Huh? There's a fan on the back of the case, and a fan on the top of the case. Additional fans are attached to the heatsinks of the CPU and graphics card.
I'm assuming so. Looks like the picture, and I haven't changed it since I bought the computer.Are you using the stock heat sink and fan that came with the CPU?
Case is an Antec Three Hundred.But a cooler like that might not fit in your case.
EDIT: Couldn't get it to boot into safe mode. Had to press the 'restart' button while Windows was booting to get the option.
EDIT 2: In safe mode. SpeedFan shows speeds of 900, 0, 0, and 0. Top fan now isn't spinning, so that's obviously Fan4.
Core Temp won't run in safe mode, but SpeedFan also has some temps listed: CPU -39, Internal 52, Temp3 58, Temp4 75, HD1 35, Core 0 60, core 2 61, Core 3 62.
Running Applications: SpeedFan.
Running Processes: csrss.exe, csrss.exe, explorer.exe, lsass.exe, lsm.exe, services.exe, smss.exe, speedfan.exe, svchost.exe (x6), System, System Idle Process, taskmgr.exe, wininit.exe, winlogon.exe, WmiPrvSE.exe.
Running Services: AdobeARMservice, AeLookupSvc, AGSService, ALG, Appinfo, aspnet_state, AudioEndpointBuilder, AudioSrv, AVGIDSAgent, avgsc, avgwd, BFE, BITS, Bonjour Service, Browser, CertPropSvc, clr_optimization_v2.0.50727_32, clr_optimization_v2.0.50727_64, clr_optimization_v4.0.30319_32, clr_optimization_v4.0.30319_64, COMSysApp, CryptSvc, DcomLaunch, DFSR, Dhcp, Dnscache, dot3svc, DPR, EapHost, ehRecvr, ehSched, ehstart, EMDMgmt, Eventlog, EventSystem, fdPHost, FDResPub, FontCache, FontCache3.0.0.0, Garmin Device Interaction Service, gpsvc, gupdate, gupdatem, hidserv, hkmsvc, HTCMonitorService, idsvc, IKEEXT, IPBusEnum, iphlpsvc, KeyIso, KtmRm, LanmanServer, LanmanWorkstation, LBTServ, lltdsvc, lmhosts, Mcx25vc, MMCSS, MozillaMaintenance, MpsSvc, MSDTC, MsgPlusService, MSiiSCSI, msiserver, napagent, Netlogon, Netman, NetMsmqActivator, NetPipeActivator, netprofm, NetTcpActivator, NetTcpPortSharing, NlaSvc, nlsvc, nlsX86cc, nsi, NvNetworkService, NVSvc, p2pimsvc, p2psvc, PassThru Service, PcaSvc, PerfHost, pla, PlugPlay, PNRPAutoReg, PNRPsvc, PolicyAgent, ProfSvc, ProtectedStorage, QWAVE, RasAuto, RasMan, RemoteAccess, RemoteRegistry, rpcapd, RpcLocator, RpcSs, SamSs, SBSDWSCService, SCardSvr, Schedule, SCPolicysvc, SDRSVC, seclogon, SENS, SessionEnv, SharedAccess, ShellHWDetection, SkypeUpdate, slsvc, SLUINotify, SNMPTRAP, Spooler, ss_conn_service, SSDPSRV, SstpSvc, Steam Client Service, Stereo Service, stisvc, SwitchBoard, swprv, SysMain, TabletInputService, TapiSrv, TBS, TermService, Themes, THREADORDER TrkWks, TrustedInstaller, UI0Detect, upnphost, UxSms, vds, VSS, W32Time, wcncsvc, WcsPlugInService, WdiServiceHost, WdiSystemHost, WebClient, Wecsvc, wercplsupport, WerSvc, WinDefend, WinHttpAutoProxySvc, Winmgmt, WinRM, Wlansvc, wlidsvc, wmiApSrv, WMPNetworkSvc, WPCSvc, WPDBusEnum, WPFFontCache_v0400, wsvsvc, WSearch, wuauserv, wudfsvc.
Try StreamFab Downloader and download from Netflix, Amazon, Youtube! Or Try DVDFab and copy Blu-rays! or rip iTunes movies!
+ Reply to Thread
Results 61 to 90 of 128
Thread
-
Last edited by koberulz; 15th Dec 2016 at 12:13.
-
Specs for I7's range to over 80C shortens lifespan, over 90C possible failure, 98C certain meltdown and catastrophic damage. At best your expensive CPU will not live long and may already be permanently damaged. If you had a heating problem before re-doing the paste, and then failed to monitor temps, and are either unaware of or uncaring about thermal limits of your hardware to prevent damage, I really don't know what to tell you.
