Dual-band Wifi Compatibility

[Sakuya]

I wanted to upgrade my router since it was getting slow and wasn't even wireless-N. So I bought the Netgear N750 WNDR4300-100NAS which is a gigabit dual band router. I usually watch Netflix and stream TV so I figured I could connect that to the 5ghz band whereas all my cell phones can use the regular 2.4 band.

I live in a condo but I guess where my TV is located is still too far because it has a hard time even receiving 1 bar of signal from the 5ghz band! The 2.4ghz can be detected very well though. So then I thought if at least my new PC can connect to it. I just bought a HP h8-1420t recently and upon research, it seems I did not opt for the dual band wifi adapter!

My internet plan gives me up to 15 Mbps download speed. It's very basic so would there even be much of a difference in speed between 2.4ghz and 5ghz?

So my questions are:

1. Is there any way to get a better signal for my TV streaming?
2. Is it difficult and worth it to upgrade my PC's wifi adapter to one that supports 5ghz band? I have experience with upgrading RAM and DVD drives...
3. If I just buy a dual band wifi adapter for the PC, would that allow me to connect to my 5ghz band?

Thanks for any help!

[Bjs]

The only real difference you'll end up with is devices using the 5ghz band will communicate between themselves quicker, ie, lower response time. If many devices are communicating via the router the total bandwidth is split amongst devices ... data load balancing.

For 1:

No other improvements will be gained unless you move the router to a better position close to the tv or use EOP (Ethernet over power) units to bridge the gap.

For 2:

If you've been inside a system replacing ram, etc, then its just as easy thou don't rule out devices that connect by usb either.

For 3:

Yes, but then whats the distance ?

[Sakuya]

The distance between the router and my PC is only 2-3 feet, yet the 5ghz signal is already down two bars.

Thanks for the EOP suggestion. I think my main problem is getting the TV to stream with a strong signal. The distance from my router to the streaming TV is more or less 15 feet. Does EOP provide a stable connection? I'm a bit confused about the connection though. Right now my router is connected to the modem via Ethernet cable. Which device does the EOP connect to via Ethernet? Or do I need an extra router connected to the EOP and then the streaming TV to connect to that second router?

[usually_quiet]

The distance between the router and my PC is only 2-3 feet, yet the 5ghz signal is already down two bars.

Thanks for the EOP suggestion. I think my main problem is getting the TV to stream with a strong signal. The distance from my router to the streaming TV is more or less 15 feet. Does EOP provide a stable connection? I'm a bit confused about the connection though. Right now my router is connected to the modem via Ethernet cable. Which device does the EOP connect to via Ethernet? Or do I need an extra router connected to the EOP and then the streaming TV to connect to that second router?

EOP or Powerline Networking works well for a lot of people but not for everyone. Success depends on how the circuits are laid out, what kind of circuit breakers are installed, and other factors too. For example, powerline adapters may not work if plugged into a power strip or extension cord instead of being plugged directly into an outlet.

Like wireless networking, it is pretty necessary to try it to find out if it will work for your situation. Multiple powerline adapters are required, one for the router, and usually one for each device to be connected. However, if there are multiple devices near one outlet, there are some adapters with multiple Ethernet ports that act as a switch. The adapters plug into an electrical outlet. One powerline adapter connects to the router and the other powerline adapters connect to an Ethernet port on the devices to be added to the home network. Connections to the adapters are made with Ethernet cables.

I have seen them in brick-and-mortar electronics stores, but selection is usually sparse, and it may be necessary to shop online to find a product that meets your needs. Here is a link to one online store with a variety of powerline networking products, plus user reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Powerline-Networking/SubCategory/ID-294

[yoda313]

I know this is kind of off topic but here is what I use. I use the netgear wifi lan adapter (its an N device).

I have my wifi n router (netgear) in one room and the bluray player connected to the lan adapter in the other room - same floor.

I can do full hd 1080p hdx through vudu over my bluray player with 0 stuttering using this setup. I have comcast cable and a nice pipline (haven't checked the speeds lately).

Here is the model - fairly certain its the same unit - its model number in the pic is n300 which I assume means its the n network speed:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-WNCE2001-Universal-Internet-Adapter/dp/B003KPBRRW/ref=sr...l+wifi+adapter

I am very happy with it - its connected to my nonwifi bluray player that has a lan port but no internal wifi.

I originally bought it so I could try to get n speeds on my ps3 in a different room but decided on getting a separate bluray player instead. ANd this worked out since I already had the wifi adapter I didn't need to get a wifi enabled bluray player.

Sorry if this isn't what you are looking for.

But it might be. All it does is plug into your lan port and you are good to go.

[Sakuya]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into those links. Can't believe such tiny adapters cost almost as much as a basic router. And just to clear up my confusion, the 2.4/5ghz band is just the frequency for wifi, right? It doesn't apply if you connect via Ethernet cable? Also, does it make a big difference what cable you use in terms of speed for streaming (cat5e or cat6)?

Yoda313, do you have an idea what the distance between your router and the bluray player is? Just curious.

