I recently purchased a new mother Gigabyte 7N400 Pro2 motherboard , AMP XP 2500 CPU, and one 512mb 400fsb DDR stick. I can't get my WinXP Pro to install.
MOBO info http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-128-199&catalog=22&manufa...=BROWSE&depa=1
Problem:
I Run the boot floppy's and then switch to the WinXP Pro CD-ROM. When it asks me to format and partition the HD drive, no problems. But when it starts to load the system files after formatting the drive I get erros like can't load files and to check my XP CD. It happens everytime and not always the same file. Sometimes it will get halfway through the load before the error occurs.
Tried:
I tried loading several times - same issue
I tried a 2nd HD - same issue
I tried differerent EIDE2 cable - same issue
I tried changing the CD-ROM slave/master status - Same issue.
I tried to load Win 2K instead of XP - same problem.
I disabled the RAid in the Bios - Same issue.
It just can't load the files.![]()
Anyone familiar with this board and if there is some jumper or BIOS setting? All CD-ROM and HD's worked fine with my old Abit PIII board. I only changed the MOBO, CPU, and DDR
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Not alwaus the same file - possibly optical drive or the CD itself...
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Still not working, Update
- Its not the CD becuase the same problem occured when trying Win 2K
- I used a new HD cable and same problem.
- Its not the CD-ROM drive becuase I tried my other DVD/CD drive and same problem.
Here is the exact blue screen error:
The file p3.sys was not copied correctly
The file setup placed on your hard drive is not a Windos XP system image. If you are installing from a CD, there may be a problem with the Windows XP CD.
I formatted it to NTFS during the partition setup after the boot discs and the initla CD run. Same thing I did sucessfully when installing the same discs on my 2nd computer which is the one I posting from.
NEED HELP!!! -
Some ideas ...
Set all BIOS options to safe settings or setup defaults.
If you are O/C'ing -- do not until you have completed the O/S install and verified all is OK.
If you are using 2 or more stick of RAM, remove all but 1 and try. If the error re-occurs, swap sticks leaving only one in the system.
** If you suspect RAM, use Docmem to test from a bootable floppy created on your working PC. http://www.simmtester.com
Remove any un-necessary cards from the system until the O/S install is complete. You can add them 1-by-one afterwards.
Make sure the H/S fan is installed properly and that the CPU is not overheating. If it gets too hot, L2 and L1 cache starts corrupting and returns error when extracting cab files. -
Still not working - UPDATE
I only have one DDR PC3200 512mb stick of RAM in slot1 so I moved to DDR slot3 - still problem.
Im using all Defualt BIOS settings, no Overclocking yet.
Tried formatting in FAT file system and still problem.
Removed all cards except AGP - still problem
CPU temp says only 58C from Bios, fan is working.
Loaded safe settings in Bios and still problem exists.
This a major pain!! Evrytime I have to run through all 6 boot floppy's before I can start the XP Pro CD-ROM just to find this problem again. I believe the CD is working becuase it runs through the initail partitioning and formatting into the start of the file loading.
Could I have a bad motherboard?? It recognizes the RAM and all drives at the initlial boot up. -
my XP didn't come with boot floppies.
Are you trying to install XP from a recovery disc that came with another Computer?
Usually won't work if you are.
If you have a retail Windows XP boot from the cdrom. -
Im using boot floppy's that I downloaded from the net, possibly from Microsoft but I can't remember. They have worked severl times in the past. I have a full version of Win XP Pro which needs a boot disc or alternatively first install Win 2K the upgrade to XP. But Win 2K has the same install problem and it doesn't need the boot disks.
This is killing me, Im not sure what the source of the isuue is, MOBO, RAM, CPU, BIOS, ?? All drives and cables worked fine with my old board/RAM/CPU.
Anybody know this error during initial install? "The file setup placed on your hard drive is not a Windows XP system image. If you are installing from a CD, there may be a problem with the Windows XP CD" -
You should set your BOOT order to boot from CD 1st, and boot from the WINXP CD -- not floppies. If you purchased an upgrade, you should still be able to boot from the CD and present the floppy when requested for validation. However, if you've installed before with the floppy, then I can only assume that it is not the issue.
