I have doubts about 2 of the answers this authorized Philips TV Technician told me. I'm not saying that he's lying, but since my TV is under warranty and that Philips is paying for any technical repairs, I'm a bit suspicious.
The TV is an HD 30 inch Widescreen Tube.
In both questions, the TV TECH said that it was normal for HD flat screen Tube TVs.
1- Depending on what I'm watching, I'll sometimes see pixels around fast moving object or characters (mostly in animation). The pixels do catch up and disappear when the object or character stops moving, but still it's annoying and I was wondering if it's normal. I get my TV signal via digital cable (Videotron Illico) and I use an S-Video connection.
2- When ever a color is very light (like white), the right side of my screen is darker than the left side. One fine example is with my Nintendo Wii, when I hit the HOME button, a menu appears with 2 large buttons: Wii Menu and Reset. Both are suppose to be the same Lite Blue and White, but the one on the right (Reset) is more of a yellowish white. Hard to describe, but it doesn't look the same as the left button.
Anyway, what do you think, bull@#$% or not?
Thank you
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For case 1, you are describing what is probably artifacts of compression. This is caused by too much compression of the source video by the broadcaster in my opinion. Congratulations, importer, generally the audience is ignorant of this distortion, especially when viewing standard definition programs. High definition compression artifacts are much more noticeable.
As for case 2, is the distortion visible when the source is something besides your game console? -
Originally Posted by luigi2000
As for case 2, is the distortion visible when the source is something besides your game console?[/quote]
I also have a computer plugged into my 2nd S-Video input. When opening Windows Explorer, the right side is darker-yellowish as well.
Also, if it's of any help the Nintendo Wii is plugged with Component Cables and this TV is less than 8 months old.
Thank you -
Best way to assess your tube is to get TV test patterns disk and carefully run all tests. Your Philips tech. should have done that if there's a suspicion that the tube is going bad. One of the best is Avia test disk. The cure is degaussing (google for that...) just like a CRT monitor. You may also experience an interference from speakers or other electrical equipment (discoloration etc.) generating magnetic fields..
Mosquito artifacts are typical for compressed sources end their level depends on how good the source is. -
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When the sub-woofer is moved farther from the picture tube, does the right-side coloration go away? This is to insure that the magnet is not distorting the picture. If speaker placement is not the problem, then the problem is misaligned purity.
Has this monitor always had this symptom? A technician can adjust the purity rings on the neck of the picture tube to make the color uniform across the raster. -
Originally Posted by luigi2000
The TECH needs to come back to change an unrelated part in the TV, I'll have him checked what you recommended if he still says it's normal.
Thank you -
If you have HDNet they run a test pattern that you could use too.
If I read your question properly you have a HDTV that is hooked up via a SDTV connection, Do you have HD? If so you are not getting the best picture via s-video -
With my cable company I have a cable box and if I want to get HDTV from a HDTV channel then I need to connect the cable box to my TV using either component video or HDMI. If I use S-Video or composite then I do not get HDTV.
To the best of my knowledge only component video, DVI and HDMI can do HDTV whereas S-Video and composite cannot.
- John "FulciLives" Coleman"The eyes are the first thing that you have to destroy ... because they have seen too many bad things" - Lucio Fulci
EXPLORE THE FILMS OF LUCIO FULCI - THE MAESTRO OF GORE
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Most sub-woofers magnets have enough power to cause that. Moving it may not give you an immediate relief as the mask may be already magnetized. You need to turn TV an and off several times (automatic degaussing) to cure that or the tech can do it with the special coil. Move the sub away from the TV anyway as this is most likely causing you a problem. You need to run diminished (-20%, -40%, -60% etc.) brightness uniformity tests. Also color charts to see the effect on the tube. Get the disk anyway.
here are some tips:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/002-1699129-7113649?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Avia -
Originally Posted by the_importer
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Your computer is also one huge electro magnet and could be causing the interference as well. It does not have to be on the same side to cause that kind of interference, especially if the fields are diametrically opposed. Move any and ALL magnetic sources away from the TV and then turn it on to see if it degausses.
You might also take a picture with the TV on so we can see what you are describing. -
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
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luigi2000 has it nailed on the head when it comes down to broadcast's ... to me it's crap ... too many artifact's in picture issue for my liking ... you'll never get the best from s-video connection .
The pixel issue could also be an issue with the digital cable box .
I would be looking at that game console ... did it start after you started playing with it on the unit ... there has been problems with other unit's ... check what the console's video out frequency is , and make sure the tv can accept this standard ... if not , there's trouble brewing down the track ... plug the console via a vcr to tv should take care of that .
InXess
"The cure is degaussing" ... what the ?
These dont have this fuction ... there's a device that fit's to the end of the tube that can reset the colour , and reflash it ... if it's loosing this ... around cost figure for this shouldnt be more than $80.00au ... then it may also be a defective component somewhere within the circuit's that control the variable's of colour adjustment , brightness , and contrast , which is what should be checked first ... any technician worth there salt would know how to do this and beable to confirm this issue within an hour ... if there schedule is clear at that time .
