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  1. Long time lurker, first time poster (I believe).

    I've been using the Haup USB-Live2 to preserve my LaserDiscs, BetaCams, VHS, etc for a while now, and I've noticed that occasionally during captures that the brightness will jump up and down. It's subtle, but definitely noticeable.

    Here's a sample from my JAWS LaserDisc:

    This is WITHOUT my AVT-8710 unit. Even WITH the TBC, the brightness still changes. I thought it was the TBC at first, as it's the infamous black unit, but it happens even without it. I have the capture card plugged into a USB 3.1 port, on the back of my motherboard. Running Windows 10 and capturing with AmaRec. Set all proc-amp settings to DEFAULT, with the exception of putting SHARPNESS at 0.

    Am I better off just replacing this USB device for something better? I'm all for replacing it if there's something better out there, especially if it has a 3D comb filter!
    Last edited by JawsTDS; 3rd Jul 2019 at 18:20.
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  2. Make sure to disable any "auto" controls in the capture device's proc amp settings. Ie, no auto brightness, auto contrast, etc. Make those adjustments manually.
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  3. There are none for this unit.
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  4. Sharpness at 0? I usually just leave it at the default value 50. Now you've got me wondering . . . Sigh. I feel some more test captures coming on. As to the flickering, can't say I've noticed this on any of my captures. Is it possible that it's anything to do with any copy protection systems on the source? If you just run the source straight into the TV, do you still get the changes without the USB Live2 being involved?

    OK. Just watched your example . . . that's quite a significant change. Definitely haven't seen that with my Live2. I'm afraid all I can suggest is a bit of switch cleaner on all the cable connections - just in case you've got a high(er) resistance connection somewhere - and make sure that your source machine (laserdisc?) has got reasonable airflow around it and isn't overheating - My first Liteon DVD Recorder sometimes used to overheat a bit and add a greenish cast (IIRC) to it's recordings. Since then I've always increased the air gap under my AV equipment, and it always seems to behave itself. Empty CD cases work quite well.

    Let us know if you track down the cause. Good luck.

    p.s. Are the changes consistent? i.e. if you were to re-capture those same portions of video, would you still see those changes happen at the same place?

    p.p.s. What codec are you using to capture? Do you still get the issue if you change codec? (I tend to use Lagarith as I still get the best compression with it compared with the other lossless codecs I've tried.)
    Last edited by TimA-C; 4th Jul 2019 at 07:23. Reason: Another question. And another
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  5. Capturing Lagarith with secure connections all around. No brightness change on the TVs that I watch them on.

    I did try something new and plug the capture device into an actual USB 2.0 port, rather than a USB 3.1 port. I haven't seen the brightness change yet after about 15 minutes of straight watching, though this may change.
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  6. Originally Posted by JawsTDS View Post
    I did try something new and plug the capture device into an actual USB 2.0 port, rather than a USB 3.1 port. I haven't seen the brightness change yet after about 15 minutes of straight watching, though this may change.
    That doesn't make any sense. The video is already digitized by the time it's sent over the USB cable. USB2 vs. USB3 should make no difference in the data received by the computer.
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  7. That's what's tripping me up, I didn't think it should OR would change anything, but I haven't seen a change in brightness just yet, unless the USB port had some strange power issue. I will report back either way as soon as I see it.
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  8. Originally Posted by JawsTDS View Post
    unless the USB port had some strange power issue.
    USB2 can only provide 500 mA where USB3 can provide 900 mA. So maybe the device isn't getting quite enough power from USB2. Brightness pumping isn't what I'd guess to be the first symptom but I suppose it's possible.
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  9. As the Live2 is a USB2 device it shouldn't be using the extra connections available in the USB3 socket . . . ?

    Going back to one of my earlier questions, did you try re-capturing the same bit of video to see if the brightness jumps occurred in the same places each time? I'm just thinking if it's somehow related to the image/data and the conversion process done by the Live2 then I would imagine that the same data would probably trigger the same brightness jumps? If it's something like a fluctuating voltage somewhere else then that would probably be independent of what the live2 was capturing at the time, wouldn't it? As you're not seeing any jumps when watching the source directly then it's probably not an issue with the source, but either your PC or the Live2. But if you're not seeing the same issues when plugged into the USB2 socket then that might suggest that it's not the Live2?

    Are there any voltage monitoring utils available from your motherboard's manufacturer? Failing that, there are a number of 3rd party utils available that can monitor various voltages in your PC, but I think I'd have more faith in the accuracy of one from the manufacturer.
    Last edited by TimA-C; 5th Jul 2019 at 05:27. Reason: Too many 'be's
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