58c is VERY hot considering it is really idle while in BIOS. This could easily be the problem. During the install process, WINXP de-com,presses files which is a very CPU intensive process. This causes the CPU to really heat up. At about 65-70c, the CPU will become unstable. I bet during the install, you are probably in excess of 70c.
BTW -- My XP2500+ idles at about 41c and it runs at 2.3GHz and 1.725vcore. Yours is just WAY TOO HOT !!
Make sure you check that you have heatsink compound applied, or if a thermal pad (as typical w/ the AMD H/S), that you've removed any protective plastic shield from the pad. Also -- sometimes non-AMD heatsinks have a plastic protective film on the H/S base that needs to be removed.
Is this new RAM? Are you sure that it is not bad? If it all looks OK and the RAM is new try getting a known working stick from anothercomputer or try running the util I referenced earlier overnight and see if it returns an error. This will tell you if it is RAM or something else.
My guess would be ...
1. CPU Heat
2. RAM
3. Mobo
Also -- what vidcard are you running. I had an issue where I could not complete the file copy w/ a GF3 installed, but if I used a GF2 I could install. Inserting the GF3 after the install, everything went fine. -
Im running a older nVidia TNT model 64.
The AMD Heatsink had a plastic cover over the entire bottom which I removed. The copper core has grey spongy material which is contacting the chip. Im running it with the fail-safe setting from the BIOS which is only 100MHz.
The RAM is new, my other computer uses the 164pin RAM not the DDR 184pin so I can't test it. The RAM I have is PC3200(DDR400) which is far above the speed Im running the CPU in the safe mode.
Any way to narrow down your conclusion of RAM, Heat, CPU??
I will try again with the CPU temp alarm set at 60C from the Bios and see if it alarms during install. Its at 49C right now at Idle. I have 4 fans in my case. -
Random thoughts and ideas ...
Well 49c is better than 58c posted earlier, that still seems high considering you are running at 100MHz.
Is your Processor a Barton (i.e. 512K cache and 166MHz FSB)? If so, there may be a jumpper that needs to be set in addtion to BIOS setting to run it at 166MHz FSB and have it perfrom w/o error. My mobo would post with the correct FSB in BIOS, but would generate errors when the jumper was not set. You should run the CPU at the appropriate FSB.
Is the Multiplier locked on this processor, or can you change it? If so keep the FSB at spec and lower the multiplier to the lowest it can go.
Your memory needs to run SYNCH (i.e. same as CPU FSB frequency) , as it can cause some issues.
The only way to eliminate heat from the equation, given you cannot load Windows, is as you are doing -- set an alarm in BIOS.
The only way to eliminate RAM is to either swap another module in, or run the utility I recommended. It will make a bootable floppy. Run the BURN-IN test for at least 2 hours.
The only real way to eliminate the mobo is to elimnate everything else.
There is also a possibility that it could be the CPU. Is your other system an AMD where you could swap processors and test?
Really out there ...
Does your mobo have a 4 pin P4 type power connector on the mobo? Do you have a P4 connector on the P/S and have it plugged in? Some mobo's provide additional power to the CPU via that connector and some require it. Other don't need it. -
I have both the ATX and 4pin connected.
I tried again with the BIOS cpu temp alarm a 60C and no Alarm, so heat probably is OK
The MOBO has a dip switch for running FSB locked at 100MHz or Auto. I tried both.
The MOB0 also has clock ratio setting which I would use to overclock it. I running the lowest. When I tried a higher setting it seemd to respond becuase when booting it said my CPU was now at 3200+.
I had trouble getting that RAM utility BAT file to write to the flopy on my other computer. -
I am confused !!!
Do you have a Barton chip? If so check and make sure you have the latest BIOS from Gigabyte -- it should not be showing up as a 3200+
This is the type of problem that will certainly frustrate someone to the point of pciking another hobby.
I'm out of ideas. It sure sounds like a hardware problem, just difficult to determine what.
