DVD backups freeze/skip after 30-60 minutes

[fatmat0126]

I'm hoping someone can give me a hand with this, because it is driving me crazy. When I back up my movies, they will play perfectly for awhile, and then after a little bit it will start to have brief pauses, and then it will completely lock up shortly after that. It usually happens in 30-60 minutes. I can stop the DVD, start it again and go to the part that just locked up, and it is fine, but it will start to do the same thing in another spot within a few minutes. Do you think this is my player, burner, what?

I would think it is my player because retail DVDs work fine, but I also occasionally run into the same problem on XBOX backups; skipping, pausing, or long loads. I have/use:

Sony DRU-710A burner with latest firmware, BYX5
Verbatim DVD+R DL discs, Verbatim DVD-R for single layer
Phillips DVP642 player
CD Stomper labels

I have had the same problem playing discs before putting labels on them, so I don't see that being the problem. I know there is nothing wrong with the media, you can't get much better than Verbatim. I use Taiyo -R for XBOX backups and occasionally have the same problem. So, any ideas? Would you advise getting a new burner, a new player, or what?

[fatmat0126]

Sorry, forgot to mention the process used. Usually I use DVD Decrypter and then burn with Nero. Occasionally some will give me an error message when I go to burn in Nero, saying that the DVD may be unplayable. In that case, I use DVD Shrink to rip and burn.

[ZippyP.]

CD Stomper labels

Don't use labels on DVD's, it is well known to cause playback problems. Try removing one and see if your problems disappear. I suspect it will.

[fatmat0126]

Thanks, but as I mentioned, I have the same issue prior to labelling them. I know that is a known issue, but many people use them with no trouble at all. I don't really think that is the problem, but there really does have to be a better answer to the label thing. I don't mean that as anything against you, because I do appreciate all the help I can get, but does anyone know specific players with lasers that handle DVDs with labels better than others? I personally don't see the purpose of backing them up if I am just going to have a bunch of plain DVDs with marker on them. I would rather go spend $200-$400 on a new player than not use labels. But again, I have run into the same problem with and without labels so I don't see that being the problem.

[fritzi93]

So use hub labels instead, if you like having labels. I can't recall any reports of them causing playback problems. Full-face labels are a very bad idea. And burn with ImgBurn instead of Nero.

Good luck.

[ZippyP.]

I personally don't see the purpose of backing them up if I am just going to have a bunch of plain DVDs with marker on them.

You can use a CD/DVD printer instead, like here: http://www.supermediastore.com/epson-stylus-photo-r260-inkjet-dvd-cd-printer.html

[cyflyer]

Which Verbatims ? There seems to be a proliferation of Verbatims from all over the place at the moment. India, Taiwan, Japan ? Mitsubishi Chemicals, Mitsubishi Kagayu, ?? Some I would trust, some not. Kinda confusing.
Another thing, are you burning them at full wack speed, ie 16x ?

[fatmat0126]

You can use a CD/DVD printer instead, like here: http://www.supermediastore.com/epson-stylus-photo-r260-inkjet-dvd ... inter.html

I had considered getting one of those. Has anyone here used them and what do they think of them? Has anyone run into the same problems that seem to be attributed to labels, or do they work fine when printed?

Which Verbatims ?

How exactly do I know where they are made? The packaging says made in Singapore, I'm not sure if that is what you are going by or not. The mfg is Mitsubishi Kagaku.

Another thing, are you burning them at full wack speed, ie 16x

80% or so of the discs I burn are DL. I burn 8x discs at 4x, although 4x is max speed for my drive. Single layer DVDs I burn at 8x.