As for the colour difference on screen , the right being darker than the left ... this is normally associated with magnetic interference ... it may be possible to reverse this affect simply by swapping the pc / wii with the subwoofer ... keep an eye out over the time ... when it look's almost normal ... remove the pc and the subwoofwer from the set ... and dont do it again .
The dark side is where the pull has ocured .
Rarely the power inverter supply inside the unit that supplys the high startup volts may have developed an issue ... but too replace it would cost almost half of the initial units cost ... and as modern parts go these day's ... there's no guarantee that the replacement dosent go the same way .
I'd ask about the plug that gose into the tube to be checked out , may not have been installed correctly ... its rare to happen , then get them to retest the unit to see if it made any difference ... dont you touch that ... it will either throw you into next week , or kill you out right ... there's a proper tool for those thing's that must be used ... bloody dangerous .
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Resetting screwed coloured screen's , confirm the initial distribution pattern path of the distortion , calculate the reverse field travel required , a steady hand , and a magnet of equal pull as used to create the initial problem ... I have it down to a fine art ... but dont suggest you do this .
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My subwoofer is under mine ... been there alot longer , and I have had no problem's ... but then I know it has adequate magnetic shielding ... otherwise it wouldnt be there in the first place ...
I got more junk than you around mine ...
Xbox , ps2 + 320gig hd loader , 4500watt 6.1 audio , two dvd's , vcr , digital topset box , home built pvr system , pod power boards , adapter's , and a truck load of cable's going between them all ... it's a fight just getting too the media collection ... choice's ... nope ... I'll get on this idiot box ...
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Thanks everyone.
I guess the S-Video connection could be the cause of the pixels. This connection might be good for standard TVs, but for HD TVs, I might be seeing thing that I wasn't suppose to see. It probably doesn't help that I purchased that S-Video cable at my local dollar store ether :P
As for the color issue, I added some space between the TV, PC and subwoofer and waited a few days, but no change. Perhaps the discoloration was initially there prior to purchase, I'm not sure, didn't use it much until I got the Wii.
I'll ask the technician to double check some of the ideas that got mentioned in this topic.
Thank you -
Originally Posted by the_importer
And I don't do HDTV, but I've already seen enough comments about how poorly S-video cable perform on them to know not to use one there. -
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Well the ones in my area do, they have basic cables for audio and video (you're not gonna find components there). As for using one for my Digital Cable TV, well I don't have a choice, that box is not the HD version, so S-Video is the best output on it. Even if I did have the option for components, I wouldn't use it since I only have 1 component input on my TV and it's being used by the Wii. I don't watch TV enough to care about the image quality, I was just curious to know if my TV had a problem or something. -
Originally Posted by the_importer
S-video speculation is a longshot IMHO. -
I just saw this thread. I agree with others that the yellow on one side is a TV internal adjustment problem if you can show it is present with multiple sources of flat color. If you see any color when viewing a monochrome source, this indicates a TV adjustment problem since the Y luminance is being converted to RGB in the TV for display. RGB needs to be in good balance to show monochrome on a color TV.
As for the pixelation during motion issue, you might improve this by switching the setup menu under "picture" then "Digital Options" from "progressive" to "1080i lines" or "1050i lines" on some models. I have a similar Philips "HD Ready" TV but not the same model.
Philips CRT HDTV's convert all NTSC or 480i component inputs to 1080 or 1050 lines for display. Only 720x480p component inputs are displayed as 480 lines. These TVs have two ways to upconvert, interlace or progressive. Interlace keeps the separate fields at 60 Hz so motion artifacts created by the TV are minimal. It may be enhancing artifacts generated in the cable system however.
Progressive conversion mode is awful on these models. The idea is to deinterlace 480i and upconvert to something like 540p at 30fps. The process is known as "deinterlace". To do this motion between fields needs to be averaged in some way. The method Philips uses results in twinkling pixels around moving objects. This is most objectional in news type talking heads where shifting blinking eyes and teeth become flickering pixels. I can't watch it.
A second strong issue on all this is the quality of your cable system. When I got this HDTV, our local Comcast was one of the worst and these deinterlace problems were extreme. About a year ago, Comcast finished upgrading to a state of art 750 MHz system supporting HDTV, VOD and data. With this system the TV deinterlace to progressive problems are still there but less extreme. I still recommend using interlace mode at the TV for NTSC and 480i.
DVD players can be used with 480i or 480p progressive outputs to this TV. 480i upconverts like the cable channels and all aspect ratio and "color controls" are active. Progressive DVD output over component 480p 59.94 fps is displayed at the TV natively as 720x480p. In this 480p mode the DVD player controls the image. If everything is set right, this mode gets the best DVD quality for a movie DVD.
If an when you get an HD cable box, I suggest setting the output to 1080i for HD and 480p for SD "override" when feeding this HDTV. Quality analog component cables should be used for HD. I'm talking about the $20 cables at Walmart, not the $9 cables. The cable company should provide the cables anyway.
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