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  1. Saw this pop up and thought it was pretty interesting.

    Any of the hardware folks have any opinion on the list of modifications here? Would be awesome if some people started refurbing these. Although this price point seems insane to me.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/274833902321

    Datavideo TBC-1000 Single Channel Full Frame 4:2:2 Time Base Corrector



    Refurbished with Low-Noise Modifications



    Full documentation available as PDF on request



    Items Included

    Modified TBC-1000 device
    12V 1.5A power supply with ferrite bead
    2x Male BNC to female RCA adapters for composite video
    2x Male S-Video to female BNC adapters for S(Y/C) video
    4x Male/Male BNC patch cables
    2x BNC 75Ω terminators
    Modifications Made in TBC-1000 ModV1RevB



    The goal of the modifications we’ve made is to provide the high-quality, low-noise signal characteristic of the TBC-100 device, while maintaining the convenience of being a standalone device. The result is a device that is perfectly suited for incorporation into a modern analog video digitization workflow: the most common use case of the TBC-1000 device today. Modifications from the original device are as follows:

    Distribution amplifier board removed entirely.
    Power supply uses a linear voltage regulator—the same regulator used in the TBC-100 product.
    All electrolytic capacitors replaced with new Nichicon brand capacitors.
    BNC connectors are used for all inputs and outputs—for both composite and S-Video signals.
    New internal coax wire from connectors soldered directly to PCB, providing the cleanest possible signal path to the board.
    Input selector toggle switch added, allowing for input to be selected regardless of which cables are connected to the device.
    All inputs and outputs moved to the back of the unit.
    The status LED on the TBC-100 board (previously hidden from view inside of the case) is exposed as a blue LED on the front panel of the device, providing more insight into the operation of the device.
    Operation

    Install equipment as shown in the installation diagrams. Add BNC terminators to unused output connectors.
    Set the input selector switch to the desired input signal (composite vs. S-Video).
    Turn the power switch on. Red power LED will illuminate and blue status LED will flash in regular 3-second intervals.
    Signal will be output to both composite and S-Video outputs regardless of which input is used.
    Unit is capable of running continuously for many hours. However, it is recommended to power off the unit using the power switch in the back when not in use to extend its lifetime.
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  2. Capturing Memories dellsam34's Avatar
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    Good luck to him, He is asking almost $4k for it, People think okay I got money in the bank I buy it use it then sell it, Chances of selling it at the same price is slim to none not to mentien the losses involved which can amount to up to $500 between shipping, insurance, ebay fees and Paypal fees.

    I like the S-Video to BNC mod though.
    Last edited by dellsam34; 16th Jun 2021 at 16:14.
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  3. The price is utterly outrageous, but this is where we are now. Anything slightly old related to audio, video or photography with a definite "cult" behind it has skyrocketed, along with service fees to repair them. The eBay price floor for "pig in a poke" random untested DataVideos sold by indifferent non-tech sellers is north of $1500, so $3K for a well-renovated customized TBC-1000 is in line with that. Basically if you did not buy one of these ten years ago when they littered eBay for $400-$500 LNIB, you're screwed today if you suddenly need one.

    I've been in touch with someone who had this eBay tech retrofit these mods (except for the SVideo>BNC conversion) on his own existing TBC-1000. The work was done very very cleanly: the mods look better than DataVideo's original construction, so he clearly has experience doing careful work on delicate electronics. Functionally the unit performs well, with none of the annoying quirks of the original unmodified design. While the price is absurd, if you want/need a really solid TBC-1000 and can afford the cost this person might be a good resource. Personally, I'm interested but can't afford it right now: luckily my stock TBC-1000 is in good working order aside from the typical glitchy internal wiring harness.
    Last edited by orsetto; 16th Jun 2021 at 18:59.
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  4. Yeah the price is definitely ridiculous. These TBC1000s are pretty often going for over $1k these days, so I could see up to 2 grand for a refurbished and modified one like this. But double that price is just another level.

    Would be awesome to replicate this though at a price point that is a little more reasonable.
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  5. Originally Posted by nicholasserra View Post
    Would be awesome to replicate this though at a price point that is a little more reasonable.
    Well, thats the great big joke when it comes to this sort of thing. The actual replacement parts cost just a few dollars, labor to install them perhaps a few hours. If you have excellent skill at soldering and replacing modern electronics components, theoretically this could be replicated DIY for next to nothing. But therein lies the rub: few of us have the skill or nerve required to mess with a little box thats worth $1500 in as-is condition.

    Its the same with other desirable items needed for transfer work, like restoring the fabled and infamous Panasonic AG-1980 VCR. Currently, the few dedicated techs specializing in that work are charging $700 or more to fully service a customer's own AG-1980, while one tech who also sells turnkey restored 1980s is asking $1500 and up for them.

