Hi manono, thanks so much again for your response! I will be sure to set it to 7.5 IRE. I really appreciate the link you posted too, thank you! I'm trying to educate myself as best as I can on all this, haha.
I had no idea that my NLE had a histogram, but you're right, it does. I use Sony Vegas Pro 12 to edit. I just imported my captures into Sony Vegas and looked at the histograms. Is there any advantage to using AviSynth over Sony Vegas, or do you think Sony Vegas should suffice?
I have to be honest, I don't have much of a clue about what these histograms mean, haha. I did do a little bit of research, watched a few YouTube videos, and it appears that the idea is not to let the "giant white shape" go too far to the left or to the right, haha. But that's about all i understand. Is there any chance anyone knows of a good resource that could help a noob like me understand more about histograms? (I can't seem to find anything beyond random YouTube videos, which aren't very helpful).
In any case, when I looked at the histogram for the capture I did in which the contrast was set to "30," the "white shape" was very much toward the left side of the histogram. While in Vegas, I upped the brightness (and really upped the contrast) in order to make the "white shape" more centered. I have no idea what this means haha, but I do have that white shape more "centered" with these settings! Here is a video of the before and after:
If there's any chance anyone could explain what the "white shape" means, or what the numbers at the top (from 0 to 255) mean, or how the "mean" or "standard deviation" apply to it, that would be greatly appreciated!! I'm also unsure of how to raise the "white shape" or lower it, i.e. make it go more toward the top or bottom of the histogram screen (or is that something I even want to do?).
Additionally, as I mentioned, unfortunately I don't think I'll ever have the time to edit the videos after I capture them. So I'm guessing the best process for me would be to do several test captures (adjusting the brightness and contrast in StreamCatcher differently for each capture), then import the captures into Sony Vegas to take a look at the histograms, then go back to my capture software to adjust the captures accordingly until the histograms look good - would that be correct?
So sorry to use such crude terms throughout this post, I am well aware of how much of a noob I am, haha. Thank you so much again, I really appreciate the help and the education!!!!!
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Vegas should suffice, so I will continue to use them as opposed to using AviSynth since that has a bit of a learning curve. I will also be sure to use my eyes in addition to the scopes - I'm not sure I like the way it looks in the YouTube video above even though I think the histogram shows it's more adjusted. I'll see if I can find a good balance. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!
You mentioned that it's always best to fix the black and white levels before capture. Since I have such an enormous collection of home videos, I don't think I'll ever have time to edit them after capturing them anyway, so fixing them before capture is exactly what I want to do!
When you say I should fix the black and white levels before capture, is there any way to do this other than to make sure the brightness/contrast levels are set properly in my capture software? (StreamCatcher). Or is there something else you'd recommend I do? At the very least, I will be sure to turn up the IRE to 7.5.
To be honest, you're probably right - I tend to try to perfect everything, but I'll probably have to settle for "good enough" in the end, haha. Thanks so much again for your help, I sincerely appreciate it!
You had better try both the "0 IRE" and "7.5 IRE" settings on your Toshiba to find out what's really going on. The explanations in the user manual appear to be precisely backward, or perhaps the engineers got the names switched. I wouldn't blindly set it to 7.5 without checking the result.
I agree with JVRains -- test both IRE settings. But I suspect it will make no difference with VHS tapes and that it's there only for DVD playback.
Jagabo is correct, the only way to be sure is try it both ways.
Last edited by jwillis84; 8th Jun 2018 at 03:59.
Drivers for the TVW600USB may be found here:
The Windows 7 driver download has both 32-bit and 64-bit device drivers.
An update - I have been digitizing my old home VHS's for about a year now! (Very off and on!). Over time, I have switched a few settings that have improved video quality - figured I'd post them here for anyone out there who may be using the same technology! Using StreamCatcher, I switched the Video Deinterlace setting to "Low" (I previously had it on "High," but that seemed to create distortion of the picture anytime the camera moved around - made me a bit dizzy!). I also switched the IRE in my VCR to 7.5 (much brighter looking picture, and you can see more detail in the blacks/greys). I switched the "Brightness" to 60 and the "Contrast" to 42 (these settings seemed to give the best results for my VHS tapes). I spent months playing around with these settings, and these seemed to provide the best results.