[steptoe]

Try changing your burning software, I now use IMGBurn for all my DVD-Video work, Nero is used only for music or data

I proved Nero to be the cause of my problems when DVDs that played fine on one standalone refused to play on another, even saying no disc was in the player, if they did play skipped and stuttered so badly as to be unwatchable

All I did was try changing my burning software from Nero to DVD Decrypter, and ALL my problems stopped. Same media, same spindle, same burning speed. Just changed the software

I had to redo quite a few DVDs that had this problem, and played perfectly when I didn't use Nero as my burning software. This was Nero v6.xx

IMGBurn is free, its by the same author who wrote DVD Decrypter and can do a much better job than Nero (BUT this is my opinion, and I proved Nero was causing ME problems)

It can burn from folder and also image files that are created by DVD Decrypter, plus plenty more besides, like output a graph to be used by DVDInfo Pro to see how your burns are, but as you use Taiyo media you shouldn't really have any problems there

DVDInfo Pro will also tell you exactly what media you are using, regardless of what the label says. You might find the label says one thing, but the media ID tells you exactly who made it



All I can suggest is to give it a try, as its free you're not losing any money


There is also a version of DVD Shrink that has been altered to accept IMGBurn as its burner instead of DVD Decrypter, it works perfectly as I have been using that version for months

[steptoe]

Technical Information Regarding 32k Gaps

There can be gaps on a DVD. The most notable ones are those used to ensure that no ECC block contains any portion of an IFO file and its associated BUP file. Oftentimes, you will see commercial DVDs authored with tiny menu files of 40 or 50 kb, exactly for this purpose. Since ECC blocks are 16 sectors long (32K), the easiest way to accomplish this is to ensure that there are 16 sectors between the end of the IFO and the start of the BUP. With VIDEO_TS.VOB or VTS_xx_0.VOB files less that 32K (or absent) this means using a gap

Burning programs handle this in one of three ways, two of which are correct

· They can honour the authoring program's layout and place the data on the disk according to the pointers in the IFO files

· They can make their own layout decisions and alter the pointers accordingly

· They (notably Nero, at least in several past versions) pack the data as closely as possible and ignore the pointers


The upshot of this is, to use ISO images and burn with ImgBurn to maximize the chance of a "good burn"

Why is this needed?

If an IFO is unreadable (e.g. a CRC error in a sector), the player looks for the BUP, which is stored on the disk right after the VOBs for the titleset. Now suppose the VOBs for that titleset are small and the data is packed in. There is a chance that the BUP occupies exactly the same bad block that the IFO did, making the BUP useless and the disk, dead in the water

Essentially, the basic problem is that without the proper spacing, a single CRC error that would normally only affect one of the two files will affect both, rendering both useless. If proper spacing exists, it would take at least two CRC errors (one affecting each) to render both the IFO and BUP useless

It’s important that one failed sector does not ruin both the IFO and the BUP, making the DVD into yet another coaster

This problem does not affect disks which have VOBs for each and every VTS totalling 32K or more. However, crucially, it does affect ALL disks “reauthored” by DVD Shrink and Nero Recode (and possibly other one-click backup programs)

[steptoe]

I bought an Epson R220 mainly for DVD printing, but also as my Epson C46 had died and I needed to get another printer for general use also

Epson inks are much cheaper than most as the printhead is built into the printer, but as this wears out you will need to buy another printer (unlesss you do a lot of printing then you shouldn't need to worry about this). Compatable cartridges are very cheap for Epson printer because of this reason

Also you can buy constant ink systems for Epsons which are cheaper than most, and there are 2 or 3 versions to choose from. The more you pay the better the system, but again useful only if you do an awful lot of DVD printing

I've printed about 30-40 DVDs, most are full colour, full DVD, and I have barely reached half-way on the ink monitor, this is with the cartridges supplied with the printer

You do need to buy printable DVDs though, and the snag still applies to labels. If it gets wet it will smudge, but you can buy special sprays that make the ink waterproof and also give it a gloss finish without effecting the playability of the DVD

The printed quality is very good, but you do need to let the ink dry. If you use it straight away then you'll end up with the ink having lines in the printed surface due to the speed of the DVD spinning and trying the throw the ink off the DVD surface (Guess how I know this !!)