    The cost today is far beyond what most of us were used to paying for functional examples of such items 10-15 years ago, but times change and supply of working as-is units dries up. Today many of these legendary devices need a complete overhaul by a tech who truly knows what they're doing. That specialized skill and knowledge comes at a price, but if you watched over their shoulder and saw the time/effort involved you'd understand the cost. You still wouldn't like it, but you'd understand it.

    eBay's shady business model changed yet again this past year, to the point they are now actively hostile and quite abusive to sellers. So asking prices for specialty items like this modded TBC-1000 on eBay do not necessarily reflect the world outside the hothouse trainwreck that is eBay. Sellers are padding prices by a huge percentage just to make up for how eBay is screwing them over, plus to discourage the sort of typical a-hole game-playing buyer that now makes every eBay sale fraught with risk. If there was a reasonably accessible alternative to eBay selling, I'm pretty sure that $2995 starting price would be hundreds less.

    For perspective, check what technicians are charging to restore a vintage Thorens belt drive turntable or overhaul a Rolleiflex TLR. Its altogether beyond the pale, and out of reach now for any average Joe without deep pockets. There was a great pricing divide around 2010: if you got into these interests before then, purchase price plus overhaul verged on reasonable. After 2010, everything doubled, tripled, quadrupled as demand went up and supply of items and skilled techs dwindled.
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  6. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    The divide was between 2010-2015. There was a lull, less DIY, more gear available. That same gear is either now broken, or in the hands of hobbyists and pros that are not letting go. Almost no supply, high demand. That's unlikely to change. The support levels for these best TBCs is now well within the $1k-2k range, don't expect a drop. Most items these days comes from estate sales, storage units, etc -- not owners that knew how these work (or were supposed to work). So you too often pay a high price to somebody that doesn't know if it even works, when using eBay.

    Many of us actually pre-date the 2000s for video. I remember when TBCs were $500-$1k new, then AVT-8710 a bit less (far less during black junk days), then back up to $500-$1k, then inflation in past 4-5 years slowly drove those into current valuations. Inflation has hit everything from food to hobbies. Back in 2014, a retail 6" action figure was about $15. Now it's $25+. That won't be going down. The after-market for figures is easily 2x+ in most cases, if you don't grab it in stores during the short window of availability.

    I routinely see people pay $$$$ for singular car parts and $$$ for a single action figure. The car parts are a mix of stupid (pricey spinny things) and functional (true parts), and the action figures are just pretty stuff for your shelf. A TBC is an advanced tool, sharing more with a riding lawnmower than a Netflix subscription (ie, "video"). That Netflix sub is $ peanuts, while the mower is $$$$. You cannot conflate all video in terms of budget and valuation. A VCR at Walmart in the 2000s is NOT the basis upon which to value TBCs. To be blunt, it's just being clueless about economic reality. Somebody else will buy it (unless the price is just unreasonable, as is the case here), having seen the value, while you dawdle and whine. Odds are, the longer you wait, the more it'll cost later. TBCs are an unavoidable necessity for quality video capture -- or the ability to capture at all. It's a tool required for the task that we've elected to do ourselves, rather than pay others (who may or may not be using TBC, far too many bad services out there, which is likely why you want to DIY).

    I don't see that eBay is some horrible place for sellers, but in fact worse for the buyers. The "buyer protection" can literally drag on for 2-3 months, while you're out both money and item. There are known video gear scammers, namely that butthole in Houston, that will fight you, and it will drag out. He's further figure out a way to game the system to remove negative feedback, and has multiple usernames. So sellers don't necessarily get the raw deal, sometimes sellers ARE the raw deal. I paid $700 for a "new" (BS!) SSD earlier this year, and it took 2 months to resolve. No refund, no SSD, and I was pissed, for 2 months.

    TBCs and pricing require a different mindset. You can't simply declare something "expensive" without knowing what goes into it, what it does. It's not a toaster.
    Last edited by lordsmurf; 17th Jun 2021 at 00:11.
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  7. Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    I don't see that eBay is some horrible place for sellers, but in fact worse for the buyers. The "buyer protection" can literally drag on for 2-3 months, while you're out both money and item.
    It has been increasingly seller-hostile for the past six years, culminating in their official policy that there is really no such thing as "brand new sealed, no returns once opened" or "as-is, this item is broken, I'm clearly telling and showing you it was run over by a truck, no returns" categories. Every item for sale on eBay is returnable for any reason whatsoever, including shipping both ways, and within a SIX MONTH window after purchase. So while yes, there are always some incredibly clever scam sellers who find ways to take the money and run, in the broader sense eBay allows buyers to run wild and take total advantage of sellers while stripping sellers of any rights at all. There is ZERO protection now for sellers on eBay: you are completely at the mercy of the morality of your buyer, and many buyers lose their morals when shopping eBay. Once they get a taste of being able to exploit sellers for "free test drives" (or worse "free long term rentals"), Pandora's Box cannot be closed.

