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  1. Originally Posted by manono View Post
    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    Is it free software with histograms that I could use to check the brightness levels?
    Yes, completely free. And with a pretty steep learning curve. I don't use any of them, but I expect NLEs have them available as well. If you want to use the Histogram in AviSynth, after you figure out how to open your video you add the line:

    Histogram

    to your script.

    ...but unfortunately I don't think I'll ever have the time to do that for all my videos.
    Then about the best you can do is to find some sort of a happy medium by setting brightness and contrast as best you can, but what the sample on YouTube shows isn't it. And why the black bars on the sides? Is that some sort of limitation of your capturing device?

    Would you recommend that I switch it to 7.5?
    Yes, as that's the US NTSC standard.

    http://www.glennchan.info/articles/technical/setup/75IREsetup.html


    Hi manono, thanks so much again for your response! I will be sure to set it to 7.5 IRE. I really appreciate the link you posted too, thank you! I'm trying to educate myself as best as I can on all this, haha.

    I had no idea that my NLE had a histogram, but you're right, it does. I use Sony Vegas Pro 12 to edit. I just imported my captures into Sony Vegas and looked at the histograms. Is there any advantage to using AviSynth over Sony Vegas, or do you think Sony Vegas should suffice?

    I have to be honest, I don't have much of a clue about what these histograms mean, haha. I did do a little bit of research, watched a few YouTube videos, and it appears that the idea is not to let the "giant white shape" go too far to the left or to the right, haha. But that's about all i understand. Is there any chance anyone knows of a good resource that could help a noob like me understand more about histograms? (I can't seem to find anything beyond random YouTube videos, which aren't very helpful).

    In any case, when I looked at the histogram for the capture I did in which the contrast was set to "30," the "white shape" was very much toward the left side of the histogram. While in Vegas, I upped the brightness (and really upped the contrast) in order to make the "white shape" more centered. I have no idea what this means haha, but I do have that white shape more "centered" with these settings! Here is a video of the before and after:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkctmhMN_0w&feature=youtu.be

    If there's any chance anyone could explain what the "white shape" means, or what the numbers at the top (from 0 to 255) mean, or how the "mean" or "standard deviation" apply to it, that would be greatly appreciated!! I'm also unsure of how to raise the "white shape" or lower it, i.e. make it go more toward the top or bottom of the histogram screen (or is that something I even want to do?).

    Additionally, as I mentioned, unfortunately I don't think I'll ever have the time to edit the videos after I capture them. So I'm guessing the best process for me would be to do several test captures (adjusting the brightness and contrast in StreamCatcher differently for each capture), then import the captures into Sony Vegas to take a look at the histograms, then go back to my capture software to adjust the captures accordingly until the histograms look good - would that be correct?

    So sorry to use such crude terms throughout this post, I am well aware of how much of a noob I am, haha. Thank you so much again, I really appreciate the help and the education!!!!!
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  2. Originally Posted by JVRaines View Post
    It's best to use the 'scopes in your NLE or the histogram function of Avisynth. These will show you the actual levels that you are stuck with in the digital domain. A video oscilloscope is a great toy, but (1) you cannot assume a used scope is in good calibration, and (2) it only shows you what is going into the converter. There is nothing wrong with using your eyes, either. Although not optimal, adjusting levels to maintain dark and light detail will not hurt you if your monitor is in poor calibration.
    Awesome, thank you very much for the feedback JVRaines! It sounds like you're saying the scopes in Sony Vegas should suffice, so I will continue to use them as opposed to using AviSynth since that has a bit of a learning curve. I will also be sure to use my eyes in addition to the scopes - I'm not sure I like the way it looks in the YouTube video above even though I think the histogram shows it's more adjusted. I'll see if I can find a good balance. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!
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  3. Originally Posted by jwillis84 View Post
    However, my Toshiba VCR does actually have an option in the menu screen for IRE. I currently have it set to "0," which according to the manual is "the standard NTSC reference black level for consistent brightness/contrast across all sources." I do have the option of changing it to "7.5," which the manual states "will enhance the black level for increased brightness/contrast when viewing DVDs." Would you recommend that I switch it to 7.5?

    Also, you mentioned that it'd be better for me to fix the problem on the input and not the output. Would it be better for me to see if I could change the brightness/contrast levels on the VCR itself rather than adjusting it in my capture software (StreamCatcher)?

    Thanks again for your detailed message, I really appreciate it!
    Basically "YES" you do want to turn that "on" to 7.5.

    If you have the option/equipment or skill to "fix" the Black and White levels "before" capture its always best. If you do not then you can sort of fix it afterwards in software with a penalty.. some quality will have been lost.. and you can't "make up a loss".. that's permenant.

    Mostly people worry about the Black and White levels.. and choose to forget about Color problems until they try to fix it in software after capture. Flipping an IRE set-up switch is low effort and worth your time. A proc-amp, scopes and learning to use them take a lot more time and effort.

    If you had to "Settle" for a B&W image with sound.. its better than nothing. It won't be that bad.. but its an example of setting priorities and expectations.

    Ultimately there is an infinite amount of time and money you could spend "perfecting" everything.. but the enemy of the "good" is the "perfect".

    At some point you just have to choose to do the "easy" things you can do to improve the picture and decide its "good enough".
    Awesome, thank you very much for all the info jwillis!

