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  1. Hi,

    The CPU I have is pretty powerful and there is a HUGE Cooler Master heat sink and fan on it, however, despite the task of playing a DVD being relatively simple, its using like 30% of the cpu to do it, which is in turn making my PC noisy when playing a DVD on the computer, which is partly why I want to make my DVD player multi region so I Can play the disc in the DVD player and not the PC, does anyone have any recommendations on software that can make it more quiet in Windows 10? Or is there any better DVD playing software that wont hog the resources so much? Thanks in advance
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  2. DVD playback should not be using 30% of a cpu unless both the cpu is older and there is no gpu acceleration enabled.

    What CPU and GPU do you have and what DVD player are you using?
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  3. Hi,

    Thankyou for your response,

    AMD FX 8350 EIGHT CORE PROCESSOR
    RAM 10GB
    64BIT OS

    GPU:
    ATI RADEON HD 4300/4500 SERIES

    I was using VLC as the DVD player.
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  4. I had heating issues using VLC also in the past so I switched to MPC player.
    Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence -Carl Sagan
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  5. Try tools/preferences/Codecs/hardware accelerated decoding-disable in vlc

    Turn off repeat all/play.
    Delete all files in the playlist / history.

    . .

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pcworld.com/article/3023430/tested-vlc-vs-windows-10-...e-you.amp.html
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  6. Originally Posted by blueskies2020 View Post
    Hi,

    Thankyou for your response,

    AMD FX 8350 EIGHT CORE PROCESSOR
    RAM 10GB
    64BIT OS

    GPU:
    ATI RADEON HD 4300/4500 SERIES

    I was using VLC as the DVD player.
    Tools-->Preferences-->Video-->Output, try different options, see if that helps.
    Tools-->Preferences-->Inputs/Codecs-->Hardware-accelerated decoding, try different options, see if that helps.

    Also, how do you have 10 GB ram? Ram usually comes in 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 GB sizes (though there are bigger), did you mix and match ram sizes?
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    https://noctua.at/en/products/fan quiet fans. if you are good with a file or have a way to balance your blades you can add the silencers yourself, I wouldn't recommend that though unless you are good with small parts/ electric motors
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  8. [QUOTE=sophisticles;2575507]
    Originally Posted by blueskies2020 View Post

    Also, how do you have 10 GB ram? Ram usually comes in 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 GB sizes (though there are bigger), did you mix and match ram sizes?
    It's a mix and match, there was more ram but a stick was failing. I'm impressed though, windows 10 boots in about 10 seconds as I am using a SSD on here too.
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    You can get a multi region DVD player from the highstreet for around 20, problem solved?

    The AMD FX 8xxx series are pretty power hungry.

    If the noise is an issue for other things too, consider replacing the cooler with a water cooler (I am assuming what you have is passive), but a good water cooler is going to cost more than the DVD player.

    DO NOT change the fan on the cooler. They are specifically designed, and you require certain airflows for certain things.

    You could look at software to control fan speeds, but you risk eventually damaging your CPU if you get the settings wrong. I don't know your exact setup, but I am just going to assume it's not best to mess with these things.
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  10. Originally Posted by babygdav View Post
    Try tools/preferences/Codecs/hardware accelerated decoding-disable in vlc

    Turn off repeat all/play.
    Delete all files in the playlist / history.

    . .

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pcworld.com/article/3023430/tested-vlc-vs-windows-10-...e-you.amp.html
    WOW disabling the hardware acceleration worked! CU usage now sitting hovering between 3% and 7% while playing the DVD!
    Thanks a lot for that! Kinda weird as I had always assumed hardware acceleration made things work better??
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    as far as not replacing a fan how do you expect to get a new fan in its place when it goes bad? cpu fans just blow through a heatsink on a stock assembly, any decent coolermaster with those fans I linked in a push pull system will work better than a stock cooler and it will be quiet. clean the cpu gently and reapply thermal grease plug fan in. simple and straight to the point
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  12. cpu 125w
    gpu 25w

    Shouldn't be LOUD at all with the proper fan setup since that doesn't even come close to 1 2060ti GPU card for power draw.
    I'd listen to the open box, see which fans are causing the noise, and replace.

    https://www.quietpc.com/
    https://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Heatsinks

    etc. you get the idea. Tons of ways to make that PC silent.
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  13. its not the gpu making the noise, its the cpu, its 8 core so will get hot and noisy. its typically quiet when under normal web browsing mode. The one thing that is VERY annoying is there is a weird kind of whistle coming from the sound card port, its not got a fan or anything mechanical, it just makes a weird whistle type of noise. I've never had a pc do that before. It has however stopped doing it in windows since I updated windows yesterday, it does it in linux though.
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  14. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    AMD CPUs run hot. Always have.

