***UPDATE*** I AM DEFINITELY LOOKING FOR THE BEST QUALITY INTERNAL BD-RW. I WON'T BE USING EXTERNAL. THANKS GUYS, SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME! I NEED AS MANY AS I CAN GET. WHAT ONES HAVE WORKED BEST FOR YOU WITH THE LEAST HEADACHE? THANKS AGAIN!
Hi Everyone. I am looking to purchase a BR-Burner (Either Internal or External, although I would prefer the later) and need some advice so am looking to the community.
There are so many burners out there. The problem is, I have no idea where to start.
Basically, I just want an easy to use (I realize that is a relative term) BR burner so I can back up my collection. I will be using it primarily if not solely for ripping my movies.
I have a WD Live TV Hub with a 1 TB HD in it. It's a pretty awesome media hub but I have ALLOT of room on it and want to utilize it.
***MOST IMPORTANTLY, I really need to know what BD-R drive to get--like specific models-- would be most important and GREATLY APPRECIATED! I realize it's probably a vague question but, I really just want a BD-R that is well priced and won't give me a headache when using it to rip my movies. One of my biggest concerns is getting a ripper and then having it have a riplock and thus not being able to utilize it; The term riplock is new to me but seems pretty self explanatory .
I love this site and this Forum and have backed up so many DVDs to my media hub and couldn't have done it without the guidance and suggestions from u guys, Just wanna step it up now as I finally saved up got and a new Samsung Flat screen LED, the primary motivation to start backing up my BR collection.
A Million Thanks to EVERYONE in advance for ANY HELP!
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Last edited by noobish; 3rd Oct 2013 at 01:08. Reason: Update
RipLock is just a read-speed limiter, it won't prevent you ripping your BDs. I'm not sure what the rationale is, perhaps to avoid over-stressing the drive. At any rate, RipLock can often be removed with MCSE.
I think most will agree that an internal drive is preferable, being cheaper and more reliable. The enclosure adds to the price, and is one more thing that can fail.
Anyway, IIRC, Pioneer burners are well-thought-of over at MyCE, where they specialize (obsess?) over such things. LGs are okay, and have a reputation for working reasonably well with a variety of M.I.D. media (manufacturer I.D.). I have an LG and have found that to be true.
Good luck.Pull! Bang! Darn!
I have two BD burners, a Pioneer BD-203 and a newer Pioneer BD-208M. The BD-203 has burned over a hundred BD-R discs with no problems or failures. The newer BD-208M reads and writes a bit faster than the older BD-203. I use only Verbatim BD-R discs, and not a single coaster.
I do have a BD-ROM in an external case. It's hooked up as a USB 2.0 unit. Much slower than my internal drives for reading. Also constant noisy fan problems. If you do decide on an external case, I would advise a USB 3.0 or a eSATA case with a decent fan. Reading, and especially burning discs does generate some heat. An internal drive is a better choice.
For backing up my BDs, I rip them to a HDD with AnyDVD HD. This seems to be easier on the BD drive than running for several hours during conversions. When I have several ripped to the HDD, I convert them to MKV with RipBot overnight. The resulting MKVs are then saved to a server for easy access by my PCs or a WDTV Live unit.
If you are going to burn blu ray discs, then l would advise Pioneer first, then LG. Most of the rest of the available blu ray burners will be Lite-on or Lite-on drives that are rebadged and sold under another brand name. And while on the subject of burning blu ray, you should stick with Panasonic, FTI Falcon or Verbatim (non-LTH) for the blank discs.
If you are simply ripping to hard drives, and won't be burning blu ray discs, then any of the internal drives will do fine.
For an external drive, I'd get a Vantec external case. This one is USB 3.0. Put a Pioneer 208 in it and you'll be set. But it almost doubles the price.
I have a Pioneer BDR-208DBK in a Vantec NexStar DX External Enclosure (NST-530S3-BK). Solid drive. No riplock.
If you want BR playback and don't have or want to buy a separate player program then don't buy OEM. The difference might be as little as $10 more for the retail version but should come with some version of a Cyberlink BR suite. Don't expect any other included software to be full featured but the player works. Other than 3d there may be mention of support for some advanced multi-layer-density discs but I didn't let that sway me when I bought my LG. I figured the drive would be shot or outdated long before I ever see any new format. I just made sure mine (LG BH14NS40) supported BR-RE D/L discs (Rewritable dual layer Bluray) but I'm sure most modern drives should support those now.There's not much to do but then I can't do much anyway.
