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  1. Member
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    After quite a long break, I'm back at this game again to get some information regarding picture setup of some very, VERY nice S-VHS VCRs that I was graciously donated by an anonymous source.

    The models I have acquired are all Panasonic and they are as follows:

    1. Panasonic AG-DS840 (No remote)
    2. Panasonic AG-DS850 (No remote)
    3. Panasonic AG-1970 (Including Remote)

    As the top two models require BNC connectors for most outputs, I have not gotten far into the process of setting up their functions, though I can indeed confirm that both output video signals via the monitor output and output audio from a ridiculous setup in which I plugged a headphone to 3.5mm adapter into my speakers, but hey, whatever works for the time being until I get more cables.

    I have confirmed that the character display and just about every function required for operation works even without the remote, as the dial mode can be set to perform functions that the remote was supposed to be able to handle. This makes it cumbersome, but still doable. So at the moment I am encountering some interesting problems with picture output which I'm not entirely sure how to resolve. I am only able to get video out from the monitor output and corresponding component and composite outs, though I only have one cable to test each with. I can't seem to get any signal from S-Video, but I'm probably missing something somewhere.

    I have attempted to set the TBC on each machine, but I don't really know what I'm doing and thus the picture doesn't come out clearly on either unit. On the 850, I keep adjusting the picture, which is still visible, but I only seem to get cyan/magenta as color and some various shades of black and white underneath that, and the story on the 840 is much the same. Thus far, I have only attempted to adjust the picture through my GV-USB2 card and not on an actual television, though I will attempt that as my next course of action.

    I have not tested out the 1970 as of yet, though I am more familiar with how to operate this model and I was assured by my donor that if nothing else, I could sell these units on for parts or as-is if I couldn't get them to work in a satisfactory manner, he just didn't want to see them again and I was more than happy to take all of them. I can't elaborate any further than that.

    I'll try and provide any other information as requested, I'll probably post some videos on my YouTube channel detailing my escapades and have them linked here later.

    Note that I am aware that the 840 and 850 were only designed to play SP tapes and that some of my problems may be related to the fact that not all of the tapes in my collection are SP, as most of them are consumer tapes with movies and such on them. If nothing else, is it possible for me to just use these units as TBCs when playing from a separate unit going into them?

    I'd very much appreciate any advice or information.

    Thanks.

    -MarioGuy789
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  2. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Those decks are probably run into the ground by now, lots of issues.
    The 1970 can have bad caps like the 1980.

    I'd be more tempted to start with the 1970. Because it working, or not working, may be a tell on the condition and performance of the others in the lot.

    The TBCs do now work in passthrough, no, just on playback of a tape.
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  3. Haven't used them myself, but from other users reports, those AG-DS8x0 are chock full of SMD Electrolytic capacitors that tend to go bad, so if they haven't been recapped at some point that could be be one cause of the issues you are seeing.
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    I am pleased to report that the AG-1970 seems to have no issues whatsoever, though the issues regarding the 8x0 decks remain unsolved. I have tested all of the decks with my television with the same tape, and the two 8x0 decks have similar issues but in different ways.

    The 840 seems to produce what appear to be "still frames" of video out through both S-Video ports.
    The 850 produces a bunch of green garbage on screen when a tape is inserted, though when first powered on there's a huge mess of redish-magenta coming through the S-Video out.

    I am hesitant to clean or attempt repairs on these units, as I certainly wouldn't know how to go about that, though again if they end up being completely useless to me, at least I got good scrap money and one perfectly working VCR.
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  5. Formerly 'vaporeon800' Brad's Avatar
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    My AG-DS555 with bad caps worked better after warming up: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/news/7106-ebay-attempts-buy.html#post49153

    This guy replaced a bunch of caps on his; if you skip around the video you can see how bad the playback was at each stage and then the final working result: https://youtu.be/xAApY2eNLzQ
    My YouTube channel with little clips: vhs-decode, comparing TBC, etc.
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  6. My first thought is what smurf said. I wouldn't trust any of those old decks without a full refurb. They might play but whether the image you're getting is correct or the best possible is a huge question. If those landed in my lap i'd sell it all for parts and pick up another AG1980.
    Last edited by nicholasserra; 19th Aug 2021 at 17:48.
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  7. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    A "good" AG-1970 also isn't great. Lots of noise, no real NR, even less than what consumer decks have (hidden/unchangeable settings).

