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  1. Hi guys!

    I've read about the various suggestions for improving the machine. A quick google search of 8mm projectors turned up something interesting... well to me at least.

    The Reflecta Super 8 is apparently almost direct copy of a G.B.-Bell & Howell projector model 346. The lamp and lens have of course been replaced with the digitizer.
    ( Ebay search: Howell super 8 )

    These can be purchased on at a reasonable cost in the US. Has anyone looked at taking parts from this projector to use in the Reflecta Super 8?
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    Good Eye there 42Nimrod74
    I googled that model and saw the resemblance!
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    Taking the parts from the G.B.-Bell & Howell projector model 346 sounds like a good idea to make the transport mechanism better BUT impossible!
    The motor is digitally controlled using DC motors where as the 346 uses a/c motor.
    However I like the idea of using higher quality parts instead of flimsily shit!
    I got my imported from Germany!
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    I would like to find some photo shop program that can fix multiple or batch pictures at a time before letting cyberview s8 compile the frames into a movie as I do currently make my enhancements in a video editing program like I-Movie! I find that the Reflecta Super 8 Scanner works better on the MAC platform with a SSD than PC as I tried both!
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  5. Originally Posted by DJRockingRay View Post
    Taking the parts from the G.B.-Bell & Howell projector model 346 sounds like a good idea to make the transport mechanism better BUT impossible!
    The motor is digitally controlled using DC motors where as the 346 uses a/c motor.
    However I like the idea of using higher quality parts instead of flimsily shit!
    I got my imported from Germany!
    Could you share which parts you changed and where you ordered them from in Germany?

    I've had this thing sitting on my desk unused because I want to make some improvements before digitizing more valuable films.
    The first film I digitized was scratched by the feeder and the stuck (snapped!).
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  6. Originally Posted by DJRockingRay View Post
    I would like to find some photo shop program that can fix multiple or batch pictures at a time before letting cyberview s8 compile the frames into a movie as I do currently make my enhancements in a video editing program like I-Movie! I find that the Reflecta Super 8 Scanner works better on the MAC platform with a SSD than PC as I tried both!
    I simply copied the jpg files to another location. You can then modify them in batch mode with for example Irfanview (free!).
    I don't remember what I program I used for making the movie but I found the info in this thread.
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    I got my unit from Germany, not the parts.
    I heard that they released the Super 8+, I wrote to them to ask them what are the differences between the two.



    Originally Posted by Nimrod74 View Post
    Originally Posted by DJRockingRay View Post
    I would like to find some photo shop program that can fix multiple or batch pictures at a time before letting cyberview s8 compile the frames into a movie as I do currently make my enhancements in a video editing program like I-Movie! I find that the Reflecta Super 8 Scanner works better on the MAC platform with a SSD than PC as I tried both!
    I simply copied the jpg files to another location. You can then modify them in batch mode with for example Irfanview (free!).
    I don't remember what I program I used for making the movie but I found the info in this thread.
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  8. [QUOTE=DJRockingRay;2482937]I got my unit from Germany, not the parts.
    I heard that they released the Super 8+, I wrote to them to ask them what are the differences between the two.

    Oh no! An updated version just a few months after I purchase the old model. Typical...

    Have you looked at the fixes for the hardware on this thread? Some of them are critical such as removing the sharp spike in the middle of the feed roller!!!
    Or has this maybe been upgraded/changed in the Super 8+ ?
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    Super 8+ eh?
    Well this starts a whole new ball game. I purchased mine a few weeks back and it arrived safely to Australia. I've been comparing images on this forum but can't see they've changed anything externally. There's new Cyberview Software
    "Scansoftware CyberView S8 v. 2.0 for Super8 und Super 8+ Scanner Windows 32 & 64bit - Vista, 7, 8, 10" It installed fine on my 64bit Windows 10 PC.

    The installed firmware is "Firmware Super 8 and Super 8+ Scanner v.2.0.11" but if you're thinking of upgrading Reflecta warn "CyberView Software V 1.1.2.14 can only be used with Super 8 Scanner".

