GV-USB2 capture range

[Brad]

I took my ATI USB 600 apart hoping to find a component that was scorched by the power surge and could be replaced, but it all looked fine to me, so I'll be selling it for parts.
[...]

To close this out, I thought you all might like to see some high res pictures I took of the inside of my ATI USB 600 while I had it opened up trying to fix it. It's interesting to see what components were used to make this great little device.


[Attachment 85851 - Click to enlarge]


[Attachment 85852 - Click to enlarge]

R.I.P. ATI USB 600

Thanks for the great photos! I see it actually consists of two separate PCBs soldered together. Did you de-solder the top board to check whether anything underneath was "scorched"?

[theseeker2]

I took my ATI USB 600 apart hoping to find a component that was scorched by the power surge and could be replaced, but it all looked fine to me, so I'll be selling it for parts.
[...]

To close this out, I thought you all might like to see some high res pictures I took of the inside of my ATI USB 600 while I had it opened up trying to fix it. It's interesting to see what components were used to make this great little device.


[Attachment 85851 - Click to enlarge]


[Attachment 85852 - Click to enlarge]

R.I.P. ATI USB 600

Thanks for the great photos! I see it actually consists of two separate PCBs soldered together. Did you de-solder the top board to check whether anything underneath was "scorched"?

I considered it, as I do have a soldering iron and have soldered replacement capacitors before, but I wasn't sure where to desolder to take the two boards apart. I guess it would just be a matter of identifying the appropriate solder points and heating up the solder with my soldering gun and carefully removing things. Any tips?

[theseeker2]

Both text and images from VHS were a slight bit clearer on the ATI USB 600 vs. the GV-USB2, and although it's a small difference it was noticeable.

Post some samples!

I will try to do that after I get my older model VC500. Then I can compare all three

[Brad]

I see it actually consists of two separate PCBs soldered together. Did you de-solder the top board to check whether anything underneath was "scorched"?

I considered it, as I do have a soldering iron and have soldered replacement capacitors before, but I wasn't sure where to desolder to take the two boards apart. I guess it would just be a matter of identifying the appropriate solder points and heating up the solder with my soldering gun and carefully removing things. Any tips?

I could be wrong, but it looks like they're held together by 14 pins. On the board marked TOP REV:1.1 these are on the top-right above C51 (strip of 7 pins) and bottom-middle below R7 and L4 (the other 7 pins). I don't see anything else that is through-hole between both PCBs.

Getting them apart is simple. Getting them back together could be a bit harder.

With a solder-sucker and maybe solder wick, I would suggest:

1. Add flux to joint.
2. Heat joint.
3. Add fresh solder.
4. Suck/wick up as much solder as possible.
5. Repeat all steps as necessary.

You may be able to remove enough solder that they're no longer attached. Or there may be small, stubborn amounts left that keep them joined. If you can't get all the solder removed after multiple attempts, you could use the largest tip you have and try to heat all of the pads at once by quickly dragging the iron back and forth across all 7 while lifting the PCB slightly (first slightly left, then slightly right, etc).

Just my thoughts. There are other techniques too. I'm sure there are YouTube videos out there by experts.

[theseeker2]

Brad, I spent a couple evenings trying to desolder the boards from each other but it proved too much for my limited soldering abilities. Since the thing doesn't work anyway, I decided to just disassemble it so you could see what the inner part looks like. Looks like the part of the board near the micro USB port was scorched, everything else looks fine.

It's a little hard to see, but note the highly vaunted Texas Instruments TVP5150 chip between the two EMPIA chips on the lower part of the board in the first picture. Hope you all can learn from my mistake


[Attachment 85940 - Click to enlarge]


[Attachment 85941 - Click to enlarge]

[Brad]

Brad, I spent a couple evenings trying to desolder the boards from each other but it proved too much for my limited soldering abilities. Since the thing doesn't work anyway, I decided to just disassemble it so you could see what the inner part looks like. Looks like the part of the board near the micro USB port was scorched, everything else looks fine.

Wow! Thanks for all the effort. Much obliged!

So you had to snip other metal bits? The USB-A jack had supports attached to both boards?

Is that Kapton tape from the factory? (below EM2882)

In the 2nd photo, what caused all those deep scratches in the green solder mask revealing copper?

Shame about the scorched "micro USB" (their "proprietary" analog adapter cable input). I have replaced components on boards that looked worse than this, though.