The purpose of the previous set of diagnostic procedures was to establish a temperature baseline when you are NOT doing something stupid, meaning absolutely nothing at all, to get a handle on the extent of the problem. Is this PC being overclocked in any way?
It might strike some folks that when diagnosing a PC with a serious overheating problem, which has only recently been revealed to have had a previous overheating problem, that the extent and nature of that previous problem, along with ALL changes to the system made at that previous time, might be somewhat useful in solving the current problem.
But, by all means, continue giving random, individual tidbits of information without any repetition for consistency, dribble out important tidbits of past issues and hardware configuration, and by all means clean the bejeesus out of the VIDEO CARD heatsink, and, oh hell yeas, continue running overnight encodes to see if you can actually cause the PC to catch on fire.
The most expensive single component in the PC has been rendered seriously suspect and should be considered in need of replacement because you were in too damn big a hurry to encode some friggin TV shows and couldn't be bothered to run some simple tests. Drives, mobo likely rendered unreliable as well.
Life is a series of learning experiences. -
Not all of us can be experts. It seemed like the reapplication of the thermal paste knocked it on the head.
Is this PC being overclocked in any way?
It might strike some folks that when diagnosing a PC with a serious overheating problem, which has only recently been revealed to have had a previous overheating problem, that the extent and nature of that previous problem, along with ALL changes to the system made at that previous time, might be somewhat useful in solving the current problem.
by all means clean the bejeesus out of the VIDEO CARD heatsink
The most expensive single component in the PC has been rendered seriously suspect and should be considered in need of replacement because you were in too damn big a hurry to encode some friggin TV shows
It's also 8 years old, so I can't be too torn up about needing to replace it TBH.
Edited my previous post while you were posting.
EDIT: The rear fan appears to be plugged into the power supply, rather than the motherboard. It just disappears into a mess of cables, so I can't unplug it and try to identify SpeedFan's Fan1.Last edited by koberulz; 15th Dec 2016 at 12:35.
-
As a test, I would try turning off fan speed control in the BIOS. That should leave the fans spinning at full speed (after a reboot). Then check the CPU temp and fan speed again. It should be lower, ~10 C above ambient at idle.
But from all the bits an pieces of evidence it sounds like bad contact between the CPU and heat sink. -
2150, 0, 0, 777.
CPU -53, Internal 41, Temp3 44, Temp4 56, HD1 34, Cores: 45, 46, 45, 46.
EDIT: What are the chances there's permanent CPU damage? Is it worth replacing just in case? Don't really want to get the heatsink redone and then there are still issues, and the heatsink needs to come straight back off again. Similarly, is it worth investing in a better heatsink?Last edited by koberulz; 15th Dec 2016 at 13:45.
-
So indeed fan1 is the CPU fan and it's now spinning at 2150 rpm, up from 840 before. 45C would put your cores at about 15 C above ambient (?) at idle. That's acceptable. How hot do they get under load now? Instead of encoding to produce a load use a program designed to do so, like CPU Burn. That won't be writing to the disk drive so you'll have less risc of screwing up the drive. If you're temps are in the 60 to 70 range at full load, and you can live with the fan noise, you're probably safe (keep an eye on other temps with Hardware Monitor). If you want a quieter computer consider a more advanced cooler/fan combo.
Can you feel a significant amount of air blowing out of case at the top back? Is it very hot? Also, if you're not going to use the top fan I would suggest you block off that hole so that cool air gets sucked in from the lower portion of the case. Other wise most of the air the rear fan is blowing out is just coming in from the top fan hole, not cooling internal components. -
Where do I get CPU Burn? A quick Google shows a few results for a "CPU Burn-In" program. Is that what you were referring to, or something else?
I doubt ambient was 30 C, but I have no way of actually measuring. It was two in the morning.
The top fan is being used, it just seems not to turn on until the computer feels extra cooling is necessary. It's on all the time with that BIOS setting disabled though. -
Try this one: https://patrickmn.com/projects/cpuburn/
Did the top fan turn on when you computer was running very hot? You might get better cooling having the rear fan blowing air out, and the secondary fan blowing cool air into the case at the bottom/front. And seal the top fan hole. That's my preferred configurattion. I put the hard drives right behind the front fan, keeping them cool.Last edited by jagabo; 15th Dec 2016 at 22:31.
-
Yes.
You might get better cooling having the rear fan blowing air out, and the secondary fan blowing cool air into the case at the bottom/front. And seal the top fan hole. That's my preferred configurattion.
I put the hard drives right behind the front fan, keeping them cool. -
Pictures of the Antec Three Hundred show drive bays at the front of the case. And two grills with fan mounting holes right in front of them.
[Attachment 39941 - Click to enlarge]
You can move the fan from the top of the case to the bottom front fan mount, and relocate the drives down there (if they're not already there). But have that fan blow air into the case rather than out. That gives you air flow from the bottom front of the case, over the fans and motherboard, then out the top back of the case. Of, if you want really good cooling, keep the fans you have at the top and rear, and add two more at the front blowing in.