[Sakuya]

you guys are moving way to fast on the topic. first thing i would disable guest access on your router.second if you have a power setting for wireless in your router make sure its setting at a 100% or higher if possible. third if you got a smart phone(easiest to use) or laptop with wifi download an app call inssider(yes its spelled with 2 ss) in the app atleast on a smartphone you select to optimize, make sure that is selected, then you will be able to check for the best channel to use, set the channel in your router. fifth try using 2.4ghz as it has a longer range than 5 ghz setting. plz let me know if this helped i may have more ideas for you

I already disabled the guest network. The channel is set to auto which I think means it will automatically select the best channel? I'm on WPA2-AES and the mode for 2.4ghz is set to Up to 54Mbps. I thought it was higher? The options are 54, 130, 300. I found the Transmit Power Control and it's already set at 100%.

[usually_quiet]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into those links. Can't believe such tiny adapters cost almost as much as a basic router. And just to clear up my confusion, the 2.4/5ghz band is just the frequency for wifi, right? It doesn't apply if you connect via Ethernet cable? Also, does it make a big difference what cable you use in terms of speed for streaming (cat5e or cat6)?

Yes, 2.4/5ghz is just the frequency for WiFi. The maximum connection speed available for powerline network adapters is listed in the specs for the adapters. The figure listed is usually 200Mbps or 500Mbps, but that is only achieved under ideal conditions. A home powerline network may not be able to reach those speeds in practice.

As long as the Ethernet cable is not defective, I don't think the type of Ethernet cable used makes much as difference as the condition of the electrical wiring.

[Sakuya]

Is it okay for me to change the wireless mode from 54Mbps to 300Mbps?

I noticed with the installation of this new router, I'm also getting weaker signal in the same area as my TV while using 2.4ghz mode; only 3 bars. I was using an old Buffalo router with dd-wrt on it and that living room would get full bars. While in this area, viewing YouTube on an iPad tends to buffer occasionally. Even on my computer (on 2.4ghz wifi with full bars), I noticed YouTube videos don't play immediately because it's still loading slowly.

I'll check into the wifi adapter Yoda313 mentioned. It sounds similar to the EOP except it doesn't need to be plugged into the wall.

[yoda313]

@sauya -doing a very rough estimate Id say 16 feet as the crow flies. Not a firm measurement mind you.

[DARR-of_the-DEAD]

Is it okay for me to change the wireless mode from 54Mbps to 300Mbps? yes absolutely

he channel is set to auto which I think means it will automatically select the best channel? not necessarily, because on most people use auto, so your router is always fight and changing channels + you may have overlapping issues. set your channel let everyone else fight routers fight for the best best channel. i highly recommend you use inssider.

if you don't want to use the tool you can do it the long way. change the channel one by one check your bars and do a speedtest on your end device. the only problem with doing it this way is it doesn't check for overlapping.

* overlapping = interference with other networks.

other ideas:
if you still have your old router you should be able to use it as a AP or a repeater.

sry i had a more in depth answer here before but i got removed i don't know why

Sakuya i sent you a message too

[Nelson37]

If you want the best connection, run an ethernet cable from the router to the device. Dramatically faster and cleaner connection.

EOP is something I would do only in an emergency, and if the equipment was free. It's a half-ass kludge that can be an option if nothing else works.

Simply moving the router higher often helps. Using a USB extension cable on the adapter side and moving the receiver higher also should help.

Not getting full reception (5 bars) from 2-3 feet away indicates something is very, very wrong. Unless there is a broken microwave oven or a couple feet of lead in between, either the adapter or the router is broken. Use a program like NetStumbler to get detailed info. Different programs will show different "bars", which effectively mean little or nothing.

Going over the rated 54 speed is dependent on BOTH the router and the adapter being compatible with how that speed is implemented. Go with same make and model.

Cat 5e or Cat 6 won't make much difference, TODAY. However, TOMORROW, you may need a Cat 6 cable and if you go 5e today you won't have one and will need to replace it. Same with connectors and wall jacks, if you have jacks put in, DO NOT repeat NOT have a "phone guy" do the jack installation. They don't know or follow the specs.

[Sakuya]

I downloaded inSSIDer (NetStumbler couldn't detect my wifi adapter for some reason) and found that channel 11 is the least used so I've switched to it. My link score is 43. I live in a condo so there's a lot of overlapping going on. And not sure if this means anything. But on my own PC which is using wifi 2.4ghz, inSSIDer is reporting -42 dBm. I'm guessing that is the distance from the router? I've walked over to the TV area and it is now -69 dBm.

And while I'm at it, the 5ghz band is -58 dBm at my PC area and not detected at all in the TV area. I found a spot that can move my router a little bit closer so I'll try that.

So the options I'm thinking about are EOP, wifi extender, or access point.

[usually_quiet]

I downloaded inSSIDer (NetStumbler couldn't detect my wifi adapter for some reason) and found that channel 11 is the least used so I've switched to it. My link score is 43. I live in a condo so there's a lot of overlapping going on. And not sure if this means anything. But on my own PC which is using wifi 2.4ghz, inSSIDer is reporting -42 dBm. I'm guessing that is the distance from the router? I've walked over to the TV area and it is now -69 dBm.

And while I'm at it, the 5ghz band is -58 dBm at my PC area and not detected at all in the TV area. I found a spot that can move my router a little bit closer so I'll try that.

So the options I'm thinking about are EOP, wifi extender, or access point.

If you don't know what an abbreviation means, use Google or Wikipedia to find out. The dBm measurements indicate the wireless signal strength in those areas. -42 dBm is reasonably good and -69 dBm is weaker.