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  1. Member Xylob the Destroyer's Avatar
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    We recently closed on our first house and I want to replace the tiny piece of shit mailbox with something bigger and better.

    What do I need to drill 4 holes in the brick exterior of my house to mount this mailbox?


    I got a drill, that's no problem, but do I need some kind of "special drill"?
    What kind of bit do I need?
    Anchors? How big and what kind?
    The mailbox came with 4 screws that are about an inch to and inch-and-a-half long, but I doubt that I'll be able to drive them into a hole in the brick without something else in there....

    your help will be greatly appreciated!

    TIA!!!
    "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." - Steven Wright
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  2. Knew It All Doramius's Avatar
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    Get rid of the screws. Go out and buy screws with anchors. You'll also need a "masonry" bit. If the brcks are clay style RED brick, I would suggest using plastic anchors. If it's concrete or the brick seems very solid, then metal anchors would suffice. I've had problems where the brick would crack with metal anchors. It's not because it was too tight, it was because a small amount of moisture got in the hole during the winter.

    The anchors should come with the screws, but You could use the same screws that came with the box if you can find the appropriate anchors they will go with. A Masonry bit works differently than a regular bit, so be patient and don't force hard on the drill, though apply some firm pressure. DOn't forget to place masking tape or electrical tape on the bit to mark your depth, so you don't drill too far or shallow.
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  3. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    A man walked into his son's room and said..."Son, that will cause blindness."
    The boy said, "Dad, I'm over here."
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  4. Knew It All Doramius's Avatar
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    Good choice. That's a clay anchor. Nice pic. Don't use Concrete screws. They will pull out and crack clay brick.
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  5. Member Xylob the Destroyer's Avatar
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    before I put the anchor in, should I squirt some goo in there?
    silicone, liquid nails, etc???
    "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." - Steven Wright
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  6. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Xylob the Destroyer
    before I put the anchor in, should I squirt some goo in there?
    silicone, liquid nails, etc???
    Don't squirt anything.

    Use the proper bit, etc.

    Use a 1/4" carbide tipped bit for #10 screws.

    I always use #10 phillips head sheet metal screws with the plastic anchors.

    Never had a failure yet!
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    If you ever need to move it it will be a pain in the *#@ if you use anything.

    Don't use the highest speed on your drill, if it has hammer action use it.

    Slower speed for masonary bits so they don't burn and use a steady firm pressure on the drill.
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  8. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    Let's go pick up Doramius and we can install that guy's mailbox.

    I hope his wife is a good cook!!!
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  9. Member Xylob the Destroyer's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Mr. Dweezel
    I hope his wife is a good cook!!!
    Negative.
    "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." - Steven Wright
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  10. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Xylob the Destroyer
    Originally Posted by Mr. Dweezel
    I hope his wife is a good cook!!!
    Negative.
    Oh well.... Burger King again!
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    Alot of good replies here.

    And my two cents?
    The proper tool would be a hammerdrill and a masonary bit of the required size (1/4") Lacking that you can get a cheap masonary bit and use it in a regular drill (do keep it slow, the heat build up is what will kill it) I would also reccomend situating the box so that you can drill into the mortar (It is much softer and easier to touch up down the road when you change out mailboxes again) Even if you have to make new holes in the back of the mailbox.

    The plastic anchor shown above will be hammered into the hole that you made, the box placed with all of the holes lined up and screws dirven into the anchor. (I usually cheat by holding up the box or item and marking one hole. I then set the item down and drill the first hole and mount the fixture with one screw and adjust for level. I then drill another hole using the existing fixture holes to show me where to drill (cuts down on measuring errors and time)

    I know that the mortar is not the strongest anchorage, but it is the easiest to work with and there are usually voids in the brick that can blow out when you are drilling and become a real pain. There are also different sized anchors, but 1/4" is about standard for your app.
    IS IT SUPPOSED TO SMOKE LIKE THAT?
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  12. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    If he has any problems he can call this guy!

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  13. Член BJ_M's Avatar
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    use tapcon masonry screws and dont fool around with those wimp assed plastic anchors ...

    http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product1_10053_10001_28596_-1_TekSu...teners_35069_N

    easy to use and strong like bull ...

    "Each problem that I solved became a rule which served afterwards to solve other problems." - Rene Descartes (1596-1650)
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  14. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BJ_M
    wimp assed plastic anchors


    I've never had a problem with them.

    However, installing a screw directly into masonry is a different story.

    Also, the mailbox will receive a LOT of vibration and the masonary screw will eventually
    work loose.

    But, of course, different things work for different people, and different situations.

    The original poster now has enough information to fasten his mailbox in
    about 200 different ways!
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    Originally Posted by BJ_M
    use tapcon masonry screws and dont fool around with those wimp assed plastic anchors ...

    http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product1_10053_10001_28596_-1_TekSu...teners_35069_N

    easy to use and strong like bull ...

    I agree. The heads on these will twist off before they strip out the hole.

