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  1. I'm in real need of some better lighting for filming (mainly) weddings. I currently have a 96 LED F&V light that goes on top of the camera. It's good enough but doesn't really give enough light in a big room. I've been looking at the following 800W lights on Amazon. Good price and seems versatile. But then I was reading somewhere that halogen lights may cause problems with cameras with CMOS sensors, like mine. I use the Sony HXR-MC200E.

    I'd really appreciate some views on this please. Thanks for your time.
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  2. Originally Posted by Funky Monk View Post
    But then I was reading somewhere that halogen lights may cause problems with cameras with CMOS sensors, like mine.
    Halogen works on the same principle as Sun... Never read about any problems with incandescent light sources and CMOS sensors.
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  3. DECEASED
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    Originally Posted by pandy View Post
    ......
    Halogen works on the same principle as Sun...
    Nuclear fusion

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  4. Originally Posted by El Heggunte View Post
    Originally Posted by pandy View Post
    ......
    Halogen works on the same principle as Sun...
    Nuclear fusion


    Exactly
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  5. Member Cornucopia's Avatar
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    Some halogen lights do have a high-frequency "whine" which will wreak havoc with the audio recording. Test out whichever ones you choose before buying.

    Halogen is usually brighter overall (for the wattage,money) but it can be possible to get more balanced, exacting whites with (good) LEDs.

    Scott
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  6. He's probably referring to light flicker (from banding) from the CMOS rolling shutter with partial exposures . You can get it with any type of non continous lighting, including incandescent and halogen. Cheap LED lights with no control mechanisms are a nightmare because they run at a completely different cycle

    This depends on several factors: The scan rate of the sensor , the electrical grid (e.g. 50 Hz in the UK), light cycling in relationship to the shutter angle of the camera. If you get a frequency mismatch (or a non evenly divisible multiple), you will get a flicker. e.g. 1/50 or 1/100 with exact 50Hz should be "perfect" .

    If you had a CMOS camera with global shutter, it wouldn't be an issue, because you get a full exposure each frame

    Some basic background info
    http://www.davidsatz.com/aboutflicker_en.html
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  7. And one important thing not mentioned: Halogen lights are hot. Led lights are cool.
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  8. Originally Posted by TreeTops View Post
    And one important thing not mentioned: Halogen lights are hot. Led lights are cool.
    They need to be cooled too - issue with LED is that they produce only limited spectrum - typical white LED is made form two colors - yellow and blue, white made from RGB LED is slightly better however CRI for good incandescent lamp is still better than RGB LED (good alternative for halogen are ceramic metal halide lamps - efficient and high CRI).
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  9. Member Cornucopia's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by TreeTops View Post
    And one important thing not mentioned: Halogen lights are hot. Led lights are cool.
    I didn't mention it because I though that was a no-brainer. Though, even LEDs and Flourescents are what I'd call "warm" not cool. Only thing that lights up that's "cool" is a glow-stick.

    Scott
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  10. Originally Posted by Cornucopia View Post
    Only thing that lights up that's "cool" is a glow-stick.

    So how was that "rave" Scott ?
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  11. OK, guys. Thanks for the help. I wasn't aware it was so complex. The high pitched whine might be an issue as I seem to be unable to hear high pitched sounds!!! People often say 'what's that high pitched whine?' and I'd say 'what high pitched whine?'

    It's all getting a little too technical for me, so can someone simplify it for me - using the Sony HXR-MC2000E (PAL, Europe) and the F&V LED (on-camera) light I seem to be able to get a decent enough lighting and have not had any banding issues. It's just that in terms of output it's not enough. So I need a better output and a more even light. The F&V light sits on top of my camera and follows the action, so to speak, and so the rest of the shot is darkened (I'm talking about situations such as a dance floor at a wedding reception.

    Using this set up maybe I should go for a 3 point lighting set up using 3 higher output LED lights on stands. I'm also looking to do some interviews and stuff where I can use 3 point lighting. It's just that having a small budget and SO many thigs to buy I came across some cheap, but good looking, halogen lights with a dimmable output that looks good. Maybe I should re-phrase the original question to:

    "Has anyone had any issues with a CMOS camera and halogen lights?"
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  12. Originally Posted by TreeTops View Post
    And one important thing not mentioned: Halogen lights are hot. Led lights are cool.
    Very good point.



    http://www.decoledlight.co.uk/led-spotlights.asp
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  13. Originally Posted by daz87 View Post
    Originally Posted by TreeTops View Post
    And one important thing not mentioned: Halogen lights are hot. Led lights are cool.
    Very good point.



    http://www.decoledlight.co.uk/led-spotlights.asp

    Never try run power LED without heatsink - this my advice - LED can be very hot and this heat must be spread efficiently - this is why each modern LED "bulb" put large heatsink.

    LED are cooler than halogens.
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    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_halide_lamp

    METAL HALID LAMPS are considered as the best quality light source for video recording, and they have a very high efficiency too.
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  15. Member Cornucopia's Avatar
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    No. Only for lamps that have been designed specifically with even/balanced, broad-spectrum output (that work correctly for both film sensor, digital sensor, and human eye), such as the HMI's.
    Standard metal halides such as those seen at sports complexes, street lighting, and car headlights would NOT be good. Peaking at wrong points of the spectrum, uneven throw.

    That's why HMI's cost so much - to fix the physics so they ARE good lights.

    Scott
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    Originally Posted by Cornucopia View Post
    No. Only for lamps that have been designed specifically with even/balanced, broad-spectrum output (that work correctly for both film sensor, digital sensor, and human eye), such as the HMI's.
    Standard metal halides such as those seen at sports complexes, street lighting, and car headlights would NOT be good. Peaking at wrong points of the spectrum, uneven throw.

    That's why HMI's cost so much - to fix the physics so they ARE good lights.

    Scott

    Believe me, there are specific types of metal halides only for video-camercas and video recordings.
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  17. Member Cornucopia's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's what I just said: HMIs.

    Scott
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