    I have one, but for tapes that just reject JVC or AG-1980, or in a rare instance where tapes are actually harmed by NR. It's at least a 6th choice deck.

    I think "scrap money" (resell as reburb/parts fodder), and 1 decent deck, is the right call here.

    Recapping a VCR also isn't my thing. MS took my finer dexterity, I can't control soldering tools anymore.
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  8. Member
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    Coming back again after another extended break, didn't realize this much of a conversation had developed.

    To address a few points:

    At this point, yes, I am looking to sell at least the DS840 and DS850, seeing as I've made no further progress on either of them and don't intend to. I may keep the 1970 for just a bit longer, seeing as the other JVC deck I have has ingestion and ejection problems.

    As far as I've seen, the AG-1980 is a very desirable deck amongst a lot of people, not just here, but consistently everywhere else I've lurked. Of course, the cheapest (and pretty much only one) I've been able to find is about $650, not accounting for the fact that I may need to service it also. On that matter, I might as well go for the gusto here if I can find one eventually.

    On the value of scrap money, what would be a conservative estimate of all three units in their current conditions? All of them are cosmetically fine, but the two DS units are missing their remotes and of course they have video output problems which I cannot further diagnose. Both of their character display outputs work fine, and I would PRESUME that the TBC and other front panel controls work as intended, as far as I've been able to test. As I said before, the AG-1970 appears to have no problems whatsoever, but I've not checked too extensively. In addition to these three decks, I am in possession of a JVC (Victor of Japan) HM-DHX1 NTSC-J with no discernable problems except the tape mechanism, and a standard Toshiba W-512 also with no discernable problems. Both of these decks and the 1970 all have their remotes.

    If anyone can give me information regarding all of this, I'd very much appreciate it.
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  9. Originally Posted by MarioGuy789 View Post
    On the value of scrap money, what would be a conservative estimate of all three units in their current conditions?
    Cosmetically nice AG-1970 in proper fully operational condition (including a bright readable front panel display) fetches between $99 and $250 on eBay depending on scarcity any particular week.

    The other two Panasonics are boat anchors not worth the trouble of selling. Drop them back to the donor (if a school or commercial business) so they can be routinely disposed of at no cost to you. These "pro" Panasonic behemoths are worth several hundred if working perfectly, but with defective electronics no one wants them because they're virtually unrepairable (some guy on youTube notwithstanding: most buyers want a deck that has at least one known-good professional repair tech still in business).

    Shipping on these heavy decks is outrageous today, and with eBay's current seller-hostile policy even if you clearly list them in non-functional, as-is condition some clown can change his mind, insist on a return, and you'll be out the shipping cost both ways. No upside in trying to sell a dysfunctional Panasonic 8xx series VCR. EDIT: while in principal I agree with nicholasserra (below) about harvesting rare parts from these beasts before junking them, its only worthwhile if you personally need the parts and know how to repair the VCR. Spare parts for these exotic VCRs generally sit and rot unsold on eBay for months or years on end: you'd think there'd be a market for the parts, but its almost nonexistent. If you don't need the parts yourself or have a repair tech on speed dial who does, recycle the entire VCR.

    Value of the JVC HM-DHX1 is difficult to nail down: much would depend on finding a buyer that appreciates its rarity (and isn't put off by the potential voltage issue, if its Japan-spec 100v). Few of them are floating around USA so theres no reliable sales history to track. Its fraternal twin HM-DH40000U fetches $150-$250 with mechanical problems or $400-$650 if working perfectly.

    The Toshiba W512 sells for an average $40, probably not worth the trouble of packing and shipping because again, you risk a knucklehead changing his mind and sticking you with a "buyers remorse" return because he found a tiny scrape on the cabinet or something. Since shipping on these is roughly $30, you could lose $60 on a frivolous return.
    Last edited by orsetto; 6th Sep 2021 at 02:27.
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  10. My only objection to straight trashing those other decks is the possibility of scavenging pinch rollers or other parts from them. if it were me, i'd yank out belts, motors, and rollers and then probably scrap.
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  11. Possibly the head drum assemblies or just upper cylinder too if they have low hours on them (though admittedly that may be a bit hard to tell if they're not working well).
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