I do have one last question, and I can't seem to find anything in this forum about it. The Toshiba VCR I'm using to play the VHS tapes has a built-in feature called "3D Noise Reduction." I currently have this turned "Off." Should I turn it "On?" I'm playing around with it now, and so far I don't really notice much of a difference. Wasn't sure if anyone had any experience with built-in features like this on another VCR.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as always! Thanks so much and I hope everyone is well!!!
I finally got a chance to test out a couple of methods to digitize my VHS-C Tapes! I tried using the original camera, my JVC GR-SXM240u, to digitize the tape. I connected it to my StarTech device via S-Video cable. I was hopeful that this would work, since it sounds like using the original camera is the best method, but unfortunately it didn't come out so well, haha. Here's the result:
As far as I can tell, all the cables were connected correctly. The audio sounds great, however the video is obviously terrible. I even disconnected the S-Video cable from the camera and simply watched the VHS-C tape play on the camera through the camera's video screen; the tape plays just as terribly in the camera itself (with all the white static, although obviously it never displayed the "no signal" which keeps appearing in my digitization). So I'm assuming, as JVRaines said, my JVC GR-SXM240u is simply old and either out of alignment or just degraded? I'm assuming there's nothing I can really do to fix the video camera itself?
On a positive note, I used the JVC C-P7U Cassette Adapter that came with the original camera to try to digitize the video. This worked just fine and appears to be in fairly good quality. Here's a sample:
Interesting video of my teenage self playing the piano while randomly wearing a trenchcoat and sporting a terrible mullet, maybe I shouldn't bother to digitize these, hahaha
If there's nothing I can do to fix my original JVC GR-SXM240u camera, then I guess I will just digitize everything via the JVC C-P7U Cassette Adapter.
Thanks so much as always for all the help!!!!!
If you are still looking for PCIe based capture cards there are only a handful of new devices still on the market.
One worth considering is the "CE310B AVerMedia PCIe video capture card" this contains a 3D / YC filter which will help if you are capturing over composite.
If you are in the UK I have found one supplier https://tinyurl.com/y5k98lqx
If you looking for something a bit more portable, there are quite a lot of ex pro gear hitting second hand markets like ebay.
These convert analogue video / analogue audio to SDI. The digital SDI will then need to be captured to a computer either using a SDI to USB-C device or SDI Recorder card.
Last edited by ironwood321; 9th Aug 2019 at 12:13.
Did you try to clean the video heads on the camera? Based on your example that could be the issue.
The JVC camera you are talking about is a Super-VHS camera. If the tapes were recorded in s-vhs format, normal VHS decks will either not be able to play them properly, or in some cases with SVHS Quasi Plabyack at reduced quality.
I googled "how to clean the video heads on a JVC GR-SXM240u," but nothing relevant came up. Does anyone know of any meaningful resources (or have any useful information) as to how to do this?
I also read this article: https://itstillworks.com/how-to-clean-a-camcorder-head-without-a-cleaning-tape-10407.html Cleaning the camera manually sounds way over my head haha, but I would be more than willing to try a head-cleaning tape; do they make those for VHS-C camcorders?
Thanks again for the help!!
Get a VHS-C cleaning tape and use that. Or play a clean VHS-C tape in it until it cleans itself (maybe hours). Or lastly learn how open it up and clean it by hand, using the suggestions on cleaning VCRs that have been repeated here for decades. Camcorders are more tightly built and harder to clean, so it's not going to be as easy as a normal tabletop VCR.
Hello everyone! I hope everyone is doing well!
I am "chugging along" digitizing my VHS-C Tapes at the moment! Things have been going pretty well except for a very strange problem I noticed!
