Take a look at the bottom of the videos. All of them except the Sony+TRV480 have distortion in the bottom 9 lines that obscures any semblance of the picture info contained there. The Sony+TRV480 only has a couple bad lines and then it's back to normal video (but with total garbage for color data).
Only tweak brightness/contrast for capture and you won't need to change your monitor; histograms will provide you with more accurate information than your eyes even if your monitor was $10,000 - because your room, etc. affects the way your visual system perceives the video.Just wondering if I should grab one of my crts to use as a monitor on the capture boxes rather than using an lcd like I am now for proc amp tweaks on the next capture go-around.
For post-capture color correction you may want to consider it. Even then, I don't see a reason to if you'll be viewing them only on LCD HDTVs and projectors. But I don't know what kinda monitor you have. Mine is a nice IPS panel so if yours is a cheap TN... maybe?
Yeah.So far, looks like no definitive vcr winner, right? By the same token, no definitive loser either.
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By and large, CRT's are no more "accurate" than LCD's as far as color balance goes. Both require calibration. There's no such thing as display accuracy out-of-the-box. This has to do with manufacturing tolerances, among other things. Because a monitor or graphics adapter is "digital" doesn't mean that it accurately displays your original graphic as-is. If OEMs stopped each monitor in the production line to precisely adjust display accuracy, each monitor would skyrocket in price.
Your statement about digging up the old CRT and the statement about one of your videos looking "faded" prompted me to look up a few references. The video you referred to isn't faded: it has black levels set too high. Also consider that analog-to-DV loses some color info, and you have yet another subtle influence at work.
You'd be surprised to learn that consumer monitors (and many pro monitors, for that matter) have factory settings with little to do with accuracy. Fact is, most consumers don't want accuracy. What they want is bright and shiny pictures. The trend today has it that if red is saturated beyond the roasting point and brightness is set high enough to illuminate a back yard BBQ, the monitor looks "Great!". Trouble is, graphics set up to look "Great" on a "great" monitor will look screwy on a more accurate display. Years ago with my first PC I used a CRT monitor that was actually rather dim. I used Photoshop and brightened the pics to make them look "normal". Later I acquired a more accurate display; those pictures are so bright on it they look washed-out, almost colorless.
The term "color accuracy" has been defined, technically. Details of that definition aside (a mountain of math that we can safely ignore, for we'll never use it), a picture is said to be "accurately" displayed when certain parameters are measured as being within 2% of what they're supposed to be -- that is, the similarity between what is being sent to the screen and what is actually displayed. At 3% or 4% error, the keen eye of a photog or videographer would sense that something isn't quite right, but it's close enough to be acceptable. By 5% to 6% error, folks who are color sensitive (there are plenty of them around) will sense that something is amiss. By 8% to 10%, all but the typical gamer would say that something definitely looks "off". Sadly, the typical digital monitor has display errors between 8% and 20%, depending on which part of the spectrum is being displayed. Brights are usually on the edge of exploding and shadow detail is mucky garbage. Still, the average joe thinks the monitor looks "great", even if Aunt Jennie looks like Mr. Hyde in drag wearing a blue fright wig.
Video and movies are normally created with a color temperature of 6500 Kelvin in mind. That average 6500K comes from the average color temperature at noon in Washington D.C. on a sunny day, with reference to the way humans perceive "white". Out of the box, most consumer monitors are set up for anywhere from 9000K to 12000K. The higher "K" you have, the brighter it looks in your sunlit living room -- and the more bluish it is, such that blacks, grays, and whites never look really black, gray or white. Some makers also set a higher green brightness because we perceive green as "brighter" than colors of equal hue and brightness; ergo, a buyer chooses that monitor because its screen is "brighter". Contrast ratio: someone buys a monitor because it has a 30,000,000:1 contrast ratio, i.e,, the luminance difference between its darkest display point and its brightest. Fat chance. try staring directly at the sun and you'll begin to see what such a contrast ratio would entail. In practice, a contrast ratio of 850:1 is closer to what a decent monitor getd, and it's perfectly adequate for graphics work. Those millions-to-one figures are pure smoke and mirrors.
IPS monitors have a reputation for better accuracy out of the box. This doesn't mean they're all that great, it just means they're less whacky that the typical TN panel. While some monitors are so designed that they defy accurate adjustment, most consumer displays are capable of excellent performance when adjusted properly. That adjustment is very difficult to get by fiddling with image controls and eyeballing the results. The human eye might know that something is off, but it doesn't know why. The image controls on most monitors are limited (does your monitor have clock and phase adjustments? Mine do). Getting the "right color" is only part of the process; there are also gamma, luminance, and saturation issues. Your eyes say "there's too much red". Does that mean you need more cyan (blue + green), or do you need less red? There's a difference.
