how to minimize long focal length shaky video ?

[AAC]

I had my camcorder on heavy duty tripod with wired remote control to operate on/off and zoom in/out. Technically, my body didn't have any physical contact with the camcorder, or it's not windy outside.
However, my video was shaky when zoom in to the max lens focal length (optical not digital zoom). Was it caused by the lens movement or other reasons ? How to prevent shaky video when zoom in to the max ?

Thanks.

[smrpix]

Some older Sony camcorders had issues with electronic stabilizer motors in the lens when they overheated. Possibly you're mistaking auto-focus issues for stabilization issues. Other than that, it's something environmental -- a subway, cars, an earthquake, etc.

[AAC]

My one is Panasonic AG-AC 160. I was on auto focus with stabilization features On, does it matter ? Should I change to manual focus and turn off stabilization when on tripod, to get rid of shaky video on long focal length ?

[racer-x]

When on a tripod, you should disable Image Stabilization. Every manual will tell you that....................

[AAC]

When on a tripod, you should disable Image Stabilization. Every manual will tell you that....................

Yes, it's my careless mistake....
But will it get rid of shaky after disable stablization or there are other reasons to cause the long focal zoom in shaky video ?
It's on a sunny day when shooting the mountain peak from a park without subway under or heavy truck passed by.

[racer-x]

Switching to Manual focus will help keep the camera from "Focus Hunting". Very long zooms will magnify any movement inside or outside of the camera.

[AAC]

Switching to Manual focus will help keep the camera from "Focus Hunting". Very long zooms will magnify any movement inside or outside of the camera.

So... if I disable stabilization AND avoid long zooms will eliminate the shaky result ?
There is nothing wrong with my video camera or the shaky is normal in long focal length ? But I didn't find shaky picture on TV news or sport TV when there is long zooms to targets or players. May be they are using professional gears ?

[smrpix]

Long lenses magnify any shakiness. TV sports uses incredibly heavy gear and sophisticated $$$$ stabilization, of course they are using professional gear -- even so, it's often shaky.

If you want to post a short sample we can offer specific suggestions. Otherwise it's just generic advice.

[AAC]

Thanks for all suggestions. Enjoy a good weekend.

[Cornucopia]

Things to consider re: shakiness...
1. MASS - The heavier & things are, the greater their inertia and the lower the frequency of their shake
2. Distance - The closer things are (to a non-moving fulcrum), the less their torque and the less distance they can move
3. Influence - The less external influence (mass, force) applied to the device, the less it will be affected
4. Magnification - The less magnified your image (and greater FOV) the less noticeable will be the shaking

So, looking at those things in light of your situation, you'd see that, at some point EVERYTHING might be shaky with a magnified-enough lens (aka very LONG lens).
But, we don't truly know what you mean by "heavy duty" tripod, nor what the tripod was resting on, nor what kind of head you had on the tripod, nor how far above the fulcrum (ball) of the tripod your image is, nor whether you employed a "support" for your long lens or not.
You've already admitted that your stabilizer was on, but as was mentioned, stabilizers can only do so much AND the motorized, in-lens kind do sometimes have their downsides in the form of excessive (unnecessary) motion which would DESTABILIZE a long lens, particularly if that long lens or motor were not up-to-par nor already of the highest quality.
The turning OFF of the image stab motor removes 1 element of influence in the shaking.
However, depending on your lens, you may be experiencing a fault in its optics where the optical center changes with the zoom and/or focus. This effect would be more noticeable at greater magnification. Possibly replacing the lens with one of higher calibre would fix that.

You didn't mention using a support for your long lens, but very high quality TV studio, Sports and eCinema cameras often make use of rails, housings or other ways of adding additional support. It's not just about supporting the sheer weight, it's also about limiting the torque.

We can't give much more particular suggestions without knowing a few more particulars WRT your equipment setup. Cam model - got it. Tripod? Head? Base?
Also, does it do that for you when you (have stab turned off, and) AREN'T moving the lens? If so, unless you are using an EXTREMELY LONG lens, like using >600mm (35mm full-frame equivalency), something sounds faulty and/or non-professional/light-duty.

Scott

[racer-x]

Yes and to prove the point, here I shot the moon on my trusty t2i with a 500mm lens x 1.6 crop factor to yield 800mm (35mm equivalent). I used a solid Manfroto Trypod, No Stabilization and manual focus. It was a calm night, but you can still see some shake as a result from a car passing by.........