Hi,
Has anyone used the Inkjet Fixative Sprays they have on svp?
http://www.blankdiscshop.co.uk/sh000003.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eblankdiscshop%2e...%23a3560#a3560
If so, which is best out of the 3?
Im very interested in buying the R200 printer and one of those sprays from svp, also - any advice on which printable media to use? (Preferably from svp)
Thanks in advance![]()
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Werewolf,
What DVD burner and player do you have?
I've got a pioneer DVR-108 that loves the CMC.MAG.AE1 dye, but most people in this forum don't rate it at all. (I buy the DataWrite Titanium Hub Printables predominantly)
Its all about what works for you. At SVP they do DVD-R printable tester packs with 6 different disks. May be worth getting one of those to test before buy in bulk.
As for the fixative, I've been tempted to try this myself so will be interested to see if anyone has tried it. (I have a Canon i865 which I can't recommend strongly enough). The one thing that is stopping me is that they will only ship via Parcel Force which cost £5.50, almost the cost of the fixative!
Unless you are going to buy from SVP in sufficient bulk to off set the cost of p&p you may be better off going to a specialist art shop.
- e404pnf -
I also have the pioneer 108, and of course I will want the dvds to play in just about every dvd player.
Hopefully someone that has tryed the sprays from svp will reply, not sure if the matt, satin or the glossy spray would make it most like the original dvds?
If I do go for the Epson R200 or 300, do the inks run out quick? I would be buying the cheap inks, so is the quality still good from them?
-werewolf 8) -
I've used the glossy spray and when applied correctly it looks fine (nothing like a shop bought DVD though) However, if you use too much or not enough then they look SHITE.
He's a liar and a murderer, and I say that with all due respect. -
What spray that is available in the uk best for making the dvd look as good as possible?
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I quite like the satin finish spray - I've had no problems with the glossy stuff and I'm quite heavy handed with it too. It certainly seems to toughen the disc's surface - you can tap it with a finger nail for example and get a definite "click", but then most of the discs advertised as being "tuff" or armoured just have another top coat on them anyway.
The only issue I have with the glossy stuff is it can take a while to dry if you go mad with it. Several light coats work really well, but if you go at it like a bull in a china shop you may find dust settling on it or even "drips" making little circles on the disc. Gently waft a couple of coats and you'll be fine.
I've found putting the disc to be sprayed in a CD jewel case with a little tissue paper under the disc works well (to stop any overspray getting under the disc and on to the data side). Not only does it hold the disc still but you can then close the lid on the case to reduce contaminants like dust or fabric fibers landing on the disc. The jewel case lid never touches the disc and the air can still get to it allowing it to dry.
If you're using the silver inkjet printables I'd stay away from the matt finish because it has a fleck in it that looks like a load of dust on the disc when it dries. The satin spray on the white inkjet printables can look stunning if you're using highly saturated colours on your labels. -
Cheers for the info.
So the satin spray from svp will make the dvds look most like the original? (Will be used on white printable dvds)
Im probably going for these dvds:
Datawrite Titanium (8x) "Full Face" Printable DVD-R in Spindle Tubs of 50
ADVDINFO: CMC MAG. AE1
They good dvds? or can you suggest better from there? -
It doesn't matter what inkjet printer you use for dvd printing...dye or pigment ink...the best ink in the world!!! It will still run...Even Epson ( I have an R200) states that the ink will run off of DVD's if they get wet. I use Krylon spray....Glossy for that matter... I never have a playback problem.....I use a dryer sheet to apply the spray (You dont have to change the length of it but fold it so it's only an inch wide...It'll help the sheet asorb the spray).... I spray a little on the dryer sheet and then apply it in a circular fashion starting from the center working my way to the edge but I place the DVD in a dvd case before I start the application.....Very little chemical is required and after the first coat dries another light coat is O.K. but if you use too much the playback will look as if the movie has compression
Is what we learn indeed a fact, or someones opinon? -
Originally Posted by werewolf_02
Er... that very much depends on your original - I've got some where the silver disc and the title in 14 point Arial would like the original... but yes, you can tell the difference between a disc that's been sprayed and one that hasn't. I tend to find that the overal contrast of the image seems to improve.