I reviewed a website article I hadn't seen in a while. In doing so, I found that I was in error about my concept of gamma, so I stand corrected from re-reading it. The page isn't too long and it's written in layman's language. It has some pics, charts, graphs, and no math (thank goodness), and references to some calibration devices and software (some of it free). One of the freebies is a series of test panels at the lagom website (http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/). A handy little tool that is most illuminating (pardon the pun). The website that explains what "calibration" entails is here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/calibrating.htm .
My monitors and TVs are calibrated using a colorimeter (it measures colors and stuff on your monitor's screen) and two pieces of software used to interpret the results and help make adjustments. The XRite software is used to calibrate PC's, the HCFR software is used to measure and display the results graphically. A couple years ago I posted the HCFR pictures of what a monitor calibration can do. I accomplished the calibration by starting with free test panels from the lagom website. That got me "in the neigjborhood" of more decent performance. But the later colorimeter + PC software nailed things precisely. The post, description and pictures are in the forum here: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/335402-VHS-capture-critique?p=2083260&viewfull=1#post2083260.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:02.
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Take a look at the bottom of the videos.
In the VHS Restoration thread, the OP was having trouble setting his proc amp controls, so the monitor/calibration was mentioned. Didn't think about situation that he may have been doing it by eye instead of histogram. That's what prompted the monitor question.
So the vcr situation is a coin-toss. And the 550 is better than the AIW. How about the 550 vs the trv480? With the 550 (or another capture card), I can have some control with proc amp and I can't with the DV. Using the 550, I can get a lossless avi and DV is lossy. Guess the question then is how difficult does it make it for post processing with DV? With the types of defects noted in post 25, for example, how many can be fixed without extreme effort (if even fixable)? How do you link to a post like 25 here without the full url? Oh, and can you identify the sources of the two stacked pictures? Found the defects on my captures, but not sure which ones you were talking about. Significance of checked ones?
Better Capture card... In this case I think what you're looking for is one that could possibly exceed the dynamic range provided by the 550.your JVC S-VHS is blowing out your capture cards' levels while the plain-jane Sony is providing more headroom -
Read your post, sanlyn, after sending mine. Enjoyed it immensely. All I was worried about was proc amp brighness/contrast settings using a histogram. The OP in the VHS Restoration thread was having problems - maybe he was trying to do it by eye. Hubby's projector is calibrated using a fancy calibration disk. My 65" hdtv is basic, "normal" preset with sharpness turned way down 'cause I use it mostly as a monitor for spreadsheets and trimming tv captures. You would choke if you saw the crt on one of my capture boxes - something has died giving it a purplish cast and it has a burn-in ghost. Only use it once a day to schedule recordings, so as long as it's readable, not inspired to lift the sucker and replace it.
Your definitions of brightness, contrast and saturation in the VHS Restoration thread gave me an "ah ha" moment. No wonder I've always had trouble figuring out how to adjust monitors.Last edited by dianedebuda; 24th Jan 2014 at 06:40. Reason: added details
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Grab the link to the post from the post # in the top-right, highlight the text you want to turn into a link, and click the icon above the post editor that looks like a globe with a chainlink on top of it.
I don't know how to fix any of the issues that I circled; the idea is to avoid them of course. The sources are in the filenames of the blow-up images (mouseover them). The checks are noting that the TRV480 seems to somehow be correcting the halos there (or those halos are being introduced by sharpening performed by the 550).
Certain people are dead-set against USB devices. I would not recommend the ATI 600 in this case, as its contrast adjustment isn't useful. -
Edited 34 to try out post linking.
I don't know how to fix any of the issues
Certain people are dead-set against USB devices.
Better Capture card... In this case I think what you're looking for is one that could possibly exceed the dynamic range provided by the 550... your JVC S-VHS is blowing out your capture cards' levels while the plain-jane Sony is providing more headroom -
There are things you can do to mitigate color bleed, but ultimately VHS simply has much lower chroma bandwidth than luma.