You might try the http://www.overclockers.com.au or http://www.amdmb.com forums as they are primarily PC hardware sites. Probably more gear heads prowling about that could help. -
I have the BARTON 2500 chip.
It shows up correctly as 2500+ when I load the BIOS optimized setings. But when I tweak the clock ratio and the FSB settings (like for overclocking) it then goes to 3200+.
I just tried loading Win 2K (bootable CD) and it got 50% through this time before crapping out. -
IT WORKS NOW!!!!!!!!!!
I ran down to Fry's and bought another DDR400 stick and it works. So the problem must have been bad RAM. What a painful experience
Thanks for everybodys help -
Good! I can't tell you the number of hours wasted thinking "I must be doing something wrong" and it turns out to be hardware. It sure sounded like RAM. but hard to tell w/o testing or swapping.
Looks like it's time to see what this baby will do !!! -
Im a Newbie at overclocking but here is where Im at.
Defualt
Clock ratio Auto, FSB 166MHz, boot reading 2500+ = CPU temp 59C
Overclock
Clock Ratio 11, FSB 200MHz, boot reading 3200+ = CPU temp 63C
I have a program called EasyTune with is giving me the numbers. The temp seems high for the defualt 2500 setting. I will have to learn how to play with it.
Whats the Power Fan?? I have a reading for the system fan but 0 RPM for the power fan. -
That connector is designated for a Power Supply FAN. Some high-end PSU come with a FAN Speed sensor.
BTW -- you really need to lose the stock AMD H/S if you are going to O/C. Certainly not something you need to do now, but you certainly may want to consider an high performance H/S-FAN for the CPU. There are several that are very good and not too loud. I use a Vantec Aeroflow CPU H/S (quiet) and am quite happy. I too have 4 case fans and run at about 41-43c idle.
While your system has greater potential due to RAM and mobo -- here are my specs for comparison ...
Soltek SL75FRV (KT400) w/ AMD AthlonXP 2500+ Barton @ 2.3GHz (3400+) -- 185x12.5 and 1.725 vcore | Vantec AeroFlow | 2x512MB Kingston HyperX PC2700 - CAS2, Fast, 1T, 8W, 4-way | PNY GF4 Ti4200 128MB -8XAGP | Hercules Fortissimo II | Antec SX-1030 case w/ Tru430 PSU | 2x Maxtor 80GB 7200 RPM ATA133 | Pioneer 116 DVD | LiteOn 32x CD/RW | WinXP Pro | Prime95 23.7.1 Tested Tough -
I will look into a new HS.
My system temp says 44C and my CPU A is 59C
Core Voltage 1.72V
System Bus 167MHz
I assume that the system temp is the temp outside the CPU and the CPU A temp is the critical one inside the chip. -
You are correct. System Temp is read by a sensor away from the CPU and is supposed to signify the air temperature inside your case. Unfortunately, the temp is usually incorrect (reads too high) as it is typically near another heat generating source and not an accurate representation of system-wide temp.
As for the CPU temp -- yes, that is the imprtant one. The one thing I have been unable to tell from the PDF manual for your mobo, is whether the temp read is from a sensor in the CPU socket or whether it is reading the Athlon XP imbedded temperature diode in the CPU core.
You state CPUA temp, which inferrs that there is at least a CPUB temp. Unfortunately, the manual only shows one CPU temp in BIOS, so there may have been an update since the manual was generated. If there are in fact 2 CPU temp sensors, 1 probably reads the socket diode and 1 probabvly reads the CPU core internal diode. The CPU internal diode is the most accurate and the one you should monitor. If there is only one sensor and it reads the AMD internal core diode, the temp should be relatively accurate. If there is only 1 and it is reading the sensor in the CPU socket -- add 10c to the temp read to determine an approx. AMD internal CPU core temp.
** Mine is an 18c difference between CPU temp read at the socket and Temp read at the core -- 48c vs 66c at 100% CPU running Prime95! -
This is probably a stupid question, here, but why in the hell would someone who cannot install a MoBo CPU into a box trying to overclock the god damned thing from the git go?
Does it not seem reasonable to you that you should get the damn thing to run before you try the exotic stuff?
