Hello
I have an old internal Hard Drive connected to a USB To SATA 2.5" External HDD SSD Hard Disk Drive Adapter (see picture) i have tried my laptop and PC and still i cannot get either of them to recognise the hard drive. Nothing showing in computer.
Any advise would be most welcome.
Thanks
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hech54
Power? -
Well explain how the HDD is connected to the adapter. Is that other internal drive's power coming from the PC's PSU ?
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I'm still going with "Power". This is my adapter:
http://www.amazon.de/Wintech-SAK-50-Konverter-Festplatten-schwarz/dp/B001BSPA9G -
Does the HDD spin up? You should be able to hear it. But it may be irrecoverably dead.
But you might be able to put it into a laptop or find a 3.5>2.5 adapter and try it in a regular PC. I don't trust SATA>USB adapters that much.
In a laptop, you could boot with a Linux live distro disc. I've used Ubuntu live and Knopix live to access the messed up HDD on a laptop, then transfer the data off to a second drive.
This usually only works if the drive is recognized, but unreadable by the OS. But still worth a try. -
DB83
Well explain how the HDD is connected to the adapter.
The two usb ends go into LT or PC and the Adapter connecTS to the HD
hech54I'm still going with "Power". This is my adapter:
[Attachment 25854 - Click to enlarge]
redwudzDoes the HDD spin up? You should be able to hear it. But it may be irrecoverably dead
redwudzBut you might be able to put it into a laptop or find a 3.5>2.5 adapter and try it in a regular PC.
redwudzI've used Ubuntu live and Knopix live to access the messed up HDD on a laptop, then transfer the data off to a second drive.
Thanks -
The old hdd, is it 3.5"? The adapter shewn only sends 5 v to the drive. A 3.5" drive needs 5 v & 12 v, the usb adapter I use has a 5/12 v power supply.
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Hard drives, even 2.5" SATA ones, consume more current than what a single USB2 connector can deliver so two are available (the power leads in both are in parallel), so when you plug in both USB connectors, hopefully, enough current can be sourced to make hard drive work. But nothing is guaranteed; hard drive may not still be recognized if
- it requires even more current than that available from two USB connectors (around 1A total)
- the particular USB controller turns off power to the port if it doesn't sense data connection, making plugging two of them irrelevant if one doesn't have data connection (this particular bridge connector likely does not & can not)
- the particular USB controller doesn't recognize the SATA-to-USB bridge circuit in the connector
- the drive may need to be initialized/activated/formatted under windoze disk management
For the nth time, with the possible exception of certain Intel processors, I don't have/ever owned anything whose name starts with "i". -
Well that is incorrect!
I have a Toshiba 750gb and friends who have even larger 2.5" external HDD's that run perfectly fine with only 1 usb connection.
Mine is used on a daily basis between my PC and both my Bluray players to watch movies and TV shows from.
And gues what is inside the external enclosures......
2.5" Sata HDD's -
You are lucky it does in your case. But this is just the problem with getting power solely off USB connectors: it is hit and miss. I also have 2.5" HDDs, used for testing. It is seen by some devices, ignored by some others. So I just put a USB power injector in between to ensure an external +5V is powering it always. Let's take a typical 2.5" SATA HDD: WD5000BPKX, which is one of those I use. Right there on its label: +5V, 0.55A. USB2 puts out a maximum of 0.5A, making using this particular HDD with a SATA-to-USB bridge connector solely drawing power from just one USB2 connection flakey one way or the other. That's why on some adapters there are two USB connectors, but that is still no guarantee.
For the nth time, with the possible exception of certain Intel processors, I don't have/ever owned anything whose name starts with "i". -
Both these symptoms point to a fried drive. A HD should be barely audible (especially a 2.5") when running. Ticking or any loud noise coming for the drive is a sign that it's dying (ticking being a stuck or sticking head or having seek problems on bad sectors, loud whining a sign of failing bearings).
The fact that your drive causes your PC to shut down may be because the drive is shorted somewhere. This sounds funny, but smell the bottom (the side with circuit board). If there's a burnt smell, something shorted out. Also check if there are any black spots, again a sign that something shorted and burnt out.
If there's something that you need to recover from the drive, you could try replacing the circuit board if it's accessible. You'll need to get the EXACT SAME (Model number) board. But since your drive was ticking, it's likely a mechanical failure rather than or in addition to a failed board.