After digitizing many of my VHS-C Tapes, I've noticed that flashing, white horizontal lines sometimes flicker throughout the picture. Sometimes it only happens at the beginning of the tape, but other times, these lines occur throughout the entire half hour tape. Here is an example of these white lines - this is from the very beginning of a tape, but the white lines actually continue throughout the entire 30 minute tape (sorry for the obnoxious footage of my goofy teenage self, haha):
As a note - when digitizing a VHS-C Tape, I fast-forward the tape to the very end, and then rewind it back to the beginning. I then fast-forward and rewind one more time before digitizing.
Strangely enough, in order to try to get rid of these lines, I started digitizing my VHS-C Tapes twice. (I do 2 "fast-forwards and rewinds" before the 2nd digitization as well). For whatever reason, it does seem like most of the white lines go away during the 2nd digitization. Here's the same tape after I digitized it a 2nd time - as you'll notice, the white lines are literally 100% gone - they don't appear at any time during the entire tape:
Is it possible that playing the tape all the way through at a "normal" speed (as opposed to fast-forwarding and rewinding) somehow "gets rid of" the white lines? (As if it is caused by dust or from not playing through for many years?). Or is this just all in my head, and playing it through or digitizing it twice shouldn't make any difference in regards to the white lines?
Thought I'd check in here for feedback - looking to get rid of these white lines if possible!
Thanks as always!!
Those white lines look like tape dropout.
Could be caused by a bad head, tape degrading or problem with the dropout compensator on your vcr, Speed problem.
Try a different player, try head cleaning.
They are called comets and they are cause by static electricity discharge within the player. It may be that some component heats up after playing for a while and the static goes away. You can sometimes eliminate them by soldering a ground wire between the stationary part of the head mechanism and the other electronics. You can reduce them in post via filtering. For example, RemoveDirtMC() in AviSynth.
Right now, I capture a tape once - then I turn the computer and VCR off, and leave them off until the morning. The next morning, I recapture the same tape I captured the night before. Usually, the 2nd capture is the superior one.
I will keep experimenting - if I can get rid of the comets by capturing twice, I'll probably do that. If not, I'll look into the ground wire you mentioned - I probably will not have time to filter in post, but wish I did.
Thanks so much again for your help jagabo!
So no luck with the SVHS camera? It would probably have given better quality video than the VCR you have, especially if your tapes are recorded in SVHS mode. The VCR can play SVHS-tapes but only in SQPB mode, which is reduced quality. Also, there should be a way to turn off the on-screen display. The camcorder also has a TBC to correct horizontal wiggle which the VCR does not.
As for youtube, when uploading VHS or other analog material, it can be a good idea to upscale it to 960x720 (assuming it's standard 4:3) before uploading. If you upload 720 x 480 (or 576 for PAL) youtube will typically squeze it down to 640x480 at 30 (or 25 if PAL) fps.
is an issue with some Samsung decks, at least the slightly older ones, from what I've read (though never experienced it myself). The mentioned Toshiba here, or at least the VCR part is Samsung made judging by the service manual. The metal bit that provides ground connection between the metal chassis the drum and rest of the mechanism sits on and the PCB can get dirty/corroded/not make contact over time, but it should be an easy fix if that is indeed the issue here. Check the metal spring thing behind the mechanism, and clean with electronic cleaner and/or maybe bend it to make sure it makes contact.
Last edited by oln; 10th Dec 2019 at 20:02.
Thanks so much for the response! No, unfortunately I did not have luck with the original camera - I do still have the camera, and it appears to be in great shape. However, when I play a video back in it, the audio works just fine, but the video is atrocious (a billion white streaks, you can barely see any of the actual video at all). Now that I'm thinking about it, I wonder if it's just the heads - is it possible to clean the heads on a tiny little VHS-C camcorder? That didn't occur to me.
As far as the onscreen display of the VCR, man I wish I could get that annoying display off. I actually tried several things but could not figure it out.
Great information about the metal chassis, thank you so much!!!!!! I will have to try that in addition to cleaning the heads. Really appreciate your help!