    Cooler Master is decent only if you have something low-heat like an i3 or i5.

    Get a Noctua. Those are often silent or near-silent. My Notcuas are so quiet that I mostly hear my quiet Seagate HDDs spinning.
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    if I could, I would like that post lordsmurf. although coolermasters are great for cooling I have the 6 core version of his cpu my coolermaster with noctuas push and pull system keeps that cpu chilly. I overclock it too. I also vent the case from front to back low to high so it pulls cooler air in from the bottom and cools across the top and pushes the hot air out the back all with noctua fans.
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    I have the huge metal Noctua cube, not just the fans. It's literally the largest thing in my case. It sticks out 6" off the CPU, and about 8" high/wide. I don't have a wind tunnel of fans, and just need a few. I often even open my PSUs, throw out the stock fan, and splice in a Noctua fan. These often only run like 250-450 rpms. My i7 system runs cool and quiet, the way it should be. (Computers should be seen, not heard.) The Antec case has lots of venting, ambient temp inside isn't much different than outside.

    Right now, all I hear are several external 2.5" HDDs plugged in.
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    does that cube have a radiator with copper heatsink rods running through it? if so I made that with a coolermaster and 2 noctua fans on a push pull system. when you run 18 instances of a game on an oc'ed system you need the wind tunnel. this is a legacy game so the gpu does not offload any strain from the cpu. the other alternative is to watercool. im old fashioned and do not see putting water near electronics. also the wind tunnel cools my ssd's hdd's and ram (32 gigs)
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  18. This is how big my cpu heatsink is, comparin the old one to the new one its looking big and i thought the old one was big
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    blueskies,
    Regarding the whistle...

    its not the gpu making the noise, its the cpu, its 8 core so will get hot and noisy. its typically quiet when under normal web browsing mode. The one thing that is VERY annoying is there is a weird kind of whistle coming from the sound card port, its not got a fan or anything mechanical, it just makes a weird whistle type of noise. I've never had a pc do that before.
    Check the CPU temperature alarm limit in the BIOS. When I upgraded to an i7 on a Gigabyte motherboard with a large Zalman CPU cooler, I set the BIOS CPU temperature alarm limit too low. Under load, a weird whistle would begin. It wasn't loud, just annoying. When the load went away, the whistle would stop. At first, I thought it had something to do with the regulator inductors on the motherboard. Wrong.

    I installed Gigabyte's System Information Viewer, allowing me to view temperatures in real time while the PC was running under various loads. I could see the CPU temperature increase and once it went over my set limit, the whistle would begin. Ultimately, I increased the CPU alarm limit by 10 degrees and the whistle issue was solved. The whistle still occurs for about a second on initial power up. I'm guessing that might be part of the power up test, giving an audible to verify the onboard alarm sounder is working.

    creakndale
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    similar to what I used to replace the similar heatsink and fan you currently have. it works great add a fan to the other side of that and it will cool even better. point the outgoing flow to a fan facing outside of the case I think the best is up (heat rises) add a fan to the bottom of the case pulling cool air in.
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    Back on my FX-6300 I would prevent the CPU from maxing out to 3.5Ghz and prevent the single core boost by going to my windows control panel, pick out the balanced preset and also edit the preset so that the max CPU usage is limited to 99%. This limited the CPU to 3.0Ghz. The power savings are drastic with less drastic loss in performance. Also clean your fans every few months if you don't have filters. Limiting the CPU to like 80% will force the CPU to around 1.5Ghz, making the CPU need next to no cooling.

    Image
    [Attachment 52246 - Click to enlarge]


    Don't dump any more money into your AMD FX 8350 cooling, but just invest that money into a Ryzen upgrade.
    Last edited by KarMa; 6th Mar 2020 at 01:43.
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  22. Originally Posted by the_man_one View Post
    similar to what I used to replace the similar heatsink and fan you currently have. it works great add a fan to the other side of that and it will cool even better. point the outgoing flow to a fan facing outside of the case I think the best is up (heat rises) add a fan to the bottom of the case pulling cool air in.
    Well, in a bid to make my aging PSU fan silent I turned the device upside down, meaning it draws air from the back of the pc into the pc rather than blowing it out. Also a top tip I learned, fans can have oil wells in them so you can actually put oil in it to make it quiet.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPyHBH3WwBM
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    those are to lube the sleeve bearings , they come out with oil impregnated brass bearings. the oil just replenishes from normal wear. the reason I know this is because im an electric motor tech
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