I think you explained what I meant. No way is there a gain control. Turning on/off some of the processing features like TBC may have an effect on it but I don't think so. -
You can see the low chroma resolution of VHS here:
https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/319420-Who-uses-a-DVD-recorder-as-a-line-TBC-and-wh...=1#post1980652
https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/319420-Who-uses-a-DVD-recorder-as-a-line-TBC-and-wh...=1#post1981589 -
Round 2a: Basically same hardware as post 12 + new VC500.
Status:
vcr selected: JVC HR-S7500U
capture devices eliminated: AIW, TRV480 pass-through for vhs tapes
(TRV480) DV downgraded to 2nd tier because lossy.
Purpose:
Select capture device: 550, VC500 Captures look pretty close to us. See same halos & color bloom. VC500 advantage: proc amp setting have greater value range, could use on Win7 (tested on XP); VC500 disadvantage: no YUY2 - does this matter for post-capture processing?.
Select vcr settings: TBC +on/-off, R3 +on/-off, svhs always on (think that only applies to new recordings). Is it better to do sharpening with vcr's R3 or post-capture processing?
Select hi8 TRV480 settings: TBC +on/-off, DNR +on/-off.
all 550 clips used default proc amp settings.
VC500 proc amp settings = default or Bright=7100 + Contrast=3860
Hi8 clips seem to have a lot of color bloom around blue pants & red shirts. Cure available or is that just the way it is?
Relevant clips from Round 2: (post 12)
hi8 TapPractice -tbc, 550 vdub clip1.avi +dnr
vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc+r3+svhs, 550 vdub clip1.avi
Hopefully not too much here. I realize some errors are not fixable; what I'm unsure about are those where a tape player's "cure" fixes one thing but creates other problems. Not knowing what can be done post-capture makes it tough.
If we go with the VC500, looks like we'll match oldretiredguy for the vhs tapes
access the controls from Video -> Levels (hotkey: L)
Looking around, seeing other newbies almost as paranoid about tape damage as I am
Edit: skip 5th file: vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc+r3+svhs, aiw vdub clip1.avi; uploaded in errorLast edited by dianedebuda; 26th Jan 2014 at 22:52.
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The VC500 uses UYVY instead of YUY2 (aka YUYV). The only difference is the order that the data is stored internally, but codec developers have to specifically author their software to support the different ordering. Huffyuv internally reorders UYVY to YUY2 so that downstream software doesn't have to worry about supporting it.
(v1.2.2) This version adds UYVY compression support. Since UYVY is just YUY2 with a different sample ordering, I simply reorder the bytes during compression, effectively converting the image to YUY2 on the fly. Decompression to UYVY is not supported, but decompression to YUY2 will work. Huffyuv will also now function as a UYVY codec if you don't have one installed on your system already.
I'll look at the samples tomorrow I guess. -
I kind of thought that the UYVY -> YUY2 was happening from what I saw on oldretiredguy's thread, but it was just suspected at one point. A little later, you'all were changing him from huffyuv to an avisynth for reasons I didn't understand, so I kind of got lost there. Think there's supposed to be info in avisynth that lists this, but haven't got avisynth loaded yet.
I should have been saying color bleed instead of color bloom. Bloom kind of makes it sound like a good thing.
On the vdub proc amp controls: is there a way to move from field to field, e.g. brightness to contrast, with the keyboard? I would have guessed Tab, but it doesn't work. Everytime I touch the slider to select the control field, it jumps a bit. Right/left arrows fine for adjustments once there. Also, is there a hidden reset?
I'll look at the samples tomorrow I guess.
Actually fairly pleased with the tapes so far. The vhs guitar was shot hand held in really bad lighting and tight quarters tethered to a vcr & a/c outlet. I think hubby did a reasonably good job there. And I shot the hi8 tap practice without much regard to lights, etc. Surprised it doesn't jerk all over the place since it also was hand held. It wasn't meant to be kept, but I'm glad I have it now. Got a few frames of my daughter practicing at home that magically appeared when I changed the TRV480 from auto to hi8 format. Wish I had that. Don't think the analog -> digital went too badly. How much these can or should be improved, dunno - suspect not much. Once I finish with the capture setup, I can turn my attention more to what's available as post processing and the logical order of fixes.Last edited by dianedebuda; 27th Jan 2014 at 08:30.
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Why is there so much aliasing in all these captures?
Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:02.
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Bleed describes colors extending beyond the objects' boundaries, while by bloom I thought you meant oversaturated.
On the vdub proc amp controls: is there a way to move from field to field, e.g. brightness to contrast, with the keyboard? I would have guessed Tab, but it doesn't work. Everytime I touch the slider to select the control field, it jumps a bit. Right/left arrows fine for adjustments once there. Also, is there a hidden reset?