Thank you so much for the help guys, GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Is there anything else I should know like, hardware wise; that is, is assembly for internal drives (that sounds like the better option after reading the responses and elsewhere on the web) generally very difficult? I mean, I am not a PC Tech person but I have installed hardware to the extent of Ram, Hard drives, and Disk Drives. Is it pretty much the same as putting in any typical DVD-ROM drive into a PC?
Also, while this probably shouldn't matter, I have a Dell Inspirion Core-i5 running windows 7 that I purchased pretty recently (less then a year). I realize that this hardware information is pretty vague but I can find more detailed info if needed. I am just wondering if there's anything special, hardware-wise, that I will need. I know it's prob a stupid question but just wanted to check.
Again guys, Thanks for all THE HELP & SUGGESTIONS!
Same as installing a DVD drive. For internal drives the only concern is the length of the drive to make sure it's not too long to hit a component in the bay you use. It's not usually a problem but in one of my older cases the MB ram slots were too close to the 3rd drive bay so I had to stack 2 DVD drives (or a dvd and BDrom) in the 1 and 2 spots. I don't like to have my drives one on top of the other. It makes it awkward to use both at the same time. If it's a new install where you are not removing an older sata DVD drive check to make sure you have an unused sata power connector on the psu or buy a splitter and get an extra data cable in case it's not included with the drive. Nothing like being ready instead of finding out you have to run back to the parts dealer.There's not much to do but then I can't do much anyway.
OK, so thing is, my PC presently has only one (OEM) DVD-RW which I am not planning on removing. I was just going to put whichever internal BD-RW I decide on in bay 2 or 3.
My concern is the SATA issue. I am not familiar with SATA beyond knowing that its a faster apparatus for data transfer (I think, but could be wrong--if so please feel free to correct me) and don't know if my PC has a connection/slot for it (a SATA cable). I mean, my knowledge of hardware is pretty basic.
How do I know if my PC can run a SATA connection? I mean, like I said, the PC is not more (or much more) than about a year old. I can (PRESUMABLY) find the specs somewhere online if I need to. I just want to be able to install it AND have it running (ripping, copying etc.) at optimal speed. I mean, I know SATA is not a brand new technology, so I can't see a PC THAT"S FAIRLY NEW, NOT HAVING A PORT, you know?
Also, can I run a BD-RW at a reasonable speed w/out a SATA port?
GLL99, like you said, I don't wanna end up sending it back after getting it put in. And thanks very much for your help!
Also, ZOOBIE, how is that LG drive? Please give feedback I would appreciate it. ALSO, can you elaborate on the Cyberlink BR suite software
Last edited by noobish; 3rd Oct 2013 at 00:59.
A modern motherboard will come with a minimum of 4 to 6 SATA ports. If your computer is less than a year old, it will have SATA capability as that is the mainstream interface.
Here are what the SATA ports look like on the motherboard, though they may be a different color than these:
You will need a SATA data cable, which looks like this:
The drive may not come with a data cable, so get one when you order the drive.
You will also need a SATA power connector. Your power supply probably has one free already, but you can order a molex to SATA power adapter if necessary. This is what the adapter would look like:
If your power supply has one free, it will look like the black end of that adapter. You need to check to see if there is a free one that will reach the new optical drive before ordering anything.
Concerning Cyberlink software...I got a version of PowerDVD with my purchase of a blu ray drive many years ago. It was an LG GGW-H20L drive. That version of PowerDVD was intentionally crippled in certain ways. It wouldn't output anything more than stereo sound for example. And it was declared obsolete by Cyberlink within a couple of years. They advised buying the newest version since they would no longer provide updates for mine. So if you pay extra for a retail drive, don't expect the software to last as long as the drive itself.
But all of the software players do this to some degree. I use an older version of Arcsoft TMT, and have AnyDVD HD running in the background if necessary.