As far as CMC discs go, they tend to fall into the love them or loathe them category. I'm a little jaded, I had problems with CMC a while ago and although they have improved I rarely use them out of choice. Some people like them, though - in the media list to the left there are some positive comments but there are too many variables to pigeon hole a disc like that. I haven't had the problems that some talk of with Ritek discs - they're still my weapon of choice, but SVP are also doing Datawrites (IIRC) that are Taiyo Yuden's if you want to try what some consider to be "premium" discs without forking out lots of cash.
This thing about water and discs amuses me - what are people doing to get their discs wet... ? -
Well water and disc's....Humm.....I say that alcohol works best to clean DVD's...(I make and sell them) But the term "Water" is an understatement on my behalf however "Fluid" be it water or alcohol (I've used both to clean disc's) is technically an enemy to printables so sealing the disc helps alot....I have yet to get a complaint.....$30 or $40 for a spray...Yeah O.K. Bill Gates...if you say so....." A large can of Krylon clear ultra-gloss please" $5.00 makes me about $500...Thanks! As for any suggestion I may post...You can take it or leave it because I'm here to get good advise and I feel that the least I can do is return the favor. I tend to wash( YEAH WASH ) disc's that may have been carelessly handled by another person that...Humm...May have been eating while handling it...or letting the Kids/dog handle it....or simple neglect....I do data retrieval sometimes or just backups.....I come across some disc that need to be put in the laundry! And just because "WE" may handle our printables with care doesn't mean we can't have an accident or leak that will expose our printables to water or fluids....not to mention the fact that my consumers may wet them or spill something on them and I'm not looking for a bad reputation...I invested too much into this business! :P
Is what we learn indeed a fact, or someones opinon? -
I've tried it ALL and to me, there is only one answer for each side of the disk. For the data side, I ONLY use PLEXUS. It's the only cleaner that is made strictly for acrylics and like products, it leaves no film, hides minor scratches and protects the disk during normal use. As for the label side, the Krylon Low Odor Clear Spray, which is a glossy LATEX spray is probably the best I've found and I've gone through 30 or 40 different types of spray. It gives a classy look to the label like the original and protects quite well. You will hear a lot about other stuff but this is what actually works. Don't use alcohol, windex or any other product to clean the data side of your disk. If you do, look at it a few days later and see how it looks. If you don't use the Plexus, use water and dry it very carefully. It's not going to do the job right but it's better than using some of these other things. These two items are what works, try what you want but put these on your list and you'll see what I mean.
(Sorry Mac but your alcohol suggestion is one of the worst things you can do.) -
Thanks Captian315, I used alcohol because it's the main ingredient in most disc cleaning solutions sold however I'm heavily involved in science(always have been) and you may wanna take a scientific look at the water part...Bad...why....what happens to Iron or brass after it gets wet and sits for a while? Rust? The surface of the disc is made of metal and if it's not formulated with Zinc....It'll oxidize and eventually rust....In DVD terms its called a CRC error( Cylic redundancy check)...this is error checking that failed due to corrupt information(DVD's don't really last forever) The material that DVD's are made from and proper disc care(maybe the Plexus)will determine the longevity of the disc.....Thanks again Capt.
Is what we learn indeed a fact, or someones opinon? -
Yes, I know. I was just referring to your washing the disks in water. It's a better idea than alcohol if you dry it carefully like I said. If you take a microscopic look at even a pressed disk, you will see that the metal particles rust even when they are not handled. A really good reason for making a backup of your favorite disks. It's also a really good reason for my using the Plexus I mentioned. It gives a little extra protection.
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I use Krylon Crystal Clear Glossy. It's pretty good for this. Lightly spray a couple coats on and it appears very much like a store bought finish. Its also acrylic with a dry time of about 15 minutes. There is another one that is highly recommended from Patricia Nemrock I believe though I haven't used it myself.
