Hi
I have a MSI AMD K9AGM2-F / L motherboard
Was working fine until yesterday - now it will not post - no beeps - hard disk will spin briefly, DVD light will come on briefly
I did make a hardware change - normally I have SATA disks with one PATA drive I use for backups - I disconnected the IDE CD/DVD and tried to hook up two PATA drives - was going to back-up the backup - decided to do it later - and put things back the way they were - this is when the problem started . . .
So, I cleared the CMOS with the jumper, removed the battery for awhile, then hooked up just video card, mouse, keyboard, hard disk, monitor - all I got was a Monitor message -> no devices connected
The only time it did post was after clearing the CMOS - I removed the battery - it booted, I got some "beeps" - then message about CMOS battery being low - I couldn't get into the BIOS setup - it wanted a password although I never set one - and I tried to select "Use default settings" - and it just died - so I put the CMOS battery back in - nothing - no boot - no post
It seems weird that it booted/posted without the battery - and when I put the battery back - nothing
The battery is good - I tested it in another computer - although I am wondering if the battery-holder is the problem - the clasp on the holder doesn't seem to be making contact with the battery - anyway I am thinking it is one of three problems:
Power supply, motherboard, or a poor battery connection.
Is there an easy way to check the power supply with a multimeter? Also, how long should it take (i.e. how much would I pay) for a technician to determine the problem?
TIA
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You said you put things back as they were but I just wonder if you altered any dip-switches/jumpers on the PATA drive.
Could be a simple case of both the PATA and the CD/DVD trying to be master devices - again assuming they are both on the same cable. -
So I guess this isn't the first time you've cleared the CMOS and removed the battery, Right ? anyway to test out your MOBO and power supply just connect video and keyboard and no other devices and see if you can get into setup also have you got your chassis intrusion connector jumpered cause sometimes it won't boot if it not.
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take a really close look at the capacitors near the cpu. (small blue tin can like things) that motherboard is about the age of swelling, leaking caps being a major problem. the tops should be flat and there shouldn't be any discoloration or dried crap down the sides.
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"a lot of people are better dead" - prisoner KSC2-303 -
Thanks for the replies DB83 and Wolfen
Wolfen - I don't think it was a chassis intrusion connector problem
Seems to be working now - I reset the CMOS - this time I hooked up my DVD - booted my Seatools DOS utility - then booted into Windows7
However, upon reboot I got a RAM R/W error - Windows7 says I have two GB installed [correct] but only 1 GB is working - so I am running memory test right now . . .
Problem was probably with the DVD cable and pin setting - DVD is now set to Master
@aedipuss - sounds like a good idea - I'll take a look at the capacitorsLast edited by wiseant; 27th Feb 2013 at 16:28. Reason: update
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If you have RAM errors, unplug the PC, take out the RAM and clean the contacts with a soft white pencil eraser. Do the same for the video card contacts. Probably a good idea to dust off the insides while you're at it. Careful not to budge the heatsink and if you use compressed air, prevent the fans from spinning.
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@nic2k4 and @p_l
The RAM seems ok now - Tested it twice with Windows7 memory test - don't know why it initially showed 2 GB installed and only 1 GB working
Yeah - I have used a soft eraser before
It definitely was the jumper settings re DVD alone or DVD with PATA drive
I found these links helpful re 40 wire and 80 wire cable differences:
http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/howto_connect_ide_hd.html
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/if/ide/confCable80-c.html -
Not really, the best you can do with a meter is to check whether the voltages are within tolerance under load. The one important parameter on that chart is the ripple, you'll need an oscilloscope to check it.
The only thing I can see causing the PC not to boot the way you described is the ATX power connector loosing contact on some pins. Likely to happen when you start pushing the wire bundle around to modify things inside the case. Check that the power connector is pushed all the way down and the latch is engaged.
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