MSI K7N2 Delta-L Power connector problem?

[mujahid7ia]

I have a known good power supply, but when I connect the ATX power connector for the motherboard and the 4-pin 12V connector, it doesn't work (i.e. nothing gets powered, no fan, nothing). If i use the 'paper clip method' for testing a psu, all components (fans, drives) work. I don't know what's wrong. It's a new motherboard (bought from newegg.com), and i've tried a few things already. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is kind of urgent

[Ripper2860]

*Have you verified the POWER SWITCH connector from the case is connected properly? Of course, that is assuming it is in a case. If it is installed on the correct pins and still does not work, try this ...

Remove the power switch connector from the mobo and very carefully use a screw driver to "touch/short" the 2 pins briefly. The system should power up. Another touch and it will shut-off. If it works with the screw driver, then it may be a bad switch on the case.PSU/Mobo outside of the case.


*Make sure the mobo is not grounding out somewhere. Remove from the case if needed, to test.

*If it is outside of the case (i.e. testing purposes, etc.), the mobo will not power up without the power connector installed unless w/ the paperclip trick.

** BTW -- using the "paperclip" method is fine if 1) you are testing the mobo and 2) you know for sure that the motherboard is not grounding. Using the "paperclip" trick may by-pass the PSU's protection and ability to auto shut-off in the event of a short.

[mujahid7ia]

*Have you verified the POWER SWITCH connector from the case is connected properly? Of course, that is assuming it is in a case. If it is installed on the correct pins and still does not work, try this ...

Remove the power switch connector from the mobo and very carefully use a screw driver to "touch/short" the 2 pins briefly. The system should power up. Another touch and it will shut-off. If it works with the screw driver, then it may be a bad switch on the case.PSU/Mobo outside of the case.

Ok, Maybe the PWR_SW is upside down. Thanks, i'll try it.

*Make sure the mobo is not grounding out somewhere. Remove from the case if needed, to test.

Can screwing it wrong with the solder rings do that? I just discovered I was supposed to use those stand-offs. W/O being screwed to anything, can I test the mobo outside the case?

Thanks for the suggestions. Keep 'em comin'. LOL

[Ripper2860]

The case typically has stand-off's included and need to be used. Brass stand-off's are fine and are the one's I prefer. The look like this ...



Make sure that there are no extra stand-off's installed other than those required for each mobo screw hole. Make sure that the Stand-off's are postioned properly to correspond with each mobo screw hole. There should not be any extras and none should be in place where they do not line-up with a screw hole. A stand-off touching the bottom of the motherboard where it should not is a typical cause of the system attempting to power up and then powering off immediately.

Using any little red screw insulators is optional. I do not use them. If used, they go between the screw head and the top of the motherboard. Not on the bottom side.

As for the mobo being outside the case -- yes. You may test with it outsdside the case. The only delimna is the power switch cable from the case will typically not reach. Use a small screw driver to touch the 2 pins as described above in this case.

Just plug the ATX connector from the PSU in and have a processor, RAM and Vidcard, HDD (optional), and FDD (optional). That's all the connections you'll need. No connections from the case is required, as long as you use the "screwdriver" method to power the system on.

Hope this helps !!

[mujahid7ia]

Thanks; I'll try your suggestions when I get home.

Only 4th period

[Ripper2860]

A couple of more things ...

1. If testing the mobo outside of the case, do not set the mobo on anything that is conductive. Not on top of the case and not on top of an anti-static bag that typically comes with the mobo. Anti-static bags can have condictive properties. On top of the mobo box or a hardwood / laminate table is fine.

1. Also -- use good anti-static prevention methods. Don't work standing on carpet, and do touch the PSU while it is plugged into the wall prior to touching the mobo or other components. A anti-static wrist strap would be ideal, although nerdy !!

[mujahid7ia]

YAY! It worked by using the screwdriver to short the power_sw pins!!
Thanks, alot ripper, IOU. (also, i think the power switch in my case is fine, it was the grounding IMO)

Using any little red screw insulators is optional. I do not use them. If used, they go between the screw head and the top of the motherboard. Not on the bottom side.

Now, I'm slightly confused about putting the mobo on the tray. Does this mean I put standoffs under the places w/ holes and rings of metal solder and screw the screws into the holes of the brass stand-offs??? i have Upgrading and Repairing PCs 14th Ed. by Scott Mueller but it is not very helpful on this subject. I have brass stand-offs.

Also, is it OK to leave the mobo out all night (I don't have much more time today) in a plastic bag or something with the RAM and CPU/HSF installed?

Thanks a lot ripper. I really appreciate the help I receive on these forums.


