I actually use my old PC, to do my video conversions. Mainly to do some movie Blu-ray 1080p x264 rips with virtual dub mod and some filters.
I actually do some anime rips to x264 1080p with avisynth filters.
All of these encodes takes a lot of time (6-8 hours for movies) and 3-4 days (!) to the anime rips.
Its a lot of time.
I want to build a new pc from scratch, piece by piece but I dont have the hardware knowledge to do the right choices.
The purpose is to do 1080p x265 with avisynth filters and eventually some UHD rips in much less time.
Can you please help me to configure a setup? Piece by piece?
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i7-6700K or faster.
Noctua cooling suggested, big Antec case suggested
Asrock motherboards are worth the premium, like the Extreme7+
16gb RAM helps
SSD for at least OS drive, 4tb Seagates for data
For x265, as fast a CPU that exists will be best.
The graphics card doesn't really come into play, the onboard motherboard Intel graphics is fine. All graphics cards do is add heat and waste money, if not playing video games.
All those x264 encodes you're doing would probably take me a few hours at most. Depends on settings.
I would suggest rather 8700K, it is better and with motherboard even cheaper than i7-6700K + motherboard. At least in our country. Much cheaper and better.
Sorry if in other country is it otherwise.
Hi Lord Smurf,
here is comparisson of CPU's problem is skylake motherboard is not compatible with coffeelake, but you know it. CPU is bit 20 USD? expensive, but motherboards are cheaper.
Here is comparison I hope it is in everyone native language. And coffeelake is much recent.
Edit-but K are usually sold without cooler. Need good one. If you are not experienced, better to let it build by someone else. Or bought whole computer.
Last edited by Bernix; 14th Aug 2018 at 18:34. Reason: Wrong recalculation to USD :)
I think that I am planning to invest around 2500.- dollars/eur.
CPU Cooling: Noctua (?)
Motherboard: Asrock Extreme7
RAM: 16Gb DDR4-2666
PSU:Corsair RM 550x (?)
Case: Antec (?)
General case colline: (?)
Last edited by david.dgc; 15th Aug 2018 at 02:00. Reason: Joining more information
it states DDR4-2666. Memory isnt cheaper nowadays. But check also Ryzen. But it bet on plenty of cores but in feature it seems to be better choice than intel. So also it depends on time you can wait and so on. Probably there are some Ryzen fans that can compare better.
PSU is very important part of computer. I have Corsair Rx550 and it is super PSU. But i got only intel with tdp 65 and GPU 1070ti that can take 180W and PSU i can't buy better. Corsair isn't actually manufacturer of this PSU but quality is great. You have to have some reserve. Depends mostly on CPU and GPU other things in computer consumes too, but not so much.
If you are not planing play games and have SLI, so you can probably go with bit cheaper micro ATX but it depends. It is bit smaller and cheaper, but not any speed loss when doing video conversion.
Last edited by Bernix; 14th Aug 2018 at 19:01. Reason: PSU
I just edited my previous post with some of your feedback.
I read something about hydro cooling? What do you think about it?
One of the important points that I want to fix is the noise cooling that the PC makes anytime he is encoding... Very anoying. I wanted some effective cooling and it should be the most silence possible.
A fast CPU helps. 3.5Ghz or so. Lots of CPU cores help with H.264/H.265 encodes. I prefer Ryzen 8 core CPUs, but AMD or Intel is OK.
CPU cooler, I've been using liquid coolers for several years. Quiet and efficient. Corsair is my favorite. About the same price as a top brand air cooler.
Motherboard, I like GIgabyte, but there are many good brands available. Micro ATX MBs have also gotten very good, depends on how many PCI slots you need.
RAM, 16GB is good. Encoding doesn't need as much, editing does. Speed depend on motherboards and CPU. JMO, but very fast RAM doesn't do much for encoding speed. DDR4 RAM is pretty standard at present. Most of the name brand RAM is good.
But check your MB specifications on what is needed or recommended. Corsair, Geil, or other and the speed recommended.
Drives: Definitely a SSD or M.2 SSD boot drive.Then several TB size data/storage HDDs.
Power supply, 500 - 800W quality brand. Fully modular helps with wire management, but not required. Cheap PS's endanger your whole system.
GPU not that important, IMO. I only use my video card for display. Some Micro ATX MBs have decent on board GPUs.
Case, something with good airflow, fans and decent quality. I prefer 120mm fans, 2 in front with filters and 1 or 2 in back.
PWM fans are more efficient and quiet.
One Blu-ray reader/burner is usually sufficient.
