Just setup my registration as I was directed here by a nerd friend.
I probably will have many questions as I'm digitizing many forms of 16mm film and pictures to be stored and given to family members.
You see I'm 70 and I just hate to see the stuff just get thrown out in its present form so I have committed myself in taking care of business.
I have many over 40 years playing with computers and now running Win10 Pro on my desktop and laptops.
My future threads will be what many of you may use to convert vob disk format to mpg.
Have been looking at Adobe Premiere Elements 2020 and Corel Videostudio Ultimate 2019
So that's it for now and hope to hear from you soon.
Iggytech in the cool part of Arizona
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doom9.org has several extremely long threads about restoring film once transferred, but they also contain considerably discussion about transfer techniques:
The power of Avisynth: restoring old 8mm films
Look at the links the OP posts in his initial post. Also look at his Vimeo video example.
He provides even more examples here:
The power of Avisynth: new 8mm film restoring examples
He then posted a follow-on thread here:
Capturing and restoring old 8mm films
I posted extensively in all three of these threads, and provided my own versions of his scripts which were designed to speed them up, make them work better with slightly damaged film (most of his film is pristine), and make different tradeoffs which suited my taste. My version ended up being significantly different.
FWIW, I am only three years younger than you. I own a Workprinter (MovieStuff's original transfer system for 8mm & Super 8) and then designed my own frame-accurate transfer system for 16mm.
The one key thing, if you are going to spend a lot of time doing this, is to make sure your system is frame-accurate, meaning you get exactly one frame of film onto one frame of video. You mostly definitely do NOT want to simply point the video camera at the projection screen and try to capture that because you will be blends of adjacent frames, and the result will flicker like crazy because some frames will be captured while the projector shutter is closed.
I hope that helps!
If you're interested, this YouTube video, while fuzzy (YouTube encoding) gives you an idea of what restoration can do for your transfers:
I had a friend tell me if you have a dvd with video on it as vob extensions just copy all the vob's to your HD and change vob to mpg.
Guess what it worked.
I now have 4 parts of my video on my HD and they play as regular mpg movies.
Now I can add them together and edit and re-render them
You'll be better off using one of the programs jagabo mentioned to make real MPGs. Might as well learn how to do things right.
I just looked at Youtube video of the restoration and that is exactly what I have and need to do.
It just show I have a lot to learn and ready to do the work.
Downloaded both Avisynth and vob converter programs and will post some before and after shots of my old film moving.
Thank You all for getting mo on the right path.
As jagabo has said, you really do need to use a VOB converter.
The name change can work, but usually doesn't. The reason is that VOB files can contain subtitles, multiple audio tracks, and other elements that are not part of the MPEG-2 spec. When on a DVD, they also have to be split up into 1 GB chunks and very often these won't join back together again without glitches at the transition point.
Finally, because of all the extra stuff in a VOB, some programs won't even load them all the way. My NLE, Vegas, will often only show roughly thirty seconds of a VOB, not matter how long the video. Again, this has to do with the difference in structure and the extra stuff contained in them.
The good news is that when properly converting a VOB to MPEG-2, using the correct tool, no re-encoding of either the video or the main audio track is required, so you will not lose one speck of quality.