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ahhh man WHAT A GOOD IDEA. sadly no joy.
there was 2 changes however. there are 2 red LED's on the adapters. when I short the slave adapter (I tried both positions on the cable adding the shorted unit in the slave slot and in master slot of the ribbon cable)
in both positions the SHORTED adapter one of the red led's no longer illuminated AND the "other" master drive does now show up in windows.
but the slave drive still persist in not showing up (but no longer prevents either from showing up)
I tried both my 80 wire cables the one marked primary slave and the unmarked on. no joy.
BTW run a wire through it is precisely what I did -
Give up. Given the scarcity of PATA DVD burners and their price it will be cheaper and easier to buy SATA drives, controllers, and cables to go with them.
Last edited by jagabo; 4th Apr 2013 at 23:50.
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convert to sata through and through would be quite expensive. $45 to $50 per computer IE basically what it costs to BUY one. (used)
worst case I can run them single drive not as convenient but "doable"
NOW here is something interesting. too tired to mess with it tonight will tackle it tomorrow.
these are the ones I got from a US seller from amazon.com (so I would not have to wait for the chinese one turns out it did not matter)
but I noticed they are DIFFERENT note the second image. what do I do to set CS ??
if I could properly program this I could do each machine for $9. this one cost $6 the chinese ones are a little less than $3
if the chinese ones are master and I "set" the amazon one to "slave" they should play nice together -
Last edited by jagabo; 4th Apr 2013 at 23:59.
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have you priced sata burners? about $15 have you priced pata sata converters? $2.50
take a guess which way I want to go hehehe
its not a CHOICE between pata and sata drives. its a choice between buying $50 in stuff to use sata drives in pata machines OR spending $50 to buy computers that are already sata.
I don't want to do EITHER. -
Why would you change drives before they stop working? When one drive stops working you replace both with SATA drives and set aside the remaining good drive for the next machine which gets a failed drive. What "machines" are you buying for $50? Apparently not full computers.
Last edited by jagabo; 5th Apr 2013 at 07:59.
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?? I don't understand jagabo. what do you mean change the drives before they stop working.
ALL my drives are over 8 months old. drives usually begin failing around 9-11 months so I need to start thinking about how I am going to replace them now that I can not buy cheap PATA's off newegg anymore.
yes I buy full computers (1.0 to 2.4 ghz P4's typically) for $30 to $60 on craigslist. I have never paid more than $60 for a complete machine (no K-V-M I used a 8 port KVM to link everything)
here are some examples
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3718073265.html
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3718488356.html
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/syd/3658247048.html
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3655909442.html (I think I will go buy this one its a single din case but I can work around that 2.53ghz is nice and another spare 17" display panel is included!)
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3693583584.html this one too !! NICE AND FAST! yes I will go buy this one on the way home tonight 250gb and has 2 sata ports too so I can put it into service immediately. no gas either its DIRECTLY in my path home.
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3708078091.html ANOTHER really nice one I might have to go snap up.
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3702436980.html 1.7ghz nice.
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/sys/3701354849.html
I think that is enough to get my point across many of those are over 2gz and under $50 some $40.
Computers are CHEAP if you don't need multi core. and I sure don't need multi core for duplication stations.
Wipe em install my customized copy of XP and put them into service "as is" with one exception. MOST do not come with DVD Burners. dvd readers yes but I need TWO burners in each machine and consider it LUCKY if I get ONE with a machine.
I have a huge stack of RAM to upgrade any machines that need it (though all of these come with a gig which is not amazing but good enough usually)
I got nearly 40 sticks of SD DDR and DDR2 ram from the scrap yard for $5 so far of the ten sticks I tried only one does not work and that might be a compatibility issues (2 gig DDR2 acer stick)Last edited by nerys; 5th Apr 2013 at 11:37.
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Actually the cost of cards is $20 each, and the mplex to sata power cables may be found around a $1 each like the 1 at http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=1253&seq=1&format=2 for $0.98 each for 2-9 quantity plus shipping around $2 depending on zip code.
