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You either create false sharp look with ringing or flickering (more flickering with interlace involved) or blurry image. Everyone prefers something else. This is SD, you go from 1080 down to 480. Not mentioning horizontal squeeze. Those rows, looking at standings, will be mess if I can guess. But I do not have lagarith in PC now to test your sample.
Do you still have a DV camcorder? I set up a situation, comparing DV footage with downresize. Downresize looked even better. Never looking back since. Making DVD is emergency situation, just use a simple resize, and be done with. -
Yes, I am beginning to think that given the nature of my video, I can only expect so much from a downscaled version. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some tweak that I was missing. After playing around, the downscaling introduces the ringing, mosquito noise, or whatever it is called. I don't really care how the stands or the light poles look. I am only concerned with the people on the field.
Here are two encodes that I did. The first uses simple BilinearResize. The second is the BlackmanResize with 4 taps. Neither has any blurring or sharpening added. The BilinearResize seems to have less ringing around the people.Last edited by SameSelf; 19th Dec 2015 at 14:40.
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There is loads of mosquito noise in those encodes (and that is related only to compression, not downscaling!). Looking at the file size alone reveals why: very low bitrate (around 1500 KBit/s is very low for MPEG2, even with a pretty static scene like this).
Have a look at my encode and see the difference. -
The Q-Scale indicator as seen in Bitrate Viewer is absurdly bad. It's an indicator of quality and they don't get much worse than that. Even though you seem to have set a max bitrate of about 9Mbps, neither even approaches that and the first sample has an average of 1.247Mbps and the second one 1.416Mbps. These numbers are absurdly low. Something is very wrong. Just how much are you trying to fit onto a DVDR? If it's only something like 90 minutes or so, then you figured the average bitrates needed to fill the disc very poorly.
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Good eyes guys! I am not an advanced user of HCenc. This is really my first rodeo. I couldn't figure out why it was doing 1-pass encodes and not letting me set the bitrate. After unchecking the Constant Quantization box on Settings 1, I was able to set the bitrate to 8000. These definitely look better.
Now on another note, I was thinking maybe this is why there aren't many widesceen DVDs. There is just too much information to fit in such a limited SAR. So I tried the following which reduces the SAR that needs to be resized to 4:3.
Code:AVISource("E:\SDTestRaw.avi", audio=false).AssumeFPS(30000,1001).ConvertToYV12(interlaced=false, matrix="rec601") Crop(240,0,-240,0) Sharpen(0.5, 0) #pre-sharpen horizontally to better keep hor. details BlackmanResize(720, 480, taps=4) #for AviSynth versions before 2.58 use Spline36Resize Blur(0, 0.7, false).Sharpen(0, 0.4, false) #medium, works well with almost any source in my experience
P.S. How do you enable the Q-Scale indicator in Bitrate Viewer? Mine only shows bitrate. Thanks so much!Last edited by SameSelf; 19th Dec 2015 at 14:55.
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Do you have the other one? The one to which I linked is the Tecoltd Bitrate Viewer 1.5.
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Well, after queuing up the encodes on my 70" HDTV (that is always the final check because the image is so big I can see every flaw easily) I truly prefer the cropped 4:3 AR. Fewer artifacts. I lose some of the field of view, but I think the compromise is worth it. I can't say in every case that this is the preferred workflow. But in this instance it worked nicely. The video is actually viewable and surprisingly good for an SD image.
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Constant Quantizer is still a valuable choice, something went wrong, I use Quant value (non-linear) set to 3 usually, default is 5 I think (which distributes less bitrate at the end), rest you might try to leave to default. Other than that you might have set something else to be not quite right.
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It was set to 7 (non-linear) which I guess was some sort of default, idk. I always make sure to click "make DVD compliant". Anyway, I only have about 1 hour and 20 minutes of video that needs to fit on the DVD which gives me about 6500 bitrate.
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Pretty sparse if you ask me compared to all the switches and tabs in there.
Code:*INFILE e:\lagarithsd.avs *OUTFILE E:\DVD.m2v *LOGFILE E:\DVD.log *BITRATE 6500 *MAXBITRATE 9000 *FRAMES 0 153015 *PROFILE best *ASPECT 4:3 *GOP 15 2 *DC_PREC 10 *PROGRESSIVE *BFF *FRAMELOG psnr *LASTIFRAME *INTRAVLC 2 *MATRIX mpeg *PRIORITY high
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I took jagabo's test pattern and made a video out of it, making sure to keep the 704x480 on the DVD. Picture below is a VLC cap, straight from the VOB file.
And then this is what it looks when I play the DVD on my cheap Sony DVP-SR200P DVD player, into my Hauppauge 1250 capture card over composite. It captures at 720x480.