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How do you all spray the discs without also spraying the clear plastic part in the hub area?
I haven't started spraying mine yet; but I got a couple of cans of the Pat Nimocks sprays from reading the previous threads here. I am debating on whether to build some sort of plastic templates to cover all the areas that I don't want to spray, or simply stick some tissues through the hole and hope for the best... Logically some tissues (or even a towel?) under the disc would also help absorb the excess sprays should any get onto the underside... Does that sound about right?
BTW, where can I find these Plexus cleaners in the Brick & Mortar stores? A video store manager told me to use Formula 409 to clean the discs; but I am afraid to use that on printables -- so I'd like to give the Plexus a try. Thanks.
Spiffy -
Be careful about the paer or towels on the underside....Once you get the spray on the recorded surface It instantly becomes a coaster. Your better off using the technique I use unless your a painter and know how to spray without error. I never go wrong with the dryer sheet method because I lightly spray the sheet instead of the disc and because the disc is in a DVD case I don't have a good chance of messing up the recorded surface. Maybe you should try making 1 disc my way and then decide. BTW I get about 20 dryer sheets for $1 so I'm not wasting money not to mention I can coat about 10 disc per sheet by simply changing to an un-used part of the sheet. LOL!
Is what we learn indeed a fact, or someones opinon? -
macrovision, can you please describe your dryer sheet method in detail? The way I understood what you wrote, you don't actually spray directly onto the disc, and instead you spray onto the dryer sheet and hand-rub the spray instead? Wouldn't that cause more bleeding?
I thought the whole idea of spraying is to create a barrier, thus lock in the colors and prevent the colors to run.
Spiffy -
I take a one gallon paint can and drape a clean lint-free cloth over it. the can top is recessed so the disc weighing down the cloth gives a nice absorbative backdrop. I don't tape off the hub or anything. just spray at a slight angle, just enough to get a good spray flow, but not enough that you'll shoot the spray under the edge of the disc. The hubs look fine clear coated IMO, and I've never had a single playback issue and never had any overspray. The cloth absorbs it all and is rough enough that the disc can't stick to it.
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Well actually I dont press hard or rub... I fold the dryer sheet across so that it's still long but only an inch wide...I do this because it's very thin and the spray will go through it...Next I spray a short burst of Krylon( about 2 seconds long) this will be plenty...then I start from the hub going in a perfect circle widening as the disc widens but of course I'm not being rough....the lighter you touch the less ink will come off. I noticed that after I do a disc the dryer sheet has very little ink on it....Practice makes perfect but being afraid to try gives birth to defeat!
Is what we learn indeed a fact, or someones opinon? -
I have been using this fixative spray, I use the satin version and I find it gives a good finish as long as you dont apply it to heavily.
I find a couple of light coats is ample.
I got mine from 7DAYSHOP.COM here's a link to the site,
http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/normal_search_result.php?PHPSESSID=&keywords=GHIANT
I think you will find them a bit cheaper too.
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As I live in the United States, I use Patricia Nimocks Clear Acrlic Sealer (prefer matte finish).
After reading the other posts, here is how I have been very successful. I use a 50 disc cake box which comes with a clear disk on the top and bottom. I trim the center post down to less that half and inch.
I place a clear disc in the bottom of the tray, and the disk I want to treat on top of that. I then place the entire thing on an overturned cardboard box (love the big Clorox Boxes) Shake the can very well and do a couple test sprays on the side of the box to make sure the spray is coming out correctly and then holding about 12 inches and using a side to side motion, lay a gentle fog over the disk. Then Cover it with the cake box cover for about 15 min. I repeat 2 more times. To date I haven't had any failures, and the cake box can be used many times. -
DON'T USE ANY SPRAYS!!!!! I used to use sprays on all of my discs until I tried TY Watershield discs. They have a glossy finish and the results from my ip5000 printer look BETTER than the original discs. They cost more but are worth every penny. You can buy them from Rima or Supermediastore.
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