Ran out of audio inputs

[Catarro]

I have a receiver with three inputs but they are all in use now. I need too add another device but when I tried using a Y conector to plug two devices in one input the signal leaks and even if I turn the receiver to max volume you can bearly hear anything.
The solution is to use a Y conector that let the signal pass but not return, this way the signal would not leaq. This could be done by putting something in each input of the Y conector. The problem is... what is this thing that I need to put in?
Anyone knows?

[twonabomber]

get an input source selector, they have them at Radio Shack if you want a cheap fix. gives you three switchable inputs.

[KingJohn]

The problem is... what is this thing that I need to put in?
Anyone knows?

A "Diode" -------->>>------

[Catarro]

Well the diode is the answer. Could you recomend a specific kind to use. One that doesn't lower the signal to much.
I believe that puting a diode trough is going to take some of the signal.

[KingJohn]

Hi, well there will be insertion loss but not enough to worry about. As for the type Gosh its been a while IN4001 (UK) use to be popular.

You would need to look at the frequency response of these things. But could try any old thing to start with.

I use to use them for a AM to FM mod in CB radios years ago

Anyway pop down to your local Radio Shack/Tandy/Maplin store, tell them what you want it for, they should know.

Maplins has a online cd of what they sell. www.maplin.co.uk

A few things I found

Audio Switch Box
Description:
An extremely compact audio selector unit that allows switching between one of four stereo audio inputs. All connections to inputs and outputs are via standard phono sockets mounted on the rear of the unit, except input 1 where connection is via a front-mounted 3· 5mm stereo jack socket, thus allowing 'personal stereo' type units to be connected to normal Hi-Fi equipment. Selection is by means of four top-mounted switches. Recesses above the switches allow identification labels to be neatly positioned. The unit is supplied with one stereo phono to phono cable, one stereo 3· 5mm to 3· 5mm jack cable, a self-adhesive double-sided fixing pad and five identification labels.
Dimensions: 138 x 28 x 37mm. Colour: Silver.


Or this;

Auto-Switcher with Audio
Description:
· 4 channel automatic switcher
· Switches audio as well as video
· Numbered indicator lamps
· BNC video connectors
· Switches standard 1Vp-p video

All the features of the PP40T with the added advantage of being able to switch audio as well as video. Ideal for those who need to be able to hear as well as see.

Lots of diode's on there

[Wonderin]

A diode is no good in this situation. A diode is used to block signals in one direction yes, BUT audio is an AC signal and so you would only be passing the top or bottom of the signal, depending on which way round you put the diode. Also a diode would typically have a forward voltage drop of around 0.6 Volts...not much you may think but using audio at line levels the standard level gives you 1 Volts RMS...that works out to around 2.8 Volts peak to peak. If you only pass the top half through a diode you will only end up with spikes of audio that are above the 0.6 Volts level and the rest will be ignored creating a very distorted signal. Definitely not what you need. A 1N4001 is an excellent rectifier diode for use upto around 300 Hz...audio needs upto around 20,000 Hz. These diodes are best used in general power supply applications below 100VAC.

An audio switch box as reccomended above is what you need.

[KingJohn]

Ah yes, I remember now.. It wasn't the IN4001, we used that as a simple form of protection against reverse polarity. Plug the rig in the wrong way and it shorted out the fuse (If there was one). However It has been 20+ years since I delved into these things. It was the IN4148 we used for the FM demod, and relay protection.

However as already stated not much use for what you want, my second and third choice would be the best way, unless your good with a soldering Iron and a few component to make up a simple mixer. Why don't you route them around to the front, Creative labs have a great module for the SoundBlaster Live, inputs at the front and a lovely amp to go with it. Lot easier to unplug one and plug another in then