    For me the Reflecta seemed like the obvious choice. There's hundreds of hours of Super 8 in my archives (and then there's the Standard 8!) and living in an apartment something small form on my editing desk has stopped me considering the DIY approach with some of those old Eumig's and Elmo's I have in storage and my DSLRs. And I'm picky about quality with Rank Cintel Super8 transfers, Retro8 ones just falling short of what I know is on those frames. And I'm not scared to do the transport mods that Blackout started off here (bless him!).

    All that may be academic as while I have full machine control over the scanner The Capture button remains greyed back and I can't use it. I've tweaked, tried compatibility modes and gave up and asked reflecta.de for help. Waiting. There is clearly no support for this machine - the only option you have is to send it back! With an Excel spreadsheet designed for their still scanners as the error report.
    The import duty to Australia was AU$400 and I don't like the idea of a replacement machine costing me that again on top of the postage/shipping.

    Any suggestions as to something I might have missed to make this work? I've tried toggling brightness, advancing/backing frames as an earlier suggestion - it locks on a full frame with a red border around it which probably means something but without any help options as support, I can't work it out.
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    Originally Posted by DJRockingRay View Post
    I heard that they released the Super 8+, I wrote to them to ask them what are the differences between the two.
    I bet you didn't get a reply DJRR
    I found this in German on the videofilmen.de site " Equipped with a new (CMOS) image sensor, the reflecta Super 8+ scanner allows even more detailed scans with less image noise in dark image areas. The resolution is either 1920 x 1080 (Full HD) or 1280 x 720 (HD) at 24 bit color depth. Compared to the previous model, the compression of the video files would be reduced, which additionally has a positive effect on the picture quality."
    Hopefully that's two of the issues from this forum thread er, alleviated.

    Fred
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    Well, I gave up trying to make it capture and sent the machine back. Reflecta has replaced the unit and it arrived today. The software was still installed so I just plugged it in and it worked immediately. I did a short test run and I'm now on the second pass of 50 foot reel taken with a Kodak Ektasound a long time ago. I'm sure that there will be be lots of 'Take 2' passes with my footage as I try and get the best from it.
    The Ektasound footage is pretty soft so it was probably not the best to start with. I'll transfer the audio and sync it later and when I have something to share and more comments I'll put it here.
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    Hi Fred, it would be great to see what you think of the Super 8+. Did they improve the picture quality and have they done any improvements on the transport? I recently bought the Somikon HD XL scanner https://www.pearl.de/a-NX4294-1301.shtml from Pearl.de but I must say the picture sucks due to the awful compression.

    Kurt
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    I've been wrestling this device into submission.
    Quickly realising (as the previous model did) that it scratched film hideously, following the forum and Blackout's advice (grateful thanks) I've removed the top and bottom plastic film guides, added 'pads' to the curves top and bottom, bypassed the bottom sprocket and developed a familiarity with the software and the process. The latest software is clearly an improvement, it lets you stop at any time, choose if you want to overwrite or continue (and makes a new folder). Now that it doesn't scratch, I can rewind and change the brightness settings for a shot and continue. If you exit or go back, the folders with the single image frames allow you to then assemble in your NLE software. I'm using Edius 8.

    But, you asked about compression. I'm using my NLE to assemble the still sequences. I tried the export as MP4 and the quality wasn't good, ok probably if you're not comparing it to the output from something professional.

    It's still only going to give you a 1238 x909 pixel image, and although I haven't projected most of these films for 20 years I remember them as being better quality (or possible had forgotten how bad they were). But for me, the reflecta is perfect. Small, (noisy) and so simply built that modifying isn't scary. I have a lot of 50ft reels of 'diary' footage and there have been enough moments in the ones I've transferred to justify the cost to me already. I've just started a 400ft reel as I type - #1 of about 20, I've stopped it five times and resumed. I'll consider it a way to preview what's good and I can then send the moments off (unscratched!) to get 4K scans if I really want to use the memories in my now HD life (or can afford it).

