VirtualDub Running Slow, Completely Stalling With MCTD

[jagabo]

I was giving newegg links simply as examples of what he might look for. And they publish dimensions of the coolers so it's useful just for that.

[koberulz]

Also be sure your CPU is supported. From it's age, I would guess your i7 is socket 775 -- but check for yourself.

I don't know what that means.

I'm looking here.

[jagabo]

I'm talking about the socket the CPU chip plugs into. Intel changes it with each generation. What model is your CPU? Your profile only says i7 2.66 GHz. The only non-mobile, old, i7 I see at 2.66 GHz is the 920 and it's socket 1366.

http://ark.intel.com/products/37147/Intel-Core-i7-920-Processor-8M-Cache-2_66-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI

The docs for the heat sink tell you which sockets it supports. All the Cooler Master heatsinks at the link you gave support socket 1366 (and 775, if that's what you have).

Beware, you may have to remove the motherboard from the case to install a different support bracket on the back (it will come with the heatsink). Check the mounting instructions for the cooler. Some cases are designed to give you access to the back of the motherboard for this purpose -- I don't think the Antec Three Hundred is.

[LMotlow]

I was giving newegg links simply as examples of what he might look for. And they publish dimensions of the coolers so it's useful just for that.

I realize that (newegg USA usually a pretty good spot for many specs). But newegg in Australia doesn't list CoolerMaster. Looks like he found a local dealer. I've used CoolerMaster several times. Good stuff.

[koberulz]

Without booting up to check, 920 sounds familiar.

I don't believe there is back-of-motherboard access, no. Removing the motherboard is the step at which I have to give up on DIY, too. And my PS4 has started randomly ejecting discs, my Blu-Ray player isn't responding to button presses, and I've just had to replace my TV. Worst. Christmas. Ever.

Would you recommend any of them over the others? Is there anything in particular I should be looking at?

[jagabo]

I'd recommend the 212x because it has a 120mm fan and four heat pipes. Or the 612 if you have room and don't mind spending a little more.

After looking at a few socket 1366 installation videos on youtube I'm pretty sure you'll need to pull the motherboard out of the case.

[koberulz]

Fantastic.

Attaching a picture of the inside of my case. Not really sure how the heatsink goes in, so what exact space I'll need.

[jagabo]

That's a awful lot of dust in the heat sink. You need to clean that out. See if core temps improve.

Check the dimensions of the HS you plan on getting and see if it looks like it will fit in the CPU area. The memory chips are very close to HS. That might be a problem.

[koberulz]

Isn't it the smaller copper bit that actually attaches, though? Would that give a big enough buffer before the heatsink itself? I'm not really sure how it'd all lay out.

The heatsink was completely cleaned of dust about a year ago. Removed from the fan and everything. Surely it doesn't require complete removal and cleaning out that frequently? Is something happening to draw dust in, or something?

EDIT: And if the motherboard is coming off anyway...it's all 8 years old, is it worth looking at entirely new components? Expensive, yes, but better than patching things up every few months?

I remember someone mentioning Skylake CPUs as the top of the line a couple of months ago, and had a look on NewEgg just out of curiosity, and it lists as only being compatible with certain motherboards, and the only motherboard fitting that criteria is only compatible with Windows 7+....motherboards being compatible with operating systems wasn't even a thing that occurred to me before. So I'm not sure what I'd need to know, or what would be the best option, but it's getting more and more tempting to just scrap everything except the RAM, graphics card, case fans, and drives.

[Nelson37]

Get a can of compressed air and a clean small paintbrush, take it outside and blow the bejeesus out of it, use the brush to dislodge chunks, and then do it again. This would be for the CPU heatsink, you know, the one with the problem. Clean all fans and inlet/outlet holes, power supply, etc. Blow baby blow.

Power supply does not appear to have a case exhaust fan. Highly recommended.

Put the fan on the side of the case, the one blowing right at the CPU, back on.

Dust filters can be made with fine panty hose and thin sheet of open cell foam for exterior of case. Panty hose on both sides of filter. Remove and wash regularly, dry thoroughly before replacing.

Absolutely no freaking way you should be seeing those temps, even with the dust. Finally doing a simple test with temps is absolute verification. Very high probability there is TOO MUCH heatsink paste. Layer should be extremely thin. Use dab about one-half a grain of rice. Also possibility the clamps are not on correctly. Verify carefully, those are easy to get wrong, also easy to tell by feel that pressure is correct. High odds one or more is loose. Remove, clean THOROUGHLY, reapply paste, replace is quick and easy.

Emphasize that SOMETHING is very, very wrong with the heatsink installation. If for not other reason, this should be re-done so you know how to do it in the future. Absolutely, positively this one is not done correctly. Getting those temps with a simple file copy is not right.

Do NOT run without heatsink. CPU will get hot enough to put a blister on your finger within 3 seconds of power up. Personally verified.

More fans can go slower and make less noise. Filters help with noise. Removal of dust critical to keep fan speeds low. Too much paste is most common error. Need exhaust at a high point of case to remove hot air. Only quiet way to go is water cooling, though if you get the fans right, sink clean, right amount of paste, external air to CPU and hot case air removed, plus filters, noise should not be too bad.

