I finally decided to start converting my VHS and 8mm tapes to digital format. I was lucky to find a DMR-EZ47V VHS/DVD player/recorder which can output analog VHS through the HDMI out. I can also connect an analog camcorder to its inputs and output the video through the HDMI. I have also purchased an HDMI capture USB from Amazon (OODAN Audio Video Capture Cards - HDMI to USB 2.0 - High Definition 1080p 30fps). VirtualDub works with this setup and captures the HDMI video/audio. What would be the optimal capture settings in Virtual Dub? I have changed settings to 720 X 480 and 29.97, also audio to 48k 16bit, would this be the optimal settings for the digital HDMI capture? Which others should I consider?. Is deinterlacing something that I should worry about with the digital HDMI capture or is that already done by the Panasonic DVD/VHS?. I have enough space to capture lossless and plan to convert to MP4 with handbrake.
would an analog device such as "Diamond VC500 USB 2.0 One Touch VHS to DVD Video Capture Device" be better for the capture?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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Capturing VHS thru HDMI is the worst way you can go by, The resolution will not match, the de-interlacing will look like crap, the colors and light levels will be crushed, capturing video the proper way has a learning curve and if you don't have the patience you will be recapturing those tapes again sometime in the future and hopefully by then you haven't thrown them out.
Thanks for your prompt response. I will be experimenting with a Hauppauge USB capture device instead. I am connecting it directly to a Hi8 camcorder with S-VHS output. Will compare result with the HDMI captures. Totally new to this so appreciate your suggestion.
It can work well provided you capture in the original 480i or 576i resolution, and the HDMI grabber is capable of capturing to a lossless format, and it's set to output in YUV format (using RGB will give clipping of brights/darks). Most Panasonic DVRs have some TBC/Jitter correction functionality as well which is nice (The pre-HDMI models ES10, ES15 and related have the best jitter correction), and the analog to digital converter is very good. I've done HDMI via DVR capture a fair bit myself, it can work quite well provided one is aware of the limitations. You usually need to use a HDMI splitter thingy to evade HDCP copy protection on the output, but it seems yours doesn't have this, at least not on non-copy-protected material.
DVRs can usually output upscaled and deinterlaced video, but I wouldn't recommend capturing that as the quality of the upscaling and deinterlacing is mediocre, and it will use up a lot more space. There are some that can only output deinterlaced video over HDMI though, in that case you can still use it as a TBC of sorts, and capture from the S-Video output with one of the common USB dongles instead.
Be vary that PAL Panasonic DVRs have a tendency to clip bright spots (can be avoided using something to drastically lower the video level before it enters the DVR), and the NTSC ones, at least the earlier non-HDMI models have some noise reduction that can't be entirely turned off.
Thanks. I set up the Panasonic HDMI to output 480i. Need to test again to check interlacing. I think it is outputting deinterlaced video. I am also using the Hauppage to compare quality.
My current setup is a sony SVHS CCD-TRV81 camcorder (probably the original recording device). Video is sent to the Pan DMR-EZ47V and then use the HDMI out to the HDMI capture device OR an S-video output to a USB Hauppauge Digital TV Tuner which has an optional SVideo/analog capture cable.
For the analog capture, Should I use the Panasonic as an intermediary or connecting the camcorder directly to the Hauppauge be better? I have a used elgato USB analog capture arriving soon. Will compare quality of captures when it arrives.
I was also able to get access to a sony Digital8 DCR-TRV320. It can play the originial Hi8 and 8mm as well, waiting for the right cable to test firewire capture. Will using the digital camcorder as a passthrough for the sony TRV81 (instead of the Panasonic) be better than playing the tapes in the Digital camcorder itself?
Playing back the tape in the TRV320 will likely give better quality than the older camcorder, it's newer and has TBC/DNR. I would recommend capturing from the analog output of it, with firewire the video is DV-compressed which reduces quality a bit, especially for NTSC.
Thanks. I assume that passing video from Digital camcorder through the Panasonic is not needed for additional signal correction?
This type of workflow usually do provides good and solid captures. I have used it in the past with a Panasonics DMR-EH65 and the results were quite good.
Has already said dont change the original resolution and stay in interlaced mode. Donīt change also Video Proc amp settings , stay with the default values ( hdmi transfer)
it is a workflow highly recommended for the quality of the results and for being a solution that overcomes the problems resulting from noisy tapes or tapes with unstable signal that easily lead to drop or inserted frames and that with this solution are completely overcome.
You can see a lot of details for instance in the German forum gleitz.info
Put the chrome browser in automatic translation from german to english and the German problem is solved or use a copy I already made and translated to English ( have in mind that the translation is a google automatic translation)
Last edited by FLP437; 1st Jul 2020 at 21:15.
HDMI capture from a HiFi video customer product will fail most of the time, There's nothing wrong with the Intensity Shuttle, there are just too many fail points with HDMI and HDCP.
Try to find a DVD recorder that has component YUV video OUT (mostly Panasonic) and check first if it will passthrough the video input, and not just the DVD player, check this with the DMR-EH65, and if you can put the component out in progressive mode, and set Both apps for the Intensity Shuttle in corresponding resolution, frame rate and mode.
it's a bit strange this one has both HDMI and component out, component would be better because there's no extra decoding done to composite or HDMI.
to be able to activate the progressive mode you need to have "video with component" set, so, not RGB.
You get a better stable signal with component, is my experience, strange thing is also, with mine ES35V composite and s-video are also fine, s-video slightly less though..
btw, using component video, saves you buying the HDMI splitter, and you can use the analog (red/white) RCA audio connections for sound like normal.
Last edited by Eric-jan; 3rd Jul 2020 at 05:05.