    I'll do a proper post with my results and workflow but here's a vimeo clip that uses some 4fps footage from the Beaulieu that I was prompted to assemble from 'experimental' stuff from 47 years ago. It shows the autistic son of filmmaker friends. https://vimeo.com/230544486

    (There's an old personal showreel also on Vimeo https://vimeo.com/rfreditor/fredshowreel to give you an idea of what I expect nowdays)
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  14. Hi Guys

    after a few month I want to digitaze another reel - but this time I cannot get the "capture" button to switch from disabled to enabled. I had the issue mentioned before - see post#231. I could then solve it by just use the forward/back buttons to move the film and suddenly the butten became active. But now, I'm trying since 40min to move the film and the button to get work - without success.

    The film is fine, no issues with the sprockets.

    I have no Idea whats wrong.

    cheerioh & Thanks
    SiS

    SCanner: Reflecta Super 8 Scanner
    Firmware: 2.011
    CyberView: 8.2.2
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    That's the approach. You're trying to get the software to see a static frame positioned properly. Because I've removed the bottom sprocket from the path I can even grip the edges of the film at the bottom and slide it up and down a bit. Think mechanics not rocket science.

    The reflecta + gives a burp and moves forward, the red frame disappears and the Capture button is live again. I did have to turn off the machine once, and start a new Plan - whatever that means It seems as if the fine adjustment is useful after it locks to a frame, and it will sometimes show the Capture button with a mis-registered frame but then advance by itself.

    Maybe the Reflecta Super8+ handles this differently. I had that problem with my first purchase and sent it back, the replacement machine works fine. There was no explanation of what the problem was just 'we replaced the unit' when I asked. If you're German speaking you might have more luck with a support request.

    Fred
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    Hello I am new to this forum and would like to thank all of the members for all of the helpful contributions made, some of which I have utilised.

    I purchased my Reflecta Super8 just over 12 month ago and experienced most of the failures that have been documented so well. I shelved the project for quite some time and have only most recently commenced trying to solve the technical problems associated with this piece of equipment.

    I have utilised a number of the main technical fixes suggested in this forum and modified some to suit my approach more appropriately. The result being that I now have the Scanner working mechanically faultlessly on quite a number of 400 foot super eight reels.

    I approached the problems from the premise that the film should first of all be held reasonably firmly in place by the pressure plate without scratching the emulsion while moving down through the scanning trough . I calculated that the film in its current configuration had free play of about .5mm when the scanning , creating intermittent software/firmware failures.

    The most practical and simple fix that we eventually came up with was to super glue .5mm small pieces of copper wire on the exciting pressure plate so as to eliminate any film misalignment as the film moves through the frame scanning process. (Please refer to the attached photos)

    To further improve the film alignment it was decided to replace the roller spindles with threaded Stainless Steel screws of the nearest diameter, which were readily available. Self locking nuts and flat washers were used along the threaded screws so as to align the film rollers perfectly with the gates (please refer to the photos).

    A threaded crew was added to mount and align the small film end micro switch one side of each flat washer was insulated with a plastic tape, this configuration allowed the switch to be aligned perfectly. (please refer to the photo)

    I found the two extra metal rollers used in this project on an old Super 8 miniature splicer.

    To upgrade the firmware without using SD slot I received the following Email from Reflecta

    Dear Sveti,

    when you start the Cyberview S8 Software you will find a Update Button on the bottom left, when you press it you will be asked where the Update file location is,
    then you have to find the previously downloaded update.tar file by using the Window in the S8 Software, once you found it double click it and the Update will start.

    Best regards / Mit freundlichen Grüßen

    i.A. Marek Cichosz

    For Mac users that are having problems with there computer falling asleep , I have used “Caffeine” successfully for years, a free download.


    I am using the latest software Super 8+ as well as the latest firmware successfully however I find noise a significant problem and have some reservations on the sharpens of the scanned image. I would have thought that the lens used would have a depth allowance greater than .5mm. Maybe someone can shed some additional light on these issues.

    As a Mac user which AVI software is the best for the least amount of compression?

    I hope the above is of assistance, thank you very much, Sveti.
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  17. Hi All,

    I feel so happy that people have done my mods and i have helped to save their precious films from the permanent damage that this unit performs on the film as it scans. I appreciate the messages !

