I started putting the computer together and we can't get it to boot, it keeps giving me and error code on the Dr. Debug that says b2 error code. I looked it up in the manual and it says legacy option rom initialization..... I need help if anybody has any suggestions

Also do you think that this ram and mobo is compatible? I looked it up on the asrock website and couldn't find the exact ram that I was using, I guess its possible that it isn't compatible?...

MB ASROCK|Z68 EXTREME3 GEN3
1155

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

CPU INTEL|CORE I5 2500K 3.3G 6M R

[aedipuss]

you can't get it to post or boot? start at the minimum, m.b., cpu, ram, and video. can you get to post and enter the bios setup?

[mccoady]

My nephew who is actually doing my build left for the evening he got a little frustrated because he's never run into this before. We're doing it at my mom's place so I don't currently have the computer but we plan on trying again tomorrow if we can get some forum help. I emailed AsRock technical support but got no answer.

Here's what it is doing when we power it up all LEDs and fans runs just like it should but we get nothing on the monitor screen so if we're in the bios we wouldn't be able to tell but we get the Dr Debug error code b2 from the Motherboard led readout.

I plan on using the integrated HD Graphics 3000 but someone told me here I would have to enable it in the bios which I can't see or get to.

I bought the ram for actually another AsRock MOBO the one jagabo was using but decided on another one after I had already bought the ram. A guy on another forum said it would still would but now I'm wondering if it could be the problem. Here's there capability list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3

[jagabo]

Try moving the RAM to the other pair of slots. Make sure you're using the right pair of slots (on some motherboard the RAM pair up next to each other, on others they're interleaved.

[mccoady]

My nephew tried every configuration of RAM slots making sure to use the paired slots plus tried just using one stick of RAM but nothing worked we can't get rid of b2 error code or a display on monitor.

Would it be worth ordering some different RAM and this time make sure it's on AsRock's compatability list?

[jagabo]

As you surmise, it may just be a RAM problem. If you scavenge memory from another computer, try that, at least as a test.

Or maybe the motherboard needs a BIOS update to work with your model CPU. Unfortunately, you need a working CPU to perform the update.

One more thing to try: reset the CMOS memory using the jumper on the motherboard (or on some motherboards you have to remove the battery).

[mccoady]

Can I put in any memory to test it or does it specifically have to be DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)?

Can you recommend a 2X4 from this list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3 ?

We did reset the CMOS memory there is a "clear CMOS switch". Manual http://www.asrock.com/mb/manual.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3

[jagabo]

Can I put in any memory to test it or does it specifically have to be DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)?

Pretty much any 240 pin DDR3 memory should work.

Can you recommend a 2X4 from this list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3 ?

Basically, the faster the memory the more you have to pay. But performance doesn't increase much once you get beyond 1600 MHz. We're talking about ~1 percent faster with the fastest memory (in real world applications).

We did reset the CMOS memory there is a "clear CMOS switch". Manual http://www.asrock.com/mb/manual.us.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3

So much for that idea!

[mccoady]

Ok my RAM in my old computer is DDR2 so that won't work then maybe my nephew has some DDR3.

Looking at the AsRock compatability chart I'm not finding any 2X4 RAM at newegg that is compatible any suggestions?

[mccoady]

Since I'm not knowledgeable enough to know what to do next after getting the Dr Debug b2 error which has to do with "Legacy Option ROM Initialization" I guess I will order some more RAM and hope it doesn't turn out to be a bad MOBO.

Can someone help me pick out some 2X4 RAM from newegg that's compatible from this AsRock list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3 I don't want to end up ordering the wrong thing?

Was Jagabo saying that I can use 1600, 1800, 1866, 2000, etc. it doesn't make a difference?

[jagabo]

Can someone help me pick out some 2X4 RAM from newegg that's compatible from this AsRock list http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory.asp?Model=Z68%20Extreme3%20Gen3 I don't want to end up ordering the wrong thing?

In theory, all of them should work. I don't have enough practical experience (I don't build computers for a living) to say which brands and models are the most reliable.

Was Jagabo saying that I can use 1600, 1800, 1866, 2000, etc. it doesn't make a difference?