    Selling high value items like JVC vcrs, DataVideo TBCs, hifi gear or good cameras on eBay was always slightly risky but is today almost untenable. Postage rates for high value insured items (or items heavier than a snow globe) are through the roof: all it takes is one selfish ass buyer to sink you financially (no refund on 3% PayPal fees, you must refund original shipping, and also pay for return shipping even for blatantly obvious buyer's remorse on new items). So someone selling a $700 item that is reasonably priced at $700 (i.e., at or below market price) risks at least a 50/50 chance that item will be bought and returned frivolously, possibly twice, at an out-of-pocket total loss of $90 to $200.There is no arguing with eBay on this point: you can march right into their offices in person and demonstrate the item was flawless, and they'll just shrug their shoulders and say "nothing we can do, buyer is always right, check your latest seller agreement fine print".

    Sellers who drag their feet, seek arbitration or refuse to comply have their assets frozen and their account seized. This is esp potent since eBay effectively killed PayPal for sellers last December and insists on direct access to seller bank accounts, with eBay holding up sales payments for as long as they want (in many cases, insisting you ship the item before they release the payment money to your bank). So yeah, a handful of real dedicated PT Barnum scam sellers do figure workarounds to defy eBay, which is how LS got stiffed on that SSD deal, but such experiences are far far less common today than sellers getting completely torched by buyers.
    Last edited by orsetto; 18th Jun 2021 at 15:29.
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  8. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    I am the owner of this auction, and I appreciate all of the feedback. I've lowered the starting price for the auction and enabled the feature to make offers. If you have any questions for me please feel free to contact me directly or ask in this thread. Thanks!
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  9. Capturing Memories dellsam34's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by ccbradley View Post
    Hello all,

    I am the owner of this auction, and I appreciate all of the feedback. I've lowered the starting price for the auction and enabled the feature to make offers. If you have any questions for me please feel free to contact me directly or ask in this thread. Thanks!
    The price was high but I have to admit that you did a pretty nice BNC mod, I would suggest that you provide the buyer with high quality BNC/S-Video cables instead of BNC-BNC female and BNC male-S-Video extension. I'm planning on doing the same to my VCR's since my capture gear all Y/C BNC.
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    Originally Posted by orsetto View Post
    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    I don't see that eBay is some horrible place for sellers, but in fact worse for the buyers. The "buyer protection" can literally drag on for 2-3 months, while you're out both money and item.
    It has been increasingly seller-hostile for the past six years, culminating in their official policy that there is really no such thing as "brand new sealed, no returns once opened" or "as-is, this item is broken, I'm clearly telling and showing you it was run over by a truck, no returns" categories. Every item for sale on eBay is returnable for any reason whatsoever, including shipping both ways, and within a SIX MONTH window after purchase. So while yes, there are always some incredibly clever scam sellers who find ways to take the money and run, in the broader sense eBay allows buyers to run wild and take total advantage of sellers while stripping sellers of any rights at all. There is ZERO protection now for sellers on eBay: you are completely at the mercy of the morality of your buyer, and many buyers lose their morals when shopping eBay. Once they get a taste of being able to exploit sellers for "free test drives" (or worse "free long term rentals"), Pandora's Box cannot be closed.

    Selling high value items like JVC vcrs, DataVideo TBCs, hifi gear or good cameras on eBay was always slightly risky but is today almost untenable. Postage rates for high value insured items (or items heavier than a snow globe) are through the roof: all it takes is one selfish ass buyer to sink you financially (no refund on 3% PayPal fees, you must refund original shipping, and also pay for return shipping even for blatantly obvious buyer's remorse on new items). So someone selling a $700 item that is reasonably priced at $700 (i.e., at or below market price) risks at least a 50/50 chance that item will be bought and returned frivolously, possibly twice, at an out-of-pocket total loss of $90 to $200.There is no arguing with eBay on this point: you can march right into their offices in person and demonstrate the item was flawless, and they'll just shrug their shoulders and say "nothing we can do, buyer is always right, check your latest seller agreement fine print".