    Sveti those are some great mods! Putting the copper tracks on the scanning plate looks like a great idea. I think I'm going to try it just to reduce movement further. But you are only getting this movement problem really because you are using the bottom sprocket. IF you bypass it, the film is able to be always pulled tight across the scanning area by the takeup reel and theres rarely major movement.

    there is new firmware for the scanner: update_V2.012 and the datestamp is Jan 2nd 18
    There is also a Cyberview S8 scanner software update: CyberView_S8_2.2 which is dated 27th June 17.

    Lots of ppl are getting the problem where the "Capture" button is greyed out. The problem is that the unit can not find the middle of a frame, and it doesn't like it. As I only am using the top sprocket in my mods, generally the solution is just to relax the pressure on the film and maybe push it back up a little in the scanning area...the film alignment moves around a little and generally the "Capture" button becomes live again. If youre using the bottom sprocket, then its your problem and fault if this happens.

    It would be worth trying the newest firmware and Cyberview version as well, it might help.

    Cheers!
    Blackout
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    Yeah, skip the bottom sprocket but you'll need to break down long reels into shorter spool lengths, (I've found 200' max about right) as it's basically using the take up tension to keep the bottom loop and film stable in the gate. When you take away the guides you take away scratching and then it all becomes a bit 'organic'. I use my hands to straighten film in the gate while it's running, pull splices through that jam, it's all a bit dinky really, you're pushing film past a scanner aperture and letting the software work out the frames. I stop, wind back, change exposure, resume using the 'keep' frames option, even exit the program and resume the 'plan' when it hangs/freezes, and then assemble it all in my editing program as individual frames. Some of my capture folders have ten sub folders of bits and revised exposures and it all assembles nicely.

    One of my concerns for the moment is it 'loses' frames. I've been photographing with a DSLR and macro lens some strips of a few frames to use on my website. In a couple of sequences I found that there were frames that the reflecta had missed, they were not obvious in the moving sequence but make me anxious I'm missing stuff.
    The other thing that makes me reluctant to keep working through my archives is the resolution is really so shitty. I HAVE to build something to capture at a higher res. In the meantime the reflecta+ is a good way to provide a 'workprint' to know what I can go back to and transfer in high quality when (if ever) I build something better. There's nothing off the shelf that will do it and I've too much to go for 2K or 4k commercial transfers. And having it sit beside me on the desk while I work suits my workflow.

    Here's an example of some reflecta+ footage from 1974. Push Youtube playback up to HD. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk6kNeptCWk , that's a 35mm negative scan in the background.

    Oh, I'm using Lightroom to edit out dirt and scratches, a laborious task on a ten minute film but often it's after I've edited and I just want to remove that grotty bit on a face in a good sequence.
    Last edited by Freditor; 18th Feb 2018 at 17:39.
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  19. Freditor...there has to be a way to update/upgrade the scanning sensor. No-one has been able to easily adjust the scanning "focus" either and make it sharper. Maybe this is something you will have the courage to explore?

    of course we will not be able to scan past HD because that's a software limitation but the if the focus of the scanner was adjustable then I'm fairly confident we would all get a massive boost in sharpness and quality....
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    Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    No-one has been able to easily adjust the scanning "focus" either and make it sharper.
    I described a focus adjustment in my posts #156 & #161 of 18 May 2015 and #166 of 23 May 2015. I agree it wasn't easy.
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  21. yeh I read those posts Neutron but I never quite understood them completely and was too frightened to attempt it....
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    Hi everyone.

    I finally took the plunge and won a Reflecta Super 8 scanner on eBay. Seller claimed to have used it successfully.
    I am using the latest version of the Cyberview software and have updated to the latest firmware available online.

    My machine will not successfully calibrate upon starting my first project. I keep getting a "Plase take off the roll film to calibration." error dialog.
    So, the machine thinks there is film in the gate. There is not.

    I can not calibrate and, therefore, I can not scan.

    Windows 7, PC

    What gives?