It would be useful to know what CPU temps were being reached, under specific usage cases, BEFORE the heatsink was removed and replaced the first time. Near certainty the temps were not this high, which would translate to a near-certainty the heatsink was installed incorrectly. This is not my first rodeo, which is why I know the reason that info has not been given, and also why I have been fairly sure from early on that user error is and has been the sole cause of problem.

[jagabo]

And note that unusually slow encoding (your initial complaint) is also an indication the CPU is getting too hot. Modern CPUs throttle back the clock speed when temps get too high.

[koberulz]

Power supply does not appear to have a case exhaust fan. Highly recommended.

A what?

Put the fan on the side of the case, the one blowing right at the CPU, back on.

There has never been a fan on the side of the case. No fans have ever been removed.

Dust filters can be made with fine panty hose and thin sheet of open cell foam for exterior of case. Panty hose on both sides of filter. Remove and wash regularly, dry thoroughly before replacing.

What?

Emphasize that SOMETHING is very, very wrong with the heatsink installation. If for not other reason, this should be re-done so you know how to do it in the future.

If I screwed it up the first time, I'm not sure why I'd do any better the second time.

I do remember the heatsink being a PITA to get back in place, but it seems solid now.

It would be useful to know what CPU temps were being reached, under specific usage cases, BEFORE the heatsink was removed and replaced the first time. Near certainty the temps were not this high, which would translate to a near-certainty the heatsink was installed incorrectly. This is not my first rodeo, which is why I know the reason that info has not been given, and also why I have been fairly sure from early on that user error is and has been the sole cause of problem.

The reason I haven't provided that info is that I don't have it. I may have had it at the time, but it was a year ago. I do remember that the MeGUI encoding errors stopped happening, otherwise I'd have kept troubleshooting them.

[jagabo]

If I screwed it up the first time, I'm not sure why I'd do any better the second time.

It's worth a try. For example, I've seen cases where the thermal compound all squished off to one side rather than spreading evenly over the entire CPU.

[Nelson37]

Not sure if this is a particularly flaming idiot, or a troll.

There is this thing called youtube. Lots of video on heatsink install. Loose versus tight should be simple enough. "To blow" should be a simple enough verb.

I'm really leaning towards troll. Hard to be this stupid. Takes work. Entertaining, though.

That style heatsink is, in fact, exceptionally easy to put on. Very easy to get one side loose. as I mentioned. Simple test but, simple seems to elude you. If you find this hard, do not attempt an aftermarket unit unless you can get an adult to help you.

Is english your primary language, and do your mommy and daddy still buy your toys for you?

Pointless discussion, but not very busy this time of year.

[koberulz]

Yeah, I don't think this looks right.

EDIT: Found this while trying to figure out what measurements I'd need to find out if it'd fit....what's the 'memory clearance' mentioned?

[Nelson37]

A truly massive ****up on the heatsink paste. MUCH more than is required. A bead about half a grain of rice is all you need. CLEAN ALL SURFACES CAREFULLY AND THOROUGHLY FIRST.

[koberulz]

Well, I went the nuclear option: Hyper 212x, Gigabyte GA-H170-HD3 motherboard, and an intel i5-6400.

Got everything plugged in and screwed on and thus and such, but it won't boot past the Gigabyte splash screen; that just sits there. I've tried pressing the keys it mentions, to access BIOS setup or the boot menu or anything else, but nothing happens.

[Nelson37]

If using a wireless keyboard, try a wired one.

Do you have RAM on the board?

Do you hear any beeps?

Did you install the heatsink paste again?

Did you at any time witness smoke, sparks, and possible actual flame erupting from the motherboard?

[koberulz]

RAM is installed, yes. Yes, I did the heatsink paste.

There's no speaker, so no POST codes. The intel board had one, this doesn't, and my case doesn't have one either.

Not sure I own a wired keyboard.

[Nelson37]

Double-check for on-board speaker. You may need to get one, they are cheap and at this point it is your ONLY diagnostic tool.

If the CPU was improperly handled, in the socket wrong, or some of the paste got in the socket, that could do it.

Try unplugging the existing KB, mouse, internal cards and drives, etc. Board, cpu, fan, RAM, video output and monitor ONLY. IF that fails, remove all but one RAM stick, then try another one, also check specs on RAM match the board, also check compatability list.

Something is failing initial POST test. Eliminate all possible items as described. Data cables removed from motherboard.

Also, did you double-check all pre-existing metal standoffs under the mobo, may be an extra one not needed on new board that is causing a short.

Describe amount of heat-sink paste used. Your previous effort was very, very wrong.

[koberulz]

Removed everything and started from scratch. Removed all unused standoffs (only one of which was actually behind the motherboard, but better safe than sorry), used significantly less thermal paste, started plugging things in. Didn't bother with the graphics card or hard drives at all.

Booted into BIOS fine. Added USB wireless keyboard/mouse, could now operate BIOS.

Added graphics card, got stuck on the BIOS splash screen again.

