Can anyone please suggest a working script that will convert a video to 3D. My source videos are from standard definition VHS-to-DVD conversions where the videos used a bitrate of at least 4 Mbps which I would then remove the noise and picture compression artefacts from with Avisynth then transfer to Bluray (mux).
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2D to 3D? You're kidding, right?
Doesn't work that way. If it did, ALL blockbuster 2D movies would already have been converted to 3D ($$$!!!).
Scott -
I've seen pages like this which tell you how to convert to 3D but I wasn't sure of what script to use. I don't actually have a 3D TV but I wanted to make sure I had the correct script for when I eventually get one. I will be converting my videos just now and I will be getting a 3D TV in future.
http://3dvision-blog.com/tag/avisynth-script/ -
Some text of the Avisynth script is here:
http://3dvision-blog.com/1220-2d-to-3d-realtime-video-conversion-script-for-avisynth-v0-3/
An acquaintance from our local movie collector's club displayed some samples for us. Looked like a waste of time, but some people will go for anything that moves on a TV screen (and even some stuff that doesn't move at all). The video source you work with has to be in pristine condition, preferably animation. Your move.Last edited by sanlyn; 22nd Mar 2014 at 05:05.
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If you mean a DVD bitrate of 4000 kbps, that's far too low for quality DVD.
I didn't say 2D->3D isn't possible. I meant to say the results I saw recently were nothing to write home about.Last edited by sanlyn; 22nd Mar 2014 at 05:05.
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I've written this many times here in the past: There are currently only 2 kinds of conversions to 3D.
1. Simple, cheap, Real-time (or near-realtime), formula-based
2. Complex, EXPENSIVE, S-L-O-W!!!, Painstaking, manual (or ai-assisted manual) adjustment
Neither will EVER be perfect.
The 2nd is what is currently being done with 2D Hollywood features. Some jobs are better than others. The best (and MOST EXPENSIVE, SLOWEST) jobs have the look of 3D for certain objects, but it's still "Stratified" and slightly unnatural compared to a real, shot-in-3D image. Plus, with the current software, it ignores/avoids minor luma/chroma optical/retinal rivalry which can add a "sparkling" or "scintillating" effect to real life stereo3d images (especially particulates). The worse jobs are noticeably aggravating to audiences, showing strong rivalry/unease and goofy cardboard cutout effects, making it WORSE than the 2D version.
The 1st is what is being sold mass-market (in software or hardware) to consumers as another snake oil, magic wand fixer-upper. There a some things which can be done to manipulate the signal (e.g. pulfrich illusion/frame-advance-comparison, horizon line z-depth fading, etc) which give a FAKE stereo3d illusion.
Make no mistake about it, this doesn't even come close to stereo3D, unless you are a very gullible and non-discerning person. If this is good enough for anyone, I'd suggest to save your money and NOT buy a 3D tv.
This falls under the same category as mono->stereo/surround, and realtime colorizing.
The bottom line is: Doing a conversion is nearly as much work as doing it natively. No pain, no gain. You get what you paid for. FAST-CHEAP-GOOD: pick 2!
Scott -
You could have a go with DVDFab, which can do a 2D to 3D SBS (side by side) or TB (top bottom). Wouldn't cost you anything to try it, as that option should work during the trial period.
That said, for the movie I tried, I didn't think Fab did a very creditable job of it. And on my 6 core computer it took a long time to complete, all day, IIRC. My LG 3D TV does a much better on the fly conversion. Anyway, everything Scott said applies; the effect is unnatural and the best you can hope for is the illusion of a little extra depth.
Not worth the trouble, IMO, but it's your time. Good luck.Pull! Bang! Darn!
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