It's not stretched as I had expected, but seems to automatically create the black bars on both sides. Behaving similar to just adding black bars to a 720x480 video.
This is what the Sony graphical splash screen looks like through my card, filling up nearly all the picture. https://forum.videohelp.com/images/imgfiles/egBqxI5.png . So the DVD player is certainly maintaining the AR, the way it is supposed to over composite. And if the DVD was played over HDMI it would not need to add black bars. -
1hour 20 min that is 2pass job, sure, I just was defending CQ type of encoding
my INI, not saying that it is best, anyway best setting for CQ is relative as you know, something like CRF number for x264, it is a quality choice which in result makes file bigger or smaller, ... ,just what I use for CQ:
Code:*MAXBITRATE 8500 *PROFILE best *AUTOGOP 15 *CQ_MAXBITRATE 3.000 *DC_PREC 10 *PREVIEW *INTRAVLC 2 *MATRIX mpeg *PRIORITY normal *WAIT 0
Code:%Hcenc% -i "%temp_adr%_v.avs" -o "%temp_adr%.m2v" %field_order% -AUTOGOP 15 -CQ_MAXBITRATE 3 -AQ 2 -MAXBITRATE 8500 -aspectratio %DAR% -logfile "%temp_adr%_hc.encoder.log"
%DAR% is 4:3 or 16:9Last edited by _Al_; 19th Dec 2015 at 16:18.
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Yep, that is exactly what is supposed to happen.
Indeed, and that is exactly why I prefer 704x576/480 over 720x576/480 – it get displayed correctly no matter where. If you resized to 720 it also would be correct over HDMI (with most players it seems anyways), but Composite would not. -
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Are we certain this is due to players being schizophrenic? As said earlier, both 704x480 and 720x480 (D-1) are legal DVD-Video formats for 4:3 AR. But for widescreen, only D-1 is legal. However, there could be some additional minutia around what is legal over composite versus HDMI and even RCA, not that those matter much anymore. I noticed that some of the current TVs in stores don't even bother with anything other than HDMI (likely due to royalty costs).
I wonder how jagabo's test pattern would perform for a widescreen version. I also have some commercial widescreen DVDs (just finished watching an old Christmas standard), but when I tried to use MediaInfo on the VOB it wouldn't tell me what the resolution was. -
I still doubt this as there is no valid proof of this (everyone keeps quoting that Wikipedia page), plus all widescreen DVDs I encoded, authored and burned myself over many years use 704 and not on a single player (old or new, cheap or expensive) did I ever experience any trouble with that.
Go ahead and test it (just flag it as 16:9 and re-author it, nothing else needs to be done), but I guarantee it's going to look identical when captured with your Hauppauge. There is no way it could be different. I would eat my hat if it was different. -
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Here's a scope trace of a 720x480 4:3 DAR video playing on a DVD player (Philips DVP-5990) via composite:
Only the first ~5 percent of the scan line is displayed, from left to right. At the left is part of the horizontal sync pulse. To the right of that you can see the chromaburst signal. You don't see either of those on a normal TV. The number 0 corresponds to the first pixel of the 720 pixel wide DVD image, 8 is pixel number 8. The inset shows the corresponding portion of the picture that's being displayed on the TV. The source was 720 pixels wide with 8 pixel wide grey borders at the left and right edges. The middle 704 pixels are two pixel thick white and black vertical lines.
I didn't bother photographing it, but when displaying a similar 704x480 4:3 video with only the white and black lines (ie, the grey borders were removed before making the video) the lines were in exactly the same position and the 8 pixel wide grey borders were replaced with black borders by the player.
So this player follows the ITU spec at the composite output. When playing a 720x480 video the 4:3 image is contained in a 704x480 sub portion of the frame. With a 704x480 video the full frame corresponds to the 4:3 image. A TV would show exactly the same aspect ratio for both. If you could see the overscan area you would see the grey border of the 720x480 video, a black border (added by the player) with the 704x480 video.
As noted earlier, this differs from the upscaled HDMI output where both the 720x480 and 704x480 frames are upscaled to the full 1920x1080 frame -- leading slightly different aspect ratios.Last edited by jagabo; 19th Dec 2015 at 21:04.
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Thanks for all the efforts. It confirms what I observed myself when capturing the outputs of DVD-players.
Right, so the conclusion is: 704 is displayed correct for both analog SD outputs as well as upscaled HDMI (and software playback on a computer also). So why not show some more love for 704, guys? -
This is a sticky-worthy post. Thanks jagabo and KarMa for the tests. Great job!
Also, this was written up a while ago about why 720 even exists. Great summary.
post1692255
Click the link for the full quote. The relevant part is below:
Last edited by SameSelf; 3rd Jan 2016 at 09:22.