    Thank you.
    Tim
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    Hi,

    I'm new to this forum and recently I got a Reflecta Scanner 66020. I installed the current versions of firmware and software:

    Scan software CyberView S8 v. 2.2 for Super8 und Super 8+ Scanner
    Firmware Super 8 / Super 8+ update_V2.012.tar

    but still there are missing frames in the capturing process. I can see those missing frames in the preview, but they are not saved. Instead, a previous frame is repeatedly saved. For example, let's suppose the original frames are:

    F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, F9, F10, ....

    And the recorded images (jpg) are:

    F1, F2, F3, F3, F3, F3, F3, F8, F9, F10, ...

    where the frame F3 is saved several times instead of the correct frames F4, ..., F7 (which are clearly seen in the preview).

    It seems to be a software error but I'm not sure. I tested it with two different laptops, both with Windows (7 and 10), and the last one full of specs. I e-mailed Reflecta reporting this problem 2 days ago with no answer up to now.

    Did someone experience this with the new updates? With the preinstalled versions the problem was the same.

    Thanks.
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    Originally Posted by DrTimmay View Post
    My machine will not successfully calibrate upon starting my first project. I keep getting a "Plase take off the roll film to calibration." error dialog.
    So, the machine thinks there is film in the gate. There is not.
    I read that there is a switch in the mechanism that detects the film. Perhaps, this switch is damaged.
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  25. I have the same frame copy problem as FSP.

    In my machine, it happens, when sprocket holes are damaged.

    Did anyone solve this problem? I asked Reflecta customer support, but with no answer.
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    After 4 weeks, Reflecta answered, but it seems that they did not understand the problem (they insist on stucking, which is not the case as I told them):

    "we don’t have an explanation for the problem you are reporting. We can only imagine that the material gets stuck for a couple of frames because of reasons that might be related to the film material and its condition. Have you tried to scan different film stock?

    Of course you are welcome to send us your scanner for checking it. Please find our address in my signature. Please add a copy of your invoice and a description of the issue to the shipment."

    but fortunately are willing to check the scanner.
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  27. Thanks for you quick reply.

    I will make an experiment. I will scan the damaged section of the film, using an adjusted framing (-1 or -2) and see if the problem moves to some other frames.
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    Originally Posted by Blackout View Post
    Image
    [Attachment 29294 - Click to enlarge]
    Image
    [Attachment 29295 - Click to enlarge]


    hi all,

    Here you can see 2 pics of the mods i have made to the top feeder of the Reflecta scanner. These mods are important because most of the scratching/damage occurs in the top part.

    first you need to undo the two black screws and remove the plastic cover from the top feeder section, this is the only way you can put some fabric on the sharp turn that the film makes as it rubs against the abrasive plastic directly. You also need to take the small plastic wheels and file them smooth as they have the plastic injection points on the wheels on the surface that touches the film and the plastic wicks in the plastic wheel guides leave dents in the film. (yes, extraordinarily poor manufacture but true).

    then to avoid the plastic film sensor scratching the film straight down the centre as it feeds, i have used the felt pad spring from a cassette tape housing and it sits above the plastic sensor lug. so the film runs across the felt pad, not the plastic sensor lug. you can see this in the pics on the right.

    i have also made up some spacers and used a small washer to help keep the film guiding nicely. Then its just a matter of being a little more gentle when feeding a film through the scanner.

    (DO NOT try and put the yellow felt on the surface and think you are going to get the plastic housing back on. its just not going to happen. it is extremely tight in there. and you will never successfully feed a film through again. plus you want to replace the yellow felt (a record cleaning cloth cut up!!) every 5 scans or so...so you need access easily...so just leave it off....better )
    Hi all, new to the Forum and to this thread. Just bought a Reflecta + on eBay and find your comments very helpful. Thank you all and especially to Blackout for the time and effort expended to make these mods available to the public. The mods look necessary to me but challenging. Shop questions for Blackout: 1) How did you make the white plastic spacers? From what source? 2) I understand the reason for the cassette felt pad mod but I don't understand how you did it. Maybe if I knew what a cassette felt pad spring looks like? Do you happen to have a picture of one you can post? Or is it self-evident once I take apart a cassette? Thank you.
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