Case fans usually have mounting holes that allow you to install them either way, air in or air out. And there's usually an arrow on one side of the fan that indicates which direction it blows.
I seal off grills I don't want air passing through with duck tape. -
Ah. The front cover on mine is nowhere near that see-through.
You can move the fan from the top of the case to the bottom front fan mount
Case fans usually have mounting holes that allow you to install them either way, air in or air out. And there's usually an arrow on one side of the fan that indicates which direction it blows.
I seal off grills I don't want air passing through with duck tape.
Given the top fan was spinning when I had temps in the mid-high 90s, and that my CPU is likely to DIAF at those temperatures, though...would you expect this to help much? -
The second arrow on the fan tells you which direction the fan spins.
duct tape = duck tape, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duct_tape It doesn't matter what you use, just something to prevent airflow through the vent. The point is you want to control the air flow. Not just have are flowing in or out of the case in random locations. -
Well, the top fan doesn't fit in the front anyway so I might as well leave it in the top. I assume I should cover the hole in the side though.
What should I buy to put in the front? Is it worth getting a new heatsink? Would it fit? How worried should I be about the processor? If I end up ordering parts online, I'd rather only pay one lot of shipping. -
Ah, I see, the top fan is 140mm whereas the others are probably 120mm. Then just add a 120mm (if that's the correct size) fan at the front.
That case is pretty big. It should be able to handle a heat sink like the one I linked to. Look for a heat sink where the heat pipes touch the CPU -- that gives better cooling. Some just run the pipes through a block at the base.
Get the cooling worked out first. Then test your current CPU. It may not need replacing. Make sure your power supply is big enough to handle everything, including all those external USB drives. -
Any recommendations? It's not really something I know much about. If I go with a new heatsink, does that affect ideal fan setup in any way?
I'm not sure what to make of your lack of responses about the processor. -
Did you edit this post, or am I going blind? I swear this paragraph wasn't there the first time I replied.
There are two issues with sorting out the cooling first: firstly, any shipping costs will obviously be higher for getting multiple shipments, if I order parts online. Secondly, if 'sort out the cooling first' includes 'try a new heatsink', and it turns out I do need to replace the CPU, that's just redundant. Might as well replace the CPU while replacing the heatsink.
And TBH, the CPU is almost 8 years old. Replacing it might be worth considering either way. -
Okay, so. Installed two fans at the front, in addition to the top and back fans, and covered the hole in the side of the case. Front fans going in, top fan going out. I don't know which way the back fan goes; it doesn't have any arrows on it anywhere.
Per SpeedFan: Fan1 2599, Fan2 686, Fan3 2047, Fan4 1148.
GPU 39, CPU -35, Internal 43, Temp3 51, Temp4 59, HD1 35, Cores: 60, 66, 60. So...still hot, and I seem to have lost a core somewhere. -
I don't know how you "lost" one core. Are those latest core temps under load?
The back fan almost certainly blows out. You should be able to feel the air flow. -
No, that's just sitting on the desktop. Nothing except SpeedFan running. I tried that Burn program you linked to, with Core Temp, and two of the four temps (so it's working fine with that program, at least) were over 80.
-
So your core temperatures are up from 45 degrees to 60 degrees after adding more fans? That doesn't make sense.
80 degrees under load is better than the 90+ you were seeing before. As was stated earlier, you need to get the heatsink/fan problem sorted first. Either the application of thermal compound was screwed up or the heatsink is clogged with dust. The fan appears to be running at a high speed now so that's probably not a problem.
Regarding the number of cores, how many cores does Task Manager show? What did cpuburn show as the number of cores?
And why does your i7 only have 4 threads? Is it a mobile CPU? Did you disable hyperthreading? Is it a mobile CPU? -
CPUBurn showed 8 of whatever it was counting, IIRC. Not sure how to check in Task Manager.
My understanding was there are four cores with two threads each.
So you're saying I need to remove the heat sink, reinstall it, and then test to see if I need a new CPU, which will require removing the heat sink again? -
Set Task Manager to View -> CPU History -> One Graph Per CPU. Then go to the performance tab. You should see eight graphs.
Yes, you need to remove the heat sink, clean off all the old thermal compound from the CPU and heat sink, apply a high quality thermal compound appropriately (there are lots of youtube videos about this), then reinstall the heat sink.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2MEAnZ3swQ
Do not turn on the computer without a heat sink. The CPU may explode and may even blow a hole through the motherboard. -
Given that the results of the YouTube video indicate it's basically impossible to do badly, I'm not sure what I'm supposed to improve.