I just leave the discs overnight before checking them, I've checked the DVDs in various standalones and they play fine with none of the problems you are suffering



Again, just try using IMGBurn and see what happens, if it cures it, then you know what the problem is

Also the guy who writes IMGBurn suggests burning no faster that x4 for DVD-Video, regardless of the speed rating of the DVDs. Just to give the player chance to read the disc correctly I suppose

I buy x16 media and burn at x4, my reasons being that x16 should have better quality control than say x4 or x8 as its expected to be able to handle higher burn speeds, so the dye quality needs to be much better

Much like if you burn an audio CD to fast, it will skip in some CD players, but if you use a slower burn speed then it won't. I've proved this myself when burning audio CD's too fast

[hech54]

Personally I don't like Verbatim discs. I have had problems with them and TDK....probably because you never know exactly what you are getting.
But if you say your Taiyo Yudens are doing the same thing then remove Nero from your burning process and don't link one program to the other. Have DVDShrink create the ISO to your HDD then burn with DVDDecrypter or ImgBurn.
I cannot remember the last time I had a bad burn with the above mentioned burn/backup process.
And I also think labelling is a waste of time and money....both printables and stick-ons but that is just my opinion....your mileage may vary.
And slow down the burns....there is no need to crank up the burn speed to full blast just because the media and burner say you can.

[fatmat0126]

Thanks for all the tips. I do have IMGBurn, I use that for XBOX backups, so I'll give that a shot instead of Nero. I had DVDInfo Pro but it was just a trial, so I use DVD Identifier now, although I didn't see where it was made. I maybe should have mentioned that the discs play just fine in the drive they were burned in, I only have trouble on my standalone, so it's not like they are coasters. Maybe I'll just change everything. I have been wanting to get a Pioneer burner because those are supposedly best for Gamecube backups, and I heard they are pretty good overall. I really hate this DVP-642, mainly for the fact of how ridiculously loud the laser is, and it is constantly searching, even on retail discs. Maybe I'll just get a new burner, new player, and try out a DVD printer.

As far as the printer goes, any suggestion between the 260, 340, and 380? I would imagine just go with the newer ones but sometimes they screw up or do away with features on newer models. Just curious if anyone has any input on any of those. I do understand the point of view that printing or labeling is a waste of time, but I just really prefer it. I don't see the point unless everything is there. I used to download movies, but so many were not full DVDs, so I went back to buying them long ago. I want it all, the menus, the features, the deleted scenes, and yes, the art. I buy a DVD, rip it, scan the cover and label, make a back up and put the original away. Even though I have the original, I use the back up so I still want it all on there. Maybe I'm in the minority on the subject but I just prefer them to look proper.

Maybe you misread my post wrong, but I burn the majority of my discs at 4x. Are you saying I should slow it down even more, to 2.4x? Or is 2.4x overkill? Most everything I have seen says 4x is a pretty safe speed to burn at as long as you are using good media, but would 2.4x be better?

[cyflyer]

Maybe you misread my post wrong, but I burn the majority of my discs at 4x. Are you saying I should slow it down even more, to 2.4x? Or is 2.4x overkill? Most everything I have seen says 4x is a pretty safe speed to burn at as long as you are using good media, but would 2.4x be better?

but you said earlier:

Single layer DVDs I burn at 8x.

and:

although 4x is max speed for my drive.

?????????

The packaging says made in Singapore, I'm not sure if that is what you are going by or not. The mfg is Mitsubishi Kagaku

I always thought Singapore made discs were the worst.

There seems to be a lot of confusion with Verbatim, at least on my part. I see Made in India, Made in Japan, Made in Singapore, Made in Taiwan. I see Misubishi Kagaku, I see Mitsubishi Chemicals, and of the two Mistubishi's Made in ..... OF EACH. Whats the difference between Misubishi Kagaku and Mistubishi Chemicals ? Why do I see Mistubishi Kagaku- Made in India and Mitshubishi Kagaku-Made in Japan, or Singapore ???????????
Whats good, whats bad, and whats ugly ??? Can anyone shed some useful and intelligent info on this ? Lordsmurf ????

[hech54]

That's why I don't buy Verbatim or Memorsux discs.
The only Verbatims I have in my posession right now are D/L and I've had several coasters with those as well but in all fairness the odds are that I had something to do with the coasters myself.....maybe.