    You mentioned that it's always best to fix the black and white levels before capture. Since I have such an enormous collection of home videos, I don't think I'll ever have time to edit them after capturing them anyway, so fixing them before capture is exactly what I want to do!

    When you say I should fix the black and white levels before capture, is there any way to do this other than to make sure the brightness/contrast levels are set properly in my capture software? (StreamCatcher). Or is there something else you'd recommend I do? At the very least, I will be sure to turn up the IRE to 7.5.

    To be honest, you're probably right - I tend to try to perfect everything, but I'll probably have to settle for "good enough" in the end, haha. Thanks so much again for your help, I sincerely appreciate it!
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    You had better try both the "0 IRE" and "7.5 IRE" settings on your Toshiba to find out what's really going on. The explanations in the user manual appear to be precisely backward, or perhaps the engineers got the names switched. I wouldn't blindly set it to 7.5 without checking the result.
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  5. I agree with JVRains -- test both IRE settings. But I suspect it will make no difference with VHS tapes and that it's there only for DVD playback.
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    Jagabo is correct, the only way to be sure is try it both ways.
    Last edited by jwillis84; 8th Jun 2018 at 02:59.
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  7. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    I'd like to digitize all of my VHS home videos from the 1980s and 1990s
    Tony
    The VCR (S-VHS with internal line TBC suggested), and external TBC, are even more important that the capture card. I cannot stress this enough.

    Originally Posted by usually_quiet View Post
    The ATI TV Wonder HD 600 USB TVW600USB is also well-regarded but has not been in production for at least 10 years.
    Some of us have a few extras to spare.

    Drivers for the TVW600USB may be found here:
    The Windows 7 driver download has both 32-bit and 64-bit device drivers.
    Unwise. Issues have been reported. Force installing the Vista driver works flawlessly all the way to Win10.

    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    Hauppauge -610-USB-Live-Digitizer
    Beware. Hauppauge likes to recycle card model numbers, and sometimes the actual innards of the cards vary in time. So the respected chipset may not be there anymore, even when the card has the same model number.

    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    I'm playing around with the StreamCatcher software
    Don't.

    Originally Posted by usually_quiet View Post
    Most HD capture devices have trouble with VHS capture
    Again, cannot stress this enough. Many fail, even with a TBC in the workflow.

    Originally Posted by LMotlow View Post
    Aren't there already about 2,500,641 posts that cover this same material?
    +1 more now.
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  8. Hello all!

    An update - I have been digitizing my old home VHS's for about a year now! (Very off and on!). Over time, I have switched a few settings that have improved video quality - figured I'd post them here for anyone out there who may be using the same technology! Using StreamCatcher, I switched the Video Deinterlace setting to "Low" (I previously had it on "High," but that seemed to create distortion of the picture anytime the camera moved around - made me a bit dizzy!). I also switched the IRE in my VCR to 7.5 (much brighter looking picture, and you can see more detail in the blacks/greys). I switched the "Brightness" to 60 and the "Contrast" to 42 (these settings seemed to give the best results for my VHS tapes). I spent months playing around with these settings, and these seemed to provide the best results.

    I do have one last question, and I can't seem to find anything in this forum about it. The Toshiba VCR I'm using to play the VHS tapes has a built-in feature called "3D Noise Reduction." I currently have this turned "Off." Should I turn it "On?" I'm playing around with it now, and so far I don't really notice much of a difference. Wasn't sure if anyone had any experience with built-in features like this on another VCR.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated as always! Thanks so much and I hope everyone is well!!!
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  9. Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    The Toshiba VCR I'm using to play the VHS tapes has a built-in feature called "3D Noise Reduction." I currently have this turned "Off." Should I turn it "On?" I'm playing around with it now, and so far I don't really notice much of a difference.
    I don't know that particular combo unit but 3D noise reduction requires simultaneous access to multiple frames. So the video must be digitized for 3DNR to be applied. It may be that the filter is only applied when recording onto DVD, not when simply playing VHS tapes.
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  10. Originally Posted by jagabo View Post
    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    The Toshiba VCR I'm using to play the VHS tapes has a built-in feature called "3D Noise Reduction." I currently have this turned "Off." Should I turn it "On?" I'm playing around with it now, and so far I don't really notice much of a difference.
    I don't know that particular combo unit but 3D noise reduction requires simultaneous access to multiple frames. So the video must be digitized for 3DNR to be applied. It may be that the filter is only applied when recording onto DVD, not when simply playing VHS tapes.
    Thanks jagabo, that makes sense!! This VCR was mainly produced for copying VHS to DVD. I'll leave the 3D Noise Reduction off then. Thanks again, hope you've been well!!
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  11. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    HUsing StreamCatcher, I switched the Video Deinterlace setting to "Low" (I previously had it on "High," but that seemed to create distortion of the picture anytime the camera moved around - made me a bit dizzy!).
    Using deinterlace at all was a mistake.
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  12. Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
    Originally Posted by CaptainCatholic587 View Post
    HUsing StreamCatcher, I switched the Video Deinterlace setting to "Low" (I previously had it on "High," but that seemed to create distortion of the picture anytime the camera moved around - made me a bit dizzy!).
    Using deinterlace at all was a mistake.
    Hey lordsmurf! Haha absolutely, I can see that now - more a result of me not knowing what I'm doing, haha. It created some distortion any time the camera moved. Looks much better set to "Low" (I would turn it "off" if that was an option but it's not - although I think that "Low" might actually be "off").
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