Set the BIOS to default ,basically safe mode, make it run, then if you have to say, ooohhh, oooohhhh, I gotta overclock, go to town.
Just don't waste our time with, well I'm running a 220 line into MY machine, it should run twice as fast!
No cheers, you seem too lost,
George -
** no comment **
Oh, what the hell ...
gamtov,
You are making a bit of a leap ...
He's not O/C'ing yet. He has a 166Hz FSB Barton processor and is running at 166MHz -- stock. At no time did he say he was O/C'ing and at no time did I suggest that he do so before he had things well in hand and stable.
I do wish you had continued to show the restraint that you had in your previous post. I guess you could not hold your tongue (or shall I say fingers) any longer. What a shame.
No cheers. You seem too angry and bitter. -
Ripper,
Go back to here:
Joined: 06 Apr 2003
Posts: 396
Location: USA
Posted: Jan 10, 2004 23:18
and read his comment.
That is an up arrow a dozen posts. Spmehing like "I got it up to 3200"
To you this does not seem like someone who cannot install a CPU and get the system running, but instantly OC's is a dependable source of info on boards or CPUs? You gonna use his log next time you got a prob?
Mebbe you would,
Cheers,
George -
Originally Posted by gmatov
Hey ya gotta learn the hard way sooner or later.
If your are going to OC , heat is the enemy. Ensure you have the proper cooling solution on your processor or the experience will be a costly one.
Just finishing up putting together my new machine myself : Abit NF7-S , 2500+barton(1800Mhz),Volcano 9 and 512Mb 3200 crucial memory. (among other things) It runs fine at 2100Mhz (11*192 fsb)with stock voltages & idle37C. In this config it will run Prime95 all day.
I have got it to boot @2350Mhz (11.5*205 fsb) but it locked up after about 30 minutes of Prime95. Temps crept over 45C. I don't like increasing the vcore due to heat but from memory it was about 1.8v
Until I get a better way to cool the CPU, I am happy with a 300MHz increase.
You should be able to achieve similar.
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gmatov,
I agree that there were points in which he was desperately trying everything to get his system running including adjusting his FSB and Multiplier up and down. He even tried underclocking initially in earlier posts (100MHz FSB) and had his BIOS at safe settings to no avail.
Granted this is not a "text book" example of how to put a system together and troubleshoot a problem. Not even close. It is clear, however, that the poster needed some help. That's why I tried to be as patient and helpful as possible.
I was a little taken aback that someone with your tenure and experience would make a post that provided no help and in addtion was mean spirited. However, I can see where reading through this thread could certainly be frustrating and could evoke that type of response. Your message re: getting a stable "default" system 1st, was a valid one. It was the delivery that was lacking.
BTW -- I've taken the liberty of reading some of your many posts, and see that you have a great deal of knowledge and have been very helpful to many folks here. Thanks for your contributions. I hope I have not made you angry, as I am sure I will need your help someday.
Well -- it's way too late here in the US and time for me to grab a little sleep.
Cheers and good night (or as may be in your case -- Good day !!) -
gmatov,
This is a help forum. Not an everybody is already a Bad-Ass like you forum. This thread was about trying to figure and fix a problem so I could bring up my system as a stock 2500. All hardware was insttalled correctly. All the tests performed through-out this thread including changing the clockratios/fsb were to help narrow down the problem. It turned out to be a bad RAM stick which I will be returning to Newegg. -
Ripper,
I'm not angry. My point was, get the damn thing running at design speed, then, you wanta O'C, go ahead.
Don't set it up for 20% O'C from the git go.
Machineman,
I wanted to help, but when I posted no comment, changed my mind, precisely because you were going at it in reverse. Get a stable machine first. If you cannot do that, there is something wrong with some part of your system.
With bad RAM, you are lucky to have been able to boot to ANY screen. I've had machines sit there and beep at me, no glimmer on the screen at all. I have enough RAM to switch it out to see if that is the problem, and did boot.
Next time, set the BIOS to "most stable" or whatever option you have, Default, whatever.
Do all your tweaking after you get it to run right.
Glad you got it going, anyhow.
Cheers,
George
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