A Kerry56 said your MB is fairly modern so it will have spare on-board sata connectors so that won't be a problem. The reddish cable with the 2 black tips in the pic he provided replaces the flat 40/80 wire data ribbon you probably have seen used with ide drives. It's better design because of speed but being more compact it doesn't block air flow. If you look closely it is keyed (a small right angled notch) so it can only be inserted one way both on the motherboard and at the back of the drive. You have to supply this data cable so either it comes with your drive or you'll have to buy one. They come in different lengths so just make sure you get one that is long enough to reach the back of the drive and the open connector on the mb. The flat black power connector is common now on newer power supplies so open the case and check to see if there is one that is not connected to anything. If you don't see one but have a spare 4 pin white connector then you can buy the convertor as shown in the 3rd pic above from Kerry56. You can also buy multi splitters in case you plan on adding another device later but the one shown will do the job. If you look closely at the pic of the tip of the sata power connector you will notice that it is keyed also. Look at the bottom right corner. It can only fit one way on the back of the drive.
Last edited by gll99; 3rd Oct 2013 at 02:36. Reason: typoThere's not much to do but then I can't do much anyway.
These above notes cover the installation but I'd also comment on the BIOS SETUP - after you plug the BluRay drive in, and turn the computer on - you should go into BIOS Ssetup and make sure the drive is 'seen'.
(It should be WHEN I remember to plug the power-cord in - drat! Reason #3 for Not Putting The Case Together Immediately.)
You will have two optical drives at that point, and you can select "Boot Device" and "Boot Device Order" with SATA devices. I can specify any connected drive is a boot-possible device. SATA-5 can be, SATA-3 can be, or the more-usual SATA-0 or SATA-1.
Those SATA Device Numbers will be the Motherboard's Connector Number, by the way - it usually starts with SATA-0, then SATA-1.
Kerry's photo displays the 'flat' layout of SATA connectors, and those are easily identified. If your motherboard has "pedestals" of 2-stacked connectors, then figuring which number is On Top and which refers to the Bottom device is sometimes a Sherlockian task. But it's just trial and error - nothing will be 'ruined'.
Usually BIOS Setups have a 'page' or tab-heading for BOOT DEVICES and I can locate these choices.
One more THANKS note for the brand-choices - Pioneer first, LG second, everything else.
Occasionally, I've seen opinions that favored older models than newer ones, and I can't tell if that's because Older Ones are simply more numerous OR if the arguments that they are less-crippled by more cost-costing as this segment of the hardware industry dwindles.
I've seen comments that seem to favor an LG "12" series more than a "14" and more than the latest "16" models, and this seems to work for ASUS, LITE-ONs, too. Pioneers may be the exception where their latest "208" models seem to be as favorably received as the "207s" they replace.
Also, I find that Amazon will give more selection possibilities than NewEgg, simply because more vendors haven't sold out their inventories, like NewEgg tries to do.
Last edited by fritzi93; 3rd Oct 2013 at 08:17.Pull! Bang! Darn!
If someone wants to be able to use menus when playing Blu-ray discs with their PC, they need one of the commercial software players. The freeware players have no menu support. However, recent versions of the commercial players do implement Cinavia, so they won't play rips from some Blu-Ray discs.
I only plan to play original Blu-Ray discs and want menu support so I went with a commercial software player. I bought a Pioneer 208M via the BDR-2208 retail package, which includes PowerDVD 10 BD3D and PowerDirector 9. The hardware has been very good. Both Cyberlink programs worked for Windows 7 but not Windows 8 (I have a dual boot system). I tried Arcsoft TotalMediaTheatre and liked it a little better, but upgraded to PowerDVD 12 for Windows 8 compatibility because there was a special offer at the time.
Last edited by usually_quiet; 3rd Oct 2013 at 13:54. Reason: grammar
Thanks Again Guys, especially for the Pics/Diagrams!
This has been a super-informative thread for me.
So, I have decided to go with a (single) internal BD-R, as I will mostly just be ripping and not copying. My Final question is, and I know I will get mixed reviews/opinions, what do you guys think is the best BD-R, presently on the market, for the money, taking into consideration its:
2) Ease of use
I am thinking of going with the Pioneer BDR-208DBK 15x -OR- thePioneer BDR-2208 15x >>> please let me know what you think, the more suggestions, the better! Bringing it back around to what my OP was about, I am ready to make the buy; I am, however still apprehensive, but FAR LESS SO after all the awesome feedback/guidance.