Hopefully the default 550 vs the default VC500 is enough since I didn't really see a lot of difference. -
Hmmm. Well, okay, I'll ask again: where's all the aliasing and motion noise coming from? I gave up on that problem. Seems to be an interlace problem in your setup somewhere.
Also gave up on the Tap practice scene. The ringing and ghosts were a bit much for one day after fighting it in the guitar clips. Got weary of the interlace problem, too, so the attached samples are progressive. Some of the clips have crushed darks. The s-video cable seems to be softening everything. I have crummy results from most s-video wire, but I found a couple that outdo most of them. You might try this one: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/shopbycable/1808A.htm. I've discarded most my other s-videos.
The samples are just quickies to demonstrate possibilities. You could tweak forever. Contrast range of the originals were out of spec for RGB display. The third guitar clip was too soft to work with. As you probably know, that clip changes brightness levels halfway thru. I used Avisynth, VirtualDub, and TMPGenc Video Mastering Works v5. I meant to ask: what does "svhs" means in these and other titles: ?
vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc+r3+svhs, aiw vdub clip1.avi
vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc+r3+svhs, vc500 vdub clip1.avi
vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc-r3+svhs, vc500 vdub clip1.aviLast edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:03.
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Bleed describes colors extending beyond the objects' boundaries, while by bloom I thought you meant oversaturated.
Histogram to display during capture preview
where's all the aliasing and motion noise coming from? I gave up on that problem. Seems to be an interlace problem in your setup somewhere.
The ringing and ghosts
Some of the clips have crushed darks.
Contrast range of the originals were out of spec for RGB display. The third guitar clip was too soft to work with.
what does "svhs" mean
Not trying to give you a headache, sanlyn. Was targeting variations in vcr and camcorder settings plus rudimentary proc amp settings. I do appreciate everyone's feedback. Earlier I was pleased with captures so far. Bubble burst. Aunt Jennie IS Mr. Hyde in drag wearing a blue fright wig. -
The last round of captures is easily better than earlier ones. Keeping levels within the boundaries of the capture histogram aren't that difficult. Except for black borders (usually a little "spike" at the far left side), keep the histogram data out of the "red" side borders.
SVHS: If there's an "svhs" mode in the capture software, then I'm not certain why it's there. The point is: "SVHS" is a tape format. SVHS stores luma and color in a similar way that VHS does, but with a tad more resolution. "S-video" is a type of signal transmission (transmits luma and chroma along separate wires, usually gives a cleaner pic than composite does). s-video can be used to send the signal from VHS, SVHS, DVD, cable box, etc. Can't use it for anything HD, though -- s-video circuits are limited to SD.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:03.
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sanlyn, I'm glad you think these later captures are better than earlier ones. Like I said, I used the histogram to set proc amp settings, but it was only for the VC500 captures with the B7100 C3860 in the names. For those clips, the signal was within bounds (blue). The last one you said was too soft, but that was one that I'd tweaked & the signal looked fine (to me) as it was recording. Dunno.
I think you're misinterpreting my naming scheme.
vhs guitar jvcs svideo +tbc-r3+svhs, vc500 vdub clip1.avi
tape type = vhs
tapename = guitar
tapeplayer= jvcs = JVC HR-S7500U
tapeplayer cable port = svideo
tapeplayer (internal) settings= tbc on,R3 off,svhs mode on svhs mode is only for new recordings, but I wasn't sure when I orignally started naming the clips. Is useless piece of info here. Sorry if it caused confusion.
capture device=VC500
capture software = vdub
last ones added
proc amp settings = B7100 C3860 = Brightness=7100 & Contrast=3860
Looks like I've got some studying to do. Sigh. Pass the valium. -
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I think you're going to have to decide for yourself whether you prefer the look of R3 on or off. The edges are more sharply defined, but it's definitely either adding halos or exaggerating halos that are baked in. What you should be comparing are vertical columns and diagonal lines; horizontal rows are always going to have the same resolution.
The ones without those in the filenames are the problematic ones. I could post my analysis of them, but it'll be easier for both of us if you pick an R3 setting and then recapture with higher brightness and lower contrast than default (for both 550 and VC500), with Sharpness=0 on the Proc Amp settings.
For our purposes of picking the capture card, it's better to overcompensate than trying to ride the levels as close as possible (i.e. if you think C3860 is a good value, doing C3700 is going to make things easier).