Can you find used sata computers for close to $20 each? Just curious, and I hope you get those adapters to work. -
the cheapest sata card I found so far that was assured to work with atapi devices was $25 from newegg you guys found it for me actually. (some really only work well with hard disks apparently)
I actually bought one to play around with and see how well they work.
if I can make <$3 adapters work that is cheaper than $20 ehh? is that shipped ? Link? works with atapi drives?
lets assume $20 is doable. that is $180 (9 of them) plus $44 for 18 each of the sata power and sata cables from monoprice with the $9 shipping.
$224. that is a lot of money. while the adapters are $2.31 a pop shipped or less than $42 total.
see why I want to use them now?
I mean I already have 8 of them I might as well play with em and try to get them to work. time is free after all.
I WOULD prefer to go directly to SATA
but I don't have that much money. period. end of discussion.
eventually yes. little by little maybe each month buy a sata card till I replace them all.
problem is I wanted a solution that would work "now" for cheap the adapters "DO" this for now even if I have to run them single drive. for now I have enough pata drives. but I expect failures in the next couple of months and I have depleted my stock of new pata drives (got them for $12 and change 1.5 years ago from newegg so I ordered a dozen of them
maybe its me and I just woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning but everyone seems to combative today hehe
either way let me know where you saw the $20 shipped sata atapi compatible cards for $20 so I can get one and see how it works out. -
does anyone know how to make sense of the instructions on that second sata card I have.
I do not understand what 1 and NC mean for each position desired.
what do I "jump" for each one ?
I just can't figure out what it means. does NC mean No connection?
then it has a 1 and NC does that mean jump JP0 but No Connetion JP1
and for CS (which is what I really want) does that mean I have to jump "BOTH" connection. ??Last edited by nerys; 5th Apr 2013 at 17:02.
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1 means connected, NC means not connected. Yes, connect both for cable select.
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damn got to wait till I get home to use the sodering iron since the one pin is "filled" the other one all 4 are filled. so gonna have to solder in a connector can't just jimmy it with some wire means I have to wait till next wednesday to test it
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It is typical to use a two pin header connector for this situation. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DHS-40/2-X-40-PINS-SNAPPABLE-HEADERS/1.html
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Last edited by jagabo; 5th Apr 2013 at 20:44.
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yep but I ain't got any of those so wire and solder it is plus I have to desolder the holes (some of them are filled)
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Sometimes when I'm lazy I'll just drag a big glop of solder between the two holes.
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hahaha I was thinking EXACTLY that but then thought. yeah Mr Murphy REALLY hates me and my soldering skills so no hehehe
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You most likely don't have to remove the solder just heat it and push the lead through then add additional solder
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Are you using a SATA+converter drive and a PATA drive on the same cable or 2 SATA+converter drives on 1 IDE cable? The master and slave talk to each other on pin 34, it's possible that the converter doesn't properly handle the signal. It might be better to use identical converters on the same cable. What's under the QC label that stuck to the chipset?
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Sorry if I seem combative because I don't mean to be. I'm simply offering what I consider a good alternative if your current adapters can't be made to work.
The adapter card at the link in my reply #16 is $20, and it's one that's proven to work with optical drives according to http://club.myce.com/f7/silicon-image-based-sata-ide-controllers-flashable-not-252721/ which is referenced in my reply #19. BTW you also need sata data cable for each drive that may be found for less than $1 each like the 1 at http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=AA82466&pagetitle=Kingwin%20Cable%2...a#.UWAvtkzJJAE, i.e. unless the sata drives came with data cables. Again, good luck getting those adapters working. -
I hope we can read success on this. Since a SATA cable is a single-thread-user, I don't think Master, Slave or Cable-Select choices would make much difference. However, I bet this card needs to match the Drive's Setting for this. If the drive is set to Master, then set the Card to master.
I don't think soldering would be necessary - just use the Jumper on the drive itself to match this adapter card's setting - whatever it is (and I can't determine if the soldered hole in JP0 means one or the other. But I think "matching the Drive to this card" is all that's necessary. Since the drive is easily jumpered, I'd try those settings, over and over, and see if there is a "behavior change".
(My company bought up a stock of IDE burners last Fall from ESAITECH, by the way, when they were $25-30, and now they're doubled or more. Glad we got those and we're hoping we don't need to replace drives soon on those customer units.) -
*** Now that you have read me, do some other things. ***
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