I just bough a new old stock Sankyo 500 and there is a loud static noise when a movie is playing and when nothing is playing. How do I get rid of this?
Here is a sample of the noise captured through earphones jack.
https://mega.nz/#!jt8kybxC!ZAHEsnqVfW0rtWwve8692pMeT02WWM92clG6G6bi4P8
I was able to get rid of some but not all of the noise using Audacity software.
I read the capacitors may need to be replaced. Any tutorial on how to replace the capacitors? Where can I buy these capacitors?
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You would likely have to open up the projector to get a look at the circuit board unless you
can get a schematic or repair manual.
Bad capacitors can be bulged out or leaking. Most all of them are marked with their voltage rating and capacity.
Bad capacitors in the power supply section more often cause hum than static.
Not sure how the sound is recorded in that format, whether magnetic or optically on the film,
but other members should be able to tell you more specifics.
Either way, I would check the pickup that would read from the film and see if there is anything obviously wrong. -
Make sure you are using the LINE OUT jack. Not the phones (MON) jack. Make sure the plug is all the way in. Try a different cable.
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Sound is magnetic.
Didn't know bad capacitors in power supply can cause noise problem. I thought this would just make the unit not be able to power on. -
Bad caps can affect the sound. Replacing them is not trivial and not recommended unless you have considerable electronics experience.
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Isn't just simple desoldering and resoldering? I've seen a lot of amateurs on youtube do it.
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Do you have an ESR meter? Do you know how to match capacitance and voltage? Maintain proper polarity? Can you desolder and resolder SMCs? I tend to think not, since you don't even know where to buy capacitors.
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Hence I need the tutorial plus I don't think you need to measure anything when you are just replacing stuff. Just desolder the old capacitors and resolder new ones. See if it works. If it doesn't, then probably you need to start measuring things.
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The static noise has reduced to an acceptable level now. Maybe it was the outlet that I plug into or the capacitors needs to be burned in since it's a new old stock.
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The unit says it uses 117 volts, do I need some kind of converter? Maybe it will eliminate all the noise.
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Your projector is between 38-41 years old, depending where in the production run it was made. Sorry, but the term "new old stock" is rendered total BS once an electronic item hits its tenth birthday, never mind fortieth: the thing is an antique. Sound boards in Super 8 projectors were notoriously cruddy, except maybe for Eumig and Elmo, and even they weren't all that consistent. So the caps have almost certainly drifted off spec by now, despite still being functional. This model has some interior adjustment pots here and there that could easily decay after four decades, and you may be picking up vibration static from the external audio knobs: try one of the cleaning sprays made for audio components. Solder joints cracking or decaying is not unusual in photo gear this old, and one or more connecting wires could get brittle or corroded. Wiring issues are the number one glitch in 70s-80s movie and photo gear: repairmen groan unhappily when you bring them this stuff.
You should be fine as far as voltage goes: the Sankyo 500 had a universal power supply that could use 110v-220v. Running it off a high quality filtered power strip like an ISObar might help a little with noise, putting less stress on the old brittle caps. Besides caps, you've got about a dozen discrete diodes and two ICs on that audio board.
Some residual noise is inherent in the Super 8 magnetic sound system: the coating on Kodak's film isn't flat and smooth like an audio tape, but a raised, uneven bump of magnetic epoxy. Random dropouts and static can be expected as contact with the audio head varies, unless you have one of the less-common silent films with a retrofitted (flat) magnetic tape audio stripe.Last edited by orsetto; 1st Feb 2017 at 18:57.
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ESR is important for high current, high frequency switching... classical - linear PSU ad galvanic separation ESR is not so important.
This sound like corrupted signal path - not sure if single capacitor will help - old electrolytic caps frequently drying so they capacity is way lower than specified - however in such case hum from power network will be significant (way higher than on provided sample) - i would try to check signal path with service manual or at least schematics as guideline.Last edited by pandy; 1st Feb 2017 at 18:43.
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Dose the on board spk sound right and*how about headphone out with reg set of head phone if they sound right then one way to get rid of Hum is with a audio isolators which is a common ground loop problem look for Ground Loop Isolator/Noise Filter that one solve your problem
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The static noise is present from the speakers, line out and earphone out. But it has reduced to an acceptable level now after using it for a few hours.
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Ok then it is for sure a bad cap which just right under main lens you should be able to see when take film cover off
In must cases you have each them tested to see which one went bad*by there ohm reading are as sometime they don't always bulged up or my get luck see*where there leaking on the main board. -
Found out it was RF interference. The projector was near my computer, wifi router. I connected it far away from them and the static went away.
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