HDMI & Component cables: Black Screen

[agdex]

I have a Comcast cable box connected to a Samsung TV using an HDMI cable and to an AVER EZ recorder using a component cable set. The output of the EZ recorder is connected to the TV using the component input.
Under this conditions the TV screen is Black.
To see what is being recorder, I have to disconnect the HDMI cable from the TV. This is wearing out the HDMI connector in the TV.
How can this be corrected?

[Bjs]

Simple solution ... get a hdmi splitter leaving the hdmi cable connected to the tv ... this way you'll reduce the chances of causing problems with the tv's hdmi port becoming loose or worse.

[jagabo]

Use a short HDMI extension cable and disconnect where the two cables meet, rather than at the TV.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-8inch-28AWG-Speed-Female/dp/B004C4XR00/

[Krispy Kritter]

Unplug the other end of the cable.

[lingyi]

If you're looking to have both HDMI and Component out at the same time, you probably can't. I'm with TWC and my older non-HD DVR did allow both HDMI and component out at the same time, but all the HD-DVRs I've had (I've gone through 3-4 different models that keep conking out) don't allow it.

[agdex]

So far it seems that there isonly a mechanical solution, that is, disconnect the cable.
I need the Comcast cable box component output to connect to the Aver EZ recorder. EZ recorder does not have an HDMI input.
And I need the HDMI of the cable box to see on the TV what is being recorded.
Is there an electronic solution?

[jagabo]

A mechanical HDMI switch: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102786-Manual-Switch-Push-Button/dp/B000NZX2CA/

Or an HDMI splitter (that removes HDCP) and an HDMI to component converter. No need to switch anything, simultaneous output to TV and recorder.

[agdex]

Jagabo:
I found splitters with v1.3 specs. Are those the ones you are referring to? or they need to be v1.2?

[jagabo]

It doesn't matter if it's 1.2 or 1.3. You need a splitter that removes HDCP. That will not be an advertized feature because it is illegal.

[usually_quiet]

Splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Port-Powered-Splitter-1080P/dp/B004F9LVXC

HDMI to Component converter:
http://www.amazon.com/Loftek%C2%AE-HDfuryproTwo-Component-Converter-Surround/dp/B009YP7Y56

I have the same VidewHD HDMI splitter and it works well. The Loftek HDMI to component converter is supposed to be a good one according to one of our members https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/362790-will-the-hdpvr2-work-with-the-newer-comcast-...=1#post2305691

Maybe you would prefer to get the new HDMI version of the EZ Recorder instead of an HDMI to component converter
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100173
Then you would only need the ViewHD splitter.

According to the manual the EzRecorder 130 supports the following HDMI input resolutions and records and displays the same, with a couple of exceptions noted below:

480i/576i
480p/576p
720p (50 & 60Hz)
1080i (50 & 60Hz)
1080p (50 & 60Hz)

The exceptions are when the source resolution is 1080p, 50 Hz or 60Hz. The resolution of the recorded file is frame decimated to 1080p, 30fHz or 25fHz. The display discrepancy is due to the TV not supporting 1080p (30Hz or 25Hz) playback, which results in an automatic drop in display resolution to 1080i (60Hz or 50Hz).

[agdex]

Jagado:
The suggested connections using a splitter and then a converter work, the HDMI signal is very good.
However, the HDMI to component device, seems to me, makes the component signal to flicker a purple flashing every 4 to 5 seconds.
The converter has a switch to set up the resolution to 720x480, 1280x720, 1970x1080, all at 60p.
Do I need a different converter?
Please advise me.
Thanks

[agdex]

I implemented the suggestions by Usually_quiet. It worked very well. The HDMI and the component signals are good.
The problem is solved.
Thanks to all members of the forum that helped me to solve this problem.

[jagabo]

So the first HDMI to component converter you tried didn't work properly (purple flickering)?

[agdex]

Jagabo:
That is correct. I ordered an converter by a supplier called "E-more" but I got a generic one. It run hot all the time.
The newer converter, as suggested by Usually_quiet, worked well and run at a normal temperature.

[jagabo]

Agdex, thanks for the feedback.