It's fairly easy to assemble a PC. I've built quite a few. The one in my Computer Profile:
EDIT: I forgot to add the OS. W10 Pro and Start10 from Stardock to manage the menus. I don't like the stock W10 menus.
Last edited by redwudz; 15th Aug 2018 at 02:46.
AviSynth scripts and encoding settings look? CPU/GPU utilization What CPU/GPU do you have?
Maybe there are other things you should optimize.
With your budget even something like Core i9 7900X or some other CPU with >8 cores might be worthwhile. But not all filters/encodings scale well with many cores.
The i7-8700K would be better for gaming while the Ryzen 7 2700x would perform better in multicore situations like video encoding as the 2700x has two extra cores. As for x265 and the much touted AVX-512 in latest Intel CPUs, it does not seem to be panning out when it comes to encoding faster with x265.
If I choose the i7-8700K which motherboard should i pick for good performance?
And with the Ryzen 7 2700x which motherboard?
MSI Z370 GAMING PLUS (Intel)
MSI X470GPLUS Performance GAMING (AMD)
These are mostly the same boards besides the different sockets and some other minor stuff. Full size ATX.
Look at your script for avisynth first. Faster is always better but if you do alot of post processing then you'll see a bottleneck as its single threaded in most cases. I got a old i7 3630m that sits 50% idle on 480p stuff as its waiting on hqdn3d to finish. On 1080p the effect should be less, but on 8 cores plus you may see this still. Only workaround is run multiple encodes, filter less, or split the movie up, or wait. X265 does use more CPU, but can only run as fast as it can be fed framesif all else fails read the manual
I don't like MSI at all, nothing but problems. Asrock or Gigabyte or bust.
I don't have water cooling, and don't have noise. The idea that water cooling = silent is a myth, as the pumps make noise. In fact, everything water cooling pump I've seen makes more noise than my fan cooled setup, which make maybe 20-25db at most (30db is a whisper, 35db is usually a water pump). My meter starts at 30, and this doesn't register. It all depends on the number, size, and brand of the fans. And room and vents in the case. I have 2x 140nm Noctua inside an Antec 300 II, and that's it. I don't have a wind tunnel, because I didn't make one. The Seagate 4tb make more noise than the fans, and those are not noisy like WD/Hitachi drives. The only way to go quiet is to completely remove the system from this room, and run USB cables through the wall.
I also opened my PSU (screw the warranty), and replace that fan with Noctua 120nm.
@redwudz, you probably took great care in selecting your parts, like me, and probably do have a setup you find acceptably quiet.
My reply isn't intended for you.
No problem. My Corsair water cooler is about the same sound level as a quiet aquarium pump.
I have had a few 'wind tunnel' air coolers that were fairly loud.
But I'm sure there are some that are fairly quiet. I also like PWM fans that can be very quiet with a light CPU load, but ramp up quickly to keep the temps under control. Larger fans are usually more quiet for the same amount of air movement. I use mostly 120mm fans.
And it helps to place a PC nearer the floor and further from your ears to reduce perceived noise.
I have mostly Gigabyte MBs and a couple of Asrock MBs. No complaints about either.
And I do have a few Noctua fans. Very good quality and quiet.
Why has no one mentioned Threadripper ?
Here's a partial parts list for a 1920x build just add optical drives.
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mbVQcY
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mbVQcY/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Threadripper 1920X 3.5GHz 12-Core Processor ($486.03 @ Newegg Marketplace)
CPU Cooler: Enermax - LiqTech TR4 360 102.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte - X399 AORUS Gaming 7 ATX TR4 Motherboard ($364.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($229.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($122.85 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($110.90 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C Dark TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($85.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-08-17 02:15 EDT-0400
But MSI has a much higher than normal fail rate. It's not just opinion, you can verify this with vendor returns. It's not a secret, and has been well known for years online and off. It's used on budget builds, never anything high end, especially not for continual use. MSI is the board used for your mom. (But I still use Gigabyte, even for the parents). If quality matters, not cheap price (or "bang for your buck" nonsense), MSI shouldn't be on your list.
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
I generally buy everything at Amazon or Newegg, best return policies. (At least in U.S.)
If quality matters, not cheap price (or "bang for your buck" nonsense), MSI shouldn't be on your list.
of course you have to buy PSU that suits how much your PC consumes energy. Cheap PSU, you can have luck but you also couldn't. 500W cheap PSU can be unable to feed 300W PC. But there is also great chance it fails soon.
There is on internet pages how much energy you will save with 80+ bronze, silver, gold and platinum. Since you want encoding a lot, then you can check this too.
When you buy good PSU you have about 10 years guarantee seems to me be pretty nice. In my PSU cooler start working just when it comes to high consumption, not sure if it was on since I bought it.
