I searched for the answer before asking this question. What is the maximum recommended shrink % in DVDShrink for a movie copied to a DVDR for a good picture on a HD TV. I don't yet have a HD TV to test it, but I don't want to reshrink my movies when I do purchase one.
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Some days it seems as if all I'm doing is rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic
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Well, the simple answer? none.
the second best? As little as possible.
Other than that, all of the other posts here will tell you what they do, or simply state it's impossible to answer this question because it's a case by case scenario. -
As much as you tolerate the results of. Only you can decide what shrinkage factor you can tolerate. And it varies from disk to disk based on how good the disk starts out. For best quality resizing of file size, don't, don't shrink, re-encode with multiple passes and be prepared to spend lots of time compared to shrink to get really good results.
One disk may look fine after reducing to 75% and another look really bad at the same setting.
What's the best car, again no answer, Best price, best ride, best reliability, best resale, best power, IOW one persone best car might be a new cheap hyundai, whereas anothers might be a used Mercedes etc.
Good Luck -
Originally Posted by normcar
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I have a 42" Sony HDTV and a Pioneer DV-563A DVD player with progressive scan output. The disk that I have with the most DVD Shrink compression is about 54.6%, and it looks just fine on the HDTV.
I really don't think that it makes any more difference than it would on a regular TV. Maybe if you are expanding your less-than-widescreen pictures to occupy the entire screen, it might make a difference, but I doubt it. -
generally, it depends. I've got a 27 inch LCD, my DVD player hooked up to the component inputs and outputting progressive. The Seven Samurai ended up at 54%, and it looks like crap even with the deep analysis on. I usually use deep analysis if I have to go any lower than 85%, but it depends really. A dialogue heavy, low on action type of film can be compressed a lot and not be as ugly as an epic samurai film. It's all about opinion.
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Hey hexxisoft, I've backed up Seven Samurai as well, try using AEC at 'max smooth' for compressing a movie that long. It looked decent, although that was the movie that first got me into using DVD-RB. DVD-RB and CCE creates a copy that is excellent quality. I've heard that the newer versions of the Freeware HC encoder are just as good as CCE in quality at this point, so HC + DVD-RB gives users a completely free, high quality, '1-click' encoder for backing up DVDs.
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If Shrink has to do any size reduction at all, even 0.5%, then I use deep analysis and AEC. Once it gets down to under 90%, I usually slip over to DVD Rebuilder with CCE.
Given that most LCD and Plasma screens have poor edge definition and colour banding problems, 50% probably wont be noticed in most cases.Read my blog here.
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Steve, how do you get HC to work with RB. Also, can you point to where you found that results were good; can't search for less than three letters. I have looked at the site on doom9. Saw comparisons to quenc, but not cce. I am having lots of checksum errors with cce.
Another thing about quality and compression is the type of film beinf compressed. Some high quality films compress very well. Gainy ones seem to do poorly. -
Read my blog here.
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Sorry, didn't realize you needed the Pro to use HC. I payed for DVD-RB a few weeks ago as it's a great program and I was curious about the extra features, not to mention it was only $10. I'd read good things about the HC encoder at the DVD-RB forums but I haven't actually used it yet, maybe I'll have to do a short comparison between CCE and HC sometime.
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Originally Posted by archaeo
Also, many of you have to remember it depends on the size of the television you have. I've known guys who compress stuff way too much, but don't notice a difference because they have a small television, so they don't see the pixelization artificacts from compressing. A general rule of thumb would be if you can't see any problems on a 51" HDTV, you're probably going to be ok with whatever compression method you did.
Remember, we are talking about perception. DVDs are already compressed by the movie studios. Compressing it a little more, in most cases, won't affect the "perceived quality" of the movie at all. So, a 5GB movie being reduced to 4.3GB is not like we're directly losing 14% of the image quality, because if you can't notice the difference, then it's 100% just fine. Of course, this very much YMMV, because everyone has different tolerance levels. -
Originally Posted by winifreid
*maxbitrate 8000
*matrix qlb
*profile best
*logfile C:\Program Files\DVD-RB\test.log -
Originally Posted by steve2713NEC ND3500A/G
Unproper and proud of it -
Also animation DVDs, such as Finding Nemo, Shark Take, and the Incredibles
Computer animation is prone to colour banding if not compressed well.
Traditionl animation suffers artifacts around the edge lines in a manner similar to text in jpg compression if it doesn't have enough bitrate.
The banding might not be as noticable on a CRT, but certainly on a plasma (many of which have inherent banding problems in some colours anyway) this can be quite clear.Read my blog here.
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I've done a lot of comparisons between DVD-RB+CCE and Shrink. To tell you the truth at 400% zoom in Vdub, I could hardly tell the difference of which was which. I pretty much always do full disc backups. If I drop below 60%, then I just do movie only. I also see no difference with my 32" tv and my stadalone at 300% zoom. If and when I get a larger TV or HDTV, I'll prolly by then be using DL for everything and won't realy mind doing a 1:1 backup of the old ones. Plus by then DL's should be really cheap, because everyone will be using BlueRay/HD-DVDs.
Like my (S)VCD backups, I just tossed them and redid the backups on DVD
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