I am ready to rip my hair out need help capturing video from Camcoder

[poisondeathray]

It means no lagarith encoding drops, but upstream device drops

search the log for "drop" ; you'll see lines like the

NT= 43565(Drop), Total=18

When you double rate deinterlace, or examine fields, you can see the jumps in motion

Here is an example of one

[MrKool]

It means no lagarith encoding drops, but upstream device drops

search the log for "drop" ; you'll see lines like the

NT= 43565(Drop), Total=18

When you double rate deinterlace, or examine fields, you can see the jumps in motion

Here is an example of one

So I see 18 dropped frames out of 1097 is that true or am I reading it wrong?

[Alwyn]

MrKool, that looks pretty good to me. I did spot a "jump" at frame 542 to 543 (teddy bear pan) and 712 to 713 (bed head). The movement is a bit more than the movement either side.

If you've got Virtual Dub working yet, open your file and drag the play marker/cursor along to those frames then step frame by frame with the arrow keys.

If no frames are being reported as dropped, I'd do another capture just around that area and see if it's on the tape.

Of course, it all depends on what setting your Care Factor dial (CFD) is on!

A more major issue is the wavy frame, particularly in the upper half of the frame. When it's playing, have a look at the black edges; in a good capture, they will be straight and steady. This manifests itself at times: the frame of the bed wobbles about a bit.

This thankfully is easily fixed by getting a Panasonic ES-10 or ES-15 DVD recorder and running your video signal through it to your Dazzle. This stabilises the video (stops that waviness) and will also help improve the image a bit. It may well stop the drops too. The DVD part doesn't need to be working and it's best to use an S-video cable from the ES to the Dazzle.

While you can crop away the wobbly sidebars, the wonky door frame might be an annoyance depending on the CFD.

[poisondeathray]

So I see 18 dropped frames out of 1097 is that true or am I reading it wrong?

That's what it reports. I don't know how accurate it is, or if it missed reporting any. The line above lists the frame number (double it for the bobbed frame number, or the field number)

[MrKool]

MrKool, that looks pretty good to me. I did spot a "jump" at frame 542 to 543 (teddy bear pan) and 712 to 713 (bed head). The movement is a bit more than the movement either side.

If you've got Virtual Dub working yet, open your file and drag the play marker/cursor along to those frames then step frame by frame with the arrow keys.

If no frames are being reported as dropped, I'd do another capture just around that area and see if it's on the tape.

Of course, it all depends on what setting your Care Factor dial (CFD) is on!

A more major issue is the wavy frame, particularly in the upper half of the frame. When it's playing, have a look at the black edges; in a good capture, they will be straight and steady. This manifests itself at times: the frame of the bed wobbles about a bit.

This thankfully is easily fixed by getting a Panasonic ES-10 or ES-15 DVD recorder and running your video signal through it to your Dazzle. This stabilises the video (stops that waviness) and will also help improve the image a bit. It may well stop the drops too. The DVD part doesn't need to be working and it's best to use an S-video cable from the ES to the Dazzle.

While you can crop away the wobbly sidebars, the wonky door frame might be an annoyance depending on the CFD.

I would spend the money and get the DVD recorder but it is NTSC only and I got PAL video

[Alwyn]

Of course. Better wait for advice from our DVD recorder/PAL>NTSC wizards.

Or... depending on how many tapes you have to do, get one (or similar) from across the pond.

@Lordsmurf might have one...

[Alwyn]

My Aussie ES15 is selectable PAL<>NTSC. Maybe the USA ones are only NTSC.


[Attachment 72571 - Click to enlarge]

[Sharc]

I counted 6 drops in a quick scan of the OP's video. There are probably more .....
If the OP has an USB 3.0 external HDD at hand he could make a test capturing to that external drive. It MAY help.

[lollo]

So I see 18 dropped frames out of 1097 is that true or am I reading it wrong?

It is true, and poisonedathray already gave you the right indications.

In the log file you have the exact position of where the frames have been dropped.

VT=  3084(  77f), Cap= 4564f(550D), Enc= 3.705ms, Siz= 303KB( 37%)KEY, Drp=0, (+)0, (-)0, o
NT=  3084(Drop), Total=1
VT=  3160(  78f), Cap= 4566f(550D), Enc= 3.732ms, Siz= 305KB( 37%)KEY, Drp=0, (+)0, (-)1, o

The first drop appears between frame 77 and 78.

VT=  7727( 192f), Cap= 4680f(550D), Enc= 3.779ms, Siz= 323KB( 39%)KEY, Drp=0, (+)0, (-)1, o
NT=  7727(Drop), Total=2
VT=  7800( 193f), Cap= 4682f(550D), Enc= 3.918ms, Siz= 321KB( 39%)KEY, Drp=0, (+)0, (-)2, o

The second drop appears between frame 192 and 193. And so on.



A proper captures feature 0 inserted frames and 0 dropped frames. You can accept very few inserted frames because the A/V synch is kept. You cannot accept dropped frames because A/V synch will be problematic (1 or 2 dropped frames in 1 hour capture is somehow ok).

[MrKool]

ok did back-to-back captures don't see any dropped frames. I only see dropped frames if i press forward or rewind on the camera while capturing otherwise normal play speed i get 0 drops.

[Sharc]

.... I only see dropped frames if i press forward or rewind on the camera while capturing ....

OMG you should not do this
You better stop the capturing when you forward or rewind the tape, and start a new capture at the new position. At each start/stop position it is likely to produce a (few) garbled frames until the process (for example the tape speed) has stabilized.

One should capture the full tape, or sections of the tape, and do the removal of unwanted material and other editing taks in post processing, using an editor.

[MrKool]

.... I only see dropped frames if i press forward or rewind on the camera while capturing ....

OMG you should not do this
You better stop the capturing when you forward or rewind the tape, and start a new capture at the new position. At each start/stop position it is likely to produce a (few) garbled frames until the process (for example the tape speed) has stabilized.

One should capture the full tape, or sections of the tape, and do the removal of unwanted material and other editing taks in post processing, using an editor.

oh i get that i was getting frame drops even if i was not capturing but viewing it on the Amartec i always capture the whole tape. Also i was trying to capture specific parts that showed motion and colors etc. thus the reason for forward and reverse.

[Alwyn]

@Mr Kool, these are getting better. Well done. I don't see that upper band any more.

You really do need a stabiliser though. The waviness is accentuated by the vertical curtains. If that waviness wasn't there, it would be looking really good IMO.

Nothing wrong with a bit of FF and REW to keep the system honest! I actually do this at times when I can't be bothered setting up a new file.