Didn't PSU work best at around 90% of usage? So nonsense to buy 1000W for 500W PC.
Nobody mentioned Asus. Asus is one of best manufacturers of motherboards.
I got Gigabyte 1050ti Aorus GPU, and have to say, GPU worked. But not all features. Software tried to connect to internet (Led lighting feature soft) and didn't work properly. So I don't like it much.
Edit - Also I see you decided to buy 1060, nvidia has (probably still because it is not too much ago) 1060 + SSD kingstone for free.
Last edited by Bernix; 17th Aug 2018 at 07:55. Reason: Edit
[Edit] I found a thread at another website discussing return rates: https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/most-reliable-brand-of-motherboards.2499756/
The difference in return rates across brands, in general, seems fairly small. The difference in return rates for individual chipsets can vary significantly by brand. The thread starter notes this is especially true for high-end chips that support over-clocking.
Last edited by usually_quiet; 17th Aug 2018 at 12:26.Ignore list: hello_hello, tried, TechLord
I've used, ASUS, ASRock, MSI, GIGABYTE, Biostar, ECS, and SuperMicro MBs.
No DOA's yet with about 30 MBs. I mostly use GIGABYTE as I generally like their features. And I mostly build AMD PCs, with just a few Intel MBs.
All manufactures test their MBs before packaging them. An occasional bad one can get through, but it's really rare.
My experience with cheaper MBs is that they may use a limited feature BIOS and can be a little hard to set up, and the MBs themselves may lack some features, such as enough SATA sockets or PCI slots. I also favor MBs with solid capacitors as they seem to last longer.
But that's why I read the manufactures specifications. And then I usually download the motherboard manual from the manufacturer.
And I do read reviews, but a fair number of the writers seem to have little PC experience. Of course if 50% of the reviews are negative, then there may be a problem with that particular MB.
Intel processors for video. Compared to AMD they screama long, but also run very very hot when compared to AMD
I've had both. Used AMD but changed to Intel for years then had a try an an AMD mother set-up as it was all I could afford at the time, should have waiting and upgraded to another Intel. Its not slos by any means but IS slower than the Intel i7 I had before even though it claims to be quicker
If you intend to overclock an Intel i7 you WILL need water cooling or a GOOD quality BIG air cooler and they run REALLY hot when overclocked, even when running within the limits of the processor
ASUS or Gigabyte mother boards, possibly Gigabyte are better for overclocking, but you NEED a good multi-phase power supply on your motherboard if you want to overclock. Don't skimpy on the motherboard or you will just end up paying out again for a better one later as you find out the motherboard is a bottleneck on the processor
16GB minimum really, that overhead helps a lot. If I could afford it I'd get another 16GB and take mine to 32GB. Photoshop can be a serious memory hog on high quality big images
Gigabyte motherboards. Extremely low failure rate over dozens of examples over 30 years.
I would not touch an ASUS mobo with a ten foot pole. Unreliable tweaker crap. If you absolutely have to have all the OC settings you will never use, and can live with a PC that crashes every 2-3 days, then an ASUS is just right for you. Just for one example, look up the BIOS updates on the ASUS site for a Crossblade Ranger II, and pay attention to the reason for the update. Short version, TEN (10) or more to "increase system stability". Also, try and get a warranty return from this company. Seen all of these over many years that I care to.
MSI is slightly better, Asrock maybe another notch up. But, slightly better than total crap just ain't good enough. Biostar? Just say no.
When I recommend and install a mobo, if it fails under warranty, I replace it for free, and I don't like working for free, not to mention the customer is unhappy. I have NEVER had to replace a Gigabyte board under warranty, and cannot remember one that failed in less than 10 years. Most recent one was 12-15 years old. I have not and will never recommend an ASUS board, and if customer requested, I make clear that I will NOT provide free labor under warranty.
There is nothing that will heat a CPU like a long encoding task, you need lots of fans, BIG fans, BIG heatsinks, cool air IN, hot air OUT, liquid cooling scales well into the higher heat removal areas. Cooling the CPU with air from OUTSIDE the case is a huge improvement.
I would not touch an ASUS mobo with a ten foot pole.
Another thing. Nobody talked about overclocking. If you want stable system do not do it. Not sure if there is real benefits of OC your cpu. You get bit faster CPU but at cost of system stability and most probably bigger electricity bills. I'm not friend of OC, can break waranty or shorter life of CPU or GPU. OC is good for enthusiasit that can say to friends I achieved 5ghz from 4ghz CPU. But is it worth for everyday use? Probably you achieve meltdown of your CPU instead.
Thank you all for your answers.