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Maybe it'd be better if it didn't exist, but in my opinion by far the majority of 16:9 PAL DVDs (and probably NTSC) have an exact 16:9 display aspect ratio compromising the entire 720 width. I've come to that conclusion after comparing many DVDs (or my DVD encodes) to their HD square pixel counterparts.
And all software players I know of resize to exactly 16:9 or 4:3, although I assume they'd do the same if the width was 704 rather than 720. -
Now that I have finished my BDMV/DVD project and handed them out as Christmas presents, and had some time to ruminate on things, watch the DVDs, etc., here is what I wrote up in another thread (https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/376165/post2426358) where this question popped up again:
It comes down to two things:
1. What does the authoring program accept? If the authoring package accepts 704 pixels wide as DVD compliant then, sure, give 704 all the love you want. DVD Architect accepts both 704 and 720, but I really see no point in choosing 704, a holdover from the analog broadcast days. If the authoring package considers 704 pixels wide non-DVD compliant and will transcode, you are stuck. You have no choice but to encode as 720 pixels wide. At this point it is up to you whether you want to add black borders or stretch the video. As for which one to do, refer to the next rule.
2. Does the display show the black borders? No way of knowing for sure without a test. Here is what my set up through a modern DVD/BD player, HDMI, and modern HDTV does: it displays the black borders. Ugh! So, going forward, if my authoring package forces me to encode as 720, I will be stretching the video because that is far more aesthetically pleasing than ugly black borders. This is of particular importance when downrezing HD content for DVD.
Optional Rule 3: So your dinosaur player and TV don't display the black bars/overscan area. Now your stressing about the edges of your image getting cropped if you stretch your 704 content. Your coming here for advice. You get confused and don't know what to do. Here is a tip. Embrace 720. One of these days the dinosaur player and TV will go to the dump, and it will be like a gift of 16 pixels that you never knew you had
Otherwise, this is a great thread. Tons of solid information from lots of contributors and should really be made a sticky. -
My opinion is, it's not as if you will be able to tell a difference in detail/resolution between 704 and 720 (without borders) when watching the thing on your TV, and considering, as we found out, 704 is displayed correctly in every scenario, I see no reason not to prefer it over 720.
If your authoring software doesn't accept 704 then I would question my choice in authoring software and then if I still wanted to use it I would just simply trick it by patching the first res header of the m2v file and fool the ignorant authoring software.
Honestly, the only place where I use 720x576 are the menus. Simply because some players don't place the button highlight subpics exactly where they belong when the underlaying menu is encoded in 704x576. -
Even though it appears a 704x576 resolution will always display the same way (ie correctly) it still isn't worth considering?
Are you saying your TV never overscans? Or that it can't overscan? Because that'd probably make it unique. One of a kind. As far as I know all TVs overscan broadcast pictures and generally you can't disable it. I'd have thought there was probably more chance a TV would always overscan than not overscan at all. I kind of remember my other half's old 720p LCD TV always overscans without an option to disable it, but I'd have to check again.
By the way, you forgot to mention some of the rules. I'll number these rules 4, 5 and 6 to avoid confusion, although when they're applied correctly rules 4, 5 & 6 make rules 1, 2 & 3 obsolete.
4. Don't author DVD video or create compliant DVD video discs. It hasn't been 1995 for many years. DVDs are a holdover from a bygone era when we needed a holdover from the analogue broadcast days, and their current usage should be strictly limited to authoring discs so grandma can watch the family videos.
5. You should be able to tell your DVD/Bluray player to connect to the TV at PAL or NTSC resolutions in which case the TV will upscale, and even if it won't over-scan at 1080p I'd be astounded if it doesn't over-scan for PAL/NTSC resolutions.
6. If your previous generation hardware won't allow you to control overscanning, don't use it. I never change the over-scan setting on my TV, because two taps on the "9" key gets MPC-HC to zoom in just enough to simulate over-scan, and tapping the "5" key resets it. If you're stressing about the aspect ratio, a single tap on the "6" key gets MPC-HC to stretch the video width by about 2.5% and for DVDs that's ITU. Before you know it you'll be enjoying ITU DVDs with an ITU aspect ratio and "generic" DVDs at exactly 16:9.
I know it's not a pleasant to think about it, but grandma isn't going to live forever, and all those DVD video discs will go to the dump because nobody will own a media player with an optical drive (and computer optical drives won't be common much longer due to the imminent demise of the desktop), and you won't know what to do with all the extra free time you have.... once you're no longer encoding everything twice to ensure you always have a 100% grandma compatible copy available.
You didn't account for rule 4. Make rule 4 a sticky and you won't need any others.Last edited by hello_hello; 4th Jan 2016 at 11:12.
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