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  1. Okie dokie .. so I have a computer that wont boot. Its just dead. Push the power button and nothing happens.

    I first suspected perhaps the switch. The connector is still firmly in place on the MB but other than that, I have no idea how I would check it.

    I then thought the power supply, however, even with the tower off, the yellow and green lights for the onboard enet card are on. Is that normal?

    I originally had 2 HD's, an optical drive, video, and a 4 port usb expansion card. Everything is out. All thats left is the video card and one HD (I tried both HD's on the primary cable just to see if I could get a boot and nothing).

    Soooo .. what do ya think boys and girls?
    LG
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  2. Member fatbloke88's Avatar
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    May 2006
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    Hi
    although the connector is in place it doesn't mean that the switch isn't faulty you could remove the connector and short the two pins to see if it boots or try another switch
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  3. Mod Neophyte redwudz's Avatar
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    Sep 2002
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    USA
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    You can also substitute the reset switch terminals for the power switch terminals. They both work the same way.
    If you get nowhere with shorting, or substituting switches, then the power supply would the the next possibility. If the PS is OK, then the motherboard may be dead.
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  4. So is it possible that the PS can be fried, even though the two lights for the onboard ENET are still on? Cause that is my situation now.

    I would think that if the PS was dead, there is no power running into the rest of the tower, including the MB, ergo the lights on the ENET would NOT be on. Yes? No?
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  5. Member ranchhand's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    Not necessarily. Depends on what fried-sometimes only one lead goes bad and others still retain continuity. I have had bad PSs that I had to replace because power went dead to the CPU, but the mainboard lamp was still on! I like to carry a small, cheepie power supply tester; I think Newegg has them for under $20. It's handy for situations like this where you just want to know if juice is at least flowing through all the leads. Not as good as a full-blown voltage tester, but cheaper and easier to use and most of the time that is all you need.
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