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  1. Hello. Many people state that low-cost media doesn't last, or become unreadable at times. I'm not so sure that this is only a low-cost media problem, but more so a CDR issue, and maybe how they are stored has a part in it.

    But whatever the case, I have a few questions.

    1) Is there anyone here that has stored (S)VCDs for sometime now without any problems with future playback, meaning months or years, and how to you store them - in their own individual cases, soft sleeves, etc

    2) Does anyone store their discs longterm in those semi-locking plastic cases that a 25, or 50 count spindle comes in, such as what TDK, Philips or any of the other companies use. And if so, do you have them stored on top of one another with or without labels on the faces? And do you think that the ink from the label resting on the recording surface of the adjacent CDR can cause damage to the disc? If anyone has stored labeled discs this way, please let me know, and for how long. I'm curious if a longterm exposure to that ink would affect the discs.

    Thanks.


    5x5
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  2. No comments on this? No one keeps their VCDs? Everyone only using CDRW?


    5x5
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  3. I have VCDs up to two years old. There have been no problems.

    I generally keep them in either single or dual jewel cases.

    I generally only use good quality media (e.g., Kodak).

    Don't know about the label thing. I don't think it should matter as the "recording" surface of a CD-R is in fact the tough one (this is where the polycarbonate platter is).

    Regards.
    Michael Tam
    w: Morsels of Evidence
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  4. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Puerto Rico, USA
    Search Comp PM
    Hi, 5x5!
    I store my VCDs in individual cases and in spindles with or without labels and the only problem I've got in 2 years was with the Pengo brand. They became almost transparent and damaged. Those were stored in their plastic cases. I blame the inferior quality of that brand.
    I've read that those made in Japan are of superior quality. Check the cases or spindles for the manufacturing country. Some brand names contract third party manufacturers in other countries for some of their batches and the product is said to be inferior. So, you can find some Brand X made in Japan and some of the same Brand X made in other countries.
    Good Luck!
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  5. I had similar concerns, and was able to come up with the following information, hopefully some of it may be useful to you:

    1. The longevity of CD/CD-Rs has not been conclusively been proven, since they simply haven't been around long enough. Only accelerated-aging tests of questionable reliability have been performed.

    2. CD-Rs are believed to last anywhere from 10 - 300 years. Manufacturers tend to exaggerate, but 30 - 50 years is generally considered a safe bet. (Pressed CDs supposedly should last 100+ years).

    3. Certain dye types and reflective layers should last longer. If I recall correctly, phthalocyanine dye based discs (nearly colorless dye) are supposed to have the greatest archival life. This dye is used in Kodak Gold discs and Fujifilm discs, both of which are rated well for longevity. Gold reflective layers I think are also supposed to be better due to different corrosion properties, but I'm not as sure of that one.

    4. Certain types of markers and labels can seriously damage a disc because they can corrode the protective layers and eventually damage the data layer. Another risk is that labels can overheat (some players run very hot in case you never noticed) and melt, causing damage to the disc. If you want to be absolutely sure, only use products that are rated CD-safe. Even better yet, if you have money to burn, label your discs using a silkscreen printer.

    5. As would be expected, avoid excessive light exposure, temperature extremes and moisture (note that this would include high humidity).
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  6. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Canada
    Search Comp PM
    Hi,

    Don't know about the label thing. I don't think it should matter as the "recording" surface of a CD-R is in fact the tough one (this is where the polycarbonate platter is).
    The (burning) chemical layer is much closer to the "top" side than the burning side and can be easily damaged by scratches or dents on the top side or by chemicals getting through the top side protective layer.

    Allan
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