*This is my 1st time build, so I'm a bit nervous about everything. When this problem first arose, I though I had cracked the die on my CPU. If I don't suceed on this build, my Dad wil kill me!
BTW, I do use an anti-static wrist strap. i thought you had to...

[Ripper2860]

Now, I'm slightly confused about putting the mobo on the tray. Does this mean I put standoffs under the places w/ holes and rings of metal solder and screw the screws into the holes of the brass stand-offs??? i have Upgrading and Repairing PCs 14th Ed. by Scott Mueller but it is not very helpful on this subject. I have brass stand-offs.

Yes. The stand-off's screw into the base/mobo tray. of the case. The mobo sits on top of the stand-off's and the screws secure the mobo to the stand-off through the "silver rimmed" screw holes.

Also, is it OK to leave the mobo out all night (I don't have much more time today) in a plastic bag or something with the RAM and CPU/HSF installed?

Yes. No problem. just make sure it is somewhere dry and where it is not in the way. Oh, and keep it away from any pets. Cats are notorious for being curious!

Also -- it is good that you use a wrist strap. It's always a good idea to practice "safe" computer building. After all -- you never know where your components have been!

[mujahid7ia]

Also -- it is good that you use a wrist strap. It's always a good idea to practice "safe" computer building. After all -- you never know where your components have been!

LOL and thanks again.

[mujahid7ia]

Didn't mount the mobo to the tray yet, but while I was running it on top of box, just runnin BIOS, i saw in the PC Health section that the Athlon XP 2500+ was running @ 90 degrees Farenheit. Is that normal/safe? If not, what can I do?

I'm running the HSF (Thermaltake Volcano 9) at full speed, 4800RPM, and applied AS Ceramique before installing. I think I applied it correctly amount-wise and placement-wise.

[Ripper2860]

That's fine. The max core temp as read by it's internal diode for a XP-2500+ is 85 degrees Celsius or 185 degrees Fahrenheit.

It will run hotter than you see now once in the case as it will not get as free an air flow and there are other components adding to the heat (drives, vidcard, etc). In the case the the heat is somewhat trapped and does not dissipate as quickly as a mobo sitting in the open. Under full load and when in the case -- you will want to keep it at or under 60 degrees Celsius or 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you followed the Artic sites instructions on applying your compound, you should be just fine. If you are not sure here is the site:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique_instructions.htm

Also -- this may seem really basic, but some folks do not know this and it helps cooling tremendously. So I will state it only as information ...

* Front case fans are intake fans and should be oriented to blow air IN to the case.
* Rear fans are exhaust and should be oriented to blow air OUT of the case.
* Side panel fans blow IN
* Chimney or fans placed on the very TOP panel of the case should exhaust and blow air OUT. (very few cases have these)
* CPU H/S fans blow down onto the H/S with few exceptions, most notably Alpha heatsinks.

BTW -- Motherboard Monitor is a great utility to monitor CPU and case temps in Windows. supports virtually every management chip used w/ mobo's and it's FREE !!

http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

[mujahid7ia]

* Front case fans are intake fans and should be oriented to blow air IN to the case.
* Rear fans are exhaust and should be oriented to blow air OUT of the case.
* Side panel fans blow IN
* Chimney or fans placed on the very TOP panel of the case should exhaust and blow air OUT. (very few cases have these)
* CPU H/S fans blow down onto the H/S with few exceptions, most notably Alpha heatsinks.

As a matter of fact, my X-Dreamer II (which I regret having bought) has a chimney fan, and a side fan, plus space for 4 more (2 Front, 2 Rear). I have one Coolermaster 2500RPM fan which I'm not sure of the placement, probably in the back cause the PSU is not great (Turbolink 350W, came w/ the case). The side fan comes blowing outward, I guess I'll have to switch it inward, because it's directly blowing on top of the CPU/HSF...

Thanks, I thought 90 F was a lot, but I guess not.

Thank you again for all your help.

[Ripper2860]

Either the rear or the front would be fine for that extra fan you have. However, I would put it as an intake fan in the front -- just my preference. I prefer to have a "positive pressure" case where the volume of air INTAKE fans generate is greater than the volume of the EXHAUST fans. Not necessarily the number of fans, but the volume of the fans. This is for 3 reasons ...

1. More cool air in the case effects the cooling of all devices
2. If there is more INTAKE air, there is more pressure inside the case and dust will not be sucked in via gaps between drives and facelplates along with other small openings.
3. Intake fans are less disruptive to the air flow patterns inside the case which is typically in from the lower part and out through the upper portions.

Heat will rise and your chimney fan coupled with a bottom PSU fan should be adequate for exhausting of heat. As you push in more cool air into the case, it will displace the hot air and force it up and out.