    These and a decent hammer drill are the tools necessary to complete the job.
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  16. Член BJ_M's Avatar
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    yep - tapcons do NOT work loose or fall out - we use them commercially for a lot of heavy equipment , they are sold at home depot also ...
    "Each problem that I solved became a rule which served afterwards to solve other problems." - Rene Descartes (1596-1650)
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  17. Knew It All Doramius's Avatar
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    Problem is they work for hard masonry, stone, concrete, cement. Clay brick will give out under these and strip. They are top of the line screws though. Use them for fastening aluminum studs for framing all the time. many clay bricks are too soft and porus for them though. If you think your brick is strong enough you can use them, as there are some good quality bricks made these days. But if it looks old worn or you can easilty gouge it with a flathead screwdriver, I would stay away from concrete or masonry screws.
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  18. Member Xylob the Destroyer's Avatar
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    the bricks are 40 years old, and I have no idea what they're made of.
    their reddish, so I'm assuming some kind of clay.
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  19. Just use a 6mm (or 1/4" I guess for the US) masony drill bit with a hammer drill to drill the holes. Push red rawl plugs into the holes and screw the box to the wall. Its not like you need super heavy duty fixings for a mailbox. And personally if it were me, I would try fixing into the mortar joints, that way if you ever decided to remove or relocate the mailbox, you dont have holes in your bricks.
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  20. Member
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    Originally Posted by Doramius
    Problem is they work for hard masonry, stone, concrete, cement. Clay brick will give out under these and strip. They are top of the line screws though. Use them for fastening aluminum studs for framing all the time. many clay bricks are too soft and porus for them though. If you think your brick is strong enough you can use them, as there are some good quality bricks made these days. But if it looks old worn or you can easilty gouge it with a flathead screwdriver, I would stay away from concrete or masonry screws.
    If the correct size drill bit is used, the screws will not work loose from brick.
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  21. Member
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    It has been my expeirence that brick is too brittle for tapcons or the like, I would go with the plastic anchor. I like Tapcons and Hilti Quickcons and the like, but sometimes they are hit or miss with the masonry that you are drilling into.
    IS IT SUPPOSED TO SMOKE LIKE THAT?
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  22. Член BJ_M's Avatar
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    true that old CLAY bricks are not always the best .... nowdays , a lot of new bricks are concrete ..

    lead anchors and rawl plugs will often work - so will silicone a wood dowel for that mater if the brick is in really bad shape - or use the mortar if it is on better shape ...
    "Each problem that I solved became a rule which served afterwards to solve other problems." - Rene Descartes (1596-1650)
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  23. Member
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    This is starting to sound like my place of work.

    Tapcons, no use lead sheilds, no use plastic sheilds, no just glue it up there, the architec is an idiot who still uses a mailbox, put it on a post at the edge of the road, nail it to a tree in the yard, why not cut a hole in the door for a mail slot, do we have the permit yet, there is no power, its raining, its too hot, call Zapper he will know what to do.
    IS IT SUPPOSED TO SMOKE LIKE THAT?
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  24. Member Webster's Avatar
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    If all else fail, you could alway try these:



    They have been know to work wonder............
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  25. Member Webster's Avatar
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    Oh, with everybody mentioning masonary bit. And nobody bother to show a picture of it. You may want to know what it look like..........
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  26. Member Mr. Dweezel's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by ZAPPER
    This is starting to sound like my place of work.

    Tapcons, no use lead sheilds, no use plastic sheilds, no just glue it up there, the architec is an idiot who still uses a mailbox, put it on a post at the edge of the road, nail it to a tree in the yard, why not cut a hole in the door for a mail slot, do we have the permit yet, there is no power, its raining, its too hot, call Zapper he will know what to do.
    You need to RELAX!!!

    Get a hammock and go waaaaay out in the country and take
    a loooong nap... or find a sandy beach!




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  27. Member Xylob the Destroyer's Avatar
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    did consider mounting it on a post by the road, but that would just make it a target for mailbox-baseball (a favorite local passtime!)

    thanks for all the input! looks like I should have plenty of information for my project this weekend.
    "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." - Steven Wright
    "Megalomaniacal, and harder than the rest!"
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  28. Knew It All Doramius's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Craig Tucker
    Just use a 6mm (or 1/4" I guess for the US) masony drill bit with a hammer drill to drill the holes. Push red rawl plugs into the holes and screw the box to the wall. Its not like you need super heavy duty fixings for a mailbox. And personally if it were me, I would try fixing into the mortar joints, that way if you ever decided to remove or relocate the mailbox, you dont have holes in your bricks.
    Very good suggestion. Follow this if you can. but again, 40 year old mortar has a tendency to be even weaker than the brick. A house built in the early 70's had to have load bearing support jacks and an entire wall removed and replaced because a guy was trying to install outdoor lighting to a brick wall. The mortar and brick was s**t. An $80 lighting system ended up costing him over $10,000 in home repair.

    Again, good rule of thumb, take a sturdy flathead screwdriver and score the brick & mortar in a hidden or less visible area. If it feels sturdy or resists scoring, then you're probably good to go. If it crubmbles away, or powders out easily, you'll want to stick with anchors and determine whether the mortar or brick is sturdier. If it's about the same, place your holes in the mortar as it will be easier to conceal if you change placement of the box.
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  29. Member SquirrelDip's Avatar
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    Be careful of the recomendations from 'that' side of the pond - their threads turn in the wrong girection.

    Use the Tapcons but make sure you have Robertson heads...

    So much for the kidding...

    Since this is a masonry wall shouldn't you be mounting some 1x2's on the wall and mount the mailbox to the 1x2's? Use the Tapcons to mound a couple of vertical 1x2's then a few short wood screws to mount the box to the wood.
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  30. Член BJ_M's Avatar
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    forward the mail to peru
    "Each problem that I solved became a rule which served afterwards to solve other problems." - Rene Descartes (1596-1650)
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