A New Photo Printer??

[Garibaldi]

I have had my HP Photosmart 3750 for a couple years now and frankly it just doesn't print quality digital photos. I've tried adjusting qualities and replacing ink cartridges, but the photos still look weird - over exposed, color variations, ect from the original image. I'm looking into buying a new printer that will actually print the photos from my digital camera as they should look. What would you recommend for good photo quality that can print larger than 4x6?

[jtoolman2000]

Any of the newer Epsons will do a brilliant job.

Now let me let a little something about priting images.
If you are using OEM inks then that variable is taken care of.
If you are using the OEM reccommended papers then likewise.
Images should be sent to the printer at 300PPI ( Don't use DPI that is incorrenct terminology and it only applies to printing as D = Dots / P = Pixels and that is what digital images are composed of )

Set you printing parameters to the highest qulity for the particular type of paper you are using
There is a TON of factors to consider.

Glossy papers absorb ink very little so an ink dot will not have as much spread or DOT GAIN as a more absorbent paper such as plain or even a high quality matte. You will actually get lower quality priting with an extreme DPI count off the printer ( not image ) on a matte paper as the "dots" will run together due to the higher degree of dot gain or spread.

You MUST profile your printer as well as the APP you are edtiting your image in. That's is whole new science to learn.

HP and Lexmarks use a thermal application of the ink onto the paper. That is, the ink is almost vaporized onto it. Their cartriges also contain the actual print head so whenever you change ink carts you are also in a way also changing the printhead.

EPSON and CANON apply their inks cold. The droplets are very distinct and circular. They also apply ink in variable size or volume dropplets. Very good for tonal variations.

I would go with an EPSON and then a CANON and lastly a HP.

I really cannot cover all you need to know but that should give you a bit of an idea how involved this can get.

[redwudz]

You didn't mention if you have calibrated your computer monitor profile for your printer output. I find it very useful to be able to view the photo as it will look when printed. Then I can adjust the photo in a program like Photoshop and be reasonably assured that 'what I see is what I get' when I print.

Here's a basic article on the methods: http://www.pcworld.com/howto/article/0,aid,110070,00.asp

There are lots of methods and tools for this you can find with a Google search for 'Monitor calibration for printing'.

[Conquest10]

As what redwudz said, you have to make sure you got a calibrated monitor and correct printer profiles. Also, there are certain colors a printer cannot print.

[jtoolman2000]

As a photographer for over 40 years and having worked at both the pentagon and for N.A.T.O photograpic labs, we always calibrated our source. But let me say that you of course are supposed to calibrate the source which in the case of computers is the monitor. That should not even have to be mentioned. To explain and hopefully make it as simple to grasp, think of a master image containing a strip of 12 steps from black to white. Opening up this image in whatever editor you use, in my case it is Photoshop. I have used Adobe Gamma to claibrate my monitor. If I can see all 12 steps in distinct increments. Using the eye droper tool in PS, I measure the level or value of the darkest step ( step 1 black ) and the lightest one ( step 12 white ) using the INFO palette I click on RGB to change to Gray Scale. The black level should be about 98% and the brightest about 2%. This tells me that my contrast and brightness settings are correct. If my black is like 90% and white is still 2% then my contrast setting needs to be increased. If my black is 100% and by white is 10 or higher the brigtness might need to be increased to bring it up to 2%. You have to play with the these two setting till you get the proper values between black and white. Once you have that done you worry about chroma values. Ideally you should be able to print this gray step scale and your printout should depict all 12 steps distinctly and best of all, it should be nearly neutral with no cast toward any color. You can spen $$$ in material and tons of time playing around and never get it perfect. The truth is you never will.

I use this method. I calibrate my monitor so it is as perfect as possible . I create a neutral document in PS having equal values ofr RGB. I print it and using my EPSON's print interface using the advanced color correction mode. I create through trial and error, conbinations of adjustments to give me as close to neutral a color cast as possible for that "gray" image. Once I get that, I go to fairly normal imge containing as many values and colors as possible . I print that and make adjustments to brightness and contrast in the EPSON's advanced color setting. Once I am as satisfied as I am going to be. The theory being that is can reproduce a neutral print tone from and image that was neutral to being with, the I should be able to reporduce any shift away from neautral thus I should be able to also reproduce fairly closely any other colro that might exist on my other image. Once I have achieved a correct print I save that setting as a custom profile which I can call up any time I need it. If I change paper types, I have to create a new profile for that particular paper. If I change ink, Ditto. If I change my editing rooms lightling, Ditto. If I chage the viewing conditions of the print, yoou now the answer.
Anything I change between the PC and the printer. will require new setting.

[rubberman]

i have the Epson R320 that has the built-in media card slots along with a USB port to plug in a camera or a memory stick. But best of all it prints directly on cds and dvds. Its made to print on a regular size paper and the 4x6 photo sheets. Damn happy with the printer.