Should I look at the Hi8 stuff now, or wait until after new VHS clips? -
All frames shown here are fro0m interlaced video. All frames have motion. Apparently the O.P.'s camera doeswn't handle motion well, or maybe it's the cap devices. Probably poor interlace work in the cameras. I don't think it would be both cards, though. Left-click an image for full size display; these are full screen captures of playback with MPC-BE and VLC Player (latter has deint turned on).
VLC Player (deinterlace turned on):
[Attachment 23172 - Click to enlarge]
MPC-BE:
[Attachment 23173 - Click to enlarge]
VLC Player - Live Telecast, SD-DVD cap - has motion on both sides of frame.
[Attachment 23174 - Click to enlarge]
MPC-BE - interlaced newsfilm - figures and camera in motion- HD PVR
[Attachment 23175 - Click to enlarge]
Looks sharper to me. Doesn't matter. There's so much noise every time something moves, it'll all look alike after cleanup. And if the owner sees no need for cleanup, then again it doesn't matter.
Thank goodness none of my stuff plays like that every time something moves.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:04.
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The OP's videos are interlaced video in a container/codec that's not flagging it as interlaced. Just turn on the player's deinterlacer if you don't want to see comb artifacts. If the OP's goal is to make DVDs she can simply encode them interlaced and let the DVD player or TV handle the deinterlacing. If she wants to upload to Youtube she can deinterlace before encoding.
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If you set VLC Player's interlace dialog windows to "on", I believe that means it's "on". I don't know that MPC-BE has an on/off button for it, but I'm not going to fish out 30 interlaced and telecined videos to make the point that now and then we encounter crap from consumer cameras that makes me glad I never gave in to the temptation to buy one. The two "OK" captures (one from a DVD in my DVD drive, the other unaltered from my HD PVR video) were made with the same player settings used for the O.P.'s clips, and have no display problems. One of the noisy caps was from the original YUY2 capture with ffdshow's huff enabled (I believe huffyuv was in use there? Why don't other huffyuv videos have ragged edges on my players or PC's?). I have plenty of YUY2 Lagarith and huffyuv videos around that don't play that way. Anyway, I just checked the clips on one of my other PC's that has a different card, and a laptop that has yet another card. I made the progressive mkv's because I got tired of looking at the noise.
The image above in post #52 has ragged edges, just not as many in that particular frame. But VLC player won't play YUV huffyuv or Lagarith YUV videos, so I don't know how that image was made with VLC Player. The VLC player image I posted had been converted to RGB so I could play it in VLC. The two noisy images were made thus:
- VLC Player: Clip converted to Lagarith RGB.
- MPC-BE: Original YUY2 clip with ffdshow's huffyuv enabled -- otherwise, it was scrambled with whatever version of huffyuv the O.P. is using.
When I work on these captures I have to fast-recompress them with ffdfshow's huff to Lagarith YUY2. None of them will otherwise display properly on any of my PC's using the O.P.'s version of huff. I think it was mentioned that the "CCE Patch" version of huff was used. There was more than one version of that patched deal which were issued to handle a compatibility problem with huff and CCE encoders. I have a CCE patched version myself for my captures, which works OK on the capture PC but not on other machines where I have the same version installed (I have to open them in Avisynth and compress to Lagarith to avoid problems). What causes that is a mystery to me. But none of my captures have ragged edges on playback and I've been capturing that way since 2002.
There are a couple of other threads with similar caps that have even worse problems on playback.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:04.
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Have you played them using ffdshow's Huffyuv as you did this one?
The image above in post #52 has ragged edges, just not as many in that particular frame.
The screenshot that I posted is from the original file, using VLC 2.0.8. What it won't do is display BFF videos in the correct order when bobbing is used. -
Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:04.
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We've already explained why your other two examples are irrelevant.
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Why are they irrelevant? They demonstrate that the players are deinterlacing properly. I'm not talking about combing effects. I'm talking about jaggies.
Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:05.
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When working with interlaced video in containers/codecs that don't flag the interlacing it's up to you to make sure it's handled properly. That's all there is to it.
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Well, let's see:
deinterlace with QTGMC (also used yadif and bob)
cleanup
reinterlace (Separate fields, weave, etc.)
That's not correct? Plays back with jaggies and twittering lines in all players on all my PC's, just as in the originals. Plays that way as lossless AVI and encoded with MPEG or x264. That doesn't happen with other videos.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 03:05.
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