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  1. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Search Comp PM
    I may get flamed here for raising yet again the nauseous request for blank media information that no doubt many of you have become sick of answering.

    I risk the question anyway as I have been away so many years and not been recording. It may well be that time has changed information that I have and/or media itself, and its manufacturers may have changed also.

    Years ago, at the height of my DVD copying I only ever achieved mediocre results (ie, movies collapsing toward the end with heavy pixilations and/or just freezing. I think this was a primary cause for giving up in disgust.

    Despite purchasing the best quality domestic media including many brands but primarily Taiyo Yuden, Ritek, Verbatim, all seemed unreliable to varying degrees using several different burners on desktop PCs.

    I do recall at the time I was offered "professional" Taiyo Yuden at about 2 times the domestic price but my economy back then made buying these out of the question.

    So, the questions I ask are:

    1. have things changed/improved?
    2. what media are you using and do you get consistent outcomes with your copies? (ie, they play impeccably without pixilations and freezing).
    3. I guess I should also ask, what software is presently considered the best for ripping and copying?
    4. who are the best bulk providers in Oz these days?

    Hope you can help me here. Thank you. Rod g
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  2. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    West Texas
    Search PM
    Things have changed, but not for the better. Taiyo Yuden no longer makes optical media of any type. You can probably still find some of their discs for sale, since they ceased production back in Dec. CMC Magnetics have bought the rights to TY media codes, dye formulas and production methods and have already started making their version of Taiyo Yuden discs, though I haven't seen any quality testing of this type of media.

    Your best bet is still Verbatim. Make sure to get Verbatim with AZO on the label, and don't buy the Verbatim "Life Series" discs, those are plain CMC Mag mid codes.

    Personally, I wouldn't touch Ritek made media.

    Decryption and ripping...that has changed somewhat. Slysoft, the maker of AnyDVD has gone away, but the programmers behind AnyDVD have reorganized and are now called RedFox AnyDVD. This is still a good program for decryption and ripping to the hard drive without conversion or compression.

    DVDFab is the second choice for decryption. There is a free section, called DVDFab HD Decrypter, which is supposed to continue to function even after the trial for the main part of the program is over. HD Decrypter lags behind on updates however. If you are only ripping DVD's, this shouldn't be too big an issue.

    MakeMKV is free to use for DVD's (and Blu-ray while it remains in beta). You'll need to reinstall it as new versions are released, or get a new beta key every so often. This rips DVD's to MKV files only, and does not apply compression, nor does it convert the video and audio codecs.

    If you want smaller files, in H264 format, VidCoder and Handbrake are free, and very popular. They can make both MP4 and MKV files. Neither have built in decryption capability.

    Don't know about suppliers in Oz.
    Last edited by Kerry56; 14th Jul 2016 at 10:26.
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  3. Member Krispy Kritter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    St Louis, MO USA
    Search Comp PM
    What brand/model player were/are you using to play the discs?

    Pixelation issues are typically a media issue. Usually the result of cheap media, but it could also be the player doesn't support that that brand/type or if the player has issues with all burned discs, I'd suspect a dirty or faulty (ie: failing) player. Not all brands of media work with all players, although you should be safe with a quality media such as Verbatim. If you are having issues with Verbatim, there is a problem with your burn process or more likely with the player.
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  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    United States
    Search Comp PM
    Use Imgburn for your burning software and don't burn to the full capacity of the DVD as your problems "movies collapsing toward the end with heavy pixilations and/or just freezing" are typical of a bad burn (even on good media).
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  5. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    San Francisco, California
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    The video at the end of a full disc lies near the outside edge, which is more likely to accumulate physical damage. I have never trusted burned DVDs to have the longevity or integrity of stamped discs.
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  6. Originally Posted by JVRaines View Post
    I have never trusted burned DVDs to have the longevity or integrity of stamped discs.
    This. It's a fact DVD-R's and any burned optical media will never come close to stamped disc quality with land/pit physical etches.
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