    Sellers who drag their feet, seek arbitration or refuse to comply have their assets frozen and their account seized. This is esp potent since eBay effectively killed PayPal for sellers last December and insists on direct access to seller bank accounts, with eBay holding up sales payments for as long as they want (in many cases, insisting you ship the item before they release the payment money to your bank). So yeah, a handful of real dedicated PT Barnum scam sellers do figure workarounds to defy eBay, which is how LS got stiffed on that SSD deal, but such experiences are far far less common today than sellers getting completely torched by buyers.
    Thanks for those revelations, orsetto: I had scant awareness of this. Yes, I have observed huge escalations in the prices on certain items over the years, but where this did not have ready explanations in greatly inflated estimations of value (there are for example many much better places to purchase a pinball table, even though I have done that a couple times via eBay . . . although not at all recently), or simple greed, I mainly chalked it up to sellers having to recoup exorbitant fees. I have bought things on eBay for over 20 years, racking up around 600 transactions. But that was only as a buyer. (eBay is probably the last resort for all manner of discontinued items and parts.) For the most part, this purchase history has been successful for me. A couple times I was on the verge of selling something that was somewhat rare and moderately valuable, but never actually got so far as to follow through with it. Now you make me very glad that I let this slide. And it becomes very much more doubtful that I would sell anything there. The thing is: what competing, alternative platform exists that is really preferable ? There may not be any ? I have purchased a few items on Etsy, mainly for others. That appears fine for artisan-type items of relatively modest cost, but I'm thinking it is a different animal entirely, not a serious competitor to eBay. Particularly not for the sort of items we are discussing here.
    When in Las Vegas, don't miss the Pinball Hall of Fame Museum http://www.pinballmuseum.org/ -- with over 150 tables from 6+ decades of this quintessentially American art form.
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  11. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    "Refurbished with Low-Noise Modifications" is potentially nonsense.

    There's only 2 things that can be done.
    - replace bad caps, which MAY or MAY NOT fix cap-induced noise
    - bypass the VP299, which again MAY or MAY NOT remove jailbar noise when present

    I've been rebuilding TBC-1000s for years. It's neither easy nor fun. My rebuilts have been in the $2k range.

    That price is ridiculous.

    Replacing s-video with BNC is dumb as hell. The BNC adapters are an added potential quality reducer, and most BNC cables suck compared to s-video (including dirt-cheap s-video cables).

    Coax? WTF?

    The TBC-100 "status LED" does nothing that makes any sense, not documented at all. Knowing DataVideo, there's a good chance it was an abandoned LED that did nothing more than randomly flash due to having no instructions in the chipsets.

    It comes across as a pointless hobby project ("gee, I wonder if I could do ___ to it?") trying to be sold for 2x+ fair market value for any TBC. For $4k, get a 3rd-gen TBC-3000 (will take time to locate), which crushes TBC-1000 quality in all regards.
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  12. Capturing Memories dellsam34's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post

    Replacing s-video with BNC is dumb as hell. The BNC adapters are an added potential quality reducer, and most BNC cables suck compared to s-video (including dirt-cheap s-video cables).
    I guess the professional gear that uses BNC connectors and cables for decades without a hitch is dumb, I wouldn't call S-Video dumb but it's the flimsiest design I ever used. BNC connection is firm due to the locking mechanism, low noise, can run longer. I had to reflow my S-Video socket on one of my VCR's twice, The third time it will be a BNC upgrade.
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  13. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by dellsam34 View Post
    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post

    Replacing s-video with BNC is dumb as hell. The BNC adapters are an added potential quality reducer, and most BNC cables suck compared to s-video (including dirt-cheap s-video cables).
    I guess the professional gear that uses BNC connectors and cables for decades without a hitch is dumb, I wouldn't call S-Video dumb but it's the flimsiest design I ever used. BNC connection is firm due to the locking mechanism, low noise, can run longer. I had to reflow my S-Video socket on one of my VCR's twice, The third time it will be a BNC upgrade.
    Professional gear was intended for BNC connections, without adapters.

    The TBC-1000 is intended for use with (at very least) s-video input from quality decks, meaning adapter needed.

    Passing the TBC out to BNC is unusual, somewhat mixing gear. I know you like SDI workflows, and that's where you're coming from. But in general, it's far more complicated, and limiting in several ways. Serious users generally don't want to touch it, and casual users definitely don't want to. I guess if you insist on BNC-using workflow, this is what you're been waiting for. Go for it, $4k, that's all you.

    s-video isn't flimsy, and BNC isn't firm. Each has slop in connections and cables. What I can say is that a cheap BNC is bad news, while a cheap s-video is almost always fine. The separated wires don't induce noise the same as other connections. Shielding is less important on s-video that others. It's one of the few times that you can go cheap with video, and still be perfectly fine. (Note: Not all cheap cables. But many are fine.)

    Running longer is mostly about gauge and shielding.

    I've had two s-video connectors go bad in 30 years. I rarely see or hear about that. The main issue is constant plug-unplug-replug that kills those.
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  14. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    "Refurbished with Low-Noise Modifications" is potentially nonsense.

    There's only 2 things that can be done.
    - replace bad caps, which MAY or MAY NOT fix cap-induced noise
    - bypass the VP299, which again MAY or MAY NOT remove jailbar noise when present

    I've been rebuilding TBC-1000s for years. It's neither easy nor fun. My rebuilts have been in the $2k range.

    That price is ridiculous.

