Best Buy should update its webpage from time to time....IMHO

[MeDiCo_BrUjO]

I was navigating through best buy's webpage, and I landed on the FAQ page for desktop computers.... boy did I get a good laugh out of it!.

Speaking about ancient times!.

I wonder how many suck... costumers have followed this crap of advise they offer....

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat12076&type=page&faqID=1043363105207&h=387

Desktops Frequently Asked Questions


Then what will I need for future RAM upgrades?
I'm buying a new desktop but I'm unsure how much RAM I'll need. What's an adequate amount of base RAM?
If I choose between Zip or CD-RW for removable storage, will my bases be covered?
Then what will I need for future RAM upgrades?
When selecting my desktop's hard drive, how do I choose between IDE and SCSI?
What size hard drive should I get if I'm looking for value without compromising performance?
I have to choose a monitor for my desktop. With so many choices, I don't know what to do. Is there a rule of thumb to choosing a monitor?
With DVD receiving so much buzz lately, I can't decide if I should pass over CD-ROM for DVD. Any advice?
What About CD-RW?
What kind of sound card should I select?
If the desktop comes with two run-of-the-mill speakers, should I consider upgrading?
Does it matter what kind of graphics card I get?




Q: Then what will I need for future RAM upgrades?
A: Be sure there are enough free sockets in your system to upgrade RAM easily. For example, if all the sockets are filled with 16MB dual inline memory modules (DIMMs), you could easily end up throwing them away when you attempt to increase RAM. In contrast, a system with one 32MB or 64MB DIMM makes it easier to add memory later.

Q: I'm buying a new desktop but I'm unsure how much RAM I'll need. What's an adequate amount of base RAM?
A: The more applications you run simultaneously, the larger the files you load, and the more complex your operating system, the more RAM you'll need. Too little memory can undermine a fast processor, forcing it to retrieve data from the much slower hard drive. For Windows 95 or 98 plus productivity applications, or a base-level Windows NT system, 64MB is fine; you can get away with 32MB in an entry-level Windows 95 or 98 system, but don't let anyone ever try to sell you a 16MB system. Because RAM's relatively inexpensive, many vendors throw 96MB and 128MB into many configurations as standard features — nice but not worth insisting on for most people.

Q: If I choose between Zip or CD-RW for removable storage, will my bases be covered?
A: These drives offer easy storage expansion, an essential means of backup, and a simple way to share files — as long as your colleagues use the same format. More demanding storage needs require larger drives, such as the 2GB Iomega Jaz. The advantage of these drives is that most standard CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drives can read the media (audio CDs can also play in standard consumer CD and DVD players), and the discs have a lower out-of-pocket cost.Copyright 2000, ZD Inc. All rights reserved. ZDNet and the ZDNet logo are registered trademarks of ZD Inc.

Q: Then what will I need for future RAM upgrades?
A: Be sure there are enough free sockets in your system to upgrade RAM easily. For example, if all the sockets are filled with 16MB dual inline memory modules (DIMMs), you could easily end up throwing them away when you attempt to increase RAM. In contrast, a system with one 32MB or 64MB DIMM makes it easier to add memory later.

Q: When selecting my desktop's hard drive, how do I choose between IDE and SCSI?
A: The vast majority of business and home machines come with IDE drives that plug into the connectors on the system's motherboard and require no additional controllers. They also offer the lowest cost per megabyte — around 2 cents for the larger drives. SCSI drives cost more than IDE drives on a per-megabyte basis and require the added cost of a controller card, but they offer greater expandability. (You can attach more devices per SCSI controller than per IDE controller.) SCSI drives are ideal for network servers and RAID configurations, but on the desktop, they can offer better performance with multithreaded applications under Windows NT now and Windows 2000 later.

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Q: What size hard drive should I get if I'm looking for value without compromising performance?
A: 8GB to 13.5GB are the best value: Drives this size give you plenty of room to spare. If your work involves heavy-duty image or video editing, consider an even bigger drive. If you're in the desktop PC bargain bins, don't dip below 3.2GB.Performance: IDE drives come in 5,400-rpm and 7,200-rpm flavors; server-oriented SCSI drives go as high as 10,000 rpm. Greater rotational speeds don't guarantee speedier performance, but many of these drives also pack data more densely on the disk; the overall result is generally better performance. Performance seekers may find the slight price premium worthwhile — if so, check out the benchmarks in system reviews. Don't get too hung up on whether the drive supports Ultra ATA/66, the 66.7MB/sec version of the ATA/33 standard. Most current drives don't even stress the limits of the 33.3MB/sec interface that comes in today's systems. (Note that you'll need an ATA/66 controller — not yet a standard feature on the core-logic chips in today's motherboards — to take advantage of the interface.)