Tried just plugging the monitor straight into the motherboard with the graphics card installed, and just got a black screen.

If I boot with the monitor plugged into the graphics card, I do get the graphics card info before the splash screen, but it definitely does seem to be the problem.


EDIT: Spoke too soon. Managed to get Vista to boot to the Windows loading screen a couple of times, although it immediately rebooted after getting to that point. It's not supposed to be compatible with my hardware, but I'm not sure how much that really means; thought I'd take a stab and see if I could log in., maybe even upgrade rather than running a clean install.

After that, I just got the same issue with the frozen splash screen again. Removed the drive at the drive end, leaving it attached to the motherboard, and I could boot into the BIOS but the keyboard and mouse don't work.

EDIT 2: Removed the SATA cables from the motherboard, and now I'm getting varying results: no splash screen at all, just blackness; the BIOS working for a couple of minutes then freezing; the BIOS working for a couple of seconds then freezing; the shortcut keys disappearing but the splash remaining up and freezing; and the machine rebooting after the splash screen before the BIOS loads.

[Nelson37]

You will need to re-install the OS, do it clean, not an upgrade.

Remove the video card and leave it out, if it was out on these #2 test it sounds like a board problem. Rotate the RAM chips and remove some, but not much else it could be.

[koberulz]

Graphics card was out for all the tests mentioned in the edits.

Is there any way to keep program settings, etc?

I've only got two sticks of RAM now; I had to upgrade that as well as my old RAM was DDR3. I did try swapping them out and around earlier, although only ever with the graphics card in.


EDIT: Tried booting from the Windows 7 installation disc, and it worked. Actually got to the 'completing installation' stage before it froze, but now it won't even load the BIOS splash screen. It's just a permanent black screen.

EDIT 2: Tried installing the graphics card, then removing the graphics card, the hard drive, and the optical drive. Still no dice; my monitor just sits there with the light blinking at me same as when the computer is completely turned off.

[Nelson37]

Here is the deal. There is absolutely no friggin point whatsoever in connecting drives, cards, etc if you can't power up and get to the BIOS reliably. Strip it down to minimum, again, and do what I told you to do originally, and stop wasting your time and mine. One stick RAM, no video card, no cables or drives, power disconnected to drives, board, cpu, fan, RAM - that's it. While doing that, look at your warranty information, and make sure not to mention anything about the standoff contacting the bottom of the board, cause they will void your warranty, and rightfully so.

Boot to BIOS with bare minimum hardware, wait for a couple hours, then boot it 2-3 more times before adding pieces. At that point you can either choose to screw up again or do it the right way and add one piece, boot, wait, boot some more, wait, then add the next one. IF it screws up at minimums, now you have either bad RAM, bad mobo, or bad CPU. A speaker would be a very wise investment as the beep codes might provide a LOT more info than you have now.

If you tell the vendor that you tried the CPU in another board and it worked, and so did the RAM, and IF the ram you got is in fact compatible with the mobo, then that will be sufficient to get an RMA for a replacement board.

[koberulz]

do what I told you to do originally, and stop wasting your time and mine. One stick RAM, no video card, no cables or drives, power disconnected to drives, board, cpu, fan, RAM - that's it.

I'd already tried that, both sides of the attempt with Windows. Made no difference to what was going on (ie freezing during BIOS before, and no display after).

A speaker would be a very wise investment as the beep codes might provide a LOT more info than you have now.

Definitely planning on it. Couldn't do that at the time, though, because it was the middle of the night over here.

If you tell the vendor that you tried the CPU in another board and it worked, and so did the RAM, and IF the ram you got is in fact compatible with the mobo, then that will be sufficient to get an RMA for a replacement board.

It would be silly to make that claim if it weren't true; in case the RAM and/or CPU are the issue. I just took it back and they reckon it's the CPU, they're holding it for testing. When they're done, I'll definitely get a speaker.

The RAM certainly ought to be compatible; I didn't pick it, the guy at the store did. He also made a note of which graphics card I had, so that shouldn't be a compatibility issue either.

[koberulz]

It was a dud CPU. Up and running, sort of (still posting from my laptop due to a lack of a web browser). Tried opening the AviSynth script in the OP, but got an error saying it couldn't locate a decompressor for fourcc hfyu.

What am I missing? I've installed HuffYUV and Lagarith.

[jagabo]

HFYU is ffdshow's variant of huffyuv.

[koberulz]

I just installed ffdshow, it's still not working.

[jagabo]

Enable the decoder in ffdshow. And make sure you enable the right one.

[koberulz]

HuffYUV is set to 'libavcodec', the only alternative is 'disabled' and that doesn't work either.

EDIT: D'oh! Forgot about this.

Now it throws this error:
---------------------------
VirtualDub Error
---------------------------
Avisynth open failure:
FFT3DFilter: Can not load FFTW3.DLL !
(MCTemporalDenoise.v1.4.20.avsi, line 700)
(IntroTestScript.avs, line 4)
---------------------------
OK
---------------------------

I copied across the plugins folder from my previous system drive, but I'm guessing there's more to installing some of them than that? It's been a while.