    Replacing s-video with BNC is dumb as hell. The BNC adapters are an added potential quality reducer, and most BNC cables suck compared to s-video (including dirt-cheap s-video cables).

    Coax? WTF?

    The TBC-100 "status LED" does nothing that makes any sense, not documented at all. Knowing DataVideo, there's a good chance it was an abandoned LED that did nothing more than randomly flash due to having no instructions in the chipsets.

    It comes across as a pointless hobby project ("gee, I wonder if I could do ___ to it?") trying to be sold for 2x+ fair market value for any TBC. For $4k, get a 3rd-gen TBC-3000 (will take time to locate), which crushes TBC-1000 quality in all regards.
    I have to admit that I skipped over this post initially because it seemed a bit hostile. There is a lot to address here, but I’d really like to focus on this very surprising comment:

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    Coax? WTF?
    I wish you would have elaborated a bit more, but I will assume that you think it was foolish of me to use coax wiring from the connectors to the board. My stance is that coaxial cable is the only correct way to wire such a device, and anything other than coax will certainly contribute to signal loss.

    First let’s define what a coax or “coaxial” cable is. The most basic definition of a coaxial cable is a straight conductor carrying a signal enclosed inside of a cylindrical conductor that carries the return for that signal. Because the two conductors share the same axis, the electromagnetic field carrying the signal exists only in the small space separating the conductors. Outside of the cable, electric fields from the two conductors perfectly cancel each other out. This special property means that signal propagating through coax neither causes nor is affected by electromagnetic interference. The wikipedia article on coaxial cable is a good place to start for more information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable

    Next, let’s look at how the TBC-1000 was originally wired. This is a photo of one of the original S-video wiring harnesses:
    Image
    [Attachment 59552 - Click to enlarge]


    At first glance it definitely just looks like 4 separate conductors. But after a little dissection, we see that this is actually two coaxial cables that have been pulled apart at the ends for termination purposes. Granted it doesn’t look like what most people think of when they think “coax”, it fits the definition: center conductor surrounded by an outer conductor and separated by an insulator.
    Image
    [Attachment 59553 - Click to enlarge]

    Image
    [Attachment 59554 - Click to enlarge]


    So at least Datavideo and myself are using coax cable for video signals. But what about everybody else? You had mentioned that some of your S-video cables are amazing, and others are garbage. I’d venture to guess that the difference between them is coaxial versus non-coaxial wire. Just for fun, I cut open my cheapest s-video cable. No surprises here:
    Image
    [Attachment 59555 - Click to enlarge]


    I'd venture to guess that if we cut open a high-quality S-video cable, we would find a pair of coax cables inside. I couldn't bring myself to do it, but this is enough evidence for me: https://cablesondemand.com/shielded-s-video-s-vhs-cable-75-ohm-dual-coax-with-gold-s-v...svhsgdl4mm-001

    Also just for fun, a cross-section of an okay-quality AV cable:
    Image
    [Attachment 59556 - Click to enlarge]

    Image
    [Attachment 59557 - Click to enlarge]


    Coax. Even for the audio. Because for any single-ended signal, coax cable transmission is always better than non-coax cable.

    Coax cable is theoretically perfect in its protection from external electromagnetic interference, but in practice this is difficult to achieve. In these original TBC-1000 wiring harnesses for example, the conductors are moved from a coaxial configuration to a parallel or twin-lead configuration. In this configuration, it is possible for the signal to be affected by external noise, so it’s best to keep them separated for as short a distance possible. Enter the BNC connector. BNC was designed for use with coax cable as it maintains the coaxial configuration of the signals as they pass through the connector and back into another coax cable. The RCA connector is really just a consumer-friendly version of BNC. For the most robust transmission of signal from device A to device B, the signal should be transmitted entirely through coaxially-configured conductors to avoid signal degradation.

    Now consider the 4-pin mini DIN connector used for s-video in consumer electronics. The configuration of the 4 pins is definitely not coaxial, which means even if the cable leading to the connector is coaxial, it will have to be pulled apart to make connections with the mini-DIN. This will cause the signal to pick up some noise, and likely will cause some reflectance of the signal back to the source.

    There really isn’t much to discuss here. Coax is the norm for transmission of analog video signals, full stop. Spreading disinformation in the form of disparaging comments is not helping to create a positive learning environment in this forum.
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  15. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by ccbradley View Post
    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    "Refurbished with Low-Noise Modifications" is potentially nonsense.
    I have to admit that I skipped over this post initially because it seemed a bit hostile.
    eBay is a constant source of misinformation, regarding TBCs and VCRs, because 99%+ of the sellers know nothing about video. There's also liars and scammers, not just no-knowledge goobers making claims. eBay wasn't like that in the 2000s, but more and more turned that way in the 2010s. What we have in the 2020s is mostly a cesspool, where newbies are suckered into buyer stuff that doesn't work correctly, or at all.