*One last thing as well: someone suggested sticking to VERBATIM BD Blank Media; while I don't plan on doing much copying per say, I just wanted to clarify that Verbatim brand BD media is the most reliable, and/or if other brands are safe to use>?
ONCE AGAIN, THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES AND VALUABLE FEEDBACK, EVERYONE HAS BEEN SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL IN GIVING THERE TIME TO HELP OUT. GOD BLESS!
Last edited by noobish; 4th Oct 2013 at 02:12.
Those two Pioneer models you've mentioned use the same hardware. The only difference is the 208DBK is the OEM model, and the 2208 is the retail version. The retail version will come with software, usually the Cyberlink blu ray suite.
I mentioned blu ray media in my first post, but it may have slipped by you. Verbatim blu ray media has been fairly good, and many people use it. But it comes in two varieties, the regular version that uses an inorganic writing layer like most other blu ray, and a second type that uses organic dyes similar to dvds. This second version is designated LTH, and I don't recommend them.
Here is a link to the regular Verbatim: http://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-97457-Blu-ray-Recordable-25-Disc/dp/B00471HK0Q/ref=sr_1...s=verbatim+bdr
Panasonic and FTI Falcon discs are also excellent quality, probably better than Verbatim, but harder to find.
Here are FTI Falcon sold under the SmartBlu brand: http://www.mediamegamall.com/smartblu-bluray-disc-25gb-silver-lacquer-print-25pk-cakeb...1497ffb5db39fe These guys are not really reasonable on shipping/handling costs for small amounts however.
And FTI is available at other sites, you just have to do a Google search for them. For example: http://www.polylinecorp.com/productlist.asp?OPT=070061500100001000
Panasonic is much harder to locate in the US. These are a Japanese import sold through Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Blu-ray-Recordable-Spindle-Printable/dp/B005RY6JCC/ref...pd_sim_sbs_e_5
Hey Guys. I just wanted to thank you for all the help and suggestions!
I decided on the PioneerBDR-2208 and received and installed it today. There are a few quirks but PLEASE LOOK AT MY NEWEST THREAD.
Ordering and installing the drive was the easy part, now I have to learn what I need, software wise, to make good rips to MKV's (and other file types). Right now I am lost as far as that goes and would appreciate any help.
The quirks are also a bit weird, like the sound; that is, when I play a BR Movie in CyberLink, there is no sound, I dunno what that is about. but anyhow, anyone who can help me with this next step (or, rather, steps) would be Great!
Thanks to all who responded and helped me out in this thread!
noobish: I accidently removed your other thread.
But here it is so you can create a new thread:
Hey everyone… Just wanted to give shouts to all who helpedme to select a (hopefully) good BD Drive for ripping…
Now here comes another thread: I think selecting a drive wasthe easy part.
***I apologize in advance if I am posting this in the wrong section.***
So, I am now essentially asking for help with RIPPING (Backing Up) myBD-Library to my HD as I have a WD LIVE Media Hub with a 1 TB Hard Drive and want to store them on there.
I guess I know what I need, but don’t know exactly whatsoftware to use to readily accomplish this task(s).
So—and I don’t mean to be vague—I was hoping some of thoseseasoned (for lack of a better term), can help me with what software I willneed—preferably Free ( :
I have some idea of where to begin (like needing something for decryptionto get past the security) but I am only used to backing up DVD’s into videofiles (Usually using FAB’s FREE DVD Decrypter to get the Video.tso andAudio.tso files (I don’t think those are the right extension names (.tso) as it’sbeen a few months)...then turning them into MKV’s Using Hand break. BUT THAT'SALL WITH STANDARD DVD’s. I've no idea how to rip BR’s)
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED; YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!
BTW The BD Writer I got is the Pioneer BDR-2208
Cinavia copy protection is not used on every Blu-Ray movie, but if someone plays a Cinavia-protected Blu-Ray movie that is not on the original disc using a recent version of a commercial software player (i.e. Cyberlink PowerDVD, Arcsoft Total Media Theatre, or Corel WinDVD), the audio will be silenced part way through the movie. However, I would expect there to be an error message of some kind indicating Cinavia is being enforced.
If you are not seeing any error messages, what are you using for audio (TV speakers, your PC speakers, home theater system, etc.) and how is the PC connected to the device responsible for audio?
Last edited by usually_quiet; 11th Oct 2013 at 15:17.