Homemade Disc Laminator

[hugabone]

Im in the process of building a laminator. The Disc laminating film is on order and once it gets here I will begin. The laminator is a simple process. It uses a heat roller and pressure to roll over the film onto the disc. I have access to a heat roller assembly but the roller is stationary. What I might do is take an old CD drive and modify it to be driven along with the film underneath the roller. The key to success is having the right temperature on the roller.

The manufactured disc laminator is way overpriced imo. Using spray or sleeves is not a way I want to go. I dont distribute but Im not satisfied with uncoated discs. They run like crazy with the slightest moisture and has no gloss. Hell, you might can get away with using an iron. Thats what Im going to use as a starter to see how the film works. I will report back.

[lordsmurf]

I don't think this will work on DVD. No better than labels.

[hugabone]

[quote="lordsmurf"]I don't think this will work on DVD. No better than labels.[/quote

? The way it works is you print onto your cd/dvd then put a coating(laminate) on top. The film has a coating and when it heats up it will then transfer that onto a surface. The coating is then bonded to the disc and you would have a glossy, water resistant scratch resistant coating. Labels are just stickons. This is a fused process.

[erdons]

Im wondering if there would be any playback problems doing this.

[bidefordboy]

We have matt & gloss finish photo paper, why not matt or gloss finish printable dvd's ?

[lordsmurf]

Photo paper tends to be too thick. Some of those gloss styles of paper are created by mere thickness.

[Captain315]

I agree that all of us should make a concerted effort to find a solution to disc protection, especially a way to protect the recording side. I'm amazed at how easy it is to damage these discs.
I've tried all kinds of different waxes and such but nothing seems to do the job satisfactorily. I know there are roll film laminators where the heat can be adjusted but I don't have access to one. Furthermore, I think it would come off. Don't think laminators really work that well unless they are sealed around the edges. New things come out all the time so maybe something will work. I hope you have good luck with this and will keep us informed as to your success. I, like you, am searching for a product or process that will work.

[hugabone]

For more info go here http://www.primera.com/accent_disc_laminator.html There have never been any mention of playback issues. Thermal transfer is the best way to coat or print images but is expensive. The Everest is one of the best printing disc labels but it cost. I have two dvd printers, a EZ/CD 6500 and the R200. The 6500 prints more accurate w/o tweaking but the R200 does more. Hope all goes well.

[hugabone]

[quote="Captain315"] Furthermore, I think it would come off. Don't think laminators really work that well unless they are sealed around the edges.

Come off? remember it is fused with heat onto the disc. Its not pressed on with your hand. The process is the same as a copier using toner. Toner doesnt just rub off. Can you rub off a Hollywood disc? Though they use screening, this process gives the same results. Its scratch resistant too. I dont have a solution for the data side. These are backups so if I scratch the disc then Ill make another one. The disc will never get scratch if handled properly.

[Captain315]

Ok, thanks. Sorry for the post.

[gmatov]

I hesitate to come right out and say this is silly, but...

Do you think just maybe you should try another type of INK, such as Epson Durabrite, or whatever their pigmented ink is called?

If the print runs after dropping water on it, it's because the ink, as well as the gel coat on the disk, is not designed to "fuse". ANY non-pigmented ink will run after wetting it. They are DYEs.

Any photo paper that is built right, be it .002 or .011, in thickness will print the same, as long as it is designed, and this refers to the gel coat only, for that particular ink. The ink will diffuse into the gel coat and you have a good pic. You have the wrong paper, the wrong gel coat, you have a bad picture..

This is not Canon-Canon, HP-HP, Epson-Epson, nor even Office Depot-Office Depot.

My Canon will do an excellent print on Epson and Canon and Office Depot glossy photo paper.

My HP will do excellent print on Canon, Epson, and Office Depot paper.

My Canon sucks on HP Photo Plus, or whatever the terminology is, pooling, blotchiness, utterly stinks.

Ink incompatibility. And the gel coat on "printable disks" is in the same category. Whose printers are the disks compatible with?

Does anyone know? Has any vendor said "Compatible with Epson 200 or 300", or the Canons we have heard are available everywhere but here?

We went through this when one of the members modded a printer to print to disk. The ink ran. Well, of course, it's ink, not paint, it doesn't dry out, it's absorbed, forms a bond with the gel coat, and if the gel coat is not waterproof, or water resistant, that will run, too.

keep on keeping on, though. Mebbe someone will build an etcher to make a permanent "lable". Just remember, DVD, not CD.

Cheers,

George

[lordsmurf]

If you're REALLY concerned about the image quality, quit using ink. Ink runs. The end. Use thermal or other methods.

[adam]

gmatov, if the ink runs because its getting wet, then a laminate will keep it from getting wet.

hugabone, they actually do sell glossy printables. It won't do anything for protecting the ink from running, but it might give you more of the look you are after.

[stiltman]

Has any vendor said "Compatible with Epson 200 or 300

Yes

http://www.tdk.com/recmedia/dvd/printondvd.html

[hugabone]

Hum, maybe folks are missing what Im trying to do. Im trying to laminate a disc. Its put a PROTECTIVE COATING over the image. I never said I wasnt happy with the image or ink capatibility with the disc. INK IS NEVER SEALED ON A DISC. I recieved my film and have been experimenting with it. I have only been using an iron until I get my heat roller setup. I can say one thing, when I get it right, lamininating will be the way to go. If you dont care about making a disc image look or perform better then this thread is not for you. If you print an image using ink then why not try to keep all intact. Thermal printing full color images is expensive unless you are in the business. Im giving an alternative to using spray. The film is nothing more than a very thin plastic that has a coating on the bottom that get fused to the disc. Its just a thermal process. If I go to a glossy media then that would need a coating as well. Like I said, the result so far is better than I thought. I just need to control the temperature to make an even coat.

[stiltman]

what's wrong with spraying them with a clear sealer instead?

Water proof and durable

[hugabone]

[quote="stiltman"]what's wrong with spraying them with a clear sealer instead?

Water proof and durable[/quote

Well, I havent used a spray. I do know that this method gives a professional look beyond even screen printing, no mess, no fumes or drying time. The finish looks like glass was placed over the disc.

[Skith]

Out of curiosity, how hot (temp) does the laminate have to be to bond? I would be afraid of melting/warping the disc.

On a side note, LightScribe looks to be very interesting, even though it is currently only capable of monochrome output.

[hugabone]

Out of curiosity, how hot (temp) does the laminate have to be to bond? I would be afraid of melting/warping the disc.

On a side note, LightScribe looks to be very interesting, even though it is currently only capable of monochrome output.

Im still trying to figure that out. Around 200 degrees or so. Iv have warped some experimental disc using a hot iron. A hot iron is not the way to go but I just want to see what ill be working with.

[Skith]

Wow! don't poison yourself with fumes from the disc.

Good luck!