I got a new burner about a month ago after problems described in this thread https://forum.videohelp.com/topic340812.html.
Anyway, it seem to be broken already as it won't read discs anymore.
My last burn went perfectly well since I use verify on all my burns nowadays, but that was a couple of days ago.
I noticed the problem after having a game crash, needing a reboot, during which time I left the computer to return about ten minutes later to find the computer stuck at the "boot from CD" part, since I had forgotten to remove the DVD from the drive following my last burn. When I removed the disc from the drive the computer continued normally, except now the DVD-writer wasn't working (it may have not worked earlier, but I noticed it now), and since the the crash was in an extraordinary fashion ("Just Cause" demo on Steam crashing to desktop with 4-bit color mode, unable to reset it until after a reboot).
I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the drive, updating firmware, and rebooting about a halfdozen times. I also booted up the computer with Puppy Linux, and the drive suffers the same problems there, so I know it's not a software issue.
But seriously, one month? I may have been a little harsh on it, burning 7-8 discs in a row on a couple of occasions, but still. Do I need to RMA this already?
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Originally Posted by budz
I use IMGBURN exclusively.
Any readable disc, CD or DVD, pressed of burned, fails to read in the drive.
I managed to get a little reading of a CD in Puppy Linux for a couple of seconds before the drive disagreed again.
IMGBURN stays on "Searching for SCSI / ATAPI devices..." for about a minute or two (used to be a second or two) before moving on to "Opening device" for the same amount of time before coming to the conclusion of "device not ready (logical unit is in the process of becoming ready)".
Good times..... -
I'm assuming when you uninstalled/reinstalled the drive the jumpers were set correctly. I'd say to try changing the IDE cable on the drive and make sure you use a 80 wire ide cable. What brand of media are you using? VERBATIM?
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Originally Posted by budz
The drive worked perfectly until today, and I doubt it's the IDE cable being loose, I pushed that in properly on initial install and they don't just pop out. -
Then that leaves me with a software conflict of some kind. Trust me I've had my fair share of failed IDE cables. When you say reinstalled I suppose you're talking about removing it from device manager. Look to see your drive is in DMA MODE and not in PIO mode. I asked what Dvd media are you using?
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Originally Posted by budz
Also, I checked the drive in Puppy Linux, an OS the basically reinstalls every time you boot it, shouldn't any software issues in Windows NOT show up there as well? -
I have no clue w/linux.
See this link with the drive stuck in PIO mode:
http://www.cdrlabs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6645 -
Originally Posted by budz
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I recently had a hard drive give me a "semaphore error". I replace the IDE cable, and it was fine again.
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OK, I have ascertained that the writer must be the problem.
I have tried uninstalling the IDE-channels and rebooting, to no avail.
The issue is also not with the actual IDE-cable, as I have switched places (physically) between my old cd-rom (master) and my new DVD-writer (Slave), making my new DVD drive master and my old CD drive slave, still same problem, indicating the cable was not the problem.
Also, after uninstalling the IDE-channels my CD-ROM was the only drive defaulting to PIO mode, previously residing in place 0, now in place 1, and PIO mode moved along with it. It only defaults to PIO mode, you can set it manually to DMA and it's fine.
I think I'm officially done with Samsung gear. -
Originally Posted by uNderdog_101
So you refuse to buy a new ide cable for the sake of testing the drive itself.
Good luck with whatever drive you end up with.
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Originally Posted by budz
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Originally Posted by uNderdog_101
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I use this method to reset the IDE channel:
To check DMA/PIO mode within Windows:
Control Panel>System>Hardware>Device Manager>IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers.
From there, right click on one of the channels and choose 'Properties>Advanced Settings'. All drives should be DMA mode. The 'Current Transfer Mode' for Hard drives is usually DMA 4-6 and DVD burners DMA 2-4, DVD ROMs usually DMA 2. If you see any in PIO mode, that can slow things down.