    So it was extreme skepticism, not hostility. Read the post again, words like "potential" and "may" are used intentionally.

    That insanely high initial asking price didn't help matters. It seemed like a typical excessive money grab, not much different from "parts or not working" TBC-1000s selling for $1k now.

    We've seen botched TBC mod home/hobby projects put on eBay before -- including at least one VP-299 bypass in past years, and it was a botched mod. And the seller wasn't the one who did it, supposedly, and it came from an estate sale (something not known until AFTER problems arose, not in the auction description). So much eBay video stuff comes from estate sales these days, it's insane. You'd think it was a format that ended 50 years ago, used only by retirees now. Clearly not the case, so WTF?

    Any initial skepticism on my part is gone now. If anything, I'm interested in giving you ideas to make it a better 2.0 mod version. I will be getting back to you. (BTW, I wasn't alone in that skepticism. The entire reason I came to this thread was due to PMs elsewhere alerting me too it, asking my input on the topic.)

    Originally Posted by ccbradley View Post
    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    Coax? WTF?
    I wish you would have elaborated a bit more
    Funny enough, I didn't know exactly what was going on here, because you didn't elaborate more.
    So WTF, or huh, is all there was.

    However, now it's far more clear. And great post, very detailed info.

    I do have concerns about how well that coax solder work will hold up in shipping, and in various hot/cold climates. That's a weak link in this early attempt, something you may want to look into.

    Originally Posted by ccbradley View Post
    The RCA connector is really just a consumer-friendly version of BNC. F
    Now consider the 4-pin mini DIN connector used for s-video in consumer electronics.
    I do take some issue with the description here, as it may lead some folks to make wrong conclusions.
    So for the purpose of clarification...

    - Composite (RCA yellow) is an inferior signal carrier, compared against s-video (separated video, better known as Y/C).
    - Composite composites (smashes together) the luma and chroma signals, and you get crosstalk.
    - Y/C maintains separation, so no crosstalk (crawl) occurs, unless the wire is made badly.
    - Due note, however, that composite is not a horrible soft and noisy signal. Quality composite exists, minimal softness, minimal noise. The problem is generally that other devices suck, both internally, and at the connectors. Plus cheap cabling. The only composite cables I use are the ones originally supplied by DataVideo.

    In a pro setting, BNC Y/C is two complete separate wires, going to two separate Y and C BNC on the unit. That all works great. But when you adapter BNC down into an s-video cable, bad stuff can happen. Crosstalk, noise. And sadly, that's often the case, even with "name brand" cables (Extron, Aja etc) as its just Chinese-made crap wires. So while BNC>svideo is perfectly fine in theory, in practice it's a nightmare. Even cheaply made s-video cables generally perform better, though do break down in time after use, and are more susceptible to outside noise. (Plug/unplug seems to exacerbate the cheap s-video cable failing.)

    In a 2.0 version of your TBC-1000 mod, it'd make far more sense to split an output to both s-video in/out, as well as BNC. You have the rear port room for it. While splitting can induce noise leakage (into the signal), it can be avoided or mitigated. And that split will be far better than any external adapter in practice.

    As of now, my advice to others, on this exact unit, is to get it for BNC usage. Not to adapt to non-BNC needs.

    The VP-301x cards were variable in quality (not exactly the same as TBC-100 cards), but a good card makes a nice clean TBC.

    Originally Posted by dellsam34 View Post
    It's no surprise that BNC is still used even in the digital word,?
    It's almost entirely due to the twist lock heads. Great design.
    Last edited by lordsmurf; 25th Jun 2021 at 08:01.
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  16. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Removed since unrelated to discussion at hand
    Last edited by ccbradley; 25th Jun 2021 at 22:28.
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  17. Capturing Memories dellsam34's Avatar
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    You don't need adapters (see picture below), One cable with one side BNC the other side S-Video, Yes dual BNC can look ugly, S-Video is sexy, But I've had captures with chroma flicker that I traced back to a faulty S-Video socket with good soldier joints, Unfortunatly those sockets on the back of the VCR are proprietary and finding the exact replacement part is impossible, The only way to keep the original socket is to keep changing S-Video cables and hope for the best. Never had that happen with BNC equiped decks or cables and I do have cheap BNC cables. At the end of the day mods like these are personal customisations for better performance, it never meant to keep the stock look. One may like the orginal Mustang, another likes the performance add on.