Faster memory... well... runs faster. But beyond 1600 MHz there's little difference in speed for real world applications. Only software written specifically to test memory speed really sees a difference.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i7-870-1156,2482.html
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4503/sandy-bridge-memory-scaling-choosing-the-best-ddr3

Note that latency plays a part as well as the streaming speed. Generally, lower latency is better.

The Intel Z68 chipset only officially supports 1066, 1333, and 1600 MHz. Faster than that are overclocks.

Our local Fry's has 8 GB (2x 4 GB) 1333 MHz Kingston sticks for $20 (after mail-in rebate) today.

[mccoady]

Well according to the ASRock memory compatibilty list if I want to stay with 1600 MHz and major brands these are what I have to choose from and I was having a hard time finding any of these in a 2X4 at newegg:

A-Data AX3U1600GC4G9
A-Data AX3U1600GC4G9-DG2
G.Skill F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH
G.Skill F3-12800CL7Q-16GBXH
G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2
G.Skill F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL
Kingston KHX1600C9D3K3/12GX(XMP)
Kingston KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX

Today we tried a stick of DDR3 RAM from my mom's computer with my build and nothing changed but I suppose it could have been incompatible too.

Before I do anything else I think I will call a local computer store and see what they would charge me to check out my build and maybe they can figure it out if we're doing something wrong or can let me know if I have a bad MOBO.

While I love the price and features of the ASRock MOBO if I have to end up sending it back I think it would be wise for me to buy a ASUS board so if I had any future problems I could at least call tech support which ASRock doesn't seem to provide.

[jagabo]

It sounds like your nephew knows what he is doing but just for completeness...

I don't really think memory is the problem. Especially now that you've tried some other sticks. I would take the motherboard out of the case and set it on a block of wood or cardboard. Remove everything you don't need. Leave just the CPU+cooler, RAM, monitor, keyboard, and power switch attached. Power up and see if you can get the BIOS/UEFI (in a pinch you can use a screwdriver to quickly short the power switch pins on the motherboard, just be careful not to short the wrong pins).

Check the case -- sometimes there's a standoff in a location where there's no screw hole in the motherboard. It can create a short circuit if it's touching pins on the back of the motherboard. Remove that standoff if you find one. You are using standoffs, right? I've seen a few people screw the motherboard directly to the metal case.

When in the case, make sure you have all the power connectors connected to the motherboard. All 24 pins of the main power connector and the 4 or 8 pins of the aux power connector. When using an add-on graphics card make sure the aux power connector are connected to the PSU.

[aedipuss]

a b2 error code doesn't have anything to do with ram. legacy roms are in devices in slots or connected to the computer like usb mice keyboards printers etc.

disconnect all usb devices and remove all cards. use a usb to ps2 converter for your mouse and keyboard. even better use different devices.

as soon as you push the power button start tapping the delete key to get into bios setup.

the only other device that might be causing the b2 error is the cpu itself if the bios can't read the video rom of the hd2000(not hd3000). you might try a pci-e graphics add-in card to see if it gives a video display.

[mccoady]

Thanks guys for the suggestions yes we are using standoffs and I think we may have some unused ones since the board isn't full sized, but I didn't think about one of them possibly touching and shorting out the board...that will be the first thing to check out.

Jagabo we will remove the motherboard and try with just the CPU+cooler, RAM, monitor, keyboard, and power switch attached it has a on board power switch so it's easy to power up.

Aedipuss we did try with no mouse connected but the keyboard is usb connected I don't have a usb to ps2 converter so could the keyboard actually cause the code?

I will try a separate video card.

I did call a local computer shop and he said it sounded like a hardware issue. He said it could be the CPU although not likely but was more inclined to believe it was the motherboard or power supply he said to make sure the 8-pin power plug to the MOBO was getting 12V. If my nephew gets too frustrated dealing with this I may have to take it to the computer shop.

[jagabo]

Aedipuss we did try with no mouse connected but the keyboard is usb connected I don't have a usb to ps2 converter so could the keyboard actually cause the code?

It seems unlikely to me. But that's easy to check -- remove the mouse. You don't need it to get to and configure the BIOS/UEFI.[/QUOTE]