EDIT: 8 graphs, still only 3 core temps in SpeedFan. 4 in Core Temp. This boot, all high 40s/low 50s.
The mid-40s result was at 3am, this was at 2am, the 60s test from earlier was 3pm. So the differences can probably be explained by changes in the ambient temperature.
With the fan speed thing in the BIOS disabled, and the two extra fans, though, it's bloody deafening.
EDIT 2: Nope, we're back up to high-50s, mid-60s on the cores again. So, combo of ambient temp and running time, maybe.Last edited by koberulz; 19th Dec 2016 at 12:03.
-
While I was buying fans, I bought a bigger hard drive. Figured since temps are 50s-60s, I should be okay to copy everything off my main data drive onto the new drive (along with everything I want to keep off the former memtest drive). Once I was done copying, I checked with Core Temp and temperatures were high-80s/mid-90s. That's after copying. Just sitting on the desktop, doing nothing.
WTF? -
When you start running a heavy CPU load core temperatures rise very quickly at first. The heat generated by the CPU will raise the air temperature inside the case, and hence the case itself and all the components inside the case. As the temperatures inside the case go up cooling of the CPU becomes less efficient and core temperatures will rise. Which means the case will heat up more, causing core temperatures to rise more, etc. This secondary effect is slower as it takes a while for everything else to heat up. Eventually you reach an equilibrium where the small amount of very hot air being blown out of the case is carrying away enough heat to account for all the heat being generated by the CPU (and other components). This can take 10 minutes or more. The less air coming out of the case, the higher it's temperature must be to account for the heat being generated by the CPU. Adding more fans (when done correctly) leads to more air coming out of the case lowering the equilibrium temperature.
There's even a tertiary effect: as the computer heats up the room heats up, causing the computer to heat up even more, etc. With a single computer this effect is very small and very slow. It's only of consequence to data centers running a large number of servers in a small space.
Since you're so convinced you couldn't have screwed up the application of thermal compound the only alternative left is to invest in a better heat sink. Don't forget though that some thermal compounds break down and become less effective over time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuV-TaR8L3o
Note the guy is overclocking and over-volting his CPU so it's generating a lot more heat than normal. -
I'm not sure what relation your point about things heating up has to this specific situation? Was it intended as a response to a specific thing I've mentioned, or was it just a broader point?
The paste was Arctic Silver, which I'm led to believe is a high-quality product, and applied a year ago.
I might as well upgrade the heat sink while re-applying the thermal compound anyway. Two birds with one stone, plus even if it works a new heatsink might be something I want to do down the track anyway, so now seems as good a time as any.
Is there anything I have to watch out for in terms of fitting in my case, or compatibility with my motherboard, or anything like that? -
The heating discussion was just general information. Make sure you run the test long enough.
Arctic Silver is good and should last several years.
Make sure there is room around the CPU area for the size of the heat sink and that the case is wide enough. Make sure the capacitors and other components around the CPU won't collide with the heat pipes. The Antec Three Hundred looks pretty big so you probably won't have a problem with the Cooler Master reviewed in the Youtube video. The Noctua may be too big. Liquid cooling is best but it can get expensive. -
Neither of those are available at the place I got my fans from. Nor does it list measurements on the website. Delightful!
-
Any of the other Cooler Master Hyper series available? Newegg lists dimensions.
Also be sure your CPU is supported. From it's age, I would guess your i7 is socket 775 -- but check for yourself. The Noctua doesn't support that.
See what's available to you with a 120mm fan, heat pipes that directly contact the CPU, and will fit in your case. Then look for reviews on the internet. -
koberulz is in Australia. CoolerMaster not available at newegg there. Nearest equivalent to CoolerMaster mentioned is from Enermax or Deep Cool etc. at http://www.newegg.com/global/au/CPU-Fans-Heatsinks/SubCategory/ID-574
According to CoolMaster's site there are local dealers in Australia.- My sister Ann's brother
Similar Threads
-
Can MCTD & QTGMC be run on a 16 Core CPU in non-MultiThreaded?
By MrBiggles in forum RestorationReplies: 17Last Post: 23rd Feb 2017, 12:19 -
VirtualDub very slow in WIndows 7 32bit
By vonsworld in forum Newbie / General discussionsReplies: 2Last Post: 4th Sep 2015, 08:37 -
Vegas Pro 9 running very slow, being RAM capped?
By Anonymoose in forum Newbie / General discussionsReplies: 0Last Post: 23rd Sep 2014, 16:30 -
Why VirtualDubMOD is slow and VirtualDub is fast?
By marcorocchini in forum Newbie / General discussionsReplies: 3Last Post: 16th Sep 2014, 08:44 -
video running slow issue(need help)
By pappubeta in forum Video Streaming DownloadingReplies: 1Last Post: 21st Feb 2014, 22:35