    Last edited by dellsam34; 17th Jun 2021 at 03:49. Reason: Added picture
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  18. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    I've never seen BNC>YC cables that weren't crappy, even the expensive ones from Extron. The one shown above has essentially no shielding, and is completely flimsy. I've had a difficult time finding good BNC<>s-video in the past, and it always irritates me. Yet ironically, BNC<>composite was far easier, simply using a good BNC<>composite adapter (not cheap, not gold, but good). In fact, those exact BNC/composite devices had a fairly robust composite, not blurry like many devices (thus proving bad composite is due to bad connections/devices, not entirely the fault of composite itself).
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  19. I am so glad I finished my vhs projected 9 years ago !, I had good luck with this little thing..........https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/276891-REG/AV_Toolbox_AVT_8710_AVT_8710_Multi_S...Time_Base.html
    PAL/NTSC problem solver.
    USED TO BE A UK Equipment owner., NOW FINISHED WITH VHS CONVERSIONS-THANKS
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  20. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by victoriabears View Post
    I am so glad I finished my vhs projected 9 years ago !, I had good luck with this little thing..........https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/276891-REG/AV_Toolbox_AVT_8710_AVT_8710_Multi_S...Time_Base.html
    The black AVT-8710 had flawed chipset that actually induced the very timing errors it was suppose to remove. Frame sticking, dropped frames, frame ghosting, etc.

    Well documented: http://www.digitalFAQ.com/forum/vcr-repair/3053-avt-8710-doa.html
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  21. Originally Posted by victoriabears View Post
    I am so glad I finished my vhs projected 9 years ago !, I had good luck with this little thing..........https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/276891-REG/AV_Toolbox_AVT_8710_AVT_8710_Multi_S...Time_Base.html
    I agree. I had the same unit packaged under a different name (AMBERY TBC-1). Amazing results with this little unit.
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  22. Nice, thanks for chiming in.

    The relocation of the connectors all to the back and the new caps alone make this pretty desirable at this price point at least. Always wanted to rack mount my TBC1000, obviously inputs on the front cause issues with that.
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    Originally Posted by nicholasserra View Post
    Nice, thanks for chiming in.

    The relocation of the connectors all to the back and the new caps alone make this pretty desirable at this price point at least. Always wanted to rack mount my TBC1000, obviously inputs on the front cause issues with that.
    If you already have a TBC-1000 I’d be happy to make modifications to it for you. Feel free to PM me if interested.
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  24. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by nicholasserra View Post
    The relocation of the connectors all to the back
    Always wanted to rack mount my TBC1000, obviously inputs on the front cause issues with that.
    That's definitely better. But you still have the power switch buried on the back. The TBC-1000 doesn't have rack mounts, never intended for that, but something should be rig-able.

    Originally Posted by dellsam34 View Post
    I would suggest that you provide the buyer with high quality BNC/S-Video cables instead of BNC-BNC female and BNC male-S-Video extension.
    If you can locate quality cables for that, in the now 2020s, great. I had a difficult time locating truly good BNC>s-video back in 2019, either cable or adapter. Everything these days is flimsy, many of them fell part with light use. Even the Extron cables sucked, and added noise the signal. I'm not looking for ridiculously over-thick Monster cables, either. Just good cables, good gauge, adequate shielding, won't come apart at the heads after a few mere plug/unplugs. I didn't get the Aja, looked to be nothing more than rebadged Chinese cables, the same as everything else I saw. Unless you're going BNC VCR > TBC > BNC capture, I think BNC is a mistake here.

    The irony here is that cheap free s-video cables are often fine. The s-video cables that came with my JVC VCRs are some of the best cables that I still use. Most others are disposable, and I toss at least 1 pair in the trash every year (or recycle when I can). So I consider BNC a downgrade.

    Originally Posted by ccbradley View Post
    Hello all,
    and I appreciate all of the feedback.
    Thanks!
    Hello.

    Question: What do you think the value of the VP-301x LED is? Because as far as I know (and I inquired with DataVideo on this), the LED is just random flashing. It's one of those things on the TBC-100 that had intentions, but didn't go anywhere. There's a number of aspects of the TBC-100 (and TBC-1000) that were scrapped before release, and just never changed.

    The re-cap is nice, but it only addresses the output block. The input of the TBC-1000 is far more problematic.

    If you ever want to discuss the TBC-1000 more in-depth, fell free to contact me. I'm all for upgrading these (remove VP-299, etc, just not BNC), and refurb'ing when needed (re-cap, etc). As you surely realize, it takes time and funds to put a TBC-1000 back into shape.
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  25. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    But you still have the power switch buried on the back.
    I like this idea; the power switch could definitely be moved to the front for a rack-mounted situation.

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    Unless you're going BNC VCR > TBC > BNC capture, I think BNC is a mistake here.
    This workflow is actually the use case that I had in mind when making these modifications. Things definitely get messy when you have to convert to S-video connectors.