Changing them back may be easy or complicated. First see if you can change them in that window. If not, I usually uninstall the channel the drive is on and let the OS reinstall it. This will usually take a reboot and it should correct the DMA settings. If not, see if they can be changed manually. This will not damage any files on the computer.
If you are using the old IDE cable, I would spend a $1 and put a new one in. The wires can break on them and that can cause your type of problems. And of course, I assume you set the drive jumpers correctly or the same as the old drive? -
Originally Posted by redwudz
IDE cables don't just break spontaneously do they? I mean, they have absolutely zero moving parts, so wear and tear should be infinitesimal. -
"IDE cables don't just break spontaneously do they"
Yes, they can and they do.
The cables are twisted around in cases, and gravity/physics will eventually cause the wires to change under pressure. This is one reason tightly-pulled, twisty cables are a horrible idea. Even moreso if it's a cheapo cable.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
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IDE-cable replaced, problem persists.
I've done everything short of re-formatting the computer (something I did a couple of weeks ago and have no desire to do again so soon), I think I can now say for sure that the problem lies with the drive. -
Well, it's not a loss trying a new IDE cable. That eliminates one very likely possibility as to the cause of your problems and the expense is minimal.
Next, assuming all else is good, and JMO, is the power supply and then the burner. It seems strange you would have two bad burners in a row.If your PS is marginal, it could cause problems. It could also be a motherboard problem or even RAM, but a lot less likely. You could try the burner in a different computer. That would tell you the problem is elsewhere.
I am assuming you didn't get a bad burner. It happens at times, but with your other problems, less likely the cause of it all.
Sorry. Troubleshooting computers is generally a process of elimination. You eliminate all the most common causes, then work down the list until whatever is left is the probable cause. -
Originally Posted by redwudz
As for two bad burners in a row, I have only had this new one fail on me prematurely, my previous burner was several years old and had several hundred discs before failing. -
Is that ide cable a 80 wire ide cable? Did you buy that ide cable or did you just find one that was lying around? If you're not using a 80 wire ide cable the drive will not work correctly. Sounds like you just wanna RMA the drive then do so. Members here are trying to help you but if you're not using the suggestions made then buy a new dvd burner since they're so damn cheap these days. I have 3 SAMSUNG dvd burners, (2) S203B & (1) 183L all SATA dvd burners which all work fine!
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Originally Posted by budz
As for not following suggestions, the only suggestion I haven't followed is going out and buying a brand new cable, I used the IDE cable that came with my previous drive, perfectly virgin, straight out of the baggy, I believe it was a 40-wire one. -
Originally Posted by uNderdog_101
When a dvd burner fails to burn discs I go down a list of things to check before I decide to RMA it. I've had dvd burners fail on me then when using a brand new 80 wire ide cable I find out the drive wasn't working due to failed ide cable. This is why I stressed that you try using a brand new ide cable with 80 wire. Rest is up to you to decide. If the drive still doesn't work correctly even after you buy a new 80 wire ide cable only then will you truly find out the drive died a early death. -
"Popping down to the computer store" isn't exactly an easy option for me, the nearest shop being 20 minutes away by car and having to rely on others for transport. Add to that my schedule of being sound asleep during open-hours due to my schedule.
Shouldn't a change from a possibly faulty 80-wire cable to a perfectly fine 40 wire cable at least produce different errors, assuming the drive is perfectly fine? -
OK, then, a couple of questions about IDE cables:
Are all cables rated for UDMA133 80-wire? The site for the shop I'm getting the cable from doesn't say if it's 80-wire or not, only that it's made for UDMA133.
It looks like this: http://www.misco.se/Archive/Images/Products/elements/kablar_adaptrar/DEL-222/published...l-222_stor.gif -
Originally Posted by budz
DMA4 or UDMA133 is the one you want. -
IDE cable replaced with a brand spankin' new one, problem persists, drive obviously broken, back to the store next week.
If only I could find the damn receipt...
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