Q: I have to choose a monitor for my desktop. With so many choices, I don't know what to do. Is there a rule of thumb to choosing a monitor?
A: 15 Inches — Minimum: Now that even under-$1,000 PCs are shipping with 17" monitors, it's worth the money to upgrade. If you can't afford the jump, just be sure to avoid older convex 14" tubes.
17 Inches — Best Value: A 17" display is ideal for working at 1,024x768 XGA resolution or for occasional stints at 1,280x1,024. If you need to buy the monitor separately from the system, note that you can do so for as little as $200.
19 Inches — Best Size: Although 20" and even 21" monitors have dropped in price drastically, 19" gets you more screen real estate for very little extra cost, size, or weight over a 17"; the price differential is under $200, and sold separately 19-inchers cost well under $500. You can view images comfortably at 1,600x1,200 resolution, although many monitors do a better job on image quality at 1,280x1,024.
The LCD Option: Consider an LCD if you're extremely short on desk space or want to make a fashion statement. Keep in mind that an LCD's display area is generally equivalent to that of a monitor one class size up; for instance, a 15" LCD would compete with a 17" CRT. Expect to pay about $600 or more for the upgrade from 17" CRT to 15" LCD.
Screen Size: On CRTs, you'll see two screen-size specs: one for tube size (say, 17") and one for maximum viewable area of the screen (15.8" or 16", for example). Don't get too hung up on it. Do keep in mind, however, that an LCD's display area is generally equivalent to that of a monitor one size class up; for instance, a 15" LCD would compete with a 17" CRT.

Q: With DVD receiving so much buzz lately, I can't decide if I should pass over CD-ROM for DVD. Any advice?
A: DVD is an increasingly compelling alternative to CD-ROM, but the lack of software means you won't miss much if you skip it today. That said, many systems come with DVD-ROM, and many users will find the extra $49 to $160 cost premium over CD-ROM a worthwhile investment to avoid obsolescence as DVD gains momentum. The higher-priced units generally include an MPEG-2 decoder card for improved video; get a card if your system is slower than 400MHz (though not all vendors offer the option).

Q: What About CD-RW?
A: The advantage of these drives is that most standard CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drives can read the media (audio CDs can also play in standard consumer CD and DVD players), and the discs have a lower out-of-pocket cost. You do pay a $150 to $200 premium for a CD-RW over a basic CD-ROM drive, however.Speed: Most of today's systems ship with at least a 32x CD-ROM or 4.8x DVD-ROM. In most cases, the number before the "x" refers to the maximum speed of the drive, not the speed across the entire disc. It has nothing to do with video playback, since video plays at a fixed rate, and most multimedia titles are tuned to work equally well with a variety of drive speeds. Avid gamers who install a lot of titles onto their hard drives or pull large images off the drives (such as detailed satellite imagery for a flight simulator) may see some incremental benefit for higher speed drives, but most users shouldn't worry much whether the drive says 32x or 40x.

Q: What kind of sound card should I select?
A: Unless you're using your PC for music recording or home theater, sound cards are pretty much commodities. A card that supports wavetable MIDI playback for more realistic music and sound effects on multimedia and game titles is preferable to one that supports only FM synthesis. Just about every system includes wavetable these days. PCI sound cards can reduce performance bottlenecks with some high-speed games, but don't get too hung up if the system includes an ISA card. Connoisseurs may want cards that support realistic 3-D sound and other sound effects with compatible games, such as Creative Labs' "environmental audio" or Aureal's A3D.

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Q: If the desktop comes with two run-of-the-mill speakers, should I consider upgrading?
A: If you go the DVD-ROM route, consider upgrading to a six-piece system (5.1) separately for the multichannel surround-sound effect.

Q: Does it matter what kind of graphics card I get?
A: Everyday Applications: When it comes to everyday 2-D graphics performance, even last-generation chips — or the generation before that — do a fine job. Chips such as the ATI Rage Pro, Intel i740, and nVidia Riva 128 are all reasonable choices for basic gaming and everyday computing, as long as they're coupled with at least 8MB RAM to handle lots of colors at high resolutions. Meanwhile, Number Nine's Revolution IV is known among professional users for its reliability and high refresh rates (which translate to lower flicker) at higher resolutions.
Gaming: Gamers will want the latest generation of accelerator chips, which include the 3Dfx Voodoo Banshee and Voodoo3, nVidia Riva TNT and TNT2, ATI Rage 128, Matrox G200 and G400, or S3 Savage and Savage 4. They'll also need at least 16MB RAM to handle large texture files and higher resolutions efficiently. Check out 3D WinBench 99 scores to get a good sense of performance and image quality, but realize that gamers have their own preferences. For instance, 3Dfx's 3-D-only Voodoo2 chip has a strong following despite some last-generation 3-D features, and some games have code written specifically for it. Super game systems will sometimes have the Riva TNT on the graphics card and a Voodoo2-based board (or even two Voodoo2-based boards for enhanced performance) for gaming.

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[yoda313]

13.5 gb harddrives?????? 3dfx Voodoo2????? Woah - about six years out of date I think