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    The irony here is that cheap free s-video cables are often fine. The s-video cables that came with my JVC VCRs are some of the best cables that I still use. Most others are disposable, and I toss at least 1 pair in the trash every year (or recycle when I can). So I consider BNC a downgrade.
    I agree that framed this way, BNC could be considered a downgrade. The alternative is to use 4-pin mini-DIN connectors on the device, most of which are not manufactured for use with video signals these days, from what I’ve seen. My opinion is that BNC is the most future-proof option and when used with the right equipment, introduces the least amount of noise.

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    Question: What do you think the value of the VP-301x LED is? Because as far as I know (and I inquired with DataVideo on this), the LED is just random flashing. It's one of those things on the TBC-100 that had intentions, but didn't go anywhere. There's a number of aspects of the TBC-100 (and TBC-1000) that were scrapped before release, and just never changed.
    It does seem to be programmed to just flash at regular 3 second intervals at all times during operation. The value in being able to see that is that you know when the MCU is not working for some reason. I encountered a situation in the past where the 7808 on the VP-299 was going bad (on an older model back when the VP-299’s 8 volts were provided directly to the VP-301x) and was not able to supply the necessary current. This caused a very noticeable sporadic flashing of the LED—something that I was lucky to be able to see since the case was open at the time. It’s not a huge value-add item, but it does potentially provide an early warning that the device needs repair. Plus it looks cool.
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  26. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Figured I would share the documentation that I mention in the auction listing… see attached.
    Image Attached Thumbnails TBC-1000_ModV1RevB_60c8585a15ba6.pdf  

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  27. Capturing Memories dellsam34's Avatar
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    Well documented modification and great information, Like any consumer device TBC-1000 is built with money saving in mind using readily available cheap components, But you did bring it up to standards used by proffesional gear, Kudos. I would love to make you an offer but I just don't need it, Hopefully it finds a better home.
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    I am the one Orsetto mentioned was in contact with who has the modified TBC-1000. Yes mine doesn't have Y/C bnc's but I contacted Blue Jean Cable and ordered a s-video [male] to two bnc [male]. It's made by Belden and seems pretty nice quality.

    Overall I'm very happy with Bradley's work on my modified TBC-1000. He emailed pictures, documentation, constant contact with the progress, printout of all documentation. I'd like to believe it's as good or better than the TBC-100.

    I had been closely monitoring eBay, even had Datavideo TBC-1000 saved in a search so I'd get a notification when one got listed. After a few weeks of no notifications I checked the completed listings/sold items and saw about four that all sold the second they got listed. Then one got listed (by Bradley) so I contacted him to see if he could either re-cap and/or bypass the distribution board. Who needs four outputs when capturing? With a few suggestions from Orsetto, which I relayed to Bradley they were incorporated in his mods for the better. All the TBC-1000's that recently were listed sold for $1400+. Then someone had a rack of gear with a TBC-1000 with the auction, and later listed the TBC-1000 separately and that stock unit sold for $1850.
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    Hey you guys have been watching this too.

    It's mentioned that during this modification the power supply was changed to a linear voltage regulator. You said the switch-mode regulator adds noise to the system via ripple voltage.

    One of the upsides of the TBC 100 is that it's connected to a computer's PSU. It's been said that TBC 1000s are sensitive to a dirty grid which next to aging caps can add to most of the noise which the TBC100 avoids. I wonder if this mod addresses that.

    Overall looks like stellar and quality work. I hope it makes it to a good home whoever ends up buying it.
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  30. Member ccbradley's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by BenKlesc View Post
    It's mentioned that during this modification the power supply was changed to a linear voltage regulator. You said the switch-mode regulator adds noise to the system via ripple voltage.

    One of the upsides of the TBC 100 is that it's connected to a computer's PSU. It's been said that TBC 1000s are sensitive to a dirty grid which next to aging caps can add to most of the noise which the TBC100 avoids. I wonder if this mod addresses that.
    Yes, the switch mode regulator on the "power board" that Datavideo designed is a great source of noise. A switch mode regulator with low noise output requires quite a bit of careful engineering. Datavideo's design is comprised of 7 discrete components.

    Linear regulators (as long as they are properly cooled) add very little noise to the incoming voltage. This mod uses a Texas Instruments LM7805 linear regulator thermally-mounted to the metal case of the box, away from the main board itself. I think this is pretty close to ideal and gives the user the most options. An interesting and very inexpensive idea might be to power the device from a 3S lithium battery connected to the DC jack instead of a power supply. This would probably give you less noise than even a computer's PSU. Just make sure the battery has built-in over-discharge protection and does not do any sort of voltage regulation. An example of a suitable battery and protection board:
    https://www.amazon.com/Zeee-Helicopter-Airplane-Quadcopter-Multicopter/dp/B07CWS1HC5/r...4508250&sr=8-7
    https://www.amazon.com/AITRIP-Charger-Protection-Lithium-Battery/dp/B08JYTG82N/ref=sr_...508250&sr=8-10
    With this